For those who use stock tank sumps I have a few questions. I am thinking about switching over to a 50g stock tank sump for my 81g reef tank. The sump is in the basement under the tank so no need to worry about space. How are you attaching things like ATO sensors, probes, dosing lines, drain lines to the stock tank? Do you use any kind of basket or screen for your return pump or fuge area (if you have one) to help prevent the return pump from clogging? Pictures are great to! TIA!
Stock tank sump
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Bump for the OP!
littlefoxx
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Ill bump for you, I have no idea. My 300 runs with a 60 gallon sump under it (in the stand) and is super basic with the return pumps. No ato or anything, just the skimmer, UV and media. I wouldnt even know where to start with that project!
I use these magnetic thingies for holding my pH probe and dosing lines - works great!
www.bulkreefsupply.com
www.bulkreefsupply.com
MPO Duo - Magnetic Probe Organizer
Secure, Rust-Free, and Designed for Modern Water Monitoring Magnetically Attached, Two-Probe Organizer Compatible with All Major Aquarium Controllers Holds Two Standard-Sized Probes for pH, ORP, Salinity, Temperature, etc. Includes Two Guide Tubes for Automated Testing Systems Patent-Pending...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
MTO - Magnetic Tubing Organizer
Keep Your Dosing & Testing Lines Neat and Secure Organizes Dosing & Testing Tubes for a Cleaner Setup Holds Five 1/4" Tubes & Two 3/8" Tubes Includes Two Guide Tubes for Automated Testing Systems Double-Sealed, Ultrasonically Welded ModMag Magnets Patent-Pending Slide-Loc® System – No...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
Might I recommend adding conical bottomed tank as a “swirl filter” to the sump inlet as your mechanical filtration?
— I’m actually testing one of my own design with incredible results, so far!
— I’m actually testing one of my own design with incredible results, so far!
I actually found an old post here on R2R (which sadly never got answered) when looking for good example diagrams!
— this excellent set of diagrams actually shows the difference between radial flow, and swirl filter designs in a conical bottom tank!
radial flow or swirl filter with bean animal overflow?
Im looking into mechanical filtration for my 700 gallon build. I have had good experience with a diy swirl filter in my outdoor koi pond and wanted to try and integrate this type of filtration into my 200 gallon sump. However, I would also really like to use a bean animal type overflow to reduce...
www.reef2reef.com
I used a 50gal rubbermaid stock tank as a sump for quite a while. I built a "tower" that held my filter floss for mechanical filtration that sat on a drip plate. Then I loaded the tower with rock rubble and bio media to act as a high oxygen biofilter area. As for ATO, I made an acrylic pump box. With my return pump inside the box, it acted as an overflow but also kept the water level inside the rest of the stock tank constant. This allowed me to run a regular ATO and gave me a nice area to dose into. Check out my build thread for pictures.
Edit: Actually, I went through and there isn't good pictures of either in my thread. Check out my write up on working with PVC to check out the filter tower I made. I'll try to find a picture of my pump chamber I built and post that for you too.
PVC filter tower build
Edit: Actually, I went through and there isn't good pictures of either in my thread. Check out my write up on working with PVC to check out the filter tower I made. I'll try to find a picture of my pump chamber I built and post that for you too.
PVC filter tower build
Last edited:
Glass box, instead of acrylic?
Thanks! I like that idea, I'm guessing the water level in that pump box is lower then the rest of the stock tank correct? And the ato keeps it steady there. I thought about doing something like that as well or just letting the ato regulate the level of the whole stock tank, but maybe that's a bad idea? I'm not planning to us a lot for mechanical filtration, I will have a large refugium where the water enters the stock tank. I may add a filter roller later if needed. Thanks for all the info!Here are a few pictures of my pump chamber. The rock is there because it always wanted to float without a little weight. I don’t really have a solution for that though.. maybe rigid plumbing the pump would hold it down.
Possibly, but it becomes much more difficult to keep bubbles from getting into the pump. I notched the sides of the box specifically to keep the water from creating bubbles directly next to the intake.
Yes, the box itself is slightly lower water level than the rest and the ATO then keeps that level. Essentially just acting as the pump chamber in a traditional sump. An ATO to fill the whole stock tank isn't the best idea because it introduces a very large salinity swing due to more than a few gallons of evaporation before triggering most float valves and even most optical sensors. Not only that but I'd be worried about tripping the safety timers on most ATO's.
Interesting point! While it is possible to cut weir teeth in glass, it requires special tools…
An easier bet would be siliconing a plastic weir on top of a glass box, or simply welding acrylic tabs to the exterior of the existing box to zip tie it down to submerged rocks!
X-37B
Fight The Good Fight
On my old 120 I ran a 40 breeder with no baffles for the sump.
7" sock ring attatches to the side.
Ato is magnetic. Same with probe holders.
I ran a calcium reactor, media reactor, skimmer, and return.
On my 45 frag system I also ran a 40 breeder. Return pump, ato, skimmer, 4" sock ring, powerhead, and fuge separated by eggcrate.
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