silicon

janos · Dec 11, 2017

Hi to all could i use regular silicon to sump divider? Thank you

LuizW13 · Dec 11, 2017

I've never done that before, but i'm sure you can as long as you allow enough time for curing before filling it.

S-t-r-e-t-c-h · Dec 11, 2017

Define "regular silicone." A lot of the product at HD/Lowes have mold inhibitors that you definitely don't want in an aquarium...

My preference is to buy an aquarium specific brand like aqueon, even if it costs a few extra dollars. Just be aware of what you are purchasing.

janos · Dec 11, 2017

S-t-r-e-t-c-h said:
Define "regular silicone." A lot of the product at HD/Lowes have mold inhibitors that you definitely don't want in an aquarium...

My preference is to buy an aquarium specific brand like aqueon, even if it costs a few extra dollars. Just be aware of what you are purchasing.

Thank you regular meant not GE I or GE II
Baught not because the price but the LFS is 40 min drive and the home depo 5 min.

Fin · Dec 11, 2017

GE I. Definitely not GE II.

ca1ore · Dec 11, 2017

Lots of posts on silicones, with a ton of myths. I too use mostly aquarium silicone, even if it is repacked for a hobby premium; though I have also used both GE1 and GE2. I've never seen any reliable data that shows there is actually any mold inhibitors in either. GE1 is an acetoxy cure (vinegar smell) silicone and formulated for glass. GE2 is a neutral cure silicone and formulated to work better on plastics (neutral cure silicones are more naturally mold resistant, though also worse if used without a proper cure time). Since all of my silicone jobs are on glass, I prefer GE1. The problem IME, is not whether one is more or less safe than the other, rather that you provide adequate curing times. The package says 24 hours, but for a 1/8" bead; for the type of beads most would need on a sump or tank a week is more likely. Some folks do a test bead on a piece of cardboard and cut into it after a few days to gauge the curing process.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Dec 11, 2017

ca1ore said:
Lots of posts on silicones, with a ton of myths. I too use mostly aquarium silicone, even if it is repacked for a hobby premium; though I have also used both GE1 and GE2. I've never seen any reliable data that shows there is actually any mold inhibitors in either. GE1 is an acetoxy cure (vinegar smell) silicone and formulated for glass. GE2 is a neutral cure silicone and formulated to work better on plastics (neutral cure silicones are more naturally mold resistant, though also worse if used without a proper cure time). Since all of my silicone jobs are on glass, I prefer GE1. The problem IME, is not whether one is more or less safe than the other, rather that you provide adequate curing times. The package says 24 hours, but for a 1/8" bead; for the type of beads most would need on a sump or tank a week is more likely. Some folks do a test bead on a piece of cardboard and cut into it after a few days to gauge the curing process.

I'm not certain how these products actually relate, but...

If you go to home Depot for GE Silicone II, at this link:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silicone-II-10-1-oz-Clear-Kitchen-and-Bath-Caulk-GE5040-12C/100663319

It says it is GE#5040

Then there are two different SDS sheets listed on that page. One lists no unusual chemicals, and the second one lists

dibutyltindiacetate 0.1 to 1%

https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/97/97ded25b-296e-414f-be6c-bbd321d771da.pdf

This product SDS lists the exact product number for GE Silicone 2 at Home Depot (5040 12C) and it also shows the tin compound:

https://cwip.com/Customer/cewhin/customerpages/specpages/38751.pdf

Dibutyltindiacetate is a polymerization catalyst, but tin is also well known to prevent biofouling of surfaces.

tdileo · Dec 11, 2017

I have used GE 1 to reseal tanks as well as divide dumps with no ill effects. I just suggest you let it cure for 2-3 days or until you can barely smell the acetic acid (vinegar) anymore, then rinse the whole sump with freshwater once or twice before you incorporate it into the system.

janos · Dec 11, 2017

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
I'm not certain how these products actually relate, but...

If you go to home Depot for GE Silicone II, at this link:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silicone-II-10-1-oz-Clear-Kitchen-and-Bath-Caulk-GE5040-12C/100663319

It says it is GE#5040

Then there are two different SDS sheets listed on that page. One lists no unusual chemicals, and the second one lists

dibutyltindiacetate 0.1 to 1%

https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/97/97ded25b-296e-414f-be6c-bbd321d771da.pdf

This product SDS lists the exact product number for GE Silicone 2 at Home Depot (5040 12C) and it also shows the tin compound:

https://cwip.com/Customer/cewhin/customerpages/specpages/38751.pdf

Dibutyltindiacetate is a polymerization catalyst, but tin is also well known to prevent biofouling of surfaces.

Thank you Randy for your help i read the smoll print on the tube (after i ask the qestion here)and it is GE II on the tube it is clear DO NOT USE FOR FISHTANK.