Switching from RedSea Reef Complete

[CodyF.]

Hello all,

I’m looking to replace RedSea 4part, Red Sea coral care. It’s becoming too expensive!! I have a 50gallons-sps dominated-and a 15gallon, mixed, both running coral care.

I struggle to keep my calcium up on the 50. It runs around 380 with my Alk at 7.7-8.3.

I’ve used AFR for a bit on my 15, but switched to RedSea a while ago.

I’m thinking about trying out either Aquaforest 1,2,3 or B-Ionic 2 part. My concern is a PH drop, RedSea has a PH buffer, and just the change in general.

Anyone else made this switch? How did the corals hold up?

View attachment 20251114_213041_6DFC98A4-81DD-4CA8-B621-D8ED0DE62824.mov



View attachment 20251114_213112_BF81F9D0-7375-4B40-9431-E81900BABE8B.mov

These are the two tanks.

 

[rishma]

I have not made this particular switch but have changed supplement methods and never had an issue. I personally don’t think switching is a risk if you determine the equivalent dose.

Regarding the calcium level…I find calcium tests at home can be inaccurate or imprecise and basing dosing in calcium tests can be problematic. I like to rely on alkalinity tests and dose the balancing calcium level if dosing separately. Systems designed for 1:1 calcium and alkalinity doses are generally reliable. Calcium and alkalinity are consumed in proportion to each other except in unusual circumstances.

 

[CodyF.]

Thanks for the input! It’s good to hear there’s been no negative in your experience.

RedSea wants to base its dosages off calcium. (Not really a fan of that honestly) it only takes calcium into account and adjust all other elements based on that reading.

 

[Reef Jedi]

Curious, why not switch to a standard 2 part? It is cheaper and if using soda ash, you’ll get a good ph boost.

 

[Naekuh]

I thought AFR was the thing everything switched after using everything else, but your saying you went the other way around?

 

[rishma]

Thanks for the input! It’s good to hear there’s been no negative in your experience.

RedSea wants to base its dosages off calcium. (Not really a fan of that honestly) it only takes calcium into account and adjust all other elements based on that reading.

There are several companies that suggest dosing based on calcium, which is good in theory, but not very practical with home calcium tests. Alkalinity tests are more precise, and the relationship between calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium consumption are known.

 

[rtparty]

NYOS

Their new 2 part system is a great price, way cheaper than Red Sea, and infinitely cleaner

 

[ReneReef]

Regarding pricing, an example to show there are huge differences:

Because of fancy looking packaging and vague concentration promises on labels I calculate the cost per 1000 KH to compare additive systems.

Here in Europe, Red Sea Reef Care comes in at €4.25 to €5 per 1000 KH depending on packaging size. Making it the most expensive additive system available.

Out of the big brands ATI essentials is the cheapest at €0.99 per 1000KH for mixed reef and €1.11 per 1000 KH for SPS reef using the 2 and 2.7 Liter bottles. The 10.2 Liter bottles are even more cost effective.

Aquaforest is inconsistent about the concentration information of 1+2+3+ on their website.
Here they say the KH of their additive is 2600. Making it €4,61 per 1000 KH.
White over here they claim is to be five time more concentrated.
The say their product is bicarb based that would make the second option impossible….

Nyos comes in at €1.40 per 1000 KH using the 5 Liter jugs. Using the large powder packaging you would pay €1.16 per 1000 KH.

These are all European RRP. ATI is basically permanently on sale here making it even cheaper.

Of course prices will vary between the US and Europe, so your situation will be slightly different. And you have some brands over there that we don’t of which I don’t know the prise per KH.

 

[ReneReef]

As for switching, I share rishma’s experience. I’ve never had issue when switching.

Also, a lot of brands are soda ash based now. Triton, ATI essentials SPS, Nyos etc.
All are concentrated at or very near 10,000 KH. Making switching even easier.

I would choose a soda ash based product that is readily available near you at a good price. In my opinion that rules out Aquaforest.

Or go the DIY route.

 

[CodyF.]

NYOS

Their new 2 part system is a great price, way cheaper than Red Sea, and infinitely cleaner

I didn’t know about NYOS. I’ll have to check it out. Thanks!!

 

[CodyF.]

Regarding pricing, an example to show there are huge differences:

Because of fancy looking packaging and vague concentration promises on labels I calculate the cost per 1000 KH to compare additive systems.

Here in Europe, Red Sea Reef Care comes in at €4.25 to €5 per 1000 KH depending on packaging size. Making it the most expensive additive system available.

Out of the big brands ATI essentials is the cheapest at €0.99 per 1000KH for mixed reef and €1.11 per 1000 KH for SPS reef using the 2 and 2.7 Liter bottles. The 10.2 Liter bottles are even more cost effective.

Aquaforest is inconsistent about the concentration of the 1+2+3+ information on their website.
Here they say the KH of their additive is 2600. Making it €4,61 per 1000 KH.
White over here they claim is to be five time more concentrated.
The say their product is bicarb based that would make the second option impossible….

Nyos comes in at €1.40 per 1000 KH using the 5 Liter jugs. Using the large powder packaging you would pay €1.16 per 1000 KH.

These are all European RRP. ATI is basically permanently on sale here making it even cheaper.

Of course prices will vary between the US and Europe, so your situation will be slightly different. And you have some brands over there that we don’t of which I don’t know the prise per KH.

Thanks for the rundown!! When I first started the RedSea regiment the price wasn’t really a problem. I figured get the 180 gallon bottles and it would last a year. Now my corals are growing and I’m dumping 30+ mils a day. Which is starting to become expensive.

 

[CodyF.]

Is there any specific brand you guys would recommend? I’m looking for something that will also provide trace as well. (Kinda leaning to the B-Ionic)

 

[CodyF.]

Just did some reading on the NYOS 2part. Looks very alluring!

I’m not a huge ICP fan. Is it mandatory to run ICP? They mentioned mixing traces based on the results. Seems like you can either mix the trace in and dose, or run a separate doser and does based on ICP. Did I read and process that correctly?

Also, I’m curious about salinity drift…..? I find with RedSea my salinity creeps up and I really really don’t like that! Anyone running the NYOS 2 part, does this happen?

 

[rishma]

Is there any specific brand you guys would recommend? I’m looking for something that will also provide trace as well. (Kinda leaning to the B-Ionic)

ESV B-ionic is a good system

 

[rishma]

Just did some reading on the NYOS 2part. Looks very alluring!

I’m not a huge ICP fan. Is it mandatory to run ICP? They mentioned mixing traces based on the results. Seems like you can either mix the trace in and dose, or run a separate doser and does based on ICP. Did I read and process that correctly?

Also, I’m curious about salinity drift…..? I find with RedSea my salinity creeps up and I really really don’t like that! Anyone running the NYOS 2 part, does this happen?

I read about it too, looks like a good system. I was unclear how (or if) it manages ionic balance.

I don’t consider ICP is mandatory.

 

[CodyF.]

NYOS

Their new 2 part system is a great price, way cheaper than Red Sea, and infinitely cleaner

Just read a thread where you mentioned you switching to NYOS. Did you? Do you still run it? Do you still like it?

Assuming you can get it on BRS or Saltwater Aquarium .com?

Thanks for your input!!

 

[CodyF.]

Just did some reading on the NYOS 2part. Looks very alluring!

I’m not a huge ICP fan. Is it mandatory to run ICP? They mentioned mixing traces based on the results. Seems like you can either mix the trace in and dose, or run a separate doser and does based on ICP. Did I read and process that correctly?

Also, I’m curious about salinity drift…..? I find with RedSea my salinity creeps up and I really really don’t like that! Anyone running the NYOS 2 part, does this happen?

I read about it too, looks like a good system. I was unclear how (or if) it manages ionic balance.

I don’t consider ICP is mandatory.

NYOS says it does maintain ionic balance. Allegedly that’s what the B is for. (Maybe I miss understood that)

 

[CodyF.]

I thought AFR was the thing everything switched after using everything else, but your saying you went the other way around?

Sorry, just seen this.

Yes. On my nano. I went from AFR to RedSea coral care.

 

[CodyF.]

Curious, why not switch to a standard 2 part? It is cheaper and if using soda ash, you’ll get a good ph boost.

I’m looking for something with everything in it. (IE traces) something that will mix it all in a complete ratio-in theory. I don’t really run ICP.

Also, I’ve never used soda-ash. I’ve used calk for years, but it’s dirty!!! It’s hard on everything. So….. maybe that has me jaded..?

 

[sjfishguy]

Just use the basic BRS two part. To make it even cheaper you can use calcium chloride driveway salt. I have been doing that for 20 years in my Acro tanks. All you are paying for is the package with the others. Then add some brightwell replenish or something once a week for traces. I never understood why anyone uses these branded two parts

And this stuff is nothing like kalk. It’s exactly the same as what you are paying for in the bottle