Somebody help please!

[J_Hooligan]

Okay so I introduced a Midas blenny into my tank after I had him in my quarantine tank for a good 3 weeks and did the copper treatment and all, today I noticed he got ick! I have a tomini tang, pajama cardinal and a snowflake clown in the tank right now what do I do!!

 

[Marshall O]

I guess if you can catch him easily enough, do that and place him back in QT. To treat with Cupramine, you need to be at 0.5 and hold it there (don't let it drop) for 4 weeks. After the 4 weeks, run carbon to remove the copper and then you still should wait another 2-4 weeks (4 weeks ideally) to make sure it is gone.

How bad is it though? A couple of spots, or covered?

 

[Mike J.]

Maybe the Midas Blenny was stressed from QT and copper treatment and as soon as you put it in the tank which is harboring ich it was highly susceptible. I'd guess that there's ich in your tank and the fish in there are healthy enough not to show signs of it. Who knows when that will change? Your tank is infected with ich.

 

[rworegon]

You're probably going to need to treat all your fish and let your display go fallow for about 10 weeks. Sorry.

 

[Gundo]

If possible leave the lights off a couple days and keep all fish fed well unless you can get him out...

 

[Reefing Madness]

First off, don't panic, just because you see a couple of white dots on him doesn't mean its ich. Are you sure its not sand specs on him? If your other fish are in good health I wouln't worry about them, or about trying to catch a stressed out fish. Leave him, If he's eating he should be ok, don't go stressing him out any further.

 

[J_Hooligan]

Thanks for all the replies guys, and I'm pretty sure it's ich, he kept scratching himself and what not. I tried to get him out and that didn't work out so I gave up. He is still in that piece of rock hopefully I didn't stress him out that bad :/ anyways I got ich about a year ago and left my tank fishless for 10 weeks, all my fish that I introduced after were healthy and showed no signs if sickness. I guess I'll just let it be and keep them well fed. They can recover on their own right?

 

[Reefing Madness]

Yes, they can recover by themselves. My Hippo Tang gets ICH everytime I changed up the tank, she gets rid of it by herself, takes about 2-3 weeks, but it all clears up and none of my other Tangs gets it.

 

[alan.reef]

that a good news!! my powder gold rim suddenly got bad ich. he;s eat well. but the ich wont go away.about 2 weeks now.

Yes, they can recover by themselves. My Hippo Tang gets ICH everytime I changed up the tank, she gets rid of it by herself, takes about 2-3 weeks, but it all clears up and none of my other Tangs gets it.

 

[J_Hooligan]

I figure I just keep them well fed and do water changes and keep everything normal vs me getting them out and all that craziness.

 

[J_Hooligan]

Here's my crew my snowflake clown wasn't feeling up to the picture lol

 

[xthunderx]

I've know of people that Ich in their system and keeping it in check with a UV sterilizer. Key is to get a decent UV with slow flow to give the UV time to do it it's work.

 

[Reefing Madness]

UV only sterilizes the free floating stage of hte parasite itself or the eggs, it does nothing for what already landed.

 

[xthunderx]

UV only sterilizes the free floating stage of hte parasite itself or the eggs, it does nothing for what already landed.

Correct, it's only a half measure that provides relief, but the only option for some folks. I personally went hypo with great results. My Achilles was the worst, he was full of spots and within a week I couldn't find a single one.

 

[monkiboy]

the problem with hypo is that it does nothing for MV and if you have a misdiagnosis which is common especially for an unseasoned reefer you've likely just allowed your fish to die. it also is more stressful than cupramine and the process of acclimating down and up back to typical reefing salinitiy needs to be done carefully (especially when going back up). cupramine is simple, a simple enough test kit, wide therapeutic range for what we reefers worry the most about, scientifically proven effective, is tolerated by almost all fish rather well, and easy to remove once treatment is completed.