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evolved

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There are a few subspecies in pylei, but all are pretty aggressive for fairy wrasses, and I would recommend against adding one, let alone more than one, to your tank.
+1
Not likely to go well.
 

mkutsch

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Hey guys, anyone know for certain what causes such coloration in Wetmorella albofasciata? I have one that changed from a dark pink to a full on orange.



Also, can someone identify? She's a bit agressive in my 2.3 gallon pico.;Smuggrin

IMG_4557.JPG
 
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evolved

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Hey guys, anyone know for certain what causes such coloration in Wetmorella albofasciata? I have one that changed from a dark pink to a full on orange.
Possibly related to diet. Did such change recently? What are you feeding?
 

mkutsch

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Nope been feeding same thing for several weeks. Basically, a mix of phyto, baby brine and 'reef mix.'
I've seen it before; the vast majority are just red. However, I have come across some that are more orangish in the front.
 

Nick M

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Stocking question. I was interested in getting a trio of hooded wrasses. Would I be able to add trio of flame wrasses later or a flame wrasse supermale? My tank is 200 gallons. My only fish are a moorish idol and regal angel.
 

evolved

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Stocking question. I was interested in getting a trio of hooded wrasses. Would I be able to add trio of flame wrasses later or a flame wrasse supermale? My tank is 200 gallons. My only fish are a moorish idol and regal angel.
The two species are compatible, but 3 males of each species are not.
I would absolutely avoid a trio of both and simply elect to keep only one of each specimen. The females of any trio are extremely likely to transition to male.
https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/pairing-wrasses-thats-not-how-any-of-this-works.3/
 

Ocelaris

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So I was trying to pick up a social acclimation box, but Elite Aquatics was out, so ZoaCollector had what looks to be a nice one and I have it ordered.



social-acclimation-box-lg-2.jpg


But then the Elite Aquatics responded that they had some limited edition orange ones. Any opinions on whether the orange is going to be distracting to the fish? I like the solid bottom, but don't really see a point in having 2 except I have 7 fish to introduce and might be nice to have an alternative?

20170323_204354-jpg.499693
 

mkutsch

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It might defeat the purpose of a clear bottom for introduction--I mean, that bit is obvious--but what is the point? I mean, it probably won't "distract" fish per say, however I do not think it will impact introduction a great deal.
 

Mike&Terry

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If it were me, I'd go for the one from Elite Aquatics. Opaque, smooth bottom is better - wrasses and other fish can damage their mouths on those holes in the bottom.
 

Ocelaris

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Mike&Terry

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Here's evolved's article for reference

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...n-this-thing-really-work.259070/#post-3069317

I think the point was to have an opaque bottom to reduce stress. I just need one before they have the white ones available, and although cool, just wasn't sure if that would be more stressful than white. Maybe it doesn't matter.

I don't believe the color will matter... you can always add a thin layer of sand in the bottom - I've done it many times with the clear bottom boxes.
 

Ocelaris

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I hadn't planned on putting the sand dwelling wrasses through the acclimation box for a long time, as they're my first sand dwellers, but do you put a sand bed in there for them to sleep normally?

I think I'm going to pick up the orange one. Thanks
 

Mike&Terry

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I hadn't planned on putting the sand dwelling wrasses through the acclimation box for a long time, as they're my first sand dwellers, but do you put a sand bed in there for them to sleep normally?

I think I'm going to pick up the orange one. Thanks
Yes, I just place a shallow plastic container of sand in the box before adding fish.
 

evolved

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I don't believe the color will matter... you can always add a thin layer of sand in the bottom - I've done it many times with the clear bottom boxes.
Agree; doubt the color will matter as well. And covering the clear bottom with anything will take care of the issue the clear bottom can present.
 

saltyhog

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So I was trying to pick up a social acclimation box, but Elite Aquatics was out, so ZoaCollector had what looks to be a nice one and I have it ordered.



social-acclimation-box-lg-2.jpg


But then the Elite Aquatics responded that they had some limited edition orange ones. Any opinions on whether the orange is going to be distracting to the fish? I like the solid bottom, but don't really see a point in having 2 except I have 7 fish to introduce and might be nice to have an alternative?

20170323_204354-jpg.499693

Be careful with the Elite Aquatics version. The corners and the cutouts on mine have very sharp edges. I've cut myself putting it and taking it out of my tank.
 

evolved

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Be careful with the Elite Aquatics version. The corners and the cutouts on mine have very sharp edges. I've cut myself putting it and taking it out of my tank.
And just imagine that those edges are tame compared to an older "4coral" one that I have. I've sliced open a finger or two pretty good on that one!
 

R€€F @DD¡ÇT

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How aggressive are cirrhilabrus cyanopleura?

Will these mix in a 75g:

Diamond tail flasher/Linespot flasher
Cyanopleura
orangeback fairy
Yellow banded Possum
Solorensis/Exquisite

I currently have a whip fin but will get rid of it.
 

eatbreakfast

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How aggressive are cirrhilabrus cyanopleura?

Will these mix in a 75g:

Diamond tail flasher/Linespot flasher
Cyanopleura
orangeback fairy
Yellow banded Possum
Solorensis/Exquisite

I currently have a whip fin but will get rid of it.
They are medium aggressive for fairy wrasses. However, they are in the same complex of species as the orangeback and solorensis, so wouldn't work with those species in a 75g.
 

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