SPS Acropora Help - no vertical growth

jda

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Everybody has one or two like this... is this just one or two, or the majority?

New growth going sideways or down is a good sign that it is light. Just getting fat and encrusting can sometimes be too much flow - yes, you can have too much flow but your three MP40s don't seem like too much offhand.

If the majority and they are growing down, then what do you have the LEDs set to? The only times that I have seen this is from HQI bulbs when folks took the glass off, or from LEDs with too high of whites, reds, greens and yellows which can hurt coral - both have bad spectrum that can do damage it too high of quantity.
 

Flippers4pups

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You better change that into English as that's a forum rule my friend. :) and I'm not kidding o_O

I forgot! Was having fun. Changing now. I spent two years in Germany in the army. My German is Rusty. Lol
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Everybody has one or two like this... is this just one or two, or the majority?

New growth going sideways or down is a good sign that it is light. Just getting fat and encrusting can sometimes be too much flow - yes, you can have too much flow but your three MP40s don't seem like too much offhand.

If the majority and they are growing down, then what do you have the LEDs set to? The only times that I have seen this is from HQI bulbs when folks took the glass off, or from LEDs with too high of whites, reds, greens and yellows which can hurt coral - both have bad spectrum that can do damage it too high of quantity.
I dunno. I've had all 3 types of light though. Two tanks some of the same corals in each.
I'm a Brancher.
 

29bonsaireef

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I have noticed frags from the same coral encrusting way more in a tank with higher par than in another tank with lower par. In the wild acropora will encrust a decent portion of rock work before sending up any branch work. IME, hitting them with high par they can take time encrusting and grow a nice base. Where as in a lower par system they start growing towards the light right away. High flow will cause thick branching patterns, low flow more spindly/skinny branches. If they are growing steady let them encrust, when the time comes they will explode into colonies.
 

Diesel

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You know guys, Dana had a thread going on some point.
I need to find it as flow and light goes hand in hand though.
 

mcarroll

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If the majority and they are growing down, then what do you have the LEDs set to? The only times that I have seen this is from HQI bulbs when folks took the glass off, or from LEDs with too high of whites, reds, greens and yellows which can hurt coral - both have bad spectrum that can do damage it too high of quantity.

...and basic B+B+W led's in a moderate flow system. I can't see a pattern to be honest. My birdsnest in the low light tank grows straight down on most branches. My M. digitata grew in huge HUGE plates with only a scant few "fingers" poking up, none of which were longer than 3" in my low light tank AND in my brighter tank. Flow is different in each.

My guess, but without enough evidence to really know, is that lens angle plays a bigger role than we think about....lenses do shape the light, so it could make sense.

You better change that into English as that's a forum rule my friend. :) and I'm not kidding o_O

I know you said you're not kidding, is there really a R2R rule that says that? Sounds so odd it's hard to believe.
 

Diesel

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...and basic B+B+W led's in a moderate flow system. I can't see a pattern to be honest. My birdsnest in the low light tank grows straight down on most branches. My M. digitata grew in huge HUGE plates with only a scant few "fingers" poking up, none of which were longer than 3" in my low light tank AND in my brighter tank. Flow is different in each.

My guess, but without enough evidence to really know, is that lens angle plays a bigger role than we think about....lenses do shape the light, so it could make sense.



I know you said you're not kidding, is there really a R2R rule that says that? Sounds so odd it's hard to believe.

Am I ever kidding......

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hej-från-sverige.319111/#post-3947231
 

jda

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My guess, but without enough evidence to really know, is that lens angle plays a bigger role than we think about....lenses do shape the light, so it could make sense.

Any idea what type/kind/angle of lenses? Anything anecdotal is fine and could be a starting point to turn other anecdotes into trends.
 
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reefer1

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I have a standard/unmodified Maxspect R420R LED unit. I think it's 300W. I don't know what type of the lenses it has.
I also have two T5 blue+ bulbs
 

scchase

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Something I have had great luck with over the years when they are encrusting like this has been to cut the starter branch off just leaving the encrusting part, frequently they will put out a bunch of new growth tips shortly after doing this.
 

saltyfilmfolks

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My guess, but without enough evidence to really know, is that lens angle plays a bigger role than we think about....lenses do shape the light, so it could make
Mmmm. That's just blending.
It would effect half a colony. Or one frag and not the one next to it.
I think we not observe all these differences in The tank.
So one of my frags should encrust , the same coral right next to it or close would.
But right now they are not.

(Good and bad I had to frag my big vileda colony and now have 1,40374938 frags of it):oops:

;)
 

Peng

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high flow -> thicker, denser branching.
higher nutrients (NO3 1 - 2 and up) -> thicker branching but more intense coloration
 

Salty1962

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high flow -> thicker, denser branching.
higher nutrients (NO3 1 - 2 and up) -> thicker branching but more intense coloration
Is this in a study or just your experience?:)
 

madcanary

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My Acros seem to encrust forever. I actually got to internet searching all I could find really was time was the answer.
Stability is key, as with any coral mine seemed to take almost a year to show any vertical movement some still haven’t but they are newer but my oldest stuff has finally started it’s almost a daily change on some stuff.
I run triton and measure alk everyday. I’m holding 7dkh that’s where the magic seemed to happen at 8 the colours where not as vivid.
I run 3 xr30pros and 4 mp40qds on a 150 par is around 250-350 on my acro ‘shelve’

F9C47DCA-D606-4796-A891-4D858570E52D.jpeg


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1A8C256B-8DB3-425B-93AB-7720520C49B7.jpeg


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A37BDF16-0568-4EE0-9B45-9188877DADC4.jpeg
 

Diesel

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My Acros seem to encrust forever. I actually got to internet searching all I could find really was time was the answer.
Stability is key, as with any coral mine seemed to take almost a year to show any vertical movement some still haven’t but they are newer but my oldest stuff has finally started it’s almost a daily change on some stuff.
I run triton and measure alk everyday. I’m holding 7dkh that’s where the magic seemed to happen at 8 the colours where not as vivid.
I run 3 xr30pros and 4 mp40qds on a 150 par is around 250-350 on my acro ‘shelve’

F9C47DCA-D606-4796-A891-4D858570E52D.jpeg


5854A5A4-D326-4900-B045-1EA13B657320.jpeg


1A8C256B-8DB3-425B-93AB-7720520C49B7.jpeg


9976C6F8-EEDB-425E-855F-7A2FCACD1ED9.jpeg


D432361E-2069-4A69-A866-BE5A2004430E.jpeg


013865D3-F90A-4C96-9728-E28141F1BB1E.jpeg


A37BDF16-0568-4EE0-9B45-9188877DADC4.jpeg


You got that right.
I have ran my ALK on many levels but between the 7 and 7.5 is where my corals had the best color and grew the best.
Not to mention my nutrient levels.
You run the Radions and I did had them for 3.5 years from gen 1 through the gen 3 pro, awesome results.
But must say nothing replaces a well thought and designed color combo on the T5's.
IMG_1452.JPG
 

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