Pluteaz
Community Member
Welp, it has been quite a long journey in finally being able to set up my reef tank, and I can’t believe how far aquaria tech has progressed since my last set up back in 2012. I have a 90g rimmed tank on a black wooden cabinet this is my build.
Equipment:
2 x Aqamai powerheads, 2 x Aquaillumination Hydra TwentySix HD, 1 x Kessil H80 Tuna Flora, 1 x Aqua Marine AC Return Pump 5kL/Hr
1 x Nyos 1.0 TORQ media reactor, 1 x 300w Cobalt Aquatics Dual Unit Heater, 1 x Autoaqua Wey/Dry Shutoff.
and a Hang-on Back Overflow.
I decided to tackle making my own sump. I used:
1 x 29g Aquarium, Baffles, Black Aquarium Si, 1 x BRS Filter Sock Mount.
I used tape, foam and some cardboard inserts that came with our TV packaging as the support and spacers for the baffles.
As for the filtration I decided to implement:
100 micron Filter Sock, Lifegard Aquatics Extra Course Aquamesh Black 1 and Grey 4 Fine, BRS ROX .8 Carbon, BRS Biopellets, Chaetomorpha linum, and rock rubble.
Aquascape:
I went through a few iterations for the layout of the rock, but I found my desired composition. These were two configurations I tested out.
This is another configuration that I really admired, so I decided to match this as best I could in the tank. I liked the idea of a cliff like structure, and this was a characteristic I wanted to incorporate within the final design. To do this I drilled a hole through some rock for an acrylic rod insert for stability. I considered rock that would contact the bottom of the aquarium my base rock, and created a facet such that they would sit flat on the bottom.
I super glued the base rocks to the tank. I found a great arching rock that was considerably heavier than the other rocks. I used this to act as counter weight and provided more stability to the cliff. I then took some rubble I made and super glued them to the cliff till it extended to my satisfaction.
I decided to divide the tank into a 3x3 section on both viewing panes. I did this to create asymmetry for the main viewing pane and a central focus in the second viewing pane. Aside from my knowledge in art composition, I looked into some aquascaping videos, and I watched John Ciotti's YouTube presentation from MACNA 2014 for some more guidance on my scape. His video was very helpful and I'd recommend checking it out.
(Pane 1- left, Pane 2- right)
I recall someone saying the rock shouldn't stack higher than the center of the tank. I'm not sure where I heard this, or if it's true. Regardless, I am very happy with adding the extra height. I super glued most connection points. I added Fiji pink dry sand, almost 80lbs but decided to do about 65-70lbs.
I purchased a 5 stage BRS RODI unit, Tropic Marin Pro-Reef Salt, and created my water. It was still very hot outside, got to love Florida! I wasn't sure if this would damage my RODI unit, but I didn't want to chance it. Therefore, I made the water with a 50 g Brute trash can in my kitchen. I used one of my powerheads to mix the salt as the water filled the can.
Thankfully, my partner was very very understanding.
Unfortunately, one of my LFSs only had live rock, so upon setting up the aquascape I attempted to keep it wet as much as possible. I don't know how successful I was, but eventually the tank was filled.
Sump:
I am in the process of lining the inside of my stand with shower lining I purchased from Home Depot. I found this helps with noise reduction and should help with salt creep on outside surfaces such as the walls and floors. I purchased 1" schedule 80 Blue PVC from BRS along a few gate valves. I opted out of installing ball valves, for I like the precision of the gate valve. I plan on expanding my equipment and therefore installed areas in my plumbing that will permit me to do so.
In order to control some of the evaporation from the sump my friend and I made some lids. We used the same material common for greenhouse windows (so he told me:p).
Micro Fauna:
I am thrilled that it has all come together! I added Turbo900. I stocked my refugium with the C. linum. My Kessil will run for eight hours at night. I added Oceanmagik, 5280 pods from AlgaeBarn, and amphipods from aquaculturenurseryfarms.com.
I allowed the tank to cycle for a month before adding some invertebrates, then fish and coral. I anticipate adding a protein skimmer, but that won't be for some time.
Water Chemistry:
I am going to add a combination of macro and trace elements from BRS, Red Sea, Brightwell, and Triton. I will send in a water sample for ICP analysis, and progress from there. Currently, I am using RedSea Nitrate Pro Reef Test Kit, their pH | Alkalinity test kit, Hanna Instruments Alkalinity Colorimeter and their low range Phosphorous Colorimeter. I anticipate using Red Sea's Ca and Mg test kit once I start dosing the tank.
I wanted to pay homage to the nascent stage of a Cniadria the phylum which engulfs coral. I'm excited to see my tank grow, and in time I hope it will be a my personal, beautiful piece of the reef.
Equipment:
2 x Aqamai powerheads, 2 x Aquaillumination Hydra TwentySix HD, 1 x Kessil H80 Tuna Flora, 1 x Aqua Marine AC Return Pump 5kL/Hr
1 x Nyos 1.0 TORQ media reactor, 1 x 300w Cobalt Aquatics Dual Unit Heater, 1 x Autoaqua Wey/Dry Shutoff.
and a Hang-on Back Overflow.
I decided to tackle making my own sump. I used:
1 x 29g Aquarium, Baffles, Black Aquarium Si, 1 x BRS Filter Sock Mount.
I used tape, foam and some cardboard inserts that came with our TV packaging as the support and spacers for the baffles.
As for the filtration I decided to implement:
100 micron Filter Sock, Lifegard Aquatics Extra Course Aquamesh Black 1 and Grey 4 Fine, BRS ROX .8 Carbon, BRS Biopellets, Chaetomorpha linum, and rock rubble.
Aquascape:
I went through a few iterations for the layout of the rock, but I found my desired composition. These were two configurations I tested out.
This is another configuration that I really admired, so I decided to match this as best I could in the tank. I liked the idea of a cliff like structure, and this was a characteristic I wanted to incorporate within the final design. To do this I drilled a hole through some rock for an acrylic rod insert for stability. I considered rock that would contact the bottom of the aquarium my base rock, and created a facet such that they would sit flat on the bottom.
I super glued the base rocks to the tank. I found a great arching rock that was considerably heavier than the other rocks. I used this to act as counter weight and provided more stability to the cliff. I then took some rubble I made and super glued them to the cliff till it extended to my satisfaction.
I decided to divide the tank into a 3x3 section on both viewing panes. I did this to create asymmetry for the main viewing pane and a central focus in the second viewing pane. Aside from my knowledge in art composition, I looked into some aquascaping videos, and I watched John Ciotti's YouTube presentation from MACNA 2014 for some more guidance on my scape. His video was very helpful and I'd recommend checking it out.
(Pane 1- left, Pane 2- right)
I recall someone saying the rock shouldn't stack higher than the center of the tank. I'm not sure where I heard this, or if it's true. Regardless, I am very happy with adding the extra height. I super glued most connection points. I added Fiji pink dry sand, almost 80lbs but decided to do about 65-70lbs.
I purchased a 5 stage BRS RODI unit, Tropic Marin Pro-Reef Salt, and created my water. It was still very hot outside, got to love Florida! I wasn't sure if this would damage my RODI unit, but I didn't want to chance it. Therefore, I made the water with a 50 g Brute trash can in my kitchen. I used one of my powerheads to mix the salt as the water filled the can.
Thankfully, my partner was very very understanding.
Unfortunately, one of my LFSs only had live rock, so upon setting up the aquascape I attempted to keep it wet as much as possible. I don't know how successful I was, but eventually the tank was filled.
Sump:
I am in the process of lining the inside of my stand with shower lining I purchased from Home Depot. I found this helps with noise reduction and should help with salt creep on outside surfaces such as the walls and floors. I purchased 1" schedule 80 Blue PVC from BRS along a few gate valves. I opted out of installing ball valves, for I like the precision of the gate valve. I plan on expanding my equipment and therefore installed areas in my plumbing that will permit me to do so.
In order to control some of the evaporation from the sump my friend and I made some lids. We used the same material common for greenhouse windows (so he told me:p).
Micro Fauna:
I am thrilled that it has all come together! I added Turbo900. I stocked my refugium with the C. linum. My Kessil will run for eight hours at night. I added Oceanmagik, 5280 pods from AlgaeBarn, and amphipods from aquaculturenurseryfarms.com.
I allowed the tank to cycle for a month before adding some invertebrates, then fish and coral. I anticipate adding a protein skimmer, but that won't be for some time.
Water Chemistry:
I am going to add a combination of macro and trace elements from BRS, Red Sea, Brightwell, and Triton. I will send in a water sample for ICP analysis, and progress from there. Currently, I am using RedSea Nitrate Pro Reef Test Kit, their pH | Alkalinity test kit, Hanna Instruments Alkalinity Colorimeter and their low range Phosphorous Colorimeter. I anticipate using Red Sea's Ca and Mg test kit once I start dosing the tank.
I wanted to pay homage to the nascent stage of a Cniadria the phylum which engulfs coral. I'm excited to see my tank grow, and in time I hope it will be a my personal, beautiful piece of the reef.
The Planula Reef
