SPS in newer small QT

Pyrosteve · Jun 16, 2020

So I'd like to get a mixed SPS Pack for my nano and I want to QT in a 10 gallon tank that's been up and running for a few months. It has 36 watt LED and a coralife T5 fixture. It's running a Aquaclear 110 filled with biomax & sponge. I used it to QT my fish and zoas. Would I be able to QT SPS with this setup or at least keep them in for a week or so until I can remove plug, inspect and dip?

stephj03 · Jun 17, 2020

I'd like to bump this as I'm in a similar position. Apologies if this comes across as a thread hijack. I recently setup a stock 130d for use as an SPS QT tank. It's been up for a couple of wish and there's been a PC rainbow frag and a BBG Digi frag in there for a wk "surviving".

I just put a frag pack in there today but felt like I needed to crossy fingers and toes.

To the OPs question, can some of you out there:

1. share pics/info about your SPS QT tanks? Specifically: tank size/gear, rock/filtration, amount of time you had it up before putting QT frags in, how you keep it going when you don't have any frags in QT?

2. What is your QT regimen? Dip schedule, observations, trigger for graduation to the farm/display

@Mods, I think this would be a really meaningful sticky for the SPS forum. Something that covers QT setups and and how to set them up and keep them going.

I think I'm not alone in saying that I stayed away from setting up a dedicated QT tank bc I assumed it would involved cloning my display and I can't afford the space/gear

But if it can be accomplished similar to fish QT, I think I and most others can actually make it happen in the garage etc.

SifuMemphis · Jun 17, 2020

When you said you used this tank in the past to QT fish. Did you use any meds, copper etc? If you did, i would probably not use this tank for your QT frag. It's possible that copper can seep into the silicon, which would cause you to have issues

@stephj03 There are a lot of threads floating around, but this video is def. a good watch on how to set up a simple QT coral tank

stephj03 · Jun 17, 2020

Here is mine:

Red Sea 130d all stock (110w PC lighting), AIO skimmer/heater/return pump.

MP40 on the right side blowing across approx 3L of Siporax harvested from my display sump after 3yrs.

PVC/egg crate frag cracks approx 6" under the water

Status:
Frags went in 1wk after water/Siporax went in. Zero dosing to this point. Brown film algae

Frags are alive but not thriving. Polyps are out, color has faded on the frags (need stronger light).

Use plan: put SPS frags in here after dip if frags arrive in good condition (out stressed frags directly in). Monitor for pests for 2wks before transfer to grow out or display tanks.

Can anyone tell me and the OP if we are way off here or do these rigs sound reasonable for 2wk QT?

Is 2wks enough? Do the frags need to thrive during QT or just "survive"?

Does the QT tank need to remain online or can it be put up temporarily when new frags come in?

Pyrosteve · Jun 17, 2020

SifuMemphis said:
When you said you used this tank in the past to QT fish. Did you use any meds, copper etc? If you did, i would probably not use this tank for your QT frag. It's possible that copper can seep into the silicon, which would cause you to have issues

Yes I did treat one fish in it once with copper. I didn't think of that. It has been set up and taken down a few times since and QT'd some other LPS and Zoas with no issues but I know SPS can be delicate. When I need it I set it up and use 1/2 new & 1/2 DT tank water. It's been up and running since March this time. I was going to throw in a piece of LR from my tank also and add some Bio-spira before the SPS pack. Thanks for the video. I noticed he was only using it for LPS/Softies and said he would take the SPS out within a week. I was just wondering if they would start to RTN as soon as I put them or if I has some time. I don't think I would leave them in there for a month. I think with a small tank the parameters could change too quickly for SPS.

Pyrosteve · Jun 17, 2020

Here's the set-up (it's a little dirty and stirred up at the moment). The Aquaclear 110 gives plenty of water movement with no powerhead needed and it's filled with Bio-Max and Matrix. I also have two DIY 18 watt 10K LEDs to put on each side of the Coralife. Think it will work?

ReefLab · Jun 17, 2020

I kept some Montis in a new 10 gallon with just a HOB filter and fluval marine 3.0 (similar to a current USA light. low par). they did fine for a 45 day fallow.
Just be sure to top off the tank and change out a gallon at least every week

SifuMemphis · Jun 17, 2020

stephj03 said:
Here is mine:

Red Sea 130d all stock (110w PC lighting), AIO skimmer/heater/return pump.

MP40 on the right side blowing across approx 3L of Siporax harvested from my display sump after 3yrs.

PVC/egg crate frag cracks approx 6" under the water

Status:
Frags went in 1wk after water/Siporax went in. Zero dosing to this point. Brown film algae

Frags are alive but not thriving. Polyps are out, color has faded on the frags (need stronger light).

Use plan: put SPS frags in here after dip if frags arrive in good condition (out stressed frags directly in). Monitor for pests for 2wks before transfer to grow out or display tanks.

Can anyone tell me and the OP if we are way off here or do these rigs sound reasonable for 2wk QT?

Is 2wks enough? Do the frags need to thrive during QT or just "survive"?

Does the QT tank need to remain online or can it be put up temporarily when new frags come in?

Well.. I guess it depends on how much you want to roll the dice before putting it in your main DT. Is 2 weeks enough to monitor if you have pest, aptasia, etc etc? I feel like sometimes it takes longer for people to spot these.

That also being said, if you're QT coral for potential ich, then I would assume you want to wait longer. In my QT tank, i QT corals to monitor for pests etc etc, but ALSO, there's a small chance, that Ich tomont stage (egg) attached itself to the frag plug or coral itself, and if you put it in your DT tank, there is a small likelihood that you can infect your DT with ich.

Normally, people QT their corals long enough, where the Tomont stage eggs hatch, free swims for 2 days, and dies..... before moving it to their DT.

Again, it's a small chance that this came happen..... so up to you on how long you want to play russian roulette. Most people who follow these QT procedures, leaves their coral in QT for 70-80 days before moving to DT to ensure it's completely ich free. My 2 cents.

For me, i am in no rush to move coral to my DT, so i am taking it slow and making sure it's all great before slowly moving it in to be on the safe side. I would hate to have to do 76 days fallow on my DT again since I had ich in the past.

stephj03 · Jun 17, 2020

SifuMemphis said:
Well.. I guess it depends on how much you want to roll the dice before putting it in your main DT. Is 2 weeks enough to monitor if you have pest, aptasia, etc etc? I feel like sometimes it takes longer for people to spot these.

That also being said, if you're QT coral for potential ich, then I would assume you want to wait longer. In my QT tank, i QT corals to monitor for pests etc etc, but ALSO, there's a small chance, that Ich tomont stage (egg) attached itself to the frag plug or coral itself, and if you put it in your DT tank, there is a small likelihood that you can infect your DT with ich.

Normally, people QT their corals long enough, where the Tomont stage eggs hatch, free swims for 2 days, and dies..... before moving it to their DT.

Again, it's a small chance that this came happen..... so up to you on how long you want to play russian roulette. Most people who follow these QT procedures, leaves their coral in QT for 70-80 days before moving to DT to ensure it's completely ich free. My 2 cents.

For me, i am in no rush to move coral to my DT, so i am taking it slow and making sure it's all great before slowly moving it in to be on the safe side. I would hate to have to do 76 days fallow on my DT again since I had ich in the past.