So lost

[Wolters_88]

I would suggest taking a water sample to a trusted LFS and have them test water sample to verify readings and compare with your readings

My LFS only uses the cheap basic API test. I asked them and that was a no-go.

 

[Perthegallon]

Would phosphates that high not be killing stuff? People want it at like .03 and it’s saying I’m at 2.50.

Honestly I wouldn’t worry unless you have been seeing a trend upwards I’d have to reason to suspect anything other then hanna checker making the mistake is going on sometimes the regent just goes bad as well so before using the new hanna checker from amazone try the regent they send you first and if it fixes it buy a new regent and send the hanna checker back

 

[Fishingandreefing]

Would phosphates that high not be killing stuff? People want it at like .03 and it’s saying I’m at 2.50.

Not necessarily if it gradually went up that high I think. Phosphates prohibits growth of the corals. My is still high at around .35.

 

[Hubert J. Farnsworth]

Would phosphates that high not be killing stuff? People want it at like .03 and it’s saying I’m at 2.50.

if you're phosphates that high, you would be likely to have algae issues. it also doesn't necessarily kill corals, but it inhibits calcification (growth) in stony corals. so i'd be willing to bet there are plenty of softy tanks out there doing just fine with phosphate above 2.5 ppm.

not sure what point it becomes toxic to fish or anything else for that matter.

 

[Wolters_88]

My Torches are doubling About once a month and my Duncan has gone from on head to 7 in the last four months. The other things are zoas and mushrooms which seem to be doing fine too. Maybe they would be growing faster but in a 32G. I don’t want them to grow that fast anyways. It’s pretty much full. I do know the sticks are all a Brown color now.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Other things can limit algae in the presence of high phosphate, including herbivores, trace elements, and nitrogen.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

My Torches are doubling About once a month and my Duncan has gone from on head to 7 in the last four months. The other things are zoas and mushrooms which seem to be doing fine too. Maybe they would be growing faster but in a 32G. I don’t want them to grow that fast anyways. It’s pretty much full. I do know the sticks are all a Brown color now.

Browned up corals is the usual knock on elevated nutrients as zoox levels in the corals can expand (maybe other reasons too).

 

[Wolters_88]

Browned up corals is the usual knock on elevated nutrients as zoox levels in the corals can expand (maybe other reasons too).

Ya, my nitrates are about 20 and we’re at 60 two months ago.

 

[Rjmul]

Lanthinun chloride and chill.
I would give up on fighting the phosphate with nopox. It's possible for the nopox to tackle it but for arguments sake just pretend it won't.

 

[jeffchapok]

I'd definitely spend the $17 to get a good PO4 test kit to validate the Hannah before I did anything to actively try to reduce phosphates.

 

[Wolters_88]

I'd definitely spend the $17 to get a good PO4 test kit to validate the Hannah before I did anything to actively try to reduce phosphates.

Waiting on that to arrive as we type. Should be here Friday. Just that whole month wait for anything that’s not essential took forever.

 

[Wolters_88]

Lanthinun chloride and chill.
I would give up on fighting the phosphate with nopox. It's possible for the nopox to tackle it but for arguments sake just pretend it won't.

If it comes back that high I could use this and it won’t hurt anything?

 

[robbyg]

Waiting on that to arrive as we type. Should be here Friday. Just that whole month wait for anything that’s not essential took forever.

The real problem is if the new test kit confirms that the original test is right! Then your looking at a very odd situation that most of us have never experienced before. Thats pretty much why most of us think/hope that the kit is defective.

 

[Rjmul]

If it comes back that high I could use this and it won’t hurt anything?
[/QUOTE

I would never change anything quickly in a reef tank. I like brightwells version Of lanthinun chlorode because they're instructions are very clear and I'm not very smart. If you follow their directions, every product works. But check your math several times. Many many times. And don't drop your phosphates immediately. I would cut them in half. Then half again. Then half again. Until it's at the level you want. This probably isn't necessary, but it's smart.

I dose it via my auto top off.

 

[Wolters_88]

I was using the phosphate E but was told by another member here to use nopox and the instructions state not to use both.

 

[Rjmul]

I was using the phosphate E but was told by another member here to use nopox and the instructions state not to use both.

Every System is different. I've used both with no issues. In my experience nopox doesn't touch phosphate.

 

[Wolters_88]

Ok, so I got my other test. Guess I ordered the API test and not the Salifert. The reviews are better for the API. Why I purchased it now that I think about it. It’s looking more like 0.5 to me. Hard to tell TBH until it’s over 1. But not even close to what the Hannah is showing at 2.5.

 

[NS Mike D]

Don't use the API to verify the hanna. sorry but you are back to square one. Not saying the API is wrong, but they have a history of reading too low and thus not recommended for reef tanks.

 

[Wolters_88]

Got a question, my reagents say 713-0 and all the ones online for reordering say 713-25. Which ones do I need to order? My machine says HI 713 but a local guy said they are not all the same.

 

[Wolters_88]

Well, Salifert shows over 1.0. Guess I’m screwed. Should I just sell the corals I have and start over or what? No clue what could be causing the phosphates.