Tenecor vs Midwest Custom Aquariums

[RemedyPlease]

See those fractional dims? That's probably because they are cutting it out of one sheet instead of going into a second. Sheets of this thickness are called block acrylic and usually come in net size of 48x96. Again, I don't know for sure. That's not a bad price BTW.

Thanks for the input, makes sense. I didn’t want to post links but photos are on that site. I can’t imagine I’ll be buying anything over 40 gallons without some sort of brace or perimeter after my current tank goes no matter what it’s built from. Nano sure but not larger.

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

Thanks for the input, makes sense. I didn’t want to post links but photos are on that site. I can’t imagine I’ll be buying anything over 40 gallons without some sort of brace or perimeter after my current tank goes no matter what it’s built from. Nano sure but not larger.

Whatever you end up doing, best wishes. And please post pics and updates.

 

[thomas_neil]

That one would be 1/2 inch. Rule of thumb, not hard set in stone, up to 20 h we go with 1/4 up to 24 3/8, up to 30 1/2. Above that, it depends. These are rules of thumb. Larger sizes like the one you are referncing usually 1/2 because we have stacks and stacks of 1/2 and because flexion is another issue. Another topic.

Would you consider 3/4" panels with 1/2" bottom and top over kill?

 

[thomas_neil]

BTW, base price starts at $1900 for that one.

This is the one I've seen. Is there a different one for cheaper?

ReefPoint® 300 Saltwater Acrylic Aquarium Center OF 96x30x24

ReefPoint® Saltwater Reef Acrylic Aquariums are offered in a large variety of sizes and styles. Whether you are new to the hobby or an experienced reef keeper, Tenecor gives you peace of mind. With an easy-to-customize design, unbeatable value, and a 15 Year warranty.

www.tenecoraquariums.com

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

Would you consider 3/4" panels with 1/2" bottom and top over kill?

I know intuitively you want to go with thicker walls and a thinner top. If wanted to megaton this build, go with a thicker top with bigger openings. Walls can stay 1/2 inch. I don't recommend it but the bottom can go as thin as 3/8 or if you want to prove something, 1/4. Don't do that. Stick with 1/2 inch all around and consider a thick top with bigger openings. The top plays a key role in keeping walls from bowing. The bottom also does but when supposed on a solid top stand it can be thinner

 

[Tired]

And I appreciate the offer and it really says a lot that 17 years later or what have you I got a better response from you in 20 minutes then months of fighting back then, but I am going to have to think about if I really want to step back into the hobby, that deeply again I am currently with a 20 gallon getting used to all the changes (live rock is bad now apparently?)

Live rock isn't bad, people just got scared of unpredictability and crabs, and opted to go for convenience with dry rock and bottled bacteria. Ironically, by going with dry rock, someone skips the risk of relatively easy pests (crabs, mantises, maybe a fireworm) from the live rock, and instead gets to court dinos!

Getting good live rock is a bit trickier now, and you'll be getting maricultured stuff (chucked in the ocean for a few years, then pulled back out) instead of a chopped-up natural reef, but there's a few options.

Don't get me wrong, dry rock tanks can work just fine, but you're looking at years to even try and mimic the amount of maturity and biodiversity that proper live rock brings in. Even a small package of mostly rubble rock (which is easier to vet for pests) chucked in the sump will do a load of good.

As for the actual topic of this thread, I'm very pleased with my Tenecor aquarium. Got it to replace a glass tank that leaked. Nice and solid, exactly the dimensions I wanted, and with a slight modification to the lid- namely, no cut-outs, so my tiny gobies wouldn't get airborne.
I do have one minor complaint; I went with an AIO style, and, rather than the back compartment's wall going completely across the tank, it's sort of a staple shape that leaves about a 2" wide space between the compartment and the outer wall of the tank. I've learned that if you're trying to catch fish out of the tank, they'll hide in there. You can scare them out, sure, with effort, but then they just circle the tank once and dive back in if you don't manage to snag them immediately. I assume there's some sort of benefit to having those little spaces back there, but I'm not clear on what it is.

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

Live rock isn't bad, people just got scared of unpredictability and crabs, and opted to go for convenience with dry rock and bottled bacteria. Ironically, by going with dry rock, someone skips the risk of relatively easy pests (crabs, mantises, maybe a fireworm) from the live rock, and instead gets to court dinos!

Getting good live rock is a bit trickier now, and you'll be getting maricultured stuff (chucked in the ocean for a few years, then pulled back out) instead of a chopped-up natural reef, but there's a few options.

Don't get me wrong, dry rock tanks can work just fine, but you're looking at years to even try and mimic the amount of maturity and biodiversity that proper live rock brings in. Even a small package of mostly rubble rock (which is easier to vet for pests) chucked in the sump will do a load of good.

As for the actual topic of this thread, I'm very pleased with my Tenecor aquarium. Got it to replace a glass tank that leaked. Nice and solid, exactly the dimensions I wanted, and with a slight modification to the lid- namely, no cut-outs, so my tiny gobies wouldn't get airborne.
I do have one minor complaint; I went with an AIO style, and, rather than the back compartment's wall going completely across the tank, it's sort of a staple shape that leaves about a 2" wide space between the compartment and the outer wall of the tank. I've learned that if you're trying to catch fish out of the tank, they'll hide in there. You can scare them out, sure, with effort, but then they just circle the tank once and dive back in if you don't manage to snag them immediately. I assume there's some sort of benefit to having those little spaces back there, but I'm not clear on what it is.

That is the trade off we make with our AIO's. It is by orders of magnitude easier to bond the aio walls to the back of the tank along with the baffles, rather than doing full coast to coast and bonding the filter walls to the side walls and the baffles to the back walls and all of it to the bottom. Our design also makes for a more visually appealing side views small fish do like to go hidey on you though. Can I ask you for pics? How old?

 

[a.t.t.r]

Live rock isn't bad, people just got scared of unpredictability and crabs, and opted to go for convenience with dry rock and bottled bacteria. Ironically, by going with dry rock, someone skips the risk of relatively easy pests (crabs, mantises, maybe a fireworm) from the live rock, and instead gets to court dinos!

Getting good live rock is a bit trickier now, and you'll be getting maricultured stuff (chucked in the ocean for a few years, then pulled back out) instead of a chopped-up natural reef, but there's a few options.

Don't get me wrong, dry rock tanks can work just fine, but you're looking at years to even try and mimic the amount of maturity and biodiversity that proper live rock brings in. Even a small package of mostly rubble rock (which is easier to vet for pests) chucked in the sump will do a load of good.

As for the actual topic of this thread, I'm very pleased with my Tenecor aquarium. Got it to replace a glass tank that leaked. Nice and solid, exactly the dimensions I wanted, and with a slight modification to the lid- namely, no cut-outs, so my tiny gobies wouldn't get airborne.
I do have one minor complaint; I went with an AIO style, and, rather than the back compartment's wall going completely across the tank, it's sort of a staple shape that leaves about a 2" wide space between the compartment and the outer wall of the tank. I've learned that if you're trying to catch fish out of the tank, they'll hide in there. You can scare them out, sure, with effort, but then they just circle the tank once and dive back in if you don't manage to snag them immediately. I assume there's some sort of benefit to having those little spaces back there, but I'm not clear on what it is.

I know it isn’t actually bad, but it just seems like everyone’s going with dry rock, and all of the traditions are out the window. I could not even find true live rock locally.

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

This is the one I've seen. Is there a different one for cheaper?

ReefPoint® 300 Saltwater Acrylic Aquarium Center OF 96x30x24

ReefPoint® Saltwater Reef Acrylic Aquariums are offered in a large variety of sizes and styles. Whether you are new to the hobby or an experienced reef keeper, Tenecor gives you peace of mind. With an easy-to-customize design, unbeatable value, and a 15 Year warranty.

www.tenecoraquariums.com

Oh, you want a bottom attached to your tank? Just kidding. No, this is pretty close to the tank. If you want it as shown, it would be about $2,600 with the OF and crating included (we crate everything). Then plus shipping. This size ships oversize. And we include residential liftgate. All of this cost money. The price I gave you still would be a lot less than what is shown. We have gone back and forth on how to price our stuff online, whether to include shipping or not. The number you see includes shipping. The problem with that is the guy living in New Yawk City is subsidized by the guy living down the street. And yes, our prices are high. But we are still very busy.

 

[Ol’Murph]

The last week or so, I’ve been following this thread. The term defection has my attention. If I wanted to go 96 x 24 x 30, would that exhibit more defection then a 96x30x24? Does the additional height cause this issue to be more pronounced?

I’ve been in the hobby for almost 30 years. I’ve owned every glass tank made at one time or another. I have an old Oceanic tank that still holds water and I have less than 5 year old rimless tank that I know will let go one day sooner than later.

Acrylic tanks for the most part have been off my radar until recently. I would like say thanks to @Tenecor Aquariums for taking the time the come here to participate and educate. Not many owners do that. Not many try to solve issues by putting up their time and money. I, for one, appreciate that.

Now, I need to go tell my wife I want to order another tank. I mean, I need to tell her we need to order another tank. Gotta love this hobby!

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

The last week or so, I’ve been following this thread. The term defection has my attention. If I wanted to go 96 x 24 x 30, would that exhibit more defection then a 96x30x24? Does the additional height cause this issue to be more pronounced?

I’ve been in the hobby for almost 30 years. I’ve owned every glass tank made at one time or another. I have an old Oceanic tank that still holds water and I have less than 5 year old rimless tank that I know will let go one day sooner than later.

Acrylic tanks for the most part have been off my radar until recently. I would like say thanks to @Tenecor Aquariums for taking the time the come here to participate and educate. Not many owners do that. Not many try to solve issues by putting up their time and money. I, for one, appreciate that.

Now, I need to go tell my wife I want to order another tank. I mean, I need to tell her we need to order another tank. Gotta love this hobby!

First off, let's be clear that deflection is not the same as bowing. Bowing as we use it in the acrylic aquarium vernacular indicates an undesirable outward curvature of the panels, usually the walls and sometimes the bottom. The top of an acrylic tank can also bow but almost always Inward/downward. Deflection on the other hand is much less noticeable and not something to concerned with. Even glass tanks will deflect to some degree but much less. Bowing can be the result of various factors or a combination of factors. The first reason that comes to most people's minds is the acrylic was too thin. While this can indeed be a reason for bowing, it may not be the only reason or the main reason at all. Back to this in a minute.

In addition to under-gauge acrylic, using continuous cast (AKA extruded) acrylic will also result in bowing as well as stress creep and crazing. This material should never be used in an aquarium build although it is often used in sumps, shelves and similar applications. Even in these types of applications it is not recommended.

Back to your question. Acrylic tanks need to be thought of as systems. The walls, top and bottom all play important roles in the entire structure of the tank they comprise. Most people intuitively think by simply making the walls thicker they will reduce or eliminate bowing. This is not always the case. The top and the bottom (supported by a full stand deck rather than a perimeter stand) play crucial roles. Acrylic seams are chemical bonds when properly formed are as strong as the acrylic sheet itself. When a top or ONE PIECE perimeter brace is attached to the walls it helps prevent bowing/deflection by holding the walls in 90 degree angles to the top. The water pressure will want to push the walls outward and if the top was too thin or not meaty enough it would deflect downward into the tank. This also applies to the bottom of the aquarium as well. Sidenote; while not recommended, you can theoretically make the bottom out of ridiculously thin acrylic and as long as it is fully supported there would be no concern for seam failure. Theoretically, not practically. Back to the top. Many DIY guys often attempt to piece together the tops in some fashion or other by laying them out akin to dominoes with rudimentary butt seams. Or they will simply place a piece across the top in three places from front to back. All are recipes for failure. Successful construction requires the top of an acrylic tank to be made from a single piece of material with the openings thoughtfully designed and cut out, leaving enough material to prevent that downward bowing from the water pressure on the walls.

But how thick should the walls be? Now we can attempt to answer that. As I have repeated many times over ad nasuem, we were the first company to develop and build hobbyist acrylic aquariums. There was no internet. There were no YouTube videos. Trial and error at first, then methodologies and processes. Last night a member @oreo54 posted this >> https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/a...lding-acrylic-aquariums.1032690/post-12166762

It referenced an online thickness calculator published by a manufacturer of acrylic sheet. I did not mention it at the time but over 45 years ago, Tenecor was the company Rohm & Haas (Plexiglas) contacted in helping to establish these calculations. At the time we were the second largest buyer of acrylic west of the Mississippi with Boeing being the largest. We were working very closely with the engineers at R&H to develop those calculations. Based on our experience, we came up with thickness references based on the size and more importantly, the height of the aquarium. The tanks you are talking about is a perfect example of our reference guidelines. So here is the summary: up to 20 inches, 1/4, 24 inches, 3/8, 30 inches 1/2, 36 inches 3/4 and above that, we enter the "it depends" zone. There are exceptions to these guidelines. But every time I see a post about "how thick acrylic do i need...." I know there will be a conversation. Please feel free to ask any questions as I did not fully answer yours. Suffice to say that neither size you mentioned should bow/deflect out of the norm since they would be made from different gauge acrylics.

 

[Ol’Murph]

Actually, you did answer my question. I’m sure a fabricator or an engineer might not agree but I’m neither of those. Like you stated in another thread, I buy my toaster already made.

Most of my concern is completely unfounded. Just artifacts left over from years ago when heavy glass tank guys said glass is better, stronger, doesn’t scratch as easily, etc.

Clearly, a properly sized top/lid is integral to the integrity of the acrylic system. Does all of the weight we add in the way lights/mounting arms, or canopies add any concern for bowing/deflection? Or if the tank is made properly those things don’t affect it at all?

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

Actually, you did answer my question. I’m sure a fabricator or an engineer might not agree but I’m neither of those. Like you stated in another thread, I buy my toaster already made.

Most of my concern is completely unfounded. Just artifacts left over from years ago when heavy glass tank guys said glass is better, stronger, doesn’t scratch as easily, etc.

Clearly, a properly sized top/lid is integral to the integrity of the acrylic system. Does all of the weight we add in the way lights/mounting arms, or canopies add any concern for bowing/deflection? Or if the tank is made properly those things don’t affect it at all?

The added weights of the lights, canopy is not at all a factor. Indeed, I have no idea how you would put a canopy on one of those rimless glass tanks without losing sleep. Especially the way the front panels are attached.

 

[Tired]

Hang the whole canopy from the ceiling like people do with lights? Dunno that it'd be very practical, and probably look silly, but I reckon it'd work if you had a strong enough ceiling attachment.

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

Hang the whole canopy from the ceiling like people do with lights? Dunno that it'd be very practical, and probably look silly, but I reckon it'd work if you had a strong enough ceiling attachment.

We have the new Magnum Signature Series coming April. Aluminum stands with "floating" canopies.

 

[JoJosReef]

What else are you looking for? Background color? Peninsula? Overflows? That size is a lousy cut yield but the tank is beautiful. Standard walls would be 3/8 including top and bottom. Base price with no OF or color walls would be around $1,500 plus shipping for 3/8 and $350 more if you want 1/2 inch. Unbreakable polycarbonate lids with feed cups are no charge. Internal OF return plumbing no charge. Loc line in tank plumbing no charge. If you want it blessed by a witch doctor $50 extra. Take a look at the pics below if you want peninsula OF. This would be a additional cost. This design is very efficient and we can do it as OF or AIO. AIO wet/dry or open sump for the above is also available.

We can also do external OF as shown below. Don't like them but we do them.

Beautiful tanks! Never considered acrylic, but I have a dream of a long, wide, shallow-ish tank someday and might consider acrylic, especially since you have big tanks with what look like functional AIOs. A few questions. With the acrylic lid, do these tanks have problems overheating? Should they be on chillers, as opposed to screen lidded tanks that can use fans? Does the acrylic affect the PAR values for lights? I don't understand the AIO chambers. They seem to be fixed in place with cups, not like an Intank media shelf that can be pulled out and cleaned. How do you clean below the first cup? It looks like the AIO chambers don't go as high as the perimeter acrylic. Is this for emergency overflow in case the chambers get blocked and water level rises? In the big tank AIOs, do you fit skimmers in them?

Thanks, sorry for bombarding you with questions!

 

[Ol’Murph]

We have the new Magnum Signature Series coming April. Aluminum stands with "floating" canopies.

Okay, I’ll bite. Realizing I’m going to have to pull the trigger on a new tank and realizing FOMO exists, you wouldn’t have a drawing of the new Magnum Signature Series available for our viewing pleasure?

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

Beautiful tanks! Never considered acrylic, but I have a dream of a long, wide, shallow-ish tank someday and might consider acrylic, especially since you have big tanks with what look like functional AIOs. A few questions. With the acrylic lid, do these tanks have problems overheating? Should they be on chillers, as opposed to screen lidded tanks that can use fans? Does the acrylic affect the PAR values for lights? I don't understand the AIO chambers. They seem to be fixed in place with cups, not like an Intank media shelf that can be pulled out and cleaned. How do you clean below the first cup? It looks like the AIO chambers don't go as high as the perimeter acrylic. Is this for emergency overflow in case the chambers get blocked and water level rises? In the big tank AIOs, do you fit skimmers in them?

Thanks, sorry for bombarding you with questions!

The lids are polycarbonate, not acrylic polycarbonate is unbreakable and does not yellow. Our aio covers are black polycarbonate. The par value question, I don't know. We have sold thousands of these separately and they also are included with our ReefPoint Advanced Euro Series frags (yes, we include lids with our frags) and no one ever has complained. What they like about our lids is they last a very long time and are inexpensive. a fraction of the well known mesh guys. They have very nice lids btw. We just think they are way overengineered and pricey. But very nice.

The media cups are completely removable. We have two different AIO designs. The Advantage full wet/dry aio's and the HushFlow open sump style wet/wet AIO. These are the inexpensive ones you find in all the glass tanks. On our peninsula tanks we incorporate the media cups as well in both the overflow and AIO versions. Customers love the cups. We kit our AIO's with "forever floss" which guess what, lasts forever. Literally. Disposable filter socks? Something with that picture is plain wrong when this hobby is so closely tied to the ocean and healthy environmental guardianship. Media caddies? yeah we have those too. >>> https://www.tenecoraquariums.com/collections/advanced-media-caddies

We also have these external OF tanks

This above is a full wet/dry AIO, the Advantage. Polycarbonate drip plate, removable media cups. We invented this system in 1978. Sold over one million of them. Mostly the small model 8 desktop you see below.

As for the baffle heights and emergency overflows, you are correct. It is not apparent BTW with our ReefPoint Lagoon Series but those media cups are HUUGE. 7 inches in diameter and the AIO chambers are 8 inches wide. Amazing tanks and the only Reef Ready AIO. You can run just about any accessory in the middle chambers. All of your questions are good ones.

This is the ReefPoint AIO Lagoon.

I am in the process of speaking with our media team to expand our presence here on R2R. more videos, illustrations and product news. We don't advertise. That also will be changing as we add capacity. Take a look at the images below and fire away with your questions. I am sitting here in California getting ready to dog paddle in my driveway. Below is the Quad cup overflow peninsula. All the cups are removable. Also available as an AIO.

The small frags are the only rimless tanks we make. 1/2 inch walls. Not a fan of taller rimless tanks. I don't care how thick, they all will bow eventually. Our Euro frags are much less expensive. Made from 1/4 acrylic and will never bow. And they will last forever. Ok, a really long time.

 

[Tenecor Aquariums]

Okay, I’ll bite. Realizing I’m going to have to pull the trigger on a new tank and realizing FOMO exists, you wouldn’t have a drawing of the new Magnum Signature Series available for our viewing pleasure?

We built a couple of them. But not with the "floating canopy" just adjustable overhead light mounts. They also will have a control panel mounting wall inside the stand with 12 plug or 24 plug DJ recessed power strips.] and separate side door access. Interior cabinet lighting too. Below are some of the prototype pics. These pics are a couple of months old. The new and improved are much nicer and more refined.

 

[Ol’Murph]

Excellent! That address several issues we all have with most of the current lighting options. If you use a mounting arm, they tend to sag. If you go with length based arm mounts, which mount on the end panels, those tend to sag in the middle of the span especially at the 72” + spans.

Not only the fixture but the extras make it a real nice addition.

Timing of availability is still on target for April or will that get pushed?