Sps high nutrients myth?

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No light alone. several, actually many many observations of others tanks with NSW+ level alk and mag levels, report loss of coralline with higher pars. I would have questioned those parameters and dosing method but would have been off topic. If you google many Par charts and look at higher Par tanks, you'll see a correlation. The common Purple seems to die off unless in shadows, powerheads, sumps back walls etc while reds and others remain.
This seems to happen above the 350 400 par mark.
Mainly an ongoing question I have.
Well it certainly dies back in my MH tank. Goes from purple to pink and then whitish pink. For some reason dosing kalk seems to start bringing it back.
 

iiluisii

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Here is another one for y'all. How do we know that the coral is at the healthiest point with extra nutrients and deeper coloration.

I'm a fan of keeping coral colors as they come from the ocean. Have you guys seen what an acro looks like straight from the ocean ? Yeah it looks way lighter so that tells me that acropora like lower nutrients and are healthier when they have less zooxanthellae algae. This is one of the reasons I decided to use the zeovit system I wanted natural looking colors. This is my own opinion and I'm not saying others are not right.
 

saltyfilmfolks

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I've actually learned to dispise coralline over the years, mainly once I started to keep SPS. It would consume my Ca, alk, and lots of Mg and steal it away from my SPS. That and scraping it all the time drove me nuts!
The only time I ran across the legendary "BAD ROCK" ie nitrat Phosphat factory, is was coated in thick thick Coralline. I think it choked out the bacteria. when I broke it open it stank like rot, not eggs thank goodness, but def different than any other rock ive opened.
SO no, I don't miss it. And yes, my nutrients are lower and will drop faster. Perhaps its the additional year of maturation of the bio filter, or the addition of the blood, sweat and spit.

How do we know that the coral is at the healthiest point with extra nutrients and deeper coloration.
we don't. it could be many factors.
Yeah it looks way lighter so that tells me that acropora like lower nutrients
True. but as my first tri color valeda showd me, they live in many places, and change colors where they live.
This is my own opinion and I'm not saying others are not right.
And yea,As long as we like our own reefs.
 

FarmerTy

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Here is another one for y'all. How do we know that the coral is at the healthiest point with extra nutrients and deeper coloration.

I'm a fan of keeping coral colors as they come from the ocean. Have you guys seen what an acro looks like straight from the ocean ? Yeah it looks way lighter so that tells me that acropora like lower nutrients and are healthier when they have less zooxanthellae algae. This is one of the reasons I decided to use the zeovit system I wanted natural looking colors. This is my own opinion and I'm not saying others are not right.
I'm of the opinion that we actually give them better conditions in our tanks, like dogs have it better in our houses now then wild dogs, but that may open a whole new can of worms of discussion points.

They also get natural sunlight at 3-5k but I sure as heck don't want to look at corals in that type of lighting. Just my own preference though there as well. They will grow faster in it as well.

I think discussions of natural seawater parameters are often relevant and sometimes irrelevant. I don't ever pretend to think I'm running anything close to what the natural ocean is like. It is tweaked to keep my acros pretty in my eyes. Those values to do that and also light spectrum often have very little similarities to natural parameters they are found because what we keep is hybridized between natural parameters and what we have found that has worked best for growth and coloration in our glass boxes of water and electricity.

Nutrient levels on ocean reefs are often so low its often undetectable. Most of the acros are also shades of brown, tan, and mustard yellow. To be honest, I really don't want to replicate that. Sure, coming straight from the ocean and into our 14k-20k light spectrum makes them look pretty when they first come in but I have found over the years, some true gems are discovered that don't need zeo, fauna Marin, or Aquaforest to create the zooxanthallae starved look with pops of colors that zeo is so known for. To each their own, I run mine with a goal to achieve those colors and the people who run zeo and similar systems to it prefer theirs to look their preferred way. The diversity of systems is always amazing and greatly appreciated honestly.
 

iiluisii

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I'm of the opinion that we actually give them better conditions in our tanks, like dogs have it better in our houses now then wild dogs, but that may open a whole new can of worms of discussion points.

They also get natural sunlight at 3-5k but I sure as heck don't want to look at corals in that type of lighting. Just my own preference though there as well. They will grow faster in it as well.

I think discussions of natural seawater parameters are often relevant and sometimes irrelevant. I don't ever pretend to think I'm running anything close to what the natural ocean is like. It is tweaked to keep my acros pretty in my eyes. Those values to do that and also light spectrum often have very little similarities to natural parameters they are found because what we keep is hybridized between natural parameters and what we have found that has worked best for growth and coloration in our glass boxes of water and electricity.

Nutrient levels on ocean reefs are often so low its often undetectable. Most of the acros are also shades of brown, tan, and mustard yellow. To be honest, I really don't want to replicate that. Sure, coming straight from the ocean and into our 14k-20k light spectrum makes them look pretty when they first come in but I have found over the years, some true gems are discovered that don't need zeo, fauna Marin, or Aquaforest to create the zooxanthallae starved look with pops of colors that zeo is so known for. To each their own, I run mine with a goal to achieve those colors and the people who run zeo and similar systems to it prefer theirs to look their preferred way. The diversity of systems is always amazing and greatly appreciated honestly.

I agree with you on a lot of this except the part about the corals looking brown, mustard etc that is the actual color of the coral just because we are blasting them with 450nm artificial lighting and they are showing fluorescent and the coral looking in our eyes completely different does not mean the corals have colored up or gain any color. A lot of people get this wrong.
 

Paul B

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I took this off Bora Bora about 100' deep using a flash. This is the color of the rock there. Of course without the light, everything is blue as that is the only color you see.

 

saltyfilmfolks

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utrient levels on ocean reefs are often so low its often undetectable. Most of the acros are also shades of brown, tan, and mustard yellow.

agree with you on a lot of this except the part about the corals looking brown, mustard etc that is the actual color of the coral just because we are blasting them with 450nm artificial lighting and they are showing fluorescent and the coral looking in our eyes completely different does not mean the corals have colored up or gain any color. A lot of people get this wrong.
your both correct actually. IMO. both appear to be true.

This is a great thread.
Uh YEA!!

I love this thread too, and have found it especially interesting relating to my current tank issues. Thank you to all who have contributed, most interesting.
Right? with yours and the Low Par thread its like a full reefing meal!

I took this off Bora Bora about 100' deep using a flash. This is the color of the rock there. Of course without the light, everything is blue as that is the only color you see.

You and your facts again Paul.;)
 

saltyfilmfolks

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I don't understand. What is the fact about that picture ?
those coral are brown under the 5600k-6000k(true 6k not reef) flash. if you put some of those in our tank some would be pink green and blue etc.
 

iiluisii

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those coral are brown under the 5600k-6000k(true 6k not reef) flash. if you put some of those in our tank some would be pink green and blue etc.

That's because that photo was taken back in 1940 when Paul was 20 years old lol.

IMG_7241.JPG
 

saltyfilmfolks

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That's because that photo was taken back in 1940 when Paul was 20 years old lol.

IMG_7241.JPG
Hahaha. Kodachrome still is the best. No really it is.

Your pic is in the shallows btw. And as I mentioned before. It appears that my Valeda lives in both depths.
 

Paul B

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That's because that photo was taken back in 1940 when Paul was 20 years old lol.

IMG_7241.JPG
That is correct and in 1940 we didn't need photo's, we just drew pictures of things in crayon. :p
 

griff500

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They also get natural sunlight at 3-5k but I sure as heck don't want to look at corals in that type of lighting. Just my own preference though there as well.

Do they get that? At the depth they are at? Obviously the depth varies. Aren't we trying to replicate the wavelengths they get at certain depths in our much shallower tanks, taking into account our viewing pleasure and health/growth goals?

I am aware of your success in your tank and not debating against your comments, I'm just curious.
 

FarmerTy

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Do they get that? At the depth they are at? Obviously the depth varies. Aren't we trying to replicate the wavelengths they get at certain depths in our much shallower tanks, taking into account our viewing pleasure and health/growth goals?

I am aware of your success in your tank and not debating against your comments, I'm just curious.

Oh I was just pulling a spectrum out of my head, I'm pretty sure its probably not correct. [emoji6]

I just remember that it is more of a lower kelvin than what we run in our reef tanks but not motivated enough to look it up right now. I'm fragging corals right now for somebody. [emoji4]
 

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