Theoretical tank time!

Xdub4314

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Hello everyone,
This is my first thread here, sadly it is not an actual build thread but I have been thinking of some ideas and trying to find the faults in my plan. I really love the aesthetic and functionality of a minimalist reef, less equipment to fail right?

The animal that brought me into the hobby was Tridacna clams and with aqua-cultured crocea clams popping up I think now is the time to finally keep one. To accompany my clam I would like some of the easier sps such as seriatopora, stylophora, pocillopora and montipora. Finally I think a little trapezia crab would act like a king in a throne of corals and in a nano tank I would get to better observe the symbiotic relationship. I can picture all of these things on some nice established ton branch that allows lots of negative space for design and flow. I have decided to skip fish because they would have the highest bioload in the tank and I would rather directly feed foods that coral can eat rather then rely of the fish waste. After some research I found that the creatures I am trying to keep need foods like microplankton all the way up to zooplankton so I think a few different liquid suspensions like Brightwell aquatics zooplanktos-s 50-300 micron should suffice. I will occasionally feed the crab a piece of mysis or some other meaty food depending on if he has enough food from the detritus, mucous and trapped foods alone.

So my current plan for equipment is either a 60u (20.5 gal) or 45u (9.3 gal) UNS tank with some contact paper as a background to keep the clean illusion. I have really grown to dislike the plain black background, in my opinion partially opaque looks more natural. A simple glass lid should largely cut down on evaporation and lessen swings of salinity. For flow a MP10 wave maker that you can find used and in good condition, which looks nice and hopefully has enough power and features to keep everything flowing as the corals fill in. I have been quite excited for the launch of Ecotech's versa dosing pumps and I think they would work well as an auto water change system. I have a few options for lights depending on which size tank I go with. I coud use kessil a80s, ai primes or possibly find a used ecotech radion. Any reliable heater with a temp sensor hidden behind the rock work should do. I think keeping the tank at 74 degrees should allow better oxygenation since I am using a lid. Jake Adams from reef builders says that when he keeps sps at lower temps he sees better coloration most likely due to the higher available oxygen and the higher ph because of it.There should be less temp swings at a lower temp because with the AWC I would like if I didn't have to heat it so it would only be about a 3 degree difference instead of 7 or 8. However minuscule it may be it also uses less electricity to keep the temp lower.

That should cover lighting, flow, heat and most chemistry. I am most concerned about salinity swings from the AWC and I really dont want to make even more clutter with an ATO. The great thing is as the corals are consuming more calcium I can just increase water changes. AWC seems like the best route because the fluctations are more gradual and I wont risk getting air into my clam. Not to mention I only have to run two tiny clear tubes into the tank.

With just estimated pricing I am at $600 with just the equipment alone not to mention the at least $100 clam and other inhabitants or test kits, foods, rodi filters, and salt.

If you have any suggestions on how to make this more sustainable or less expensive please let me know, I am a student after all ;)
 

Idoc

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Well, I am no clam or mollusk expert, lol. Your question doesn't seem to be getting any traction in this forum. A little further down the list of forums is one specifically for clams. You might want to pose the idea there to see if anyone watches that forum closely with clam expertise?
 

VR28man

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I like the tank concept.

A few things:

- assuming you're in the US, croceas are relatively hard to find and expensive. Tridacna maxima is relatively common and affordable. I would recommend the cultured ones from @PacificEastAquaculture , though I think their main tridacna import season has ended, and generally won't be back until the summer.

ORA has some:

- Both T. crocea and maxima are shallow water clams. Maxima lives on upper reef slopes (as do the corals you mentioned), and gets a lot of light and flow. Crocea lives on the tops of upper reef crests, and even more so reef flats and inshore areas, and gets even more light and surge.

- note that Seriatopora, stylopora generally live on upper reef slopes and reef crests, which is more light than most montipora species get. I'd focus on the first two. Most pocillopora are also upper reef slope and reef crest species, BUT far and away the most common species in the hobby, Pocillopora damicornis, grows in just about every reef zone.

All that said, I like Pocillopora verrucosa much better than damicornis, though this is decidedly an upper reef slope/reef crest species (ie lots of light and indirect flow). Ref:


My opinions:

I think you'd need more light and flow than an MP10 and a Kessil A80. I had an A360 right on top of my maxima, my maxima did fine with it, but I was disappointed by its ability to grow branching SPS (to include seriatopora, etc.) and its shading/narrow LED strip. I've since dumped LEDs for T5s (far more cost effective IMO), but if I were to get an LED I'd get something around 80w of LED for the tank you're planning for. I'm sure radions, orphek, etc. are really good. I've been recommended Ocean Revive T247s, which I might try due to price if I got back into LEDs. In your case, I'd get one of those for your tank, and gradually ramp it up to full.

As far as flow, I use the Vortech MP series because I like the firmware and controllability (I am looking to pseudo-replicate tidal flows). But for a small tank like the one you're proposing i might just get a 2-3 small jebaos and put them on random mode all day, and ramp them down all night. Much more cost effective and a good simulation of your upper reef slope,
 
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Xdub4314

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I like the tank concept.

A few things:

- assuming you're in the US, croceas are relatively hard to find and expensive. Tridacna maxima is relatively common and affordable. I would recommend the cultured ones from @PacificEastAquaculture , though I think their main tridacna import season has ended, and generally won't be back until the summer.

ORA has some:

- Both T. crocea and maxima are shallow water clams. Maxima lives on upper reef slopes (as do the corals you mentioned), and gets a lot of light and flow. Crocea lives on the tops of upper reef crests, and even more so reef flats and inshore areas, and gets even more light and surge.

- note that Seriatopora, stylopora generally live on upper reef slopes and reef crests, which is more light than most montipora species get. I'd focus on the first two. Most pocillopora are also upper reef slope and reef crest species, BUT far and away the most common species in the hobby, Pocillopora damicornis, grows in just about every reef zone.

All that said, I like Pocillopora verrucosa much better than damicornis, though this is decidedly an upper reef slope/reef crest species (ie lots of light and indirect flow). Ref:


My opinions:

I think you'd need more light and flow than an MP10 and a Kessil A80. I had an A360 right on top of my maxima, my maxima did fine with it, but I was disappointed by its ability to grow branching SPS (to include seriatopora, etc.) and its shading/narrow LED strip. I've since dumped LEDs for T5s (far more cost effective IMO), but if I were to get an LED I'd get something around 80w of LED for the tank you're planning for. I'm sure radions, orphek, etc. are really good. I've been recommended Ocean Revive T247s, which I might try due to price if I got back into LEDs. In your case, I'd get one of those for your tank, and gradually ramp it up to full.

As far as flow, I use the Vortech MP series because I like the firmware and controllability (I am looking to pseudo-replicate tidal flows). But for a small tank like the one you're proposing i might just get a 2-3 small jebaos and put them on random mode all day, and ramp them down all night. Much more cost effective and a good simulation of your upper reef slope,

Thank you for such an excellent response!
There is currently aqua-cultured croceas on live aquaria's website and they are only $100. I guess the main reasons I want a crocea is 1. because they are more rare/unique 2. because supposedly they are smaller 3. because I am obsessed with coral_fish_zoa's crocea on instagram! I think you bring up a fair point. I could probably find a maxima that looks just as good and it will probably cost less. In addition I would be more comfortable with a clam that does not require inshore conditions.

I was able to find a duplicate of the 45U for only $70 and i think its 0.3 more gallons :p
Assuming I went with the smaller 9.6 gallon tank I have a new lower cost plan.
Since finding poccilopora verrocusa seems to be impossible that rules out the trapezia crab, unless I keep acropora. One main requirement is that I can leave my tank for a week untouched so that on mot vacations I dont need someone to mess with it. So with the 9.6 gal do you think 2 A80s or 2 AI primes and a MP10 will do? I mean a MP10 is rated for 1,500+ gph. I already have an A80 and an Ai prime.

On a 9 gal tank I think a $300 dollar AWC system seems excessive. If all I had was a few stylos, seris and a maxima could I get away with a lid to mitigate evaporation, weekly water changes and possibly a dosing pump with tropic marin's all for reef?
I think basically this is turning into a coral tank instead of a reef, similar to Jake Adams' eco reefs.
 

VR28man

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You're welcome!

I was able to find a duplicate of the 45U for only $70 and i think its 0.3 more gallons :p
Assuming I went with the smaller 9.6 gallon tank I have a new lower cost plan.
Since finding poccilopora verrocusa seems to be impossible that rules out the trapezia crab, unless I keep acropora. One main requirement is that I can leave my tank for a week untouched so that on mot vacations I dont need someone to mess with it. So with the 9.6 gal do you think 2 A80s or 2 AI primes and a MP10 will do? I mean a MP10 is rated for 1,500+ gph. I already have an A80 and an Ai prime.

On a 9 gal tank I think a $300 dollar AWC system seems excessive. If all I had was a few stylos, seris and a maxima could I get away with a lid to mitigate evaporation, weekly water changes and possibly a dosing pump with tropic marin's all for reef?
I think basically this is turning into a coral tank instead of a reef, similar to Jake Adams' eco reefs.

Seriously, ask @PacificEastAquaculture for a frag when you are ready for one. They only put them up intermittently, but can put one up for you often by request.

Again, I've had poor results with branching SPS and Kessils (1x A360 and 1x A160 on a 30x12x19 tank, SPS at the top with around 250 nominal par). I don't know what I'd recommend, but if you're set on LEDs I'd recommend one with a wider array of LEDs than the Kessils or even the AI Hydras.

The MP10 I'm sure will work fine, but I think two (say, Jebaos) smaller pumps would be better than one bigger one.

Finally, I think a cheaper ATO is good enough. That size tank you can just pour in distilled water from the grocery store, conceivably. I might also use http://www.autoaqua.com.tw/en/sato-120p.html

I use all for reef. I'm quite happy with it so far, though I haven't used it enough to make a full judgment.

Looking forward to your build! Feel free to ask for further opinions (with the caveat that they are worth what you pay for them :D ).
 

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