Thinking of getting a controller finally

Spare time

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Hi everyone,
I'm thinking of making the plunge into controller world.
I'm not sure what I want to get. I like the Neptune products, because of the apex and Trident testing.
I'm not sure if it's worth getting the standard apex or the EL version. I've read lots of positive and negative responses to both.

I was also looking at HYDROS Control X4, but I'm almost more confused about it then before I even looked at it.

I was also looking at the mastertronic and ghl products, but they are almost impossible to get.


I personally still like the Xbox 360 controller myself.
 

Forty-Two

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I have GHL and would not recommend it.

The Profilux itself is ‘ok’ - however if you’re using European plugs - the control power bar is not grounded - so that’s pretty much useless as most of my plugs are *shocked* 3 prongs and not 2!

That and the dosing pumps are terrible. I have constant issues with air in the lines unless I go out and buy special connector pieces with barbs, use RedSea tubing and also use zip ties. It seriously should not be so frustrating and hard to make the dosing pumps not get air in them and have to prime them all of the time - but the GHL tubing (which I have) is garbage, as is the flimsy tubing connectors. So what they ship with the pumps can’t really be used.

The GHL director is probably the worst piece of equipment I’ve had to work with. It’s finicky, very difficult to setup and at times unreliable.

Last but not least - the graphing options and user interface on the GHL app to look at trends is also terrible.

All of those negative bits being said - the probes are good and the data from temp, salinity and PH is great just to keep an eye on the health of your tank.
 

Rmckoy

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What really sets a controller apart from a smart timer is the ability to set up complicated contingencies. For my tank, I get the most using the controller for over heating emergencies. If my tank gets to a certain temp, I turn off the bulb on the UV. If it's still too hot, I turn off the pump on the UV. If the temp is still too high, I turn off the main light, if it's still too hot, I turn off all lights.

I've not set up a controller with a salinity probe yet, but I love the idea of getting a notification to my phone of the salinity is out of wack.
In reality …. The only way salinity should drop that fast is if the ato is running constantly to compensate for a large leak .

I understand over heating . I run 8 bulb t5’s which do generate a lot of heat but the air conditioning keeps it at a constant temp . Minor drops at night where the heater might come on through the night ….
Perhaps just trusting things too much I’m having a hard time justifying or putting all trust in a controller .

I got into reefing and loved everything about it from the start .
including the tasks everyone is wanting to automate .
 

Chrisv.

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In reality …. The only way salinity should drop that fast is if the ato is running constantly to compensate for a large leak .

I understand over heating . I run 8 bulb t5’s which do generate a lot of heat but the air conditioning keeps it at a constant temp . Minor drops at night where the heater might come on through the night ….
Perhaps just trusting things too much I’m having a hard time justifying or putting all trust in a controller .

I got into reefing and loved everything about it from the start .
including the tasks everyone is wanting to automate .

I've had so many overheating issues in the past. I used to run 2x400w mh and 2x vhos on a 90 gallon tank. Chiller took care of it most of the time, but the contingency plan was enacted by the controller a few times.

I also really benefitted from data collection and logging-- particularly pH.

I did use the controller to handle my CO2 solenoid for my calcium reactor, and as a failsafe to turn off the calcium reactor if the pH in the display dropped too low.
 

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