SPS Bacterial Infection?

kalendo

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Hello everyone! I am new here and have been working on my reef tank for 6 months. Lately I have been experiencing some issues with my SPS corals. I had a normal birds nest and currently have a Pink Hyacinth Birds Nest, Pink and Green Damicornis, Purple Bonsai, LA Laker monitpora, Purple Stylophora, Yellow Fuzzy Lantana. My issues seems like the tissues of my SPS are showing RTN. Here are the timelines of my corals.

May 25, 2014 - Parameter
SG 1.025
PH 8.3 (Taken: 1159 EST)
CA 420
dKH 8
NO2 0
NO3 0
Phospate No Algae (lawl)

Purchased Purple Stylphora and ORA Birds of Paradise May 26, 2014
- Acclimated them and place them in the rockwork they would go on
May 28, 2014
-Noticed Stylophora and BoP looking a bit white.
gZCY9dm.jpg

jymzCeZ.jpg

Y0NSEe4.jpg

Purchased Pink and Green Damicornis and Pink Hyacinth Birds Nest May 30, 2014
- Acclimated them and place them in the rockwork they would go on
May 31, 2014 Paramater check
dKH 10 (API)
Ca 420 (API)
SG 1.026 (Hydormeer)
PH 8.4 (digital PH)
Nitrate/Nitrite 0
MG Do not test
At this time moved all SPS to the substrate at the lowest lit area.
June 02, 2014 Update
Purple Stylophora
KbrEcUG.jpg

Pink Hyacinth
lmhACJP.jpg

Birds Nest
3rCsEyz.jpg

Pink/Green Damicornis
NiKy2E7.jpg


Birds of Paradise
8nY5u6H.jpg

G2kXuLo.jpg

It looks like it has some nice polyp extension. And it looks decent in the just whites and whites/blue.


Pink Hyacinth
I7btmhk.jpg

u5hGTgI.jpg

Same as the BoP, nice PE and color, what do you guys think?


Purple Stylophora
jBrmPHG.jpg

It is a bit brown under just white and no PE. Should I keep him there or move in back to the low light?


Pink/Green Damicornis
Xzsy4aB.jpg

m4gYRcS.jpg

Unsure about this, coloring looks off and PE isnt there. I got this coral the same time as the Hyacinth.

Purple Bonsai -Added 10 June 2014
- Temp. acclimated/Drip acclimated
- Dip this in Lugols for 15 minutes
- Backside of coral is completely gone - 12 June 2014


June 12, 2014 - Parameter Check
SG 1.025
Ammonia 0 ppm
dKH 9
CA 420
The rest other than Mag is 0
Mag i dont not test but might have too...

Tank setup:
40 Breeder

2 Jebao WP-10
Overflow Box (Rated for 600 GPHJ)
Return Pump (Unk GPH)
Malibu S120 Reef Led
20H Tank w/ SCA-302 Skimmer
AC70 - Running carbon

This is the timeline of events and the best record I could keep. I talked to a LFS who sold me a 6" Maxima who believes its a bacteria infection. What are your thoughts and if you need more information place let me know.
 

SPotter

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Few things come to mind...first get better test kits. API's are not entirely the best. Second, why is your alk bouncing around so much? 8 up to 10 then down to 9 is no good! SPS need stable parameters! Third...if you truly have no nitrates or phosphates it's possible you're starving your corals. Fourth....definitely should test for mg....it's an important level to maintain. Finally, how long are you running your lights for?
 
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kalendo

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For the Alk bouncing around, I was attempting to get a sweet spot for the right balance between my ATO, Return and Overflow that sometimes extra RODI+Nanocode B is added I feed my corals 3 times a week, a mixture of Zoopldasnktos-S/L + Oyster Eggs and Rotifers and Coral Frenzy (Yellow package) and I also use Rod's original blend so should have some small particles for SPS. My Blues turn on at 10AM @ 14% than ramp up to 25% @ 1130 at which time my whites would turn on @ 20% and then at 1230 my Royal Blues turn on @ 15% and ramp up eventually @ 17%. After a few hours they ramp down until its just my Blues which shut off @ 14% at 10PM. I have moonlights for a few hours and thats about it. I plan to get new test kits and I have read a few articles that state the API arent THAT bad tbh. Need to find it. Do you think I might have a infection? My LPS and Zoas are doing great.
 
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kalendo

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My last reply was a mess, here I go:

For the Alk bouncing around, I was attempting to get a sweet spot for the right balance between my ATO, Return and Overflow that sometimes extra RODI+Nanocode B is added.

I feed my corals 3 times a week, a mixture of Zoopldasnktos-S/
L + Oyster Eggs and Rotifers and Coral Frenzy (Yellow package) and I also use Rod's original blend so should have some small particles for SPS.

My Blues turn on at 10AM @ 14% than ramp up to 25% @ 1130 at which time my whites would turn on @ 20% and then at 1230 my Royal Blues turn on @ 15% and ramp up eventually @ 17%. After a few hours they ramp down until its just my Blues which shut off @ 14% at 10PM. I have moonlights for a few hours and thats about it.

I plan to get new test kits and I have read a few articles that state the API arent THAT bad tbh. Need to find it. Do you think I might have a infection? My
LPS and Zoas are doing great.
 

SPotter

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I don't think you have an infection. So what's the max intensity your lights get to?

When you dip in lugols is it straight lugols or are you following the directions?
 
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kalendo

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My light's max intensity is @ 25% Blues, 20% Cool Whites, 17% Royal Blue, All others @ 20% (UV/G/O/R).

My light fixture is currently the S120 Malibu (16") hanging about 13" AWL.
 
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kalendo

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Also for the lugols, I follow the directions which is 40 drops of the solution into 1 gallon aquarium water. Than let the corals stand for 10-15 minutes. It is the Kent Marine Lugol's Solution.
 

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Ok so why so low on the intensity with the light? Sorry not familiar with your light. You need to get your alk stable before adding and additional Sps. Get a mg kit and see what that level is. Once your parameters are stable add a piece of birdsnest and see how it does. I suspect your lights need to be turned up as the Sps might not be getting enough light. Finally, ditch the coral foods. Feed your fish and they'll feed your corals! I try not to put anything in my tanks that I can't test for.
 
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kalendo

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The light is similar to the ever grows but built a built different. So I should count my loses? None of my SPS will make it?
 

SPotter

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I don't that's the case but IMO you a few issues here. Stability and lighting. You need to test mg and see what that level is, get your alk at a steady number and then increase the light intensity. These things will take time and unfortunately in this hobby nothing good happens fast.
 
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kalendo

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Btw, the reason why my light is low is to get my corals (the SPS mainly) acclimated to my LED lights since without proper acclimating they will burn them easily. I will get a new test kit at least for the CA/dKH/MG. And honestly should I keep my SPS that are dying in the tank? or leave them to see if they will recover eventually after my tank has stabilized? Or does it seem like they will not recover at all, not even a slight possibility?
 
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kalendo

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Well for some reason I have been stupid and not testing NO3 and NO2 like I should and found out that my NO3 was at 80ppm and NO2 at 1. So if I haven't been testing this like I should, could this effect the SPS overall health to the point of whitening or should only stun the growth and coloring? Meaning can high NO3 kill SPS corals?
 

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The tank looks very new. It could be cycling still, how old is it? I don't dip in iodine because it will stress out sps more than revive or other dips. Check phosphates with a good kit. Where in va are you?
 
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kalendo

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Did a 12.5% water change (5Gallon) on my 40Breeder. My NO3 went from 80 to 40! So after work today plan to get another 10Gallons and do another water change hoping to lower my Nitrate levels. What could cause the levels to go up? And would this change cause my SPS to die?
 
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kalendo

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@Pedoconfuego My tank is about 6 months old. I am in the Hampton Roads area.
@Spotter To the point where a Bonsai will lose flesh in less than two days? Unfortunately my LFS didn't receive a shipment of new Reef Foundation test kit and won't until Monday so we will be testing my water to ensure my test kits aren't bad.
 
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kalendo

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@Pedoconfuego My tank is about 6 months old. I am in the Hampton Roads area.
@Spotter To the point where a Bonsai will lose flesh in less than two days? Unfortunately my LFS didn't receive a shipment of new Reef Foundation test kit and won't until Monday so we will be testing my water to ensure my test kits aren't bad.

Forgot to mention I thought if you do not have "algae" you don't have high enough phospates or am I wrong?
 

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The nitrites and high nitrates in the system are going to be a problem for SPS. Nitrates should be under 20 for SPS to be happy.

The fact there's little to no polyp extension on those indicates there's either a parameter issue or a flow issue. You seem to have enough in the latter department (perhaps too much if any of those frags are in a near/direct path of the powerheads), so I must conclude the nitrates are you primary problem.

Forgot to mention I thought if you do not have "algae" you don't have high enough phospates or am I wrong?
Not necessarily true. It takes three components to grow algae: nitrates, phosphates, and iron. Any one of the three can become the limiting factor, if it's a low level.
 
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kalendo

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The thing is nitrates has been seen until lately, so would it be the reason why my SPS are dying?
 

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