Taller is better: Kev's 80g column
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Waters
"...in perfect isolation, here behind my wall."
Absolutely love everything you have done....aquascape looks perfect 
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Kevin Jaako
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Here's my quarantine tank– it's doing a great job of sprucing up my laundry room!
I had an extra Kessil a360we on-hand which is totally overkill for this little 20 gallon tank, but until it's needed on my DT, it can live here. I also had a few pieces of marco rock left over so I threw them in too. I much prefer the look of natural rock over using spare PVC fittings for hiding spots but it's obviously a lot more difficult to clean and sterilize, so we'll see if I end up keeping it– Clearly aesthetics aren't the primary goal of a quarantine tank
The tank is uncycled, so I'm checking ammonia regularly and staying on top of water changes. I waited a few days before dosing Cupramine just to let my new little friends relax a little and to make sure they were eating before I added any medication that might suppress their appetite.
My wife was a liiiittle surprised to learn that when I said we were getting a fish tank, I actually meant two
KJ
I had an extra Kessil a360we on-hand which is totally overkill for this little 20 gallon tank, but until it's needed on my DT, it can live here. I also had a few pieces of marco rock left over so I threw them in too. I much prefer the look of natural rock over using spare PVC fittings for hiding spots but it's obviously a lot more difficult to clean and sterilize, so we'll see if I end up keeping it– Clearly aesthetics aren't the primary goal of a quarantine tank
The tank is uncycled, so I'm checking ammonia regularly and staying on top of water changes. I waited a few days before dosing Cupramine just to let my new little friends relax a little and to make sure they were eating before I added any medication that might suppress their appetite.
My wife was a liiiittle surprised to learn that when I said we were getting a fish tank, I actually meant two
KJ
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Kevin Jaako
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NH3: 0.0 mg/L
NO2: 1.0 mg/L
NO3: > 100 mg/L
BAC: 0.12
NO2: 1.0 mg/L
NO3: > 100 mg/L
BAC: 0.12
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Kevin Jaako
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I got my ATO up and running last night. I'm using a Neptune DOS and a couple optical sensors to manage top off and (eventually) kalkwasser dosing. Based on the last 24h, I seem to need about 100ml per hour of top-off, which works out to between 4 & 5 gallons a week.
Every time the SumpLo optical sensor opens, the DOS doses 400ml of RODI at 60ml/min, which means it runs a little over 6 minutes every 4 hours. The SumpHi sensor is an emergency shut-off which deactivates ATO and kalk. SumpHi is only under water during feeding, when the COR-20 return pump dials down to 1% - I hope I don't run into issues with salt creep with an optical sensor that only gets wet briefly once a day?
I never uploaded pictures of how my cargo netting ended up working out as a cable-management system– pretty well, I'd say... there's no avoiding the fact that I've got a ridiculous amount of chargers, cables, power adapters and controllers stuffed into a 2-foot by 2-foot stand, but I think I've found a system that lets me keep my electronics reasonably safe & organized while still allowing me to perform periodic maintenance. It's tight... but it works! Heat was something I was worried about, but nothing feels too hot. Signal cross-talk was also something I considered while laying things out, so I've got sensitive analog signals (such as Apex probes & optical sensors) routed and coiled separately from high-current AC wires. I've also got a ring of indoor/outdoor LED rope lighting mounted around the inside perimeter of the stand. It's hooked into an APEX outlet and I'll eventually hook a switch to the stand door to turn it on/off automatically.
KJ
Every time the SumpLo optical sensor opens, the DOS doses 400ml of RODI at 60ml/min, which means it runs a little over 6 minutes every 4 hours. The SumpHi sensor is an emergency shut-off which deactivates ATO and kalk. SumpHi is only under water during feeding, when the COR-20 return pump dials down to 1% - I hope I don't run into issues with salt creep with an optical sensor that only gets wet briefly once a day?
I never uploaded pictures of how my cargo netting ended up working out as a cable-management system– pretty well, I'd say... there's no avoiding the fact that I've got a ridiculous amount of chargers, cables, power adapters and controllers stuffed into a 2-foot by 2-foot stand, but I think I've found a system that lets me keep my electronics reasonably safe & organized while still allowing me to perform periodic maintenance. It's tight... but it works! Heat was something I was worried about, but nothing feels too hot. Signal cross-talk was also something I considered while laying things out, so I've got sensitive analog signals (such as Apex probes & optical sensors) routed and coiled separately from high-current AC wires. I've also got a ring of indoor/outdoor LED rope lighting mounted around the inside perimeter of the stand. It's hooked into an APEX outlet and I'll eventually hook a switch to the stand door to turn it on/off automatically.
KJ
Last edited:
NY_Caveman
likes words, fish and arbitrary statistics
I got my ATO up and running last night. I'm using a Neptune DOS and a couple optical sensors to manage top off and (eventually) kalkwasser dosing. Based on the last 24h, I seem to need about 100ml per hour of top-off, which works out to between 4 & 5 gallons a week.
Every time the SumpLo optical sensor opens, the DOS doses 400ml of RODI at 60ml/min, which means it runs a little over 6 minutes every 4 hours. The SumpHi sensor is an emergency shut-off which deactivates ATO and kalk. SumpHi is only under water during feeding, when the COR-20 return pump dials down to 1% - I hope I don't run into issues with salt creep with an optical sensor that only gets wet briefly once a day?
I never uploaded pictures of how my cargo netting ended up working out as a cable-management system– pretty well, I'd say... there's no avoiding the fact that I've got a ridiculous amount of chargers, cables, power adapters and controllers stuffed into a 2-foot by 2-foot stand, but I think I've found a system that lets me keep my electronics reasonably safe & organized while still allowing me to perform periodic maintenance. It's tight... but it works! Heat was something I was worried about, but nothing feels too hot. Signal cross-talk was also something I considered while laying things out, so I've got sensitive analog signals (such as Apex probes & optical sensors) routed and coiled separately from high-current AC wires. I've also got a ring of indoor/outdoor LED rope lighting mounted around the inside perimeter of the stand. It's hooked into an APEX outlet and I'll eventually hook a switch to the stand door to turn it on/off automatically.
KJ
Looks good. How easy is it to pull something out for cleaning.
Kyl
And how does it feel like, to wake up in the sun
Thought I recognized that tank from Canreef, good to see another lower mainland build. When you start down the coral path, there are some good people around our area. Might have to steal some ideas from your build
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Kevin Jaako
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Thanks, @Fin, @Waters, @spyder813.
I guess we'll find out
Every cable is routed individually and zapstrapped into tight coils. I tried to route cables in "busses", so there are several shared paths with minimal criss-crossing. Devices that will need the most cleaning/maintenance (skimmer, return pump) will be "last in, first out", so that they are as easy as possible to take out without having to un-wind anything. There's no doubt that I will have added a little time to maintenance tasks by necessitating intricate cable removing/re-routing, but I think it's a necessary consequence of the amount of stuff I'm cramming into the stand...
I'm itching to get on that coral path as soon as I can!
KJ
I guess we'll find out
Every cable is routed individually and zapstrapped into tight coils. I tried to route cables in "busses", so there are several shared paths with minimal criss-crossing. Devices that will need the most cleaning/maintenance (skimmer, return pump) will be "last in, first out", so that they are as easy as possible to take out without having to un-wind anything. There's no doubt that I will have added a little time to maintenance tasks by necessitating intricate cable removing/re-routing, but I think it's a necessary consequence of the amount of stuff I'm cramming into the stand...
Thought I recognized that tank from Canreef, good to see another lower mainland build. When you start down the coral path, there are some good people around our area. Might have to steal some ideas from your build
I'm itching to get on that coral path as soon as I can!
KJ
I think the net is a genius idea. My only suggestion would be when you do go to get something out for maintenance you cover that sump with something so nothing falls in when you messing with it.
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Kevin Jaako
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Thx @Jaxon, @mch1984.
My biggest fear
I do have the return/filter sock section covered already to try and cut down on noise & salt creep but I took it out to take a few photos. I’m just using one of the kids’ alphabet placemats for now so it’s kinda goofy. I’ll eventually cut an acrylic sheet to size.
KJ
My biggest fear
I do have the return/filter sock section covered already to try and cut down on noise & salt creep but I took it out to take a few photos. I’m just using one of the kids’ alphabet placemats for now so it’s kinda goofy. I’ll eventually cut an acrylic sheet to size.
KJ
NY_Caveman
likes words, fish and arbitrary statistics
Ha ha ha ha! Your fish will be so smart. Reefers tend to be pretty innovative in my experience will use anything they can find in a pinch.
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Kevin Jaako
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Boy. When nitrite decides to drop, it really drops... literally overnight, I’m at zero.
And they say nothing good in this hobby happens fast! —Oh wait, I’ve been waiting for 27 days. Well, I guess i’m cycled.
I’ve been adding a few splashes of ammonia and microbacter7 every few days to keep myself busy and make me feel like I’m doing something.
My kids named our clownfish one and two (good job, guys). They still have another week and a half in quarantine before they get the upgrade to business class. I have the small issue of nitrate apocalypse to deal with first. My DT is 80g and I’ve only got the ability make a single 40g Brute’s-worth of water at a time. Should I do two 50% water changes (more like 40%, accounting for sump volume) or drain the whole darn thing and fill it up in two batches? I can get the entire aquascape back underwater with the first 40g, but I’ll have to leave my tank half empty and my sump offline overnight while I wait for my second Brute to fill and mix....
One one hand I’m leaving a fair bit of nitrate behind. On the other, I’m leaving my tank half empty for a day. On the third hand (weird), I could just buy another Brute, but I don’t really plan on doing 40%+ WC’s in future. Thoughts, anyone?
KJ
And they say nothing good in this hobby happens fast! —Oh wait, I’ve been waiting for 27 days. Well, I guess i’m cycled.
I’ve been adding a few splashes of ammonia and microbacter7 every few days to keep myself busy and make me feel like I’m doing something.
My kids named our clownfish one and two (good job, guys). They still have another week and a half in quarantine before they get the upgrade to business class. I have the small issue of nitrate apocalypse to deal with first. My DT is 80g and I’ve only got the ability make a single 40g Brute’s-worth of water at a time. Should I do two 50% water changes (more like 40%, accounting for sump volume) or drain the whole darn thing and fill it up in two batches? I can get the entire aquascape back underwater with the first 40g, but I’ll have to leave my tank half empty and my sump offline overnight while I wait for my second Brute to fill and mix....
One one hand I’m leaving a fair bit of nitrate behind. On the other, I’m leaving my tank half empty for a day. On the third hand (weird), I could just buy another Brute, but I don’t really plan on doing 40%+ WC’s in future. Thoughts, anyone?
KJ
Your build is coming along nicely.
CYCLED TANK!!!
Now the fun begins...
Do two water changes as large as you can (40gal) back to back. This will knock the nitrates down some.
Btw,
The cargo net was a great idea.
CYCLED TANK!!!
Now the fun begins...
Do two water changes as large as you can (40gal) back to back. This will knock the nitrates down some.
Btw,
The cargo net was a great idea.
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Kevin Jaako
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I free-handed another ounce or so of ammonia Friday night, just to keep the engine running...
This is what that looks like on the apex (NB: my probes aren’t calibrated yet- so note relative values only)
Ammonia drops back to zero in about 24h, nitrite a day later.
With nitrate well over 100 mg/L, I’m surprised how little algae I’ve developed. The tank doesn’t get a ton of sunlight and I’ve mostly kept my lights off, but still... The rocks are pristine. I’ve heard stories of corals having a hard time encrusting in new systems that use dead rock, since the ecosystem is too clean and lacks microfauna, bacteria and nutrients- I wonder if this is a manifestation of that? Nitrate soup without a single growing thing visible? Truthfully, I was expecting the “nasties” by now - but I’m sure they’re coming still...
KJ
This is what that looks like on the apex (NB: my probes aren’t calibrated yet- so note relative values only)
Ammonia drops back to zero in about 24h, nitrite a day later.
With nitrate well over 100 mg/L, I’m surprised how little algae I’ve developed. The tank doesn’t get a ton of sunlight and I’ve mostly kept my lights off, but still... The rocks are pristine. I’ve heard stories of corals having a hard time encrusting in new systems that use dead rock, since the ecosystem is too clean and lacks microfauna, bacteria and nutrients- I wonder if this is a manifestation of that? Nitrate soup without a single growing thing visible? Truthfully, I was expecting the “nasties” by now - but I’m sure they’re coming still...
KJ
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