Small clam

[Saurav Verma]

Try turning your lights down some.. try 70-80% blue and 20% white, you may be bleaching it from to much white light.

So my whites are 65 and blue is 90. Turn just the blue down ?

 

[DSC reef]

So my whites are 65 and blue is 90. Turn just the blue down ?

Honestly I wouldn't turn the lights down, clams can bleach from to little light as well. Unfortunately the clam doesn't look good and I can make guesses on what's wrong. Small clams usually don't fare well and it could've been dying before you bought it. Just wait it out before making changes to the tank.

 

[reefwiser]

This is a pretty small clam .They can be really challenging for most hobbyist to keep alive. Things that help make sure it has a stable place to attach to a rock. Just sitting a clam on a rock doesn't mean it will attach to that rock. They need a stable place to attach.
Many clams come with clam mounting bases. They can be purchased at: http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/me...7f42dca9de82fb58b1/i/m/image_clam-holders.jpg
I always recommend getting a clam that is 6 to 8 inches in size as this size they generally adapt to aquarium life.

 

[Retro Reefer]

So my whites are 65 and blue is 90. Turn just the blue down ?

your blues may be ok at 90% but I would suggest turning them down some but IMO at 65% your whites are probably way to much.. I would turn them WAY down, maybe 20 or 30% max.. I run mine less than 20%

 

[greg 45]

I got it from reef a palooza and the name on the receipt was pet warehouse.

give them a shout and ask weather it was a ora clam / we were selling ora at our booth that's why I asked. The clams in my system at home are getting hit with 400 watt 10 k metal halides . Est on par over 500 . Hope this helps .

 

[TheSchwenkster]

So is my light to week? I have the 27 inch razor the one that cost $510. I believe it's either 160 or 180 watts which is suppose to be better then 400watt MH. I'm running about 90% on the blues and about 65 percent on the whites. I want as open till today when I moved it from the sand bed to a rock. Then it moved on it's own a little bit and stayed I was happy with the position. Oh and i forgot to mention i did burp it also. Well I went through the motions there was no air trapped.

Not suggesting the lights are too weak. The par graph certainly suggests they are quite powerful. I was suggesting that it appears the power dissipates as you move from the center rapidly. If the clam is positioned between pucks or near the inner rings on the par graph, then you are probably in the right position. It would be a matter of acclimation to you lights and the intensity. An example would be I have been acclimating a Maxima to a Kessil A360we for the better part of two months. It started at 60-ish and has steadily increased 5 or so percent each week. All lights are not the same and I do not have a similar Set of Lights so I am unable to suggest you exact settings.

Unfortunately I agree that it is hard to diagnose and likely many speculative answers in this thread. Since the mantle is intact the clam is likely okay. I would avoid making tons of changes and keep things stable. If it looks like your positioning is not providing the par, then perhaps adjusting the lights would be enough and you could have avoid any further movement.

 

[hotashes]

This is a pretty small clam .They can be really challenging for most hobbyist to keep alive. Things that help make sure it has a stable place to attach to a rock. Just sitting a clam on a rock doesn't mean it will attach to that rock. They need a stable place to attach.
Many clams come with clam mounting bases. They can be purchased at: http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/me...7f42dca9de82fb58b1/i/m/image_clam-holders.jpg
I always recommend getting a clam that is 6 to 8 inches in size as this size they generally adapt to aquarium life.

Not doubting clams like being attached to rock, however as I've noticed every time I place my 1" maxima on its foot upon the tank bottom it likes to adjust itself. Surely if the clams are fixed to the rock, they wouldn't be able to adjust themselves for their own comfort/flow.

A.

 

[Saurav Verma]

give them a shout and ask weather it was a ora clam / we were selling ora at our booth that's why I asked. The clams in my system at home are getting hit with 400 watt 10 k metal halides . Est on par over 500 . Hope this helps .

When I Google pet warehouse so many results come up I'm not sure who to call.

 

[Saurav Verma]

Not suggesting the lights are too weak. The par graph certainly suggests they are quite powerful. I was suggesting that it appears the power dissipates as you move from the center rapidly. If the clam is positioned between pucks or near the inner rings on the par graph, then you are probably in the right position. It would be a matter of acclimation to you lights and the intensity. An example would be I have been acclimating a Maxima to a Kessil A360we for the better part of two months. It started at 60-ish and has steadily increased 5 or so percent each week. All lights are not the same and I do not have a similar Set of Lights so I am unable to suggest you exact settings.

Unfortunately I agree that it is hard to diagnose and likely many speculative answers in this thread. Since the mantle is intact the clam is likely okay. I would avoid making tons of changes and keep things stable. If it looks like your positioning is not providing the par, then perhaps adjusting the lights would be enough and you could have avoid any further movement.

It's right in the center with the best par. I'm so confused if I should turn it down or not

 

[Saurav Verma]

your blues may be ok at 90% but I would suggest turning them down some but IMO at 65% your whites are probably way to much.. I would turn them WAY down, maybe 20 or 30% max.. I run mine less than 20%

I have it high because my light is weaker then other LEDs out there do u still think I should lower it ?

 

[DSC reef]

@jda any insight on these lights and par? I honestly don't think that clam is receiving to much light.

 

[TheSchwenkster]

So if truely centered, the claimed par at 100% could be very high. Again, I am just going off what it shows on Dr. Fosters site. If that isn't the same light, it is all speculative. I can't say turning it down is a good idea. My Maxima is getting blasted by my light and loves it. I think the consensus is that if properly acclaimed, you aren't going to see issues with too much light. The key is acclimating and not just going all the way to 110% intensity on day one.

One reason I went with the Kessil is the simplicity in two knob adjusting. Pick the color you want and set the intensity needed. Wish I could guide you more on the proper setting for your light but just not enough info.

 

[jda]

Everybody probably knows that I am not a fan of LEDs for acropora and clams. Keeping the whites low is generally a good idea since they have some harmful peaks/output in them that can burn and kill coral where more than twice the output from other light sources will not - this is bad quality thing, not a quantity thing. However, if the clam is not showing any signs of burning, then it is not too much light.

Clams are a bit different than coral. They can digest excess zoox since they have a digestive tract and there is virtually no way to over-light them... none that anybody has found even with 1500-2000 PAR light sources showing no signs of shutting down photosynthesis - keep in mind that the PAR a few inches under the water in the Pacific is sometimes over 2000. You need to acclimate them a bit, but they can handle more light than you can give them. However, I have no idea if too much bad LED can burn clams too. My gut guess would be probably, but I do not know for sure.

Don't believe anybody that tells you that 160w Razor is as much light as a 400w Halide - there is too much to go into here, but it is either a total lie or they people just do not know. In the end, you would need 3 of those Razors to truly replace a single 400w halide, most likely. Once you consider the entire spectrum, and not just the visible range captured by a PAR meter, there is about 2-3% waste in a MH to excessive IR above 850nm, but then you need to match the rest watt for watt to do the same thing. There are no other real efficiences, just perceived by using misleading devices like LUX and PAR meters... and a lot of BS from a manufacturer.

Bottom Line: there is no way to give a clam too much good light. The only argument that can be made is too much bad light, but I do not know enough about the Razor to know how bad it is and which whites that they use.

 

[reefwiser]

Not doubting clams like being attached to rock, however as I've noticed every time I place my 1" maxima on its foot upon the tank bottom it likes to adjust itself. Surely if the clams are fixed to the rock, they wouldn't be able to adjust themselves for their own comfort/flow.

A.

Clams in nature borrow into rock work and do not sit out exposed as they do in our aquariums. I have my large clam on a mount and it moves due to it expelling water during the coarse of the day. As it is not firmly attached to rock as it is in nature. An I only keep clams in tanks with MH not LED's