OP
OP
Zeal
2500 Club Member
I have a MP10 at 100% TSM mode 24/7
and a Nero 5 at 80% 24/7
Right now intensity at 50% down from 100%
SPS dying, I suspect its my light..
- Thread starter Zeal
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and a Nero 5 at 80% 24/7
Gallon total?
Uncle99
7500 Club Member
Right now intensity at 50% down from 100%
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I like that number, let them get used to that
Add 10 in Dec, let them sit.
What looks minor to us is small light changes.......big for them.....we just don’t recognize that wave length
[/QUOTE]
I like that number, let them get used to that
Add 10 in Dec, let them sit.
What looks minor to us is small light changes.......big for them.....we just don’t recognize that wave length
OP
OP
Zeal
2500 Club Member
Red Sea 170, so like 40ish gallons
I like that number, let them get used to that
Add 10 in Dec, let them sit.
What looks minor to us is small light changes.......big for them.....we just don’t recognize that wave length
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Will do, right now im not even looking at the tank. Other then feeding the fish
Alk is high for that low of PO4. Pair it with new lights with a greater intensity and SPS will struggle. Now throw in a relatively new tank started with dry rock.
It's a combination of things making this happen.
It's a combination of things making this happen.
IslandLifeReef
Valuable Member
I know this might be out there a bit, but since you were running G4's before with more white light, you may actually have reduced the amount of PAR that your corals were use to when you went to the bluer settings. I would think that going from blue to white would have a higher likelihood of burning corals than the other way around.
The only real way to know what is going on with the lights is to rent a PAR meter and take readings. I have the same tank as you with a Hydra 26HD and a T5 hybrid fixture. I was running the BRS AB+ program for that light, and the PAR was way to low for the tank. My SPS would slowly wither away. Once I rented a PAR meter, I saw that I needed to add more light.
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OP
OP
Zeal
2500 Club Member
Actually prior to the new tank I was running a red sea 90 and G4 Pro 15 with pure blue only. Then with the G5 I changed to the BRS setting which is HEAVY white.I know this might be out there a bit, but since you were running G4's before with more white light, you may actually have reduced the amount of PAR that your corals were use to when you went to the bluer settings. I would think that going from blue to white would have a higher likelihood of burning corals than the other way around.
The only real way to know what is going on with the lights is to rent a PAR meter and take readings. I have the same tank as you with a Hydra 26HD and a T5 hybrid fixture. I was running the BRS AB+ program for that light, and the PAR was way to low for the tank. My SPS would slowly wither away. Once I rented a PAR meter, I saw that I needed to add more light.
Also I dont believe the G5 Pro 15 isnt putting out enough late. I know someone that run the same tank I have SPS heavy with a Red Sea 90 light that can grow anything.
OP
OP
Zeal
2500 Club Member
rock wasnt dead when I added my live stock, had algae and was covered. Not to mention the sump had about 10 pounds of old rock from my old tank.
Also the question isnt being answered as to why some SPS are dying and others aren't. Especially the monticaps that can grow anywhere
What I mean is the rock was once dry rock. It does not have the bacterial diversity of live rock from the ocean. Anecdotal evidence shows that live rock (from the ocean) seems to help increase the success of SPS and this is thought to be because of bacterial diversity. Some people can start with all dry and do great but many can not... I think this shows that biodiversity can at least help protect SPS when something else is off.
I would lower lights and let alk drop. If your salt has high alk then use one with lower alk for water changes or stop dosing and let it drop naturally.
Some dying and others not isn't unusual imo. When I had temp spikes or salinity spikes or such, some SPS would look fine and others would start to die or discolor. Even SPS that are the same type. My pink birdsnest and red monti seem unkillable but my sour apple bird and green monti show decline before acro's do when **** starts to go awry.
I would lower lights and let alk drop. If your salt has high alk then use one with lower alk for water changes or stop dosing and let it drop naturally.
Some dying and others not isn't unusual imo. When I had temp spikes or salinity spikes or such, some SPS would look fine and others would start to die or discolor. Even SPS that are the same type. My pink birdsnest and red monti seem unkillable but my sour apple bird and green monti show decline before acro's do when **** starts to go awry.
Henryb9
Active Member
Could be alk swing, are you testing daily? And with which brand? But it’s mostly like a decrease in nutrients.. Plus, running that many hours with 100% intensity not a great idea. I have mine on phx14 oem template with no issues for 12 hours straight.
Henryb9
Active Member
Also if they are pale as your saying, it’s definitely low nutrients.. I had the same issue last month.. start using reef energy plus 20 ml everyday and see how much they’ll color up. Your running ulns without probably not feeding them the right amount.
OP
OP
Zeal
2500 Club Member
Alk right now is 10.3 just tested. I lowered my doser to 1ML every 2 hours instead of 2ml every 2 hours in hopes to slowly lower my alk. Also did a heavy feeding and dosed some red sea AB+...
At this point im giving up
At this point im giving up
OP
OP
Zeal
2500 Club Member
Should I continue dosing every 2 hours?
Sounds like minstrel filaments?
Upgrading can be stressful... flow patterns change, lighting is usually upgraded/changed, nutrients may change and so on.
Upgrading can be stressful... flow patterns change, lighting is usually upgraded/changed, nutrients may change and so on.
OP
OP
Zeal
2500 Club Member
Not sure. Kinda looked like it. This ALWAYS happens when I dose AB+
Pistol Peet
Reefing , family ,God, country.
magnesium little low 1360ppm target. sps high flow light maybe if par is 4 to 500 and i t came from 250 to 300 par needs to be acclimated slower put it lower to the bottom of the tank let it acclimate and slowly raise the height in the tank as u see it do good .
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