SPS Frags Browning/Bleaching – Help Please

mike.b

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Hello All,

Sorry for the long post – I wanted to give as much background info as possible.

I am struggling keep my various SPS frags alive and have tried everything I can think of to get them back on track. They were thriving prevously with good growth, polpy extension etc. Now they have pretty much all browned out and a few have bleached as well.

The change started at about half way through a 10-week fallow period that I was ridding my tank of ich - this began mid September. The fallow period ridded the tank of ich, but even with fish back in I haven’t been able to change the course of my SPS. Even my GSP doesn’t look as good as it did and they typically thrive in most conditions. The only thing that seems to be thriving is the coralline algae on the back.

I have attached pictures of the tank, all equipment, and logs back to end of September (could go back as far as anyone needs to see) below if anyone has any ideas. - Don’t mind the regal tang, he is fine, just in shock because I had to change the Radions so I could take a picture on my phone and it not be overly blue.

At this point I am guessing trace elements such as strontium, iodine, potassium, iron, and other trace elements are not at proper levels causing my issues, but I am just guessing.

Since core parameters all have been stable and in a good range below are some ideas I thought to be causing the decline:

1) Chloramine in water – started using 2x carbon blocks with specific chloramine block. Also started dosing prime in top up water and water change RO/DI.

2) Lack of Nutrients – In the fallow period I fed the tank consistently everyday (with frozen bloodworms, mysis, brine, etc.) or every other day. Also, used reef roids every other day. Zero detectable phosphates, nitrates and no algae issue. Pod population took off.

3) Lack of trace elements – Did several large water changes which only seemed to make things worse or have no effect on decline.

4) Foreign objects in tank – Could not find anything that would result in the issues experienced. No metals, foreign plastics, etc. Took apart MP40’s to check the magnet, cleaned skimmer pump. Only thing not opened and checked was the return pump (Mag drive).

5) Dead zones in PVC piping that would allow some water to go toxic when not in use – reworked plumbing so reactors or other equipment would not be branched off but instead be directly off main run. I always previously flushed water out of pipes before turning on any equipment if they were on any runs like this.

6) Chaeto being too efficient at removing nutrients – removed 80% of chaeto from refugium. Reduced lighting hours of Refugium.

7) Homemade DIY dosing ingredients toxic in some way – Stopped dosing, saw no change for a few days and levels dropped - Switched Alk, calcium, and magnesium to ESV.

8) Radions too intense – lowered from 80% to 70%, then later on 70% to 60%.

Logs:

Sep 30 t0 Oct 29 - https://imgur.com/srHK0dq
Oct 28 to Nov 15 - https://imgur.com/HGwauvC
Nov 15 to Dec 9 - https://imgur.com/tcJV0EC
Dec 2 to Dec 30 - https://imgur.com/yZ4GKN4

Equipment:

https://imgur.com/FqiOKay
https://imgur.com/QDwpe0K
https://imgur.com/ePdPOqD

Tank:

Dec 30 2018 - https://imgur.com/xNyEzvx
Oct 28 2018 - https://imgur.com/QoqhFtl

Any ideas, suggestions or help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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RobZilla04

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Coralline growth is a good sign.

Send a water sample out for full analysis. That'll give you a better idea about all those trace elements and other nutrient levels. They'll even check your RODI water.

Without having test results to compare from before the fallow period to now, it can be really difficult to narrow down a specific cause. Likely too many changes over a period of time is the cause. Get back to a stable routine and stable parameters and things should recover. It'll take some time, but you're on the right track if coralline is growing IMO.
 

DivingTheWorld

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While some people can run sps tanks with low nutrients, I've always done better with at least detectable. I'd guess your non dectable nutrients are/were the issue. I'd start feeding your fish more and see if you can get those detectable.
 

TX_Punisher

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Icp now that you’ve made these changes. Water changes help. Wait 3-4 days after a large water change to send in a sample.
 

BigAsh

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Do you have enough flow in the tank? I think I see one Vortech pump. I was having similar problems with Acros. I increased flow and the problem seems to have gone away (knock on wood). I'm now running two Gyre 250 and two MP 40. I'm not sure if that was the cure though. I started my tank with dry/dead rock and my SPS didn't really start doing well until about 20 months.
 

Gregg @ ADP

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While some people can run sps tanks with low nutrients, I've always done better with at least detectable. I'd guess your non dectable nutrients are/were the issue. I'd start feeding your fish more and see if you can get those detectable.
For sure.

To me, super low NO3/PO4 levels are a green light to start pouring more food in.
 
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mike.b

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Thanks for all the feedback, much appreciated!

Send a water sample out for full analysis. That'll give you a better idea about all those trace elements and other nutrient levels. They'll even check your RODI water.

I’ve never done this before, but sounds like a great idea. I am in Canada so I will have to do some digging to try and find a place to do this. Suggestions welcome!

Do you have enough flow in the tank? I think I see one Vortech pump.

Lots of flow, I have 1x MP40QD (2 total) on each side of the tank. Debris basically can’t settle unless in feed mode.

While some people can run sps tanks with low nutrients, I've always done better with at least detectable. I'd guess your non dectable nutrients are/were the issue. I'd start feeding your fish more and see if you can get those detectable.

For sure.

To me, super low NO3/PO4 levels are a green light to start pouring more food in.

I have never been able to detect any NO3 or PO4. Even ghost feeding the regular amount of food in fallow period didn’t give me any which I was concerned about.

I feed these guys usually once a day, but a lot so there is extra for hermits, shrimp, etc. + nori sheets every other day. The skimmer is gravity fed and taking most of the overflow and the rest goes to filter socks. I would just think there would be enough dissolved nutrients now especially with such a small amount of Chaeto in the fuge.

I was thinking of picking up some Flourish Nitrogen today and starting to dose that. I am in Canada so we cannot get stump remover easily. If this works I can figure out a cheaper alternative or just order it in the bulk sizes if that’s the solution.
 

DivingTheWorld

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How big is the tank and what do you have for fish? I think I see two micro clowns. When people say to “feed the fish more”, IMO it goes with the assumption that you have enough fish. SPS basically get their nutrients from two things, light and fish poop. If you only have a couple fish, they will never poop enough. So this leaves you with two options. 1: dump in a bunch of expensive additives, coral food etc. or 2: add more fish and feed them. I personally follow the second one. I just slowly (say once a month) added one fish at a time until my nutrients started to show. The only additives other than Cal and Alk I put in my Acro tank are fish food and occasionally Vibrant.
 
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mike.b

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How big is the tank and what do you have for fish?.

Most fish are fairly small. See below for livestock listing. They hide well for there not being a ton of rock.

I completely stopped buying fish/corals because of the decline of the corals and not knowing the cause. I agree 100% on addding more fish over additives and there are defientily a few more fish I want to get.

158 gallon (26x26x54)
50ish gallon sump (48x18x18)
29 gallon refgium

2x Mocha Clownfish
1x Fox Face
1x Royal Gramma
2x Yellowheaded Jawfish
1x Yellow Tang
1x Regal Tang
1x Tomini Tang
4x Green Chromis
1x Six Line Wrasse

1x Cleaner Shrimp
1x Blood Shrimp
1x Tuxedo Urchen
3x Hermit Crabs (Blue, Halloween, Scarlet)
1x Sand Sifting Star
1x Pom Pom Crab
1x Emerald Crab (Pink)


Potassium tested at 330ppm today. I dosed 20ml of Flourish Nitrogen and 10ml of Red Sea Potassium +.
 

KCSUMPS

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so a bit old post but where are you now with this? did you do testing? what was your solution or do you have one yet?
 
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mike.b

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so a bit old post but where are you now with this? did you do testing? what was your solution or do you have one yet?

Hey sorry for the slow reply, but I continued to does flourish nitrogen for about a month, it only took about half the bottle and everything came back.

I think the tank needed a boost and now I hardly dose it and regular feedings take care of it. If colors on the corals don’t look as bright I might do a couple doses, but don’t even need to consistently dose it at this point. Hope that helps anyone in the future!
 

jerrod

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Im dealing with the same issue now but am still in the fallow phase, but unless my tests are bad my nutrients are detectable.
 

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