The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

Picked up a Cirrhilabrus solorensis for my 40 gal Coral QT Tank while my basement is being reno'ed for my larger tank, beautiful fish.
Did a methyl blue dip on it, a little bit of damage showed up but not bad. Fish is eating well.

Going to begin chloroquine phosphate on it soon. CP worked on my lubbocks before it jumped while doing a water change (Cover was off :( ) I'm a little worried to do CP on it but as I stated my Lubbocks was fine.

Anyone try CP on Solorenis?

@Humblefish @melypr1985

At this point we can't suggest CP with any wrasses as we have seen way too many bad reactions to it from wrasses. It's safer to use copper with them if you can.
 
Anyone try CP on Solorenis?

Not that species, but I have used CP on other Cirrhilabrus genus wrasses with success.

However, the Internet is full of anecdotal accounts of Cirrhilabrus dying (after about a week) once exposed to CP. So I highly suggest using Coppersafe (or TTM) on all wrasses at this time.
 
At this point we can't suggest CP with any wrasses as we have seen way too many bad reactions to it from wrasses. It's safer to use copper with them if you can.

Not that species, but I have used CP on other Cirrhilabrus genus wrasses with success.

However, the Internet is full of anecdotal accounts of Cirrhilabrus dying (after about a week) once exposed to CP. So I highly suggest using Coppersafe (or TTM) on all wrasses at this time.

Thank you pros.
 
any reason using Hypo for quarantining would not be recommended for a fairy wrasse? (red hooded)
 
any reason using Hypo for quarantining would not be recommended for a fairy wrasse? (red hooded)

The biggest reason is that there are hypo resistant strains of ich that have been proven to exist. The next biggest reason is that it's difficult to execute properly.
 
Agree with melypr1985. For me TTM is the easiest to perform. A little labor intensive but not really a hardship. The only shortcoming is you still have to observe for velvet/brook as TTM is only effective against ich.
 
Agree with melypr1985. For me TTM is the easiest to perform. A little labor intensive but not really a hardship. The only shortcoming is you still have to observe for velvet/brook as TTM is only effective against ich.
I work out of town so copper for me.
 
any reason using Hypo for quarantining would not be recommended for a fairy wrasse? (red hooded)
Along with what melypr1985 aaid, I have found fairy and flasher wrasses don't handle the low salinity of a true hypo-treatment.
 
The katherinae that are available are a veey peaceful Cirrhilabrus species, and can be pretty timid around more assertive fairy wrasse species.
That's what I'd read :) The tank is pretty peaceful so I'm not overly worried about aggression issues from other fish :)
 
Can you guys help me narrow down my choices? I'm really having a lot of trouble deciding which to go with. [emoji23] I have a 90g (4ft) tank, with 2 Clownfish, 2 jawfish, an Earmuff Wrasse and a Hooded fairy wrasse. The only other wrasse I know that I want for sure is a clown fairy (C. solorensis), and probably a Leopard but the rest is up in the air. Here are some that I've been looking at:
Lubbocks
Pintail
Exquisite
McCoskers Flasher
Blue Flasher
Royal flasher
Radiant


I would love to add them all but I just feel like it would be too many fish (any thoughts?). Are there any on this list that you feel are "must haves" or any that you think might not be that special? I just can't decide.
I won't comment on the special/not special part of the question, as that's entirely a matter of personal taste. Go with what appeals to you!
As for compatibility, everything there is fine. I feel that "all of them" would be a bit many in the tank, but take a couple off the list and it would look fine.
Hey @evolved , what are your thoughts one buying females/submales instead of males/terminal males to save on cash. I don't mind getting them because they are significantly less expensive. After a while in a tank with other fairy wrasse (of other species) that would probably help push them to turn male right? What do you think?
It's a great way to proceed, for the reasons you mention plus those stated by others above. I don't ever buy a terminal male unless it's the only choice I have to obtain the species.
It is a great way to save money and the bonus is you get to watch the really neat transition. I've done it with a few of my wrasse.

The ONLY down side for me is I'm terrible at identifying the species in females.....and unfortunately many LFS and online vendors are too. Not a huge deal unless you are shelling out for a more expensive species and end up with a less expensive one. C. pylei seems to be misidentified quite often as other species.
Agree with that risk, and the other risk worth mentioning is that you will occasionally end up with females that never transition. And it is pretty impossible to predict, as this will depend on the social hierarchy of the tank and of the aggressiveness of the particular specimen at hand.
 
Recently finished qt with 2 wrasse, ruby head and katoi wrasse. Can't get a good pic of the Katoi but here's the ruby headed wrasse... Cell phone pic is not so great. He is way more beautiful and colorful than this...

ruby wrasse.jpg
 
Question for wrasse lovers. I have a 215g tank and my wife and i love wrasses more then anything. We are wanting to put more wrasses in our tank but im worried about them not getting along and fughting. Right now they all get along great. We have 2 baby draggons, ( once they start to show aggression ill be bringing them back) 1 leopard. And a flasher. The dragons i know wont be in the tank for ever i just know they are peacful as babies. So for now im enjoying them.

So with the others what are sone good ones to mix in. Not worried about reef safe or not. Only going to do mostly leathers and maybe lps in the tank. And not worried about inverts as well. Just want some great amazing wrasses.
 
In a tank that size you could have a bunch of wrasse. You could have several Halichoeres wrasse (one of my favorite genus, several fairy wrasse and several flasher wrasse. You might be able to add more Macropharyngodon (leopard wrasse) as long as you add females. Check out evolved's sticky thread above "All About Reef Safe Wrasse In Aquaria" above. It will help you avoid aggression with the fairy wrasse. Post back here for other types of wrasse and I'm sure one of our two resident experts will answer.


PS. Get your self an acclimation box and use it. You are gonna have fun!
 
In a tank that size you could have a bunch of wrasse. You could have several Halichoeres wrasse (one of my favorite genus, several fairy wrasse and several flasher wrasse. You might be able to add more Macropharyngodon (leopard wrasse) as long as you add females. Check out evolved's sticky thread above "All About Reef Safe Wrasse In Aquaria" above. It will help you avoid aggression with the fairy wrasse. Post back here for other types of wrasse and I'm sure one of our two resident experts will answer.


PS. Get your self an acclimation box and use it. You are gonna have fun!
Everything said here is spot on!
 
given how important it is to have a secure top, what do people do when they have an over the top return, an auto feeder, and wires that need to come from the tank? Are people able to make more custom tops that cut out the space needed?
 
given how important it is to have a secure top, what do people do when they have an over the top return, an auto feeder, and wires that need to come from the tank? Are people able to make more custom tops that cut out the space needed?
Eggcrate
 
It is a great way to save money and the bonus is you get to watch the really neat transition. I've done it with a few of my wrasse.

The ONLY down side for me is I'm terrible at identifying the species in females.....and unfortunately many LFS and online vendors are too. Not a huge deal unless you are shelling out for a more expensive species and end up with a less expensive one. C. pylei seems to be misidentified quite often as other species.

That's the way I've done it for most of my higher end collectors
 

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