Structural thoughts on custom stand

[FreakPrism]

Hey fellow reefers.

Currently building a custom 0.75 in red oak plywood stand for a Seapora 65g tank. Width is 36in, depth 18in and height 41in. I want it tall this time.

Will be screwing the panels using kreg pocket screws. Below pics are not screwed. I got the biggest sump I could find . Each side is a full piece with the square cut out using a jigsaw and sanded. Will route the edges once figure out how to use.

Thoughts? Side access is to slide the sump in and easy access to socks.

 

[Sierra_Bravo]

Personally, I'm not liking it without some type of corner bracing for rigidity and something to support the front span. My guess is that the front left corner will warp with weight on it as well.

 

[FreakPrism]

Yeah. Although the first few pictures are not showing the front piece which is shown in the 3rd pic. So each side will have a piece bound together with a top piece.

 

[FreakPrism]

Without screws or glue...

 

[Sierra_Bravo]

Ah, so the front piece is permanently attached and you don't remove it?

 

[FreakPrism]

Yes all pieces will be screwed together with pocket screws. Hopefully get it done today. Then make doors for front and side.

 

[Saltyreef]

+1 I'd add some bracing to the inside. Especially across the top and down the sides where the weight of the tank is being supported.

 

[JMAwoodworks]

I build custom stands and I wouldn't trust it. You need to put some kind framing on the inside. This is a picture of how I do it.

 

[Bret]

Looks pretty good!
I would suggest just a couple additions:
Glue all your Kreg joints if you are not already. Screws alone will allow for some wiggle between the joined pieces, the glue will fully lock it together.
Add a support piece along the interior top and bottom perimeters. Something like a 1x2 screwed in place would add significant strength.

 

[homer1475]

My current 80G cube stand is built just like the OP(although it's MDF and falling apart), and I planned on building my new stand just the same.

Its only 3 3/4" MDF panels for the sides and back, 2 1" MDF panels for the top, and 2 doors. Those cheap turn lock screws hold the whole thing together. Surprisingly it's stable as heck. Planned on building the new stand the same way with marine grade ply.

 

[FreakPrism]

It's funny I planned to use glue and then forgot about it once I used 2 90s to hold the join. With the screws it is solid and no play at all. I figure once all sides are screwed and top it should be solid.

I agree will add top brace and maybe on the bottom. To be honest though, my previous 46g bowflex stand I bought from bigal had less material and held up for 10 years.

.

 

[FreakPrism]

This was my old tank 46g stand I got from bigal. All MDF. Did fine for 10 years before I sold it...

But my new stand is taller than this so once all assembled will see what bracing provides some additional support.

 

[JoshH]

It's funny I planned to use glue and then forgot about it once I used 2 90s to hold the join. With the screws it is solid and no play at all. I figure once all sides are screwed and top it should be solid.

I agree will add top brace and maybe on the bottom. To be honest though, my previous 46g bowflex stand I bought from bigal had less material and held up for 10 years.

.

While I would personally take it apart and glue all the joints, I would say you're just fine the way it is, maybe a brace or two front to back but in reality it's a framed tank so all the weight is going on the outside edges. I wouldn't worry about it myself.

 

[FreakPrism]

All sides screwed. Now to apply moldings to the front and add doors.

 

[sharpimage]

Thats fine. It isn't going anywhere. Can you get the sump out, if needed? I would make the holes bigger so you could

 

[FreakPrism]

Thats fine. It isn't going anywhere. Can you get the sump out, if needed? I would make the holes bigger so you could

Yes. I bough a Trigger Systems Emerald 34 which is 15" depth. I made the hole 15.25" and it fit (I tried it ). I just have it stored elsewhere to prime and paint the inside.

I wasn't planning on a side door but having one now, I would recommend everyone to plan a side door. It makes access so much easier, even if your sump fits from the front.

 

[Apotack]

I would absolutely glue the joints and would put the pocket holes on the inside

 

[FreakPrism]

I would absolutely glue the joints and would put the pocket holes on the inside

I was going to put the pocket holes inside but on the Internet I found folks saying it is stronger outside as the screw goes into the "meat". From inside it would hang on the end of the board. To be honest not sure but I will be hiding all the holes with trim. The good thing about being outside is less exposure from the salt water in the sump although I did get stainless steel screws.

I was planning to glue but forgot. Honestly with the panels forming a box it is quite strong and not sure glue would add that much more. Also in the future will be easier to disassemble.

 

[ThePlummer]

All sides screwed. Now to apply moldings to the front and add doors.

I don't see any cleats in this stand.... I doubt just screwing into the grain end of the plywood will give you the strength you need. wood won't hold screws very well from the end.

You can take some 2x2 lumber and rip it on a 45 and place the right angle in the corner with construction adhesive and screws, you might be ok then.

 

[Apotack]

I was going to put the pocket holes inside but on the Internet I found folks saying it is stronger outside as the screw goes into the "meat". From inside it would hang on the end of the board. To be honest not sure but I will be hiding all the holes with trim. The good thing about being outside is less exposure from the salt water in the sump although I did get stainless steel screws.

I was planning to glue but forgot. Honestly with the panels forming a box it is quite strong and not sure glue would add that much more. Also in the future will be easier to disassemble.

You would be surprised at how much strength glue adds. especially once the wood moves from changes in temperature and humidity. Tight joints can open up.