Squirrel's 40g CAD, my dream build

143MPCo

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I should have mentioned I tried that too, lol. Not much of a difference.

Right now it's performing right with the gate valve choked down, though that's a bit scary considering I have no emergency drain should that gate get clogged.

I suppose I could get the moisture sensor from apex and have it shut down the pump in case of a failure.
Did you try adding an air line gate valve to control the amount of air being pulled in via the air tube?
 

kschweer

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What you can try is making the durso out of 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" pipe if you can fit it using a coupling and reducer with a piece of 1" pipe sticking out the bottom to go into the bulkhead. I'm not sure the reasoning but in my experience upsizing the durso itself really helps. Most tank manufacturers do this as well. Best of luck
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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Did you try adding an air line gate valve to control the amount of air being pulled in via the air tube?

I'll have to hit homedepot tonight and see if I can pick up a 1/4 valve.

What you can try is making the durso out of 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" pipe if you can fit it using a coupling and reducer with a piece of 1" pipe sticking out the bottom to go into the bulkhead. I'm not sure the reasoning but in my experience upsizing the durso itself really helps. Most tank manufacturers do this as well. Best of luck

I'll see if I can fit one in there, it's pretty tight.


Thanks for all your suggestions and help everyone! Greatly appreciated
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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No dice on either of those fixes. A 1 1/4" durso was waaaay to big. I'm going to hit another hardware store and see if they have a flared coupler for the hoffer and try that.

The air line valve didn't seem to have much effect. Additionally it was too large and didn't fit under my overflow box cover.
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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Alright, I tried the larger durso again with a shorter standpipe. Same issue, I still have to choke back both the pump and the drain using the gate valve to stop too much air from entering my sump.



As you can see it's crazy tight in there. At this point I'm wondering if it's more related to the water level in the overflow box and less about the drain it's self, since the water is falling further than it has in my last build with this tank. The problem seems to improve when I choke back the drain with the gate and raise the water level in the box. Still a scary fix if you ask me.
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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Water level in the overflow also seems irrelevant at this point, I raised the drain by using a couple of 45s to get around the return line. On the plus side it seemed to quiet down the overflow box some.

Next thing to try is modifying the sump. Positively worst design ever for the record, two of the water paths completely bypass the filter sock one heading to the chamber where the Zeo reactor is, one to a rear chamber designed for a media basket which I removed and placed the pump for the reactor. The bubbles regardless of this are still making their way past the baffles to the return. I'm hoping the mod fixes the problem.
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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Let's start with the fact that my wife is a genius. After staying up till midnight last night tinkering with the tank trying to get rid of the micro bubbles, and finally giving up and going to bed. We were talking about the problem and possible causes I mentioned that the water diverts from the sock in two directions and saying the next thing I was going to try was modifying the sump and how irritating that is considering the price I paid for the thing. She asked why I didn't just add a second filter sock. Duh! Why didn't I think of that?!

Lo and behold, problem solved after installing it.

Love that woman.
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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Alright folks, a little update. The tank has been wet a month now running a full zeovit system. Cycled per their 14 day schedule. Water tests have resulted as follows for the past 3 weeks.
Ph n/a (because I've been lazy and still haven't calibrated the probe
Alk 8.6dkh
Ca 490
Mg 1470
Po3 .015
No3 25ppm
Salinity 35ppt (+/- 5) due to ato
Temp 76 (+/-1) controller variance in cycling on and off.
I've performed one rather large 30% WC due to an ato snafu last weekend, the No3 was the only value to really change and it came down to 15ppm, I was hoping that it would stay there. No such luck. Back up to 25ppm today, my thoughts are that the zeo is keeping it at this level however unable to decrease it below this threshold. My suspicion is that the rock is leaching the No3.
I have been very consistent in keeping all of the filtersocks and sponges clean.
Stocking is as follows, a number of zoas 60+ heads, a few hitchhiker mushrooms, 2 yumas, 7 Monti frags, 1 maxi mini nem, 1 acanthophyllia, 1 trachy, 1 red tux urchin, at least 20 hermits, 20 ceriths, 15 turbos, 20 nassarius, 1 psammacora, 1 maroon clown, 1 spotted mandarin (trained on pellets), 1 adorned wrasse, 1 blue spot jaw. I've been feeding everyone sparingly every other day aside from the mandarin who eats twice a day out of a shot glass a mix of foods, pellets, mysis, and formula one flake.
The only reasonable deduction I can make is that the rock must be leaching the nitrate, and for what ever reason the zeo isn't keeping up. Perhaps time is needed.
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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Alright folks, I'm starting to question my salifert kit for N03 it keeps testing out at 25ppm, irrespective of water changes, skimming, carbon dosing via zeovit or activated carbon. Here is my test result battery this weekend.

No3 salifert -25
No3 api - 5
Phosphorus - 0 Hanna ULR
Po4 -0 salifert low range
Ph 7.7 salifert
Dkh 8.7 salifert
Ca 490 salifert
Mg 750 salifert

I'm not sure wether to interpret the N03 results as the salifert is inaccurate or the api. I will retest with both kits in the morning.

I'm also surprised that the Mg fell that much in a week. I'll test again tomorrow for that too and dose accordingly

I find the 0 values for both low range phosphate and phosphorus curious. I would think I would at least get a minimal reading. I've tested those twice this week with the same results.

I have basically no algae what so ever aside from some slight diatoms and one patch of cyano in a low flow area. Which is what I would expect taking my results into account.

I'll test for I2, K, and Fe tomorrow just to see. I don't expect anything spectacular here as I don't have much in the tank to deplete these significantly. Also this week I plan to start daily testing for Ca, Alk, and Mg so I can begin dosing those if necessary.

I took a few pictures with the dslr which I'll start editing and uploading tonight but for now some crappy iPhone pictures will have to suffice.













 
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gettaReef

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What type of tests do you use for Fe, I2, and Fe? Salifert? That n03 reading is odd....maybe get a different type of kit to test or a LFS or friend
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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What type of tests do you use for Fe, I2, and Fe? Salifert? That n03 reading is odd....maybe get a different type of kit to test or a LFS or friend

They are all Red Sea, I wasn't able to find kits for those from salifert.

Part of the reason the N03 puzzles me is that for the past 3 days I was doing 30% water changes thinking my N03 was elevated. No change 3 days running with the salifert test. Based on my math it should have come down to at least 10 ish based on the waterchanges.
 

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The sump is to die for. !!

I find it very hard to believe your mag came down that much.

Test the No3 for your replacement water?
 
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squirrelieygrrrl

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The sump is to die for. !!

I find it very hard to believe your mag came down that much.

Test the No3 for your replacement water?

Thanks! I'm really pleased with how it turned out!

I do too, doesn't seem accurate. I'll post my results from tomorrow.

That's part of the plan for tomorrow, test with both kits on tank and fresh mixed saltwater.
 

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