spectrum change? led lights, enchancements and absorption

[GSnake]

hey guys,

If I were to build an LED light, I'd use these LEDs. I'm discussing spectral quality, not intensity:
365nm - The same output, more or less, of the mercurt spike seen in lamps containing mercury. I have some evidence that this can slightly increase coloration in some corals.
400nm - Has some UV-A as well. Useful in photosynthesis and color generation.
420nm - Same as 400nm, without the UV.
470nm - The universal light for showcasing coral fluorescence.
510nm - Absorbed by the accessory pigment peridinin and transferred to special chlorphylls in reaction centers.
587nm - There is some evidence that yellow light can generate red chromoproteins in corals.
Cool/Warm White LEDs - Provides blue and red light, along with some green. Useful in photosynthesis and is reflected by fishes, making them appear 'natural.'
730-740nm - Selectively absorbed by Pigment 700 found in Photosystem I. Possibly helps in reducing light-induced stresses in high light situations.

after reading this, looking at the chlorophyll a and c2 charts for absorption, and watching recent brs investigates on light spectrum (led to match proven/good looking t5 bulb combos), I was thinking about swapping out some of my led's for different colors.. for three reasons, possibly more growth, better/more coloration, and better blend for viewing …
currently : coolwhite, warmwhite 2700k, red 660nm, green 520nm, blue 460nm, royal blue 450nm, and purple 410nm,

I was thinking about getting these leds' to replace a few of the ones I currently have
a few 585nm yellows for chromoproteins, (coloration) - does warm white count as a yellow light?
430nm indigo (viewing, coloration, and growth) ….however if its said that 420 is the same as 400nm, then maybe my 410nm is the same as 430nm.. I was aiming for peak chlorophyll a absorption.
400nm possibly as well (coloration)
510nm possibly .. (for more growth? or even viewing of overall blue spectrum)
UV 360-385nm- ive heard many sources say its potentially bad/uneeded, or doesn't help corals at all, actually restricting growth - (more coral color for less growth?) - I use a glass top too, will this diminish its effects anyway?
maybe one 630nm for chlorophyll c2 (growth) .. perhaps my 660 nm is good enough

is it possible that getting new led's for peak chlorophyll absorption might be redundant, based on chlorophyll already fulfilling corals needs (through intensity of near correct nm), or is there more potential with correct nm

my corals are growing, I just wanted to maximize my color for corals through lighting and even the viewing area of my tank.

 

[oreo54]

Glass is "good" to about 350nm where it starts to then rapidly absorb it..
Your warm whites should contain enough "yellow"..
Substituting pc amber will eliminate the need for them.
Problem w/ ww vs pc amber is you add a lot of other "stuff" like green and red.
Should have enough 630 red in them as well..
Same w/ the cool whites but that depends on the diodes k temp.

630 and 660 both have benefits, in small quantities..

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425-510 band is what you want to hit hard. Of course combinations will change the overall look.

I still see no need for green diodes, not if running any whites.

You are missing the 490-510 range so adding cyan will help there.

Is this a diy arrangement or are you replacing diodes in like a black box?

 

[Dana Riddle]

hey guys,



after reading this, looking at the chlorophyll a and c2 charts for absorption, and watching recent brs investigates on light spectrum (led to match proven/good looking t5 bulb combos), I was thinking about swapping out some of my led's for different colors.. for three reasons, possibly more growth, better/more coloration, and better blend for viewing …
currently : coolwhite, warmwhite 2700k, red 660nm, green 520nm, blue 460nm, royal blue 450nm, and purple 410nm,

I was thinking about getting these leds' to replace a few of the ones I currently have
a few 585nm yellows for chromoproteins, (coloration) - does warm white count as a yellow light?
430nm indigo (viewing, coloration, and growth) ….however if its said that 420 is the same as 400nm, then maybe my 410nm is the same as 430nm.. I was aiming for peak chlorophyll a absorption.
400nm possibly as well (coloration)
510nm possibly .. (for more growth? or even viewing of overall blue spectrum)
UV 360-385nm- ive heard many sources say its potentially bad/uneeded, or doesn't help corals at all, actually restricting growth - (more coral color for less growth?) - I use a glass top too, will this diminish its effects anyway?
maybe one 630nm for chlorophyll c2 (growth) .. perhaps my 660 nm is good enough

is it possible that getting new led's for peak chlorophyll absorption might be redundant, based on chlorophyll already fulfilling corals needs (through intensity of near correct nm), or is there more potential with correct nm

my corals are growing, I just wanted to maximize my color for corals through lighting and even the viewing area of my tank.

I don't know the ratios, but their spectra look OK to me. I suspect changes would produce marginal results, spectrally speaking.

 

[GSnake]

its a replacing diodes idea, 3w led's

using this chart too, I think it would also be a good idea to add a cyan (which is 490-495 nm)/ turquoise (500-510nm) In there, seems like a wide range of pigment emission occurs here.

the ratios thus far .
cool white 16 leds / 55 (looks like 6500k), = 29%
warmwhite 6 leds / 55 (2700k), = 10%
blue 20 leds / 55 @ 460nm, = 36%
royal blue 3 leds / 55 @ 450nm, = 5%
red 4 leds / 55 @ 660nm, = 7%
green 2 leds / 55 @ 520nm = 3%
violet 4 leds / 55 @410nm = 7%

what would you change around if this was your spectrum mix? (its a very blue look -- not that i mind tooo much)

 

[GSnake]

I combined r g b from my other controllable light to test out how the corals look, and cyan looks pleasing to the eye and made my BTA look nicer than blue alone, and yellow was ok too, naturally blue alone was the best for tank overall, magenta and red were the least pleasing

 

[blasterman]

hey guys,

my corals are growing, I just wanted to maximize my color for corals through lighting and even the viewing area of my tank.

This statement is an oxymoron.

Your eyes become decreasingly sensitive to blue light as the wavelength goes from 500nm (blue green) to 400nm (UVA, or LED based blacklights). To a coral 470nm blue puts out about the same energy as 420nm per equal efficacy of the emission source. So, by using these funky < 450nm LEDs you just make your tank darker per the same level as PAR.

I've screwed around with my own DIY rigs using 390-440nm LEDs and they didn't make a bit of difference. Just made the tank darker and more purple. Back before the days of LED's we would put 420nm actinic tubes on SPS tanks to get some better actinic response but we never did it to increase growth rates and if you claimed such you got laughed at. Now suddenly with the advent of violet LEDs we have a solution in search of a problem.Plus, the amount of radiometric energy you are throwing in the tank in these funky wavelengths doesn't amount to much anyways.

460-470nm is really the color you want to mix in because t allows you to turn up reds or warm whites and get some spectacular color with LPS and palys without the tank looking like a blacklight. Problem is those LEDs only exist as cheap 2watt Asian emitters and it's not fun mixing those on a string of XPG3's given their severe current limitations.