So...I can't keep SPS!

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Kingston

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+1 on testing the Alk to see the swings that are happening daily and document that for future adjustments.

In my experience, I was having a hard time with SPS in my tank and I was running 1.026 salinity. my good friend Jesse recommended that I go down to 1.024-1.025 range because 26 is very close to the upper limit and if for whatever reason the ATO cant keep up, you salinity will be fluctuating a lot... ANYWAY that change made a huge difference in my tank having SPS in it. not saying that is the issue, but it just happened to help my tank out in the situation.
Thanks. I randomly test salinity since the hannah checker is so easy to use. So far the salinity has been very stable especially since it is a big tank. I will make note of that all the same. Thanks once again.
 
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dedragon

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i would change to 1 time a week 10% water change instead to help with parameter swings. Before that i would prob do a couple water changes to get the nitrate and phosphate down a bit. then monitor alk and calcium swings daily over the course of a week or 2 to help dial in daily 2 part dosing (are you using a dosing pump?) after you can keep testing down to once or twice a week as long as parameters are staying stable
 
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Here is the issue. Once my tank hit about 2 years, SPS just took off. It's really about biodiversity. Young tanks that are started with sterile dry rock, just cannot support SPS life regardless of what the parameter of the water are.

Do an @AquaBiomics test and you'll see the difference between a young tank that was started with dry rock, and one that can support SPS.

You definitely need to test a couple times a day, morning and after light cycle to get a feel for your swing.

Keep a log, lots of apps can do that for you.

You’re alk shouldn’t be swinging more than .3 or so from day to day.

I try to keep mine from swinging more than .2.

It is typical to have lower alk at the end of your light cycle and higher in the morning. That swing is fine as long as it isn’t over .3 or so and it does it consistently.

Alk stability is key, all your other parameters look fine.

I would also suggest testing PO4 once per day to get a feel for what it’s doing as well as NO3.
So I was actually looking into getting the Trident last month when Neptune had their sale to monitor Alk, Calcium and Mg. I didn't because I didn't think I had anything worthwhile in the tank to warrant getting the Trident. Maybe I should.
 
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Here is the issue. Once my tank hit about 2 years, SPS just took off. It's really about biodiversity. Young tanks that are started with sterile dry rock, just cannot support SPS life regardless of what the parameter of the water are.

Do an @AquaBiomics test and you'll see the difference between a young tank that was started with dry rock, and one that can support SPS.
So more or less, let things ride for now? I am happy to do that is that is the case.
 
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Just one tiny remark, all advices were correct and helpful and probably “true”.
However, maybe we should be a bit careful with some strong statements (just to avoid mixing sufficient and necessary condition).

-My current tank is bare-bottom, pure dry rock... and full sps. Possible... but not the easiest way.
-Hobby test: perform 3 times the same test... I wouldn’t be surprised if you get at least one different result. Depending on the brand... all 3 :)

Anyway, as most of you already said:
- test alkalinity everyday at the same time during a few days to see the swings.
- ICP test.

Remember, full tank pictures are always helpful
Good luck!
Thanks will do.
 

ScottR

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Here’s an interesting read. Anthony pretty much nailed it. And there are pages of discussion. Always good to seek a second opinion.

 
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I'd like to better understand what you mean by "SPS turned brown". Also, did you ever get a bad case of dinos? If you don't run chaeto yet, how is your PO4 so low?

+1 on pics!
Majority typically starts by losing tissue at the tips and turning brown or bleached white and extending towards the base. The white skeleton ultimately turn brown. I will try and post a pic of the most recent one asap.

I did have a case of what I thought was cyano and later GHA (look at my profile pic). Ultimately they all cleared without any chemicals.

Not sure if my PO4 is considered low but yes, I don't run chaeto yet. I feed twice a day a mixture of food and run a skimmer. That's it.
 
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i would change to 1 time a week 10% water change instead to help with parameter swings. Before that i would prob do a couple water changes to get the nitrate and phosphate down a bit. then monitor alk and calcium swings daily over the course of a week or 2 to help dial in daily 2 part dosing (are you using a dosing pump?) after you can keep testing down to once or twice a week as long as parameters are staying stable
unfortunately, I am dosing by hand and keeping a log and basically doing my own calculations to determine how much to dose. For the past several weeks, I actually had my Alk consistent at 8.5 and Cal at 450. Alk just bumped to 8.7 just last week. I was hand dosing because I an ACR CalRx but haven't put it online yet...because I don't have much in the tank yet.
 
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So I was actually looking into getting the Trident last month when Neptune had their sale to monitor Alk, Calcium and Mg. I didn't because I didn't think I had anything worthwhile in the tank to warrant getting the Trident. Maybe I should.
I purchased the Trident over a year ago.

One of the best purchases I’ve made in the hobby.

It’s been dead accurate for me. Truly a game changer.
 
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I purchased the Trident over a year ago.

One of the best purchases I’ve made in the hobby.

It’s been dead accurate for me. Truly a game changer.
I see... I know I will get some form of automated monitoring but was waiting till I get some corals in the tank first and was also looking at the coralvue hydros line as well.
 
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Pic from this morning. Lights just came on so might be too blue.
 

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Loosechangereef

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My reciepe to keeping sps in a 50 gallon waterbox with 1 xr15 and 2 orphex strip light, and 1 in tank ws skimmer.Started with 40 pounds hatian live rock, w\c a least every 2 weeks, dose brightwells code a and b make from powder,also a hang on refuge with miracle mud and cheato,Alot of flow, in the current market there is alot of different pumps you can get.Dont chase numbers try to keep it basic exp heatersand salinity.aslo get fish in there and feed.Dont chase numbers and i contribute my sucess is to use ro\di water and make sure reading 0 tds.
I try note to use phosphate remover
also i use a low phospherous meter
Carbon occasionaly just to polish water
Test alk frequently
Took about 14 months to alk to settle in, now i test alk once a week sometimes twice,also make sure your calcium is at least 400
Sps like w\c especially every 2 weeks in a mature system about 20 percent
I dose 2 part twice , once in morning around 10 and at night around 10
I noticed my sps where healthiest around 1 . 5 years, they are and encrusting where they are fighting now
Note: good indiciation which most people keeping sps is coraline algae incrusting alot.
Also start ur corals low get a frag rack and move up especially if you are using halides.
Dont add to many chemicals at once , i try note to add any.
Note: i do add oyster feast, reef roids , phyto,but feeding fish is the most important, just watch your phosphates, but phospahates are ok corals need it not too high
Sps are verysensitive but if your system is mature they will thrive
Good luck keep it basic and dont sweat it out,



1/2/2021

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I dose Reef Pro Part A and B every night to maintain Alk and Ca.

Okay thats good but thats daily dosing, I was asking after your water change, your Alk levels will fall quite significantly, so how do you compensate for that ? Otherwise everytime you change water you end up shocking the system.
 

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what deep said, are you altering the levels of the newly mixed saltwater by changing the alk or are you just adding the water to the tank and adjusting it later? If you want to keep alk at 8.5 or so it may be best to change to a different salt mix as tropic marin mixes to 7dkh. i do suggest a dosing pump with two part at least for the alkalinity part as it is easy for that to cause precipitation if not dosed slowly, and also its just easier especially in such a large tank.
 
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Okay thats good but thats daily dosing, I was asking after your water change, your Alk levels will fall quite significantly, so how do you compensate for that ? Otherwise everytime you change water you end up shocking the system.
I see what u mean. And you are right, I know Tropic marine mixes at 7dKH and I actually test on Saturdays and do my water changes on Sundays and wait until Wednesday to test again. So technically I will drop with a 20% addition of 7dKh to 80% of 8.5dKh. I'm going to look into that.
 
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what deep said, are you altering the levels of the newly mixed saltwater by changing the alk or are you just adding the water to the tank and adjusting it later? If you want to keep alk at 8.5 or so it may be best to change to a different salt mix as tropic marin mixes to 7dkh. i do suggest a dosing pump with two part at least for the alkalinity part as it is easy for that to cause precipitation if not dosed slowly, and also its just easier especially in such a large tank.
I'm wondering if I should just put the ACR calcium reactor on the system already, or get a temp dosing pump
 
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