T-slot stands... Who's got the best DIY thread?

clsanchez77 · Jul 18, 2017

btw, your avatar is killing me

fishbox · Jul 18, 2017

It's a lil methed up

clsanchez77 · Jul 18, 2017

My issue with the T-slots or 8020 is the costs escalate very quick. The profiles are cheap! But once you get into hardware, connectors and other parts, it adds up so fast. I am currently looking to build a custom outdoor cabinet so I can move my chiller outside. The cabinet is 18" long, 17" wide and 28" tall and is coming in around $685 in parts. Granted almost $100 is in service fees for cutting PVC panels so I may buy a sheet and do that myself. Even then, Im still just under $600.

I don't want to use wood for this purpose but I also don't want it to looked rigged either (cabinet will face my neighbors driveway), so my options are limited.

evolved · Jul 19, 2017

clsanchez77 said:
My issue with the T-slots or 8020 is the costs escalate very quick. The profiles are cheap! But once you get into hardware, connectors and other parts, it adds up so fast.

Yup! You can do amazing things with it and achieve a end result that wouldn't be possible with any other stand type, but it's not really a budget friendly approach.

drtrash · Jul 21, 2017

Does 8020 give you feedback on stress support? I see alot of different gusseted stands either using 45 deg support or angle bracket.

evolved · Jul 21, 2017

drtrash said:
Does 8020 give you feedback on stress support?

They will, but the one build I saw driven by their direction was incredibly overbuilt (and therefore significantly more expensive).

clsanchez77 · Jul 21, 2017

Maybe, maybe not. The cost is in the fittings, not the profiles. I see nothing wrong with oversizing the profiles, but there is little benefit in oversizing the connectors. If you think through it logically, your top beam will support the tank and this should sit ON TOP of the columns. This way, the connectors are only for stability, not strength. Same at the bottom. Sit the columns on TOP the bottom beams and the bottom beams will help spread the load; the connectors only need be for stability.

Now when you start putting your connections as moment or shear connectors, the connections get expensive.

In the case of my chiller cabinet example, its hanging from the soffit and in order to fit the panels, I had to go with gusset connections, which added up.

Btw, one thing that is way over thought of in DIY stands in this hobby is that the stand is supporting the tank and limiting deflection. This is not the case, not even close! In glass tanks, the glass is very stiff and controls deflection. In fact you cannot design a stand out of wood or aluminum and have it deflect less than the glass in the tanks. I have run the numbers and its not close. My point, is the load distribution from the aquarium to the stand is not uniform, but rather matches the deflection profile of the front and back glass acting as a beam. I don't have a computer model to prove it. However, if you go look at manufacturer stands, the front and back rim of the tank have nearly no support to speak of. Only the sides and about 6" of the front and back on each side.

If I were designed a new stand today, I would take this approach instead. The deflection calculations for a glass beam can be calculated straight forward, but I don't have the information on me at home. To be conservative, ignore the contributions from the bottom glass and any top bracing - they will contribute too.

evolved · Jul 21, 2017

I "think" this was the thread I had in mind with the overbuilt comment: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-nautilus-peninsula-aquarium.244273/#post-2869467

drtrash · Jul 21, 2017

What connectors do you recomend? Do the gussets attach the beams together? See pictures of anchors that look like they need a borehole. Is 8020 the place to go for all or piece out to other vendors? I am planning on overbuilt for the look and habit of ignorance. Sorta kidding

drtrash · Jul 21, 2017

Thanks evolved for reference, my overbuilt is 1530 frame and legs and 1515 base and cross supports. Want the big beam look that 2040 is too much and not sure that design is structurally balanced they way they are connected, should of placed one ontop of other for free load but i am no engineer. When do you need to go anchor route or is that standard?

evolved · Jul 22, 2017

drtrash said:
Is 8020 the place to go for all or piece out to other vendors?

Yes, they can supply all of that, including machining for the counter-bores.

drtrash said:
When do you need to go anchor route or is that standard?

It's not standard - nothing is with them. It's all custom order, whatever you order.
Now, are anchors better - for sure. But they're not absolutely necessary. If your hesitant on what you're doing - best to use them.

drtrash said:
but i am no engineer

(I happen to be, fwiw

)

drtrash · Jul 22, 2017

How is the best way to skin, lov you build how to attache side panels so they are removable? 8020 did not show much hardware options for that

clsanchez77 · Jul 22, 2017

drtrash said:
How is the best way to skin, lov you build how to attache side panels so they are removable? 8020 did not show much hardware options for that

There is a few options.
Panel Mount Blocks are installed on the inside of the frame and the panel would be mounted over the outside surface of the frame. Here is the block:
https://8020.net/shop/2427.html
Panel is removable but requires screws.

I prefer to have the panels installed within the slot - I think this is a better 8020 look. If you do this on the main frame, it is not removable. But if you build a second frame to sit inside the mainframe and install the panel on the second frame, it is removable. The second frame can be secured with gussets if access is rare, with hinges and a magnetic latch to act like a door, use lift off hinges to have it act like a removable door, or use all magnetic mounts so the inside frame is completely removable. The use of magnetic blocks requires a little more planning. If you use 2" on the main frame and 1" for the panel framing, the magnetic blocks will be very easy to accommodate. If I were building the stand, that would be my approach.

I don't think the 2"x4" is over kill. From a structural design stand point it totally is not needed. However, to look proportional to the tank, I think its reasonable. I would use 2"x members on the front frame to accommodate doors and what not, but use 1"x on the back. What you use on the sides would depend on whether you want removable doors/panels or not.

evolved · Jul 22, 2017

drtrash said:
how to attache side panels so they are removable? 8020 did not show much hardware options for that

I'm using their "lift off" hinges, so I can easily take a whole door off if it's ends up in the way for something. There's some detail on page 2 of my thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/w...eds-270g-peninsula.256483/page-2#post-3036548

clsanchez77 said:
I prefer to have the panels installed within the slot - I think this is a better 8020 look.

Agree - it's a cleaner look for sure.
I could have used the lift-off hinges and achieved the same idea - but the hinges themselves would have been visible on the exterior.

clsanchez77 · Aug 3, 2017

evolved said:
I'm using their "lift off" hinges, so I can easily take a whole door off if it's ends up in the way for something. There's some detail on page 2 of my thread: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/w...eds-270g-peninsula.256483/page-2#post-3036548

Agree - it's a cleaner look for sure.
I could have used the lift-off hinges and achieved the same idea - but the hinges themselves would have been visible on the exterior.

I am getting ready to build a 8020 chiller case and I decided to go with 1"x2" 8020 on one end so I can construct an inset frame and it will attach via magnets mounted to the inside frame. Completely removable with no hinges. I just need to figure out the air filter detail. Im removing the factor case and internal controls to locate the unit outside.

alex.mccann99 · Aug 3, 2017

fishbox said:
I'm a pretty handy guy I've built every stand that I've ever used underneath of tank. However I've never heard of this Tslot material and would love to learn more

I used black 10 series size. Used a jigsaw to cut the lengths I needed. It's very stable and I love how I can attach all kinds of equipment securely underneath. I have since bolted a BRS Doser underneath also next to the Reactor. I have also now wrapped the entire sides and front with acrylic. I used a magnet system to attach the acrylic.