Smooth Skin/Deepwater SPS 180G

[iFunnny]

Its been awhile since my other builds and with renovation to the house and general malaise but over the past few months I revamped my FOWLR with two dragon morays to a full SPS Peninsula build. The tank had already been running for a year, and it was quite the undertaking to get all the equipment upgrades up and running and semi-resetting the tank.

I was never really a coral person, but there was something about the smooth skin sps that I've always liked and decided to take the plunge to make a full blown reef with them. I do have some other acros but I will be swapping them out. The SPS have been in the tank from anywhere between 4months to a week old right now. Far from success, but the losses have been very minimal so far, and hopefully it stays that way. I do have a nice fish wish list and we'll talk about them maybe at a later point.

Below are some tank and equipment specs and more photos to kick the thread off!

Tank Specs

Tank - Waterbox 7225 XL Peninsula (old model, smaller sump) 6ft x 2 x 2 Total water volume roughly 180g

Lights
- XR 30 G6 Pros x 2 (
- XR 15 G5 Blues x2
- Hydra AI Blade Glow

*** Hydra AI Blade Grow and 2 more XR30 G6 Pros just purchased and setting up this weekend!

Flow
- Return Pump Vectra M2
- Maxspect XF350 Gyres x 2
- Ecotech Vortech MP60 x 2

Skimmer
- Deltec TC3070 *** To be replaced next month with Bubble King

Dosing
- Couple of Ecotech Versas
- Redsea Doser
- 2 Neptune DOS
- OCTO Kalk stirrer 150

Misc.
- 2 Deltec 80w Deltec sterilizers fed with Mantis pump 10,000
- Sanders 200mg Ozone
- Apex ecosystem (Trident ACM/ Trident NP)
- Compressor coil (chiller)
- DD Ocean H20 ATO

I also have a small Eshopps deskmate connected downstream of the tank. I run AWC at 3.33% a day, 1 Versa draws NSW into the tank and 1 Versa draws water out of the pico. The pico is refilled by an ATO that is placed in the SUMP of the waterbox to top up the water the versa in the pico draws out. I use the pico for SPS that have undesirables when I dip them. I place them there to dip them a couple more times before moving them to the display.

That's enough for now! Enjoy the eye candy!

 

[PR_nano]

Looks great! I really like the contrast you achieved with the placement of the different color smooth skin sps in the pictures below.

 

[iFunnny]

More eye candy

 

[iFunnny]

Having an algae crisis in the pico now but nothing Brightwell Razor wont fix. Tiny stripey in there for aiptasia, this will get swapped out often when they outgrow every few months.

Any weakened SPS on arrival or alarm pieces that shed too much flatworms on dip get placed here.

The ice fire in there has been dipped 4-5 times now every few days and has been fragged as well to trade as well as transplant into the DT.

I have a separate ice fire colony that has colored up from teal/brown to white with the lavender tips and im hoping the frag can do the same. Both were sold to me as aussie ice fires. ill probably pick up an indo one at some point and have them side by side to see how different they end up looking.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Following along!

 

[iFunnny]

EDIT: Realized the photos didnt get uploaded.

Bought one of these top down viewing acrylic viewing portals so here are more pics. If anyone can teach me how to take better pictures id love the tips. everything is overly orange/magenta in the background. Using a dd orange clip on lens.

My favorite SPS are currently the Suharsonoi, banana lokani and the ice fire. I have a blue/purple lokani that just got added but it's gonna need some TLC for a few weeks/months.

Blue Lokani in question - I bought 2 mini colonies, 1 is doing well, 1 did not do so well and started to peel in the first 24 hours, but i managed to frag a bucnh of bits off and get that on a frag plug, so far it has stabilized. There is a 3rd piece that the shop was not convincted was a lokani because it does in fact look dissimilar. But we shall see.

This is the Banana Lokani now (more green) versus 2 weeks ago.

 

[iFunnny]

Looks great! I really like the contrast you achieved with the placement of the different color smooth skin sps in the pictures below.

Thank you! Although I can’t say I planned it that way. Happy accident

 

[iFunnny]

Added a bunch of fish over the past few weeks and my carbon dosing line had been failing so nutrients have been creeping up . Trying to bend it back to my will.

I will go over my full fish list in another post, but right now these are the newest additions.

A pair of Yellow Longnose butterfly fish (Forcipiger flavissimus). Got them from a reefer who was leaving the hobby, he has had them for 3 years as a pair and are feeding on pellets. Peaceful but huge appetite. Moorish makes sure they know whos the boss. Not the rarest fish, but beautifully healthy and not common to see a pair in a reef, at least in my part of the world.

Over the weekend I made a purchase I honestly had no intention on making. Ventralis anthias (Pseudanthias ventralis) are definitely one of the trickier fish to keep long term. But the specimens I saw at a renowned local LFS had them feeding on XS TDO, hikari frozen copepods as well as RN Beta-Brine. I've seen many ventralis come through locally here in Singapore but I have never seen them come in this size, let alone eating!

What gave me pause was that they have some specific requirements. But I figured I had a good environment for them to give it a fair shot without it being an absolute gamble.

1. They are deepwater and prefer slightly cooler water and darker tanks.

My smoothskin tank is generally lower in par (max 300-350 with a focus more on spread and coverage over PAR), and more tuned to blue. Unlike usual high light, harsh white reef tank lighting. The temperature band of the tank was previously at an average of 26 C/78.8F so i brought it down to 25C/77F (24.5-25.5 as monitored by APEX). I will bump it down a smidge to 24C/75F over the current week.

*Some of the pictures and videos were taken in white light with the radion demo mode, its usually just bluey

2. They require peaceful tankmates

In general, I think the tank is quite low on aggression. There are no feisty acanthurus or zebrasomas. The group of fish that I feared might cause the most trouble were the fairy wrasses. My Katoi, Roseband, Magma and Lunatus. All are male and are feisty with each other. Also the Opercularis Hogfish in general can be mean to new fish.

It was a good time to dust off the ol' isolation box for this.

They spent 3 days in an iso box (about 16inch/40cm length) with a bunch of PVC. Within minutes the females were taking prepared food but the male took a bout a day. Their foods were soaked with selcon and I fed them every 2-3 hours. The issue with the isobox is the flow in there is non-existent and food was beginning to rot. So i had to manually remove uneaten foods by the end of each day.

By day 3, they were eating great and all 3 were out and about, unfazed by the hustle and bustle of the world outside their box. Given their timid nature i figured it would be a good idea to let them get used to wrasses divebombing each other and the general tempo of the tank.

3. Feeding and converting them to larger sized foods

In general, I think anthias eat pretty well, but if they dont recognize what we present to them as food, they will not take it. I believe it was in a MACNA talk that I cant recall but since they are planktonic feeders that feed on really small particles, we need to meet them there and slowly introduce slightly larger foods each time.

The LFS had already done the hardest part. All I had to do was introduce them to food I generally feed my tank. I mixed RN Beta-brine + Hikari frozen copepods + XS TDO with selcon and they took to this quickly. On day 2 i began to drop in 2-3 bits of entire mysis which they also ate to my surprise (they ignored this on day 1)

4. Release

Releasing them on day 3 was daunting and stressful (for me). One leapt out of the isobox and onto the floor (a 5ft drop!) but its right as rain. I released them and they were chased around a bit by the opercularis hog and my joculators but eventually the male began eating and the females left their crevices to join him. 2-3 hours after release they are right smack in the middle of the tank sipping away at particulates in the water column.

(I did not edit this photo! Straight from the iphone look at the colors on them.)

I expected a longer and harsher acclimation period for these guys and the road is long and tumultuous (given their reputation) but here's hoping for the best.

What are some of your experiences (or second hand experiences) with ventralis?

 

[iFunnny]

For our more fish inclined reefers here's the stocking breakdown. Im pretty much full at this point on large fish, but I am thinking of rehoming the Blonde naso to make space. I have my sights on 1-2 more large centerpiece fish and some smaller ones.

I dont have pics of them all (especially the golden, its like a little tiny shadow in the tank. I see it flit but the moment I whip my phone out its gone)

Angels
1x Golden Angel (Centropyge aurantia)
2x Joculator/Coco's Angel (Centropyge joculator)
1x Yellow-bellied Regal Angel (Pygoplites diacanthus)

Tangs
1x Convict Tang (Acanthurus triostegus)
1x Blonde Naso (Naso elegans)

Wrasses
1x Choati Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon choati)
1x Magma Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus shutmani)
1x Katoi Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus katoi)
1x Lunate Fairy Wrasse/Crescent Tail Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus lunatus)
1x Rose band Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus roseafascia)
1x Pink Streak Wrasse (Pseudocheilinops ataenia)

Butterflies
1x Copperband butterfly (Chelmon rostratus)
2x Yellow Longnose Butterfly (Forcipiger flavissimus)

Misc.
1x Opercularis Hogfish (Bodianus opercularis)
1x Moorish Idol (Zanclus cornutus)
2x Tailspot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura)
4x Green Chromis (Chromis viridis)
3x Blackfin Dartfish (Ptereleotris evides)
1x Green Mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus)
1x Aiptasia Eating Filefish (Areichthys tomentosus)
3x Ventralis Anthias (Pseudanthias ventralis)

Ventralis Anthias (Pseudanthias ventralis)

Choati Leopard Wrasse (Macropharyngodon choati)

Pink Streak Wrasse (Pseudocheilinops ataenia)

Opercularis Hogfish (Bodianus opercularis)

Joculator/Coco's Angel (Centropyge joculator)

1x Moorish Idol (Zanclus cornutus)

Yellow-bellied Regal Angel (Pygoplites diacanthus)

Blonde Naso (Naso elegans)

Yellow Longnose Butterfly (Forcipiger flavissimus)

 

[lubeck]

Great thread love the theme. Following

 

[Reginald Reefer III]

This is awesome! I love smooth skins! Following along!

 

[iFunnny]

Full Tank Shot Friday!

Got some new mini colonies. Purple lokani that needs some TLC, and 3 other corals i have no ID for. Also my Moorish was a bit too eager and chomped on the glue as I was gluing stuff in place.
View attachment 4336030 View attachment 4336029 View attachment 4336037 View attachment 4336038 View attachment 4336039 View attachment 4336035 View attachment 4336032 View attachment 4336036 View attachment 4336040

 

[Huskereef]

impressive system and love your smoothies. I noticed you said you are using bw razor in your pico. I have a 50 gallon with about 20 mini acro colonies at this point. Also a bubble algae issue that won’t go away no matter how much I remove each week. Have you had experience using razor with Acros? tick them off if so or no problems? tia

 

[Fish Styx]

Added a bunch of fish over the past few weeks and my carbon dosing line had been failing so nutrients have been creeping up . Trying to bend it back to my will.

I will go over my full fish list in another post, but right now these are the newest additions.

A pair of Yellow Longnose butterfly fish (Forcipiger flavissimus). Got them from a reefer who was leaving the hobby, he has had them for 3 years as a pair and are feeding on pellets. Peaceful but huge appetite. Moorish makes sure they know whos the boss. Not the rarest fish, but beautifully healthy and not common to see a pair in a reef, at least in my part of the world.

Over the weekend I made a purchase I honestly had no intention on making. Ventralis anthias (Pseudanthias ventralis) are definitely one of the trickier fish to keep long term. But the specimens I saw at a renowned local LFS had them feeding on XS TDO, hikari frozen copepods as well as RN Beta-Brine. I've seen many ventralis come through locally here in Singapore but I have never seen them come in this size, let alone eating!

What gave me pause was that they have some specific requirements. But I figured I had a good environment for them to give it a fair shot without it being an absolute gamble.

1. They are deepwater and prefer slightly cooler water and darker tanks.

My smoothskin tank is generally lower in par (max 300-350 with a focus more on spread and coverage over PAR), and more tuned to blue. Unlike usual high light, harsh white reef tank lighting. The temperature band of the tank was previously at an average of 26 C/78.8F so i brought it down to 25C/77F (24.5-25.5 as monitored by APEX). I will bump it down a smidge to 24C/75F over the current week.

*Some of the pictures and videos were taken in white light with the radion demo mode, its usually just bluey

2. They require peaceful tankmates

In general, I think the tank is quite low on aggression. There are no feisty acanthurus or zebrasomas. The group of fish that I feared might cause the most trouble were the fairy wrasses. My Katoi, Roseband, Magma and Lunatus. All are male and are feisty with each other. Also the Opercularis Hogfish in general can be mean to new fish.

It was a good time to dust off the ol' isolation box for this.

They spent 3 days in an iso box (about 16inch/40cm length) with a bunch of PVC. Within minutes the females were taking prepared food but the male took a bout a day. Their foods were soaked with selcon and I fed them every 2-3 hours. The issue with the isobox is the flow in there is non-existent and food was beginning to rot. So i had to manually remove uneaten foods by the end of each day.

By day 3, they were eating great and all 3 were out and about, unfazed by the hustle and bustle of the world outside their box. Given their timid nature i figured it would be a good idea to let them get used to wrasses divebombing each other and the general tempo of the tank.

3. Feeding and converting them to larger sized foods

In general, I think anthias eat pretty well, but if they dont recognize what we present to them as food, they will not take it. I believe it was in a MACNA talk that I cant recall but since they are planktonic feeders that feed on really small particles, we need to meet them there and slowly introduce slightly larger foods each time.

The LFS had already done the hardest part. All I had to do was introduce them to food I generally feed my tank. I mixed RN Beta-brine + Hikari frozen copepods + XS TDO with selcon and they took to this quickly. On day 2 i began to drop in 2-3 bits of entire mysis which they also ate to my surprise (they ignored this on day 1)

4. Release

Releasing them on day 3 was daunting and stressful (for me). One leapt out of the isobox and onto the floor (a 5ft drop!) but its right as rain. I released them and they were chased around a bit by the opercularis hog and my joculators but eventually the male began eating and the females left their crevices to join him. 2-3 hours after release they are right smack in the middle of the tank sipping away at particulates in the water column.

(I did not edit this photo! Straight from the iphone look at the colors on them.)

I expected a longer and harsher acclimation period for these guys and the road is long and tumultuous (given their reputation) but here's hoping for the best.

What are some of your experiences (or second hand experiences) with ventralis?

I love the Ventralis! Beautiful build. I'll be tagging along for the ride. Any updates?

 

[iFunnny]

impressive system and love your smoothies. I noticed you said you are using bw razor in your pico. I have a 50 gallon with about 20 mini acro colonies at this point. Also a bubble algae issue that won’t go away no matter how much I remove each week. Have you had experience using razor with Acros? tick them off if so or no problems? tia

Thanks! I’m having a slime problem now and loss 1-2 colonies sadly.

I have no issue with using brightwell razor with corals. Just follow the instructions and ramp the dose slowly . It will take 7-10 days before u see any meaningful impact but the bubble algae will slowly become translucent and peel off

 

[RandomChronical]

Following !

 

[Huskereef]

Thanks! I’m having a slime problem now and loss 1-2 colonies sadly.

I have no issue with using brightwell razor with corals. Just follow the instructions and ramp the dose slowly . It will take 7-10 days before u see any meaningful impact but the bubble algae will slowly become translucent and peel off

Slime as in cyano? The best thing that worked for me to beat cyano is SunnyX recipe on here for coral snow. Takes a couple months but if you stay with it, it works.

Thanks for the info on the razor product!

 

[iFunnny]

I just realized posting from the phone app doesnt seem to come through.

Some updates:

Ventralis died after a week. They just started to die over night one by one, despite not being bullied and eating a lot. checked with my LFS and said it could be uronema which i did have at one point in my tank. Copperband perished as well, it was getting spooked at feeding and the moorish beat it up, found it on the wavemaker one morning.

Added a small Achilles and its eating a lot, some ich on it that comes and goes but nothing too bad, about the 2.5month mark now.

Also added a Madagascar Flasher Wrasse male, was worried for abit because the fairy wrasse squad were giving him the business. The Roseband that was being bullied has now grown larger than the rest in a very short span of time, which is insane. Feeding 8-10x a day does wonders !

Lost 2-3 colonies i really liked, the white icefire, one speciosa and suharsonoi. All three i loved deeply. I had a po4 spike and slime recently which has been annoying to deal with but is slowly coming under control.

The rest of the sps seem to be doing okay. Some encrusting, some having more growth tips, but some just staying the same. Color isnt where i want it to be, waiting on the TM ICP and we shall see. Been doing K+ A- blindly at less than recommended dose, something i shall fix after ICP.

Also i swapped out my Deltec 3070 for a Bubble King 250 RDX external skimmer and a secondary smaller OCTO skimmer just for ozone as the BK is not ozone ready for this model. Nutrients are at 5-9 No3, 0.08-0.12 po4, maintained with Bactobalance, but i have a feeling its the reason im having slime, so im gonna stop and see if it gets better. Hopefully the BK will keep the tank even cleaner.

Tank is not where i would like it to be in terms of growth and color, but each day the sps stay alive is one step towards a better tank down the road! Trying not to be discouraged.

 

[iFunnny]

Been spending more time on my 4ft Nyos LPS dominated, ill start another thread at some point but here it is now. Did a major overhaul to the scape.

It is not very heavily stocked
1x Lennardi (i grew it from an inch, finger nail sized specimen to it's current size in about 1.5 y ears. Weathered every disease storm and scape change!)
1x Earmuff wrasse
1x Kuiteri leopard
1x copperband
1x sulawesi basslet
1x spotted boxfish
2x pink streak wrasse
1x pictus blenny

I dont see half of these fish on the regular lol.

 

[iFunnny]

Some videos of both tanks.