Currently I am using the Orbit Marine Pro Dual LEDs. My coral colors aren't the greatest, and coral is the reason I wanted to get into the hobby. I know the lights are underpowered, but they came with the setup when I purchased it. I have a 48X24X24 aquarium. I was told that If I did not want to do a total LED replacement at the moment, I could supplement my current light by adding a T5HO fixture. I have been looking at a Coralife aqualight HO dual lamp fixture. Would this be a good supplemental light, or should I just hold off and purchase an all new LED set down the road? I have read up on MHs, but with not wanting to hang anything from the ceiling, they are pretty much out of the picture. Any information is appreciated! Thanks!
Supplemental lighting
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ndrwater
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T5 are indeed a great option. Being an all LED guy, I am hoping a few others would chime in.
What I DO know is that many a reefer running T5's over their reef, especially on a 24" wide tank, run 6-8 T5 bulbs in a combination of various colors to get the PAR and color spectrum not only desirable to the eye, but also benificial to the corals
What I DO know is that many a reefer running T5's over their reef, especially on a 24" wide tank, run 6-8 T5 bulbs in a combination of various colors to get the PAR and color spectrum not only desirable to the eye, but also benificial to the corals
Even if you get some T5s, you can use them in the future too. A purchase like an Aquatic Life hybrid unit could add T5s for use now and later. If you are going to run LEDs as well, then 2 or 4 bulbs can work with more bulbs for higher light stuff.
Not all T5 units are equal... some have better ballasts and reflectors and have a significantly larger amount of output. If you have a hood, then a LET retrofit kit can work since they are reasonably priced and perform well... just need a place to mount it.
Not all T5 units are equal... some have better ballasts and reflectors and have a significantly larger amount of output. If you have a hood, then a LET retrofit kit can work since they are reasonably priced and perform well... just need a place to mount it.
ndrwater
2500 Club Member
When referring to "pop" usually, but not always, it's LED supplying that pop. T5 in the correct color spectrum can and do make corals look awesome, but if you go to your LFS (local fish store) and see amazing colors from corals, it's probably due to a blue LED at least supplimenting another light source.
You really have to decide A) what direction you want to go coral wise, and then B) decide on a budget for the appropriate lighting.
There is no one difinitive answer. Just as many people have amazing tanks running LED, T5, Halide, or some combination of any or all if the above
You really have to decide A) what direction you want to go coral wise, and then B) decide on a budget for the appropriate lighting.
There is no one difinitive answer. Just as many people have amazing tanks running LED, T5, Halide, or some combination of any or all if the above
ndrwater
2500 Club Member
And to directly answer your question after my long winded and vague answer above, T5 supplimented with Blue LED will get you where (I think) you want to be. Probably also most reasonable on the pocket book.
T-5unsystem
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I think adding some T5s would be excellent. I am bias of course, but there are loads of reports of LED users having great responses from corals when adding T5 to LED setups.
NS Mike D
In the arena.
^^^ This. Lights have two purposes. One is for the corals (zooxanthellae doing photosynthesis, and the natural defense making colors) and the second is what we see. White LEDS can result in healthy corals (how do you know your lights are under powered - did you measure with a par meter?) but the blend of spectrums lack the pop we see (even if it;s there).
@Dana Riddle has some great posts here on spectrum, par etc. I suggest reading to help you decide what to do.
I am biased, but if it where me, I would scrap the LEDs and just get a 6 or 8 bulb T5 fixtures. However, if you want to keep the LEDs, then get 2 bulb retrofit kit if you have a hood. See if you like it in a few months and you can always add another.
Generally speaking, you need to get color in coral and then illuminate them. Best color rendering usually happens under daylight (6500k ish) and illumination is whatever you prefer (most people like it blue in the 20k+ range). You really need both to make corals pop... with just blue LEDs, the coral grown under a wider spectrum will lose color and pop less they longer that they are away. The good thing with mercury-based light sources is that most are full spectrum and can help to color coral... and some make them pop too.
Generally speaking, you need to get color in coral and then illuminate them. Best color rendering usually happens under daylight (6500k ish) and illumination is whatever you prefer (most people like it blue in the 20k+ range). You really need both to make corals pop... with just blue LEDs, the coral grown under a wider spectrum will lose color and pop less they longer that they are away. The good thing with mercury-based light sources is that most are full spectrum and can help to color coral... and some make them pop too.
Rodey09
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I have not measured with a PAR meter, but almost every forum I have read regarding the Orbit Marines state that they are underpowered for a 24 in depth. Again, I have not tested and am still learning. I will read up on Dana Riddle. Thanks!
Bayareareefer18
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Depends on what type of coral you have as well.
I am running the current ic pros (dual 48") tank is all LPS and doing quite well.
Being my first build I didn't want to go crazy with lighting until I see how things went. I am supplementing the ic pros with an orphek or120 bar. The bar is UV so it's more for pop than for par.
If I had to do my lighting over again, and will at some point in the future, I would go T5 hybrid.
As others have suggested you could go with the aquatic life fixture and still run your LEDs with it then call always retain the use of the t5s if you ever upgrade the LEDs in the future
Rodey09
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Yah, I'm going to keep researching. I too would like the hybrid fixture, and may go that route in the future. Currently I have a couple zoas, some candy cane coral, and a toadstool. Nothing too crazy, but they look so bland.
NS Mike D
In the arena.
well lets take the guessing and heresay out of the equation, here you go (most light manufacturers publish their par mappings online these days). the first six inches is more than enough par for sps. directly under the lights at 12" is 300 par which is a lot of light. shade loving corals like acans zoas etc will do fine at 24"
https://current-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Orbit_Marine_Light_Specifications.pdf
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NS Mike D
In the arena.
here are your spectrums
https://current-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Orbit-Marine-Pro-Sales-SheetV2.pdf
I'll look for the spectrums dana riddle recomemds
LED's give us great control to customize our lights, but that also comes with a lot of hit and miss and can overwhelm the aquarists.
T5's are proven which make them fool proof and the addition of running blue/violet leds with them can really make corals pop
https://current-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Orbit-Marine-Pro-Sales-SheetV2.pdf
I'll look for the spectrums dana riddle recomemds
LED's give us great control to customize our lights, but that also comes with a lot of hit and miss and can overwhelm the aquarists.
T5's are proven which make them fool proof and the addition of running blue/violet leds with them can really make corals pop
Rodey09
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I think it may be easier for me at this point in time to run with T5s. I did notice that a couple of the individual LEDs are not functional. Not sure how detrimental that could be, but I'm worried that others may follow suit. Maybe I'll just purchase a 4 or 6 bulb fixture and run that for a bit. Take some of the guessing game out of the equation. I can always go back to LED once I have a little more experience with everything. Thanks again for your input!
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