The Secret of Higher pH

Queen City Corals

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Introduction
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There are tons of great resources that talk about the benefits of higher pH on coral growth but many of them merely use anecdotal evidence from their own tanks, and while this is great there are tons of variables on our own reef tanks and it is very difficult to apply these results to the thousands of different tanks around the globe. I also would like to mention that the majority of reefers have no need to chase their pH, soft corals will be largely unaffected by pH as long as it is within a range of 7.8-8.3 and stays consistent. It is also important to note as I will demonstrate later in this article that you can grow stony corals at any pH from 7.8-8.3 just fine and many methods that are used to increase pH can cause more harm than good.

As an aquarium store that grows many of our own corals, we want to get every little bit of growth out of our tanks as possible. Because of this and the recent discussion in the reefing community, I have been researching the effects of higher pH on coral growth and while there have been some awesome resources from reefers and companies displaying the benefits of higher pH, however, I also find tons of value in experiments performed by the scientific community due to their ability to remove most extraneous variables and focus on their dependent variable. I have recently come across three articles, the first Ocean acidification effects on calcification and dissolution in tropical reef macroalgae, which examines the effects that lower pH has on the calcification process of macroalgae. The second Effects of light and darkness on pH regulation in three coral species exposed to seawater acidification, which looks at the impact of lighting and pH on coral calcification. And finally Decreased light availability can amplify negative impacts of ocean acidification on calcifying coral reef organisms, which exposes coral and macroalgae to high and low light as well as high and low pH.

The secret to higher growth rates

While these articles all look at slightly different things they all demonstrate the same basic principle, no matter the coral, no matter the algae, calcification rates increased at higher pH. And this is usually where most resources on the subject stop. Higher calcification means higher coral growth means I should run my pH at 8.3 via a refugium, CO2 scrubber, fresh oxygen for my protein skimmer, or a myriad of other methods regardless of the time or cost. But it is important to look at the results of these experiments and look at the nuisance that exists in this very complicated mixture of biology and chemistry.

These articles don’t just present their results and say higher pH means more growth so I don’t think that we as a hobby should do that either. The common idea that all three of these studies show is that pH has no significant impact on calcification rates during the day for pH values that are consistent with those in most reef tanks. The real difference in calcification rates is when the lights are off, all three studies showed that in both algae and corals calcification rates, at pH ranges from 7.8-8.3, only had a significant decrease during dark hours. This often-overlooked caveat to the commonly held belief that higher pH means higher growth is extremely important when it comes to changing your tank’s pH to get better growth.

While these results did vary slightly based on coral species the variability is something that seems obvious to hobbyists, generally easier corals like Stylophora and Pocillopora were less impacted by lower pH while more typically delicate Acropora species were more impacted by lower pH even during the day when calcification rates remained very similar. Dark calcification rates were seen to decrease by between 40-155% in corals however most of the calcification occurs during the day so a 155% decrease in dark calcification rates translated to just a 48% decrease in growth. This 50% decrease in growth was also shown at a pH of 7.7 a level that few established reef tanks run at. Another interesting finding is that lower pH is more harmful to growth under low light, “Low light significantly reduced growth rates of A. millepora by 96% compared to controls”, this is an astonishing finding that show the impact of other factors on growth that act with pH (Vogel et al. 2015).



Where do we go from here?

This information is all great, but how do you apply it to your tank, how have I applied it to my tanks? There are a couple of things that I learned from these articles and hopefully, you too can understand is that the catchy headline of “Increase your coral growth by 50%!” is grounded in really good science but has been co-opted and ground down into an easily applicable number of 8.3 which is the pH that we all want to hit. The question becomes how do you get there rather than why do you want to get there and there really is a set of questions you should ask yourself before continuing on with your quest to get to 8.3.

*One important thing to remember is that if your alkalinity is too low you will most likely have low pH, and for many people slowly increasing their alkalinity to around 8-9 DKH will greatly increase their pH.*

The first is what corals are you keeping, something common with all parameter chasing is that it varies based on your tank. If you have a softie tank with an LPS or two then I would say if you can add a refugium with some ease and cost-effectiveness then go for it! There are tons of other benefits to refugiums outside of increasing pH so I see no issue making a small change to hopefully get a benefit.

The next question I would ask is what is the status of your tank? There are 3 basic answers to this, the first is: horrible, my corals aren’t growing and I have random occasional die-off. If this is your answer then I wouldn’t worry about pH because you likely have bigger issues that need more attention whether its Nitrate or Phosphate issues, lighting, flow, or even some sort of predator, increasing your pH isn’t going to help any of these issues and it is only going to take time away from you addressing these issues. The second answer to this question is: amazing! Everything is growing quickly, I regularly test my parameters and everything is doing amazingly! If this is your answer then don’t change anything because it is only going to risk your success with an endless cycle of tweaking and tinkering that leads to instability. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it! The third answer is: good but not great, my corals are all healthy and I test my parameters regularly and everything is stable and within acceptable ranges, but my corals are growing very slowly and don’t look as good as they could. If this is your answer then maybe.

The final question you should ask is what is your pH and what is your plan to increase it. Now there are many answers to this but the best ones in my opinion are if your pH is below 8 especially during the night try and get it to at least above 8 first with a refugium and secondly by increasing your water changes and exporting more nutrients as this carbon build-up can lead to lower pH, and finally if that doesn’t work try to increase the ventilation of the space by drawing in fresh air for your skimmer or just opening a window when you can or adding a fan to increase the circulation of air in your house. If your pH is at 8 or 8.1 I would recommend the same things if you really want growth and have the time and money to spare, if you don’t then don’t worry about it and just enjoy your amazing tank! If you do have extra money and time then I would recommend the same methods as above with the possible addition of an additive that raises pH but does not affect your calcium or alkalinity if your tank is smaller, or if you have a bigger tank running a recirculating CO2 scrubber on your skimmer.

But all of these solutions should also be implemented in a way that makes sense with the science we just learned. For example, if you are running a refugium make sure you have the lights on when your tank lights are off, if you add a fan to the room where your tank is make sure it is running at night when the biggest impact of low pH is felt. Also, get a PAR meter and make sure that your lights are at the proper intensity for your corals because even with lower pH lower lighting has a greater impact on coral growth.


Conclusion

These results show if nothing else that corals are extremely complicated and increasing your pH to 8.3 won’t magically give you 50% better growth as some may have you believe. Instead, it is about examining your system as a whole and looking at the multitude of factors that are impacting it, and diagnosing what does what and also how they affect each other. The reason this is a rewarding hobby is because it is difficult to have an amazing tank and even with all the gadgets in the world you still have to put in the work to make your tank look stunning.
One thing that I don’t want to do with this article is that chasing numbers is the way to have a successful reef because there are tons of amazing tanks with a pH of 8.1 and even 7.8. The point that I would like to make is that you don’t need to spend money getting the next great thing to achieve the next great parameter, but rather look at your corals and learn what they look like when they are happy and what makes them happy. Because they are living things and there is no one size fits all recipe for coral growth so it is important to understand your specific tank and maintain stability within it. I can confidently state that the best tanks are the ones that are stable because even if they aren’t getting the best growth or coloration they are able to maintain long-term growth and are far less likely to crash due to tinkering.




Sources


McNicholl, C., et al. "Ocean acidification effects on calcification and dissolution in tropical reef macroalgae." Coral Reefs 39.6 (2020): 1635-1647. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00338-020-01991-x

Venn, A.A., Tambutté, E., Caminiti-Segonds, N. et al. Effects of light and darkness on pH regulation in three coral species exposed to seawater acidification. Sci Rep 9, 2201 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-018-38168-0

Vogel, Nikolas, et al. "Calcareous green alga H. alimeda tolerates ocean acidification conditions at tropical carbon dioxide seeps." Limnology and Oceanography 60.1 (2015): 263-275.https://aslopubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/lno.10021
 
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Staghorn

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Well thank you for the information but it’s not really a secret is it? It would be great as us as a community would post our findings of actual experiments we’ve done with trying to get our pH higher. For instance I ran a fresh air intake to my skimmer and I noticed about a .1-.2 increase in my pH. I’m currently dosing kalkwasser (~2250 ml per day into my 120) and have noticed an increase of about .05-.1. I’m hoping when there is more demand for alk and calc I will be able to get more of a benefit from using the Kalkwasser.
 

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Would you recommend dosing soda ash (alkalinity) around the clock with doser to have consistent PH elevation (although maybe less of a raise due to less amounts doser in a shot) or is it better more have all the Alk dosed during the day when corals need it most (also with auto doser)?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Would you recommend dosing soda ash (alkalinity) around the clock with doser to have consistent PH elevation (although maybe less of a raise due to less amounts doser in a shot) or is it better more have all the Alk dosed during the day when corals need it most (also with auto doser)?

There are two competing principles.

1. Dosing alk during the day will stabilize alk more than dosing 24 /7 since it is used more during the day.
2. Dosing high pH additives at night will bring up the nightly pH low more than dosing during the day or 24/7.

Both have merit. Which is most important may vary by tank and how low the pH actually is.

I'd also add that soda ash is not the best additive for boosting pH. Hydroxide is, either by kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide) or something like my ultra high pH two part using sodium hydroxide.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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if your pH is below 8 especially during the night try and get it to at least above 8 first with a refugium and secondly by increasing your water changes and exporting more nutrients as this carbon build-up can lead to lower pH,

Can you explain what you mean by that? Have you ever seen anyone fix a low pH problem with a water change? I haven't and do not recommend it.

I do not believe this is the main cause of low pH in a reef tank (elevated CO2 in indoor air seems to hold that title by a large margin based on what solves peoples low pH issues), so I would never suggest that water changes are a good first approach.

While the breakdown of organics to CO2 can be a source of CO2, if breakdown of dissolved organics were happening to a significant degree every day, the organics would not be accumulating. I think that a water change will reduce organics, but they will come back up rapidly. It's not like exporting something that you can fix with a one off water change.
 
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Queen City Corals

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Well thank you for the information but it’s not really a secret is it? It would be great as us as a community would post our findings of actual experiments we’ve done with trying to get our pH higher. For instance I ran a fresh air intake to my skimmer and I noticed about a .1-.2 increase in my pH. I’m currently dosing kalkwasser (~2250 ml per day into my 120) and have noticed an increase of about .05-.1. I’m hoping when there is more demand for alk and calc I will be able to get more of a benefit from using the Kalkwasser.
Hey Staghorn, the "secret" I'm trying to address is that timing in pH levels matter, these studies showed that at a lower pH most corals were unaffected during the day, however their calcification rates dropped greatly at night. I think that this is a very important aspect when looking into a lowered pH. Working at a saltwater aquarium store I know that most people don't have a pH probe and often don't test their pH at night, because of this I wanted show an often left out aspect of the pH conversation that having low pH at night can be more harmful.
 
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Queen City Corals

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Can you explain what you mean by that? Have you ever seen anyone fix a low pH problem with a water change? I haven't and do not recommend it.

I do not believe this is the main cause of low pH in a reef tank (elevated CO2 in indoor air seems to hold that title by a large margin based on what solves peoples low pH issues), so I would never suggest that water changes are a good first approach.

While the breakdown of organics to CO2 can be a source of CO2, if breakdown of dissolved organics were happening to a significant degree every day, the organics would not be accumulating. I think that a water change will reduce organics, but they will come back up rapidly. It's not like exporting something that you can fix with a one off water change.
I'm agree that for most people a water change isn't going to fix their pH but I know lots of people who have a more established tank where they haven't done water changes in 6+ months or even a year plus. I like to approach these more advanced reef problems by starting with the easiest, cheapest, and least risky options first. Is a water change that likely to make a huge difference for a long period of time, no probably not. But I think that it may allow you to see that you have too many fish, or could be feeding too much. On top of that I strongly believe that doing a reasonable sized water change can only benefit your tank.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Hey Staghorn, the "secret" I'm trying to address is that timing in pH levels matter, these studies showed that at a lower pH most corals were unaffected during the day, however their calcification rates dropped greatly at night. I think that this is a very important aspect when looking into a lowered pH.

IMO, the fact that alkalinity is consumed mostly during the day is one of the substantial unanswered questions of reef chemistry: why?

It could be either or both of these possibilities:

1. It is photosynthesis directly that causes increased calcification, by any of several processes such as pH raising inside of cells.
2. It is pH alone, which is higher during the day, which increases calcification, both abiotic and/or biological.

One good way to shed light on this question is to run a reef tank on a sufficiently reverse pH cycle that photosynthesis and highest pH do not coincide. But that is technically challenging.
 

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I struggled keeping PH above 8 at night and was looking into a scrubber. I ran an air line from skimmer to outside and it made a huge difference for me. It now bottoms out at 8.25 at night and raises to about 8.45 during the day. I dose 90mL of soda ash over a 24 hr. period. Ive wondered if there was something I could do different to make that PH more consistent over a 24 hr. period but assume as long as it never drops below 8 there is no need...
 

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This is a great writeup that helps challenge the dogma with data.

One thing I would add. The ocean, on coral reefs, fluctuates naturally from about 7.9 - about 8.1 every day. So low pH at night is normal, and stable pH is abnormal, unnatural.

When we discuss pH we should be discussing a range because pH isnt supposed to stay flat all day and night.
 
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Queen City Corals

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I struggled keeping PH above 8 at night and was looking into a scrubber. I ran an air line from skimmer to outside and it made a huge difference for me. It now bottoms out at 8.25 at night and raises to about 8.45 during the day. I dose 90mL of soda ash over a 24 hr. period. Ive wondered if there was something I could do different to make that PH more consistent over a 24 hr. period but assume as long as it never drops below 8 there is no need...
That's awesome, the only idea I have would be to add a refugium with a reverse light cycle to your display so that you have photosynthesis occurring 24/7.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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This is a great writeup that helps challenge the dogma with data.

One thing I would add. The ocean, on coral reefs, fluctuates naturally from about 7.9 - about 8.1 every day. So low pH at night is normal, and stable pH is abnormal, unnatural.

When we discuss pH we should be discussing a range because pH isnt supposed to stay flat all day and night.

What dogma is being challenged with data?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I struggled keeping PH above 8 at night and was looking into a scrubber. I ran an air line from skimmer to outside and it made a huge difference for me. It now bottoms out at 8.25 at night and raises to about 8.45 during the day. I dose 90mL of soda ash over a 24 hr. period. Ive wondered if there was something I could do different to make that PH more consistent over a 24 hr. period but assume as long as it never drops below 8 there is no need...

Increasing the aeration will flatten the day /night pH change.

Whether that is beneficial is a different question.

We try to address the possible benefits of pH stability (rather than low vs high) in this thread:

 

ID-Reefer

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That's awesome, the only idea I have would be to add a refugium with a reverse light cycle to your display so that you have photosynthesis occurring 24/7.
Yes I do have a refugium with reverse lighting cycle which I assume helps keep the range from being greater. My refugium currently just has sand and some rock and I haven't had a macro algae for growing for some time. So the only thing actually growing is coralline algae along with sponges, snails, pods, tube worms etc. Assume it makes no difference of what is in the refugium as much as it is the lighting as far as how it affects the PH?
 

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Daily fluctuations in pH are a normal feature of coral reefs
1634827360442.png

Also, note that most coral reefs rarely see a pH of 8.0 or above. Most of the time, they are just below 8.
source


Fluctuating pH enhances growth rates

1634827270923.png

source

Stable, high pH is neither natural nor beneficial. Reefers who seek stable, high pH are imposing a condition that does not happen in the ocean and does not appear to help.

Based on these data I believe reefers should just let your seawater do what seawater does at normal pCO2 and alkalinity, in my opinion.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Several points...

1. Not sure how pH stability being natural or desirable is dogma. As one of the most prolific reef chemistry writers, I'd have to think that if I have stated things hundreds of times, one cannot really say that "dogma" is the opposite of what I claim.

I have literally posted hundreds of times over many years in articles and threads exactly the opposite: the size of the swing doesn't concern me, it's the low pH end of things that concerns me.

"With that all said, however, I do not believe that the actual change in pH each day is particularly important. I won’t go into the reasoning behind this claim here, other than stating that it is my opinion, based on my understanding of how most organisms control their internal pH, but I do not believe that diurnal pH changes that stay within the range of pH 7.8 to 8.5 are particularly stressful to most reef organisms. "


2. The natural swing in the ocean has also been stated by me hundreds of times:

pH
The pH of seawater is typically stated to be 8.2 ± 0.1, but it can vary as photosynthesis consumes carbon dioxide locally and as respiration produces it. It also varies by latitude and is often lower where there is upwelling. It is also a function of depth for a variety of reasons, including photosynthesis near the surface, decomposition of organics in the mid-depths (dropping pH to as low as 7.5 by 1000 meters), and dissolution of calcium carbonate in very deep water (raising the pH back up to around 8). In closed lagoons, the pH can cycle from day to night just as in a reef aquarium, rising several tenths of a pH unit during the day. In special circumstances, seawater can be much lower in pH. Seawater in mangroves where highly reducing sediments are present can reduce the pH to below 7.0. In the open ocean, where there is a much larger volume of water containing buffers, the pH fluctuates little. As humans have added carbon dioxide to the atmosphere, more carbon dioxide has also been added to the oceans, with a consequent drop in pH. This is one of the impacts humans have had on the oceans that concerns ecologists in terms of its impact on calcifying organisms, especially on coral reefs but also on other systems involving such organisms as foraminiferans, which have calcareous skeletons and which are important links in many marine food webs.


3. The graph you posted above does show lower calcification at lower pH, doesn't it? Most data also does. That is the basis for my concern about pH going below 7.8
 
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Queen City Corals

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Yes I do have a refugium with reverse lighting cycle which I assume helps keep the range from being greater. My refugium currently just has sand and some rock and I haven't had a macro algae for growing for some time. So the only thing actually growing is coralline algae along with sponges, snails, pods, tube worms etc. Assume it makes no difference of what is in the refugium as much as it is the lighting as far as how it affects the PH?
The lighting doesn't do much for pH it is actually mostly the macro algae that is performing photosynthesis, it is absorbing CO2 and producing oxygen which helps to raise pH. I would definitely recommend adding some sort of macroalgae to the fuge, that should help with your lower night time pH.
 

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