The tank that started the bare bottom craze

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Belgian Anthias

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Probst, Karl, Jürgen Lange, en Regina Brendel. Elseviers groot zeeaquarium boek. Amsterdam: Elsevier, 1976.

A home reef aquarium set up following the original Dutch method. Using Caulerpa for filtration and decoration was common practice in the seventies.
 
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Cory

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Bomber was the first person I ever saw notate the paradox of adding peroxide into the reef aquarium causing orp drop vs the universally predicted spike. it was in 2009 in Randy’s forum, that turned out to be a constant pattern among tanks / thousands report it commonly now and none report the spike. neat pattern emergence at least.
Was he adding peroxide to his tank?
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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lol until i find the other one it will look like i backwards quoted

adding peroxide for sure lowers orp in reefs in post patterns, in a glass of no organics it might not.
checking for the other its buried deep
 
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I thought I was the only voice from the 70s around here. I was a young kid in the late 70s when I started my 1st tank! Using crushed coral and an under gravel filter powered by the Silent Giant pump. What a hoot! Then I had to do the Berlin method with a bare bottom and Kalkwasser...whatever that was! I remember I hated my 1st skimmer with the limewood air stone that would stop working after a few days.

I thought I reached reefing heaven when I got metal halides and a Thiel Platinum wet/dry with a built in venturi protein skimmer and slots for accessories.
 

Belgian Anthias

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I thought I was the only voice from the 70s around here. I was a young kid in the late 70s when I started my 1st tank! Using crushed coral and an under gravel filter powered by the Silent Giant pump. What a hoot! Then I had to do the Berlin method with a bare bottom and Kalkwasser...whatever that was! I remember I hated my 1st skimmer with the limewood air stone that would stop working after a few days.

I thought I reached reefing heaven when I got metal halides and a Thiel Platinum wet/dry with a built in venturi protein skimmer and slots for accessories.

Our first skimmer, a Sander counter-current skimmer, now almost 50 years old, is still used. Still using wooden air diverters made of beech wood, without any issues.
We also used wooden air diverters in an Aqua Medic flotor 5000., now 11 years in use. We changed to expensive calibrated air diverters a few years ago. Without much influence on performance.
Those simple counter-current skimmers are still competitive in performance compared to modern designs.
 

Midrats

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Our first skimmer, a Sander counter-current skimmer, now almost 50 years old, is still used. Still using wooden air diverters made of beech wood, without any issues.
We also used wooden air diverters in an Aqua Medic flotor 5000., now 11 years in use. We changed to expensive calibrated air diverters a few years ago. Without much influence on performance.
Those simple counter-current skimmers are still competitive in performance compared to modern designs.
My 25 year old Sander gets deployed occasionally in temporary set ups if needed. That thing coupled with a Schego always makes me smile.
 

Paul B

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I thought I was the only voice from the 70s around here. I was a young kid in the late 70s when I started my 1st tank! Using crushed coral and an under gravel filter powered by the Silent Giant pump.

Nope. I was an old "kid" in the late 70s, 9 years out of the Army by then and I also used a Sanders Skimmer for years until I started building them. Nice little product.
I still use my UG filter but not with the Silent Giant :p
 

Belgian Anthias

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1599146691559.png

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Probst, Karl, Jürgen Lange, en Regina Brendel. Elseviers groot zeeaquarium boek. Amsterdam: Elsevier, 1976.

A home reef aquarium set up following the original Dutch method. Using Caulerpa for filtration and decoration was common practice in the seventies.

That time we used big biofilters with compartments? First stage a mechanical filter, second stage a sand bed, third stage shell grit, fourth stage GAC. The third stage did not work very well. We removed the sandbed, made the second and third stage to become stage two using shell grit to support the nitrifying biofilms which resulted in a much better-buffered system. We still doing it this way.
 
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I thought I was the only voice from the 70s around here. I was a young kid in the late 70s when I started my 1st tank! Using crushed coral and an under gravel filter powered by the Silent Giant pump. What a hoot! Then I had to do the Berlin method with a bare bottom and Kalkwasser...whatever that was! I remember I hated my 1st skimmer with the limewood air stone that would stop working after a few days.

I thought I reached reefing heaven when I got metal halides and a Thiel Platinum wet/dry with a built in venturi protein skimmer and slots for accessories.

Sounds like me!! A 55g in '78 with crushed coral, ug filter, the printed paper background, the air wand across the back and decorative coral and sea fans. Don't forget the litle gang valve distributing air between the wand and the two ug filter risers.

And then around 87-ish I set up a 180 reef with full Thiel gear including the Platinum Series WD with is proprietary red bio balls and the add-on skimmer and reactor chambers.
 

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Nice tank! Are those t5s?
They are Phoenix 250 watt 14K double ended MH in lumen bright reflectors.
I started with 8T5's but changed them to MH's 4 months ago.
I run 1 Orphek blue plus led for dawn/dusk but it was not on in the pic.
 
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They are Phoenix 250 watt 14K double ended MH in lumen bright reflectors.
I started with 8T5's but changed them to MH's 4 months ago.
I run 1 Orphek blue plus led for dawn/dusk but it was not on in the pic.
Nice! Have you tried led?
 

90's reefer

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Nice! Have you tried led?
I ran a blackbox led on my 25 nano for about 2 years then switched to a 150 MH.
I now run it on my frag tank.
If I was to run all led I would run a bank of Orphek light bars.
I know a few reefers that have replaced their G4's with them with pretty amazing results
 
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I ran a blackbox led on my 25 nano for about 2 years then switched to a 150 MH.
I now run it on my frag tank.
If I was to run all led I would run a bank of Orphek light bars.
I know a few reefers that have replaced their G4's with them with pretty amazing results
They do look nice. Probably cost a small fortune for them though.
 

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They do look nice. Probably cost a small fortune for them though.
Not really.
I got my OR3 120 48" for $150 on black Friday.
I would run 5 if I was to run full led.
They run about $190.
Still cheaper than Radions.
1 replaces 2 T5's so you could run 3-4 on my 120 and always buy more when needed.
 
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Not really.
I got my OR3 120 48" for $150 on black Friday.
I would run 5 if I was to run full led.
They run about $190.
Still cheaper than Radions.
1 replaces 2 T5's so you could run 3-4 on my 120 and always buy more when needed.
Thats true. I like they are cheap enough to add them as you can afford them.
 
Fritz
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