Stubbs Elos 120XL Build in Malaysia

markstubb

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Not sure where to start so I'm just going to dive in. Back in June, my wife and I decided to take a job in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia for a 2 to 3 year assignment. Knowing I wouldn't be able to bring really all of my serious hobbies here (mostly woodworking and a few other things), I decided the one thing I wanted to do was to get a larger tank and build a reef. It occurred to me that fish and corals may be less expensive here, but I also realized that the technology would either be very expensive, or just hard/impossible to get.

Seems I was right on both counts.

I currently had an IM Nuvo 20 gal with a rear sump and had tricked it out with an apex, radion XR15 Pro Gen3, AWC, some custom ATO and NSW tanks from @melev, among a bunch of other fun stuff. Had some issues here and there with it, but it was mostly a successful tank for a few years. I even learned the importance of quarantining during this time. All in all, it was a fun first reef tank. I even was able to grow out some SPS in it. Tried to find a FTS of it from before I took it down but can't seem to find it. Doesn't matter. Imagine a blue cast picture with rocks, fish, and coral and you got the idea.

So I found a used Elos 120XL from a previous shop owner and plunked down the cash for it. Hired a LFS to come out and help me move it as it was cheaper to hire them than to buy a set of suction cups :D

Here she sits right after I picked her up. Made a pallet for it to go into the container. Later found out that the moving company would have done this for me, but oh well.
As the tank came with the Elos stand already, I now had to go out and buy everything else. The sump was the first thing on the list.

So, I had been reading through @d2mini's tank build thread for many months and really liked how Dennis did things, and the way he thought things through. Mostly it stemmed from the fact I always wanted an Elos tank as getting one from Felix is dang near impossible under any sort of uncertain timeline. So, what you'll see that follows is largely based on Dennis' work and I stole a whole bunch of his ideas, and come up with some others on my own. Dennis - you didn't know you inspired my entire build, but kudos to you right up front!

I knew I wanted to keep things simple. I had used a turf scrubber before in my Nuvo, but didn't want to go that route again. There's some things about scrubbers that disenchanted me, so I figured a bog standard Berlin type sump is really what I wanted, as well as a refugium. So I called up Jeff at LifeReef and asked him what his waiting period was like as I had a few months before we were moving. Turns out that Jeff had his prototype Signature Series sump sitting in the corner and he had never gotten around to selling it. We did some measurements and sure has heck, it was literally exactly what I would have ordered. Happy coincidence that it matches Dennis' sump, but worked for me! As I already had a good sized custom ATO reservoir from Marc at Melev's Reef, I had Jeff custom make me a LifeReefugium to fit the space I had and it turned out perfect.
One of the more interesting things about my tank is I'll be running dual voltages. I already had a lot of 120v things from my Nuvo, but power here is 3phase, so everything is 220v. Most all of my "new" purchases were based on DC type systems that could run at either 120v or 220v. Some things I couldn't purchase as 220v before I left the states, though, so those will be on my voltage converter with other existing equipment.

Equipment List
Elos 120XL with Elos Stand (this is the non-"quiet drain" model)
LifeReef CLF2 Prototype Sump in green/black/clear signature style
LifeReefugium in green/black/clear signature style
LifeReef SVS3-24 skimmer in green/black/clear signature style
2 Maxspect Gyre XF250
Apex 2016, EB832, EB6, EB8, ATK, VDM, WXM, ALD, FMM (2", 2 x 1/2", 3 x 1/4"), LSM, AFS, DOS, PM1, PM2, custom BoB, and probably some others I'm forgetting
IceCap Apex VDM interface for the Gyres
IceCap backup batteries for the Gyres
3 Reef Octopus Varios6 (Skimmer, Return, and Fuge/Reactors)
1 Reef Octopus Varios4 (Mixing Station)
Radion G3 XR15 Pro
2 GHL Mitras LX7206 with mounts
Artfully Acrylic custom screen
Melev's Reef custom ATO container
Custom acrylic boxes for mixing station
4 stage RO - Spectrapure 90GPD CSPDI with booster pump and auto-flush
Seneye Reef and SWS
Ecotech MP10qd
Ecotech MP40qd
UFO LED Grow Light for the fuge
Vertex RX-C 6D CaRx
Kamoer FX-STP CaRx doser pump
Carbon Doser Electronic CO2 regulator
Reef Octopus 4" skimmate waste collector
Alkatronic
Teco TK1000 Chiller


I'm planning to subscribe to some of the Aquaforest system as it seems readily available here.

That's it for my first post. I've gotten a lot done over the past month and a half and as I type it up, I'll share it.
 
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markstubb

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First quick question - anyone ever use the non freshwater XR15 for a fuge light? I have this thing sitting here doing nothing, so I was thinking it may not be a bad fuge light to compete with the Mitras. Otherwise, I have one of those cheap Amazon UFO LED grow lights I could use instead.
 

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First quick question - anyone ever use the non freshwater XR15 for a fuge light? I have this thing sitting here doing nothing, so I was thinking it may not be a bad fuge light to compete with the Mitras. Otherwise, I have one of those cheap Amazon UFO LED grow lights I could use instead.
You likely won't get enough of the right spectrum for the macros. That lamp has too much power (and LEDs) dedicated to blue channels.
Stick with the amazon led grow lights.

And good deal on that sump! Lucky! :)
 
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Thanks Dennis. You confirmed what I was thinking, but I was like - I have this light sitting here doing nothing so I might have tried it. I'll just stick with the 110v grow lamp and see how it does. I still haven't figured out where to get macro here in KL, but that's a bit down the road at the moment so I'll figure it out eventually!

Again, thanks for posting - a lot of what I'm doing with this build is directly related to what you've done. I've considered your success in this hobby as inspiration to what I'm planning to do and am looking forward to a successful tank! If they only had TBS here, I may have even copied you on that, too!
 
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So the first thing I had to do was get everything unpacked from the shipping container and organized.
First, I put the stand in place.
Next, I put in the custom PVC tray I had made when I was in Atlanta. We didn't have a house decided upon before I left, and I wasn't sure exactly what type of flooring the tank would sit on. Since we're renting (this will come up often during the build and the choices I made), I didn't want to have damaged flooring due to leaks or spills. Turns out the floor is on tile so it's not a huge deal, but I have the tray so I'm using it!
 
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I should have mentioned this earlier in the timeline, but I did most of the following work before the tank showed up. Took two months for the boat to get here with our container.

First thing I wanted to accomplish was a water change and mixing station. Apparently this is a completely wild concept in Malaysia. Most of the shops I went to gave me blank stares when I asked how to get custom acrylic boxes made for a mixing station. I think most folks here doing things as basic as possible, to limit cost and such. Since I'm semi-retired right now due to the move (still need to find a job, but enjoying the time off), I had plenty of time to get things figured out.

The first issue I had was finding barbed fittings here. You'd think it'd be easy, but no one uses them here, so I'd either have to get them shipped in or hard plumb everything. As you'll notice, I used a combination of quick connect garden hose connections and hard plumbing.

First thing I did was find some type of outdoor storage box. You wouldn't believe what they charge you for something like this here. I paid a stupid amount of money for a lifetime storage box. It's located directly on the other side of the aquarium, outside. The walls here on all the houses are solid concrete and block, so drilling the wall is going to be interesting. Should be easy to patch when we move out, though.
Next, I had to figure out a way to get a water supply. Around the corner from the storage box is our pool and a garden faucet.
Next I needed to dig a trench for a drain. There's a floor drain in the yard that I planned to just drop a PVC pipe on top of.
I had some custom made containers done by a sign shop here. They turned out really well and the price wasn't bad at all, considering what custom boxes cost in the States. Used 10mm cell cast acrylic.
They're quite thick and sturdy, so I'm pretty happy with them.
 
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markstubb

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So here's what the mixing station ended up looking like. I originally bought a locally source 4000L/hr pump (about 1000GPH) to run the station but the barbed fittings on it left me perplexed. I could NOT find a local source of tubing, they were different sizes for input and output, and I can't seem to locate any reasonably sized barbed fittings in this country anywhere. Getting more and more ticked off by the day, I just said screw it and bought another Varios4 pump for the station and hard plumbed it. It's connected with unions (it came with the ones it needs right off the bat anyway, which is a bonus). I also figured that it would be good to have a "spare" varios pump laying around in the event one of my main 3 Varios6's took a dump, but after I bought it, I realized the fittings are different on the output side of the 4's verses the 6's. Doesn't matter, and I can't return it anyway. Worse come worse, I know where to buy a Varios6 locally, even though it's about $100 USD more expensive here than in the States. Plus, I already have 3 Varios6's, so if my return craps out, I'll swap it out for either the skimmer or reactor/fuge pumps. I figure my order of priority is 1) return; 2) reactor/fuge; and 3) skimmer. So if I have 2 pumps die on me, I'll still have my return going and I will just find a new pump locally.

I have the drain and a garden hose coming in underground from the trench into the back of the mixing storage box. The drain is used for both RO waste water, waste water from the tank during water changes, as well as the AWC "old" water drain.
Top view of the station and my RO situation
View of all of the valves
As far as the valves are concerned, I wanted to make water changes as reasonably easy as possible, and since I'm renting, there's only so much I can do other than 1/4" RO tubing and AWC (Which I plan on doing, anyway). No real way for me to get large diameter tubing into the house other than drilling a big butt hole in the wall, which I'm trying to avoid. Many small holes is probably OK, so that's the game plan.

The way the valves work is as such.

1. I can easily move water between the RO container and the NSW container with the left blue outside valve and the highest blue valve that goes into the NSW container.
2. Shut the left outside blue valve and open the right blue valve and I can now mix/aerate the NSW water.
3. The two red valves and the bottom middle blue valve control the ability to pump water both FROM and TO the tank, as well as to the drain I installed in the trench. The way the valves are configured, I can:
- pump from either the RO or NSW tank TO the tank
- suck water from the tank, through the mixing station pump, and down the wastewater drain.
- Empty the NSW or RO water to the drain (if I have to empty the containers for some reason).

I figured by adding 3 more valves ($15USD), and a bit of pipes, having all of that additional functionality would be awesome. Forget carrying buckets!!!

The quick connection for the RV drinking-safe hose is underneath the drain and garden hose lines. Looks blue and yellow and is just sticking out there. I need to add the appropriate quick connect to the RV drinking hose, but I'm not ready for that yet and it's a 5 min job. Just trying to avoid cutting off the brass fitting, which honestly probably isn't a bad idea, anyway. I plan on making a fitting like this to make life easier. Not sure how to measure the depth yet so it will start sucking air when the tank has reached an appropriate level. Will figure that out later manually.
redonewaterchangehook.jpg
By the way, the RO and NSW containers are 52cm(L) x 52cm(w) x 56cm(h), which is around 150L filled near the top, so about 40 gallons each.

Tank, sump, and fuge are probably 140-150 gallons, so I should be able to manage a 20-25% water change pretty easily.
 
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markstubb

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Another issue is while the volume of water coming to the house is great, the pressure sorta sucks. It's around 40PSI. I inquired about getting a pressure booster pump at a few of the local reef shops but every single one was like "why would you need that, we have great water pressure everywhere!"

Well, I need it because I don't have great water pressure. We live in a sort of suburb in KL, and our house is high up a hill, so I guess that is why my pressure blows. I'll have to order one from BRS and pick it up when we're back in the States for the holidays.

The "good" side of things is water is stupid cheap here. For some reason, there's a federal credit on the monthly water bill, which is like 10 Ringits (about $2.50 USD), and the normal water bill is about 12.50 Ringits. Sooo.. at the end of the day I pay about RN2.50 a month for water which is like .60 USD. Stupid cheap. That being said, I don't like seeing all of the RO waste water going down the drain, so a booster it is. Plus it'll be faster to make water and keep those RO membranes happy.
 

d2mini

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Awesome job on that mixing station. Great use of space!
I have the exact same water pressure according to the gauge on my RODI. 35-40 psi.
Booster pump arriving tomorrow finally. :)
 
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Thanks Dennis! I wish I could have found a larger shed type thing but the selection here is quite limited. The box is supposedly 160 gallons, but doing the math, I don't see how you'd ever get more than 120 out of the thing if it was completely full. I think it'll get the job done though! Looking forward to using it. Ran electrical to it today, just need to run some RO tubing to it for AWC and filling up my RO reservoir inside.
 
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Got my water bill today. It was -2.98. They actually owe me money. Cracks me up
 
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So next thing on my list was to get working under the tank. The first thing I needed to figure out was what to do with all of my electronics. I decided early on to keep all high voltage, as best as I could, outside of the tank. 120v and water is scary enough, 240v and I just want to avoid all that.

First thing I did was find these cool fold down brackets for mounting a board under a cabinet to hold a book or ipad while cooking. Knape & Vogt makes them and they call them pull down rack hinges (like this)

Then I picked up a wide white solid shelf from Ikea (not exactly a ton of wood suppliers here due to cost) and made some blocks to space the board down as the hinges pulled up a bit too high to make any room for my apex brain to mount under there. The other thing I was trying to do was line it up with a horizontal support that runs the width of the tank, but is mounted vertically.

Here's the shelf operating. Pretty smooth, IMO
 
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Next I needed to figure out a light situation. While at Ikea, I found this cool lighting system called NORRFLY. It's activated when you open the doors and I'm not quite sure if it senses light or if it is an IR emitter and receiver that detects distance. I'm pretty sure it's the latter as sometimes when I move in front of the cabinet, the lights can flash on and off. Easily solved by the manual ON/OFF/Auto switch. It works well and lights up the sump and shelf very well.
how it works with two doors
 
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Mark Gray

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Not sure where to start so I'm just going to dive in. Back in June, my wife and I decided to take a job in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia for a 2 to 3 year assignment. Knowing I wouldn't be able to bring really all of my serious hobbies here (mostly woodworking and a few other things), I decided the one thing I wanted to do was to get a larger tank and build a reef. It occurred to me that fish and corals may be less expensive here, but I also realized that the technology would either be very expensive, or just hard/impossible to get.

Seems I was right on both counts.

I currently had an IM Nuvo 20 gal with a rear sump and had tricked it out with an apex, radion XR15 Pro Gen3, AWC, some custom ATO and NSW tanks from @melev, among a bunch of other fun stuff. Had some issues here and there with it, but it was mostly a successful tank for a few years. I even learned the importance of quarantining during this time. All in all, it was a fun first reef tank. I even was able to grow out some SPS in it. Tried to find a FTS of it from before I took it down but can't seem to find it. Doesn't matter. Imagine a blue cast picture with rocks, fish, and coral and you got the idea.

So I found a used Elos 120XL from a previous shop owner and plunked down the cash for it. Hired a LFS to come out and help me move it as it was cheaper to hire them than to buy a set of suction cups :D

Here she sits right after I picked her up. Made a pallet for it to go into the container. Later found out that the moving company would have done this for me, but oh well.
As the tank came with the Elos stand already, I now had to go out and buy everything else. The sump was the first thing on the list.

So, I had been reading through @d2mini's tank build thread for many months and really liked how Dennis did things, and the way he thought things through. Mostly it stemmed from the fact I always wanted an Elos tank as getting one from Felix is dang near impossible under any sort of uncertain timeline. So, what you'll see that follows is largely based on Dennis' work and I stole a whole bunch of his ideas, and come up with some others on my own. Dennis - you didn't know you inspired my entire build, but kudos to you right up front!

I knew I wanted to keep things simple. I had used a turf scrubber before in my Nuvo, but didn't want to go that route again. There's some things about scrubbers that disenchanted me, so I figured a bog standard Berlin type sump is really what I wanted, as well as a refugium. So I called up Jeff at LifeReef and asked him what his waiting period was like as I had a few months before we were moving. Turns out that Jeff had his prototype Signature Series sump sitting in the corner and he had never gotten around to selling it. We did some measurements and sure has heck, it was literally exactly what I would have ordered. Happy coincidence that it matches Dennis' sump, but worked for me! As I already had a good sized custom ATO reservoir from Marc at Melev's Reef, I had Jeff custom make me a LifeReefugium to fit the space I had and it turned out perfect.
One of the more interesting things about my tank is I'll be running dual voltages. I already had a lot of 120v things from my Nuvo, but power here is 3phase, so everything is 220v. Most all of my "new" purchases were based on DC type systems that could run at either 120v or 220v. Some things I couldn't purchase as 220v before I left the states, though, so those will be on my voltage converter with other existing equipment.

Equipment List
Elos 120XL with Elos Stand (this is the non-"quiet drain" model)
LifeReef CLF2 Prototype Sump in green/black/clear signature style
LifeReefugium in green/black/clear signature style
LifeReef SVS3-24 skimmer in green/black/clear signature style
2 Maxspect Gyre XF250
Apex 2016, EB832, EB6, EB8, ATK, VDM, WXM, ALD, FMM, LSM, AFS, DOS, and probably some others I'm forgetting
IceCap Apex VDM interface for the Gyres
IceCap backup batteries for the Gyres
3 Reef Octopus Varios6 (Skimmer, Return, and Fuge/Reactors)
1 Reef Octopus Varios4 (Mixing Station)
Radion G3 XR15 Pro
2 GHL Mitras LX7206 with mounts
Artfully Acrylic custom screen
Melev's Reef custom ATO container
Custom acrylic boxes for mixing station
4 stage RO - Spectrapure 90GPD CSPDI
Seneye Reef and SWS
Ecotech MP10
UFO LED Grow Light for the fuge


I'm planning to subscribe to some of the Aquaforest system as it seems readily available here.

That's it for my first post. I've gotten a lot done over the past month and a half and as I type it up, I'll share it.
Wow nice I have never been to Malaysia. you have I really nice list of equipment, I am curious about the ice cap gyre hook up to the apex when you have time would you mind telling me more about it
 
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markstubb

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Hi Mark (I'm a Mark as well)! Thanks! I bought the vast, vast majority of my gear before I left for Malaysia and had it all sent here with the rest of my stuff.

I currently have two XF250's in my tank with two of the appropriate ice cap gyre modules, as well as some backup batteries. I'll get into it at some point, but the way it works is pretty straight forward. You can either control forward only by using 1 of the Apex 0-10v ports (either on board the apex or on a VDM module), or you can control both forward and reverse by using 2 of the Apex ports (each RJ45 port controls two different 0-10v devices) with a special cable. The base IceCap module comes with a "forward only" cable that will control two separate modules as it is a single plug with two outputs.

I chose to get the forward/reverse cable as it was like 10 bucks (20 total for 2 of them) and had to buy a VDM anyway (I needed a minimum of 5 ports - 3 pump, 2 gyre) so I figured I'd go ahead and use all 4 ports on the VDM, and just use 3 on the Apex itself.

I control 3 pumps and 2 gyres using a total of 7 of the 8 available 0-10v ports on my apex and the VDM module. 3 ports for the Varios' and 2 ports for each of the 2 gyres.

I'll detail it a bit further in the future, but I honestly haven't set up the Apex to control them yet as I'm actually just now (literally today) putting water in the tank.
 
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So just to keep my act in gear, I got the tank wet today. Still making more RO to fill it up. Probably should have pumps running tomorrow night. Can't wait. Still tons to type up and talk about, just haven't gotten there.

@d2mini how do you determine the optimal height in the sump? Did you just go with the markings Jeff provided? I don't have any markings on mine as it's a "prototype" but I figure if I keep it under the spill over from the skimmer compartment to the return compartment, should be fine. I imagine that'll hold any water from a power outage, too. Something I will test.
 

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So just to keep my act in gear, I got the tank wet today. Still making more RO to fill it up. Probably should have pumps running tomorrow night. Can't wait. Still tons to type up and talk about, just haven't gotten there.

@d2mini how do you determine the optimal height in the sump? Did you just go with the markings Jeff provided? I don't have any markings on mine as it's a "prototype" but I figure if I keep it under the spill over from the skimmer compartment to the return compartment, should be fine. I imagine that'll hold any water from a power outage, too. Something I will test.
Yes, I generally go with his markings. But pay attention to how much it fills up when you lose power and the tank backfills into the sump.
Slap a piece of tape or mark it with a sharpie when you find a good spot.
 
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Thanks. I read through his documentation he sends but it wasn’t really applicable to mine as it has no markings - but it does have a green “ruler” on the side. I figure the more flow I get the better and my Apex flow meters will tell the tale.
 

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