Time to replace heaters - Recommendations?

[North Borders]

Hey all - Bought a handful of Cobalt Neotherms a few years ago for my Reefer250. They've slowly died one by one and I'm at the point where I'm ready to fully replace them. I got lucky and got 3-6 years out of all of them.

I do have an Apex with a temp probe. I would like to set up a second fail safe by running a temperature controller such as an Inkbird or the Helios.

I'm looking at the Helios system and also Inkbird + BRS titanium heaters. Question on these. I have seen several mention they use the Apex to "control" the inkbird presumably shutting it on and off throughout the day. Does that cause wear and tear on the control panel of the Inkbird/Helios by turning on and off all the time? Also, presumably the Inkbird would have to reconnect to wifi each time as well? Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I would imagine the better way to go would be to set your temperature range parameters on the Apex higher and lower than the 2ndary controller and just have alarms and kill commands for the Apex if the 2ndary controller would fail or get stuck "on"?

My Apex is older, so I don't think I'm able to see wattage on it, just AMP usage.

Second question, BRS sells their titanium heaters as 100W (up to 40 gal) and 200W (up to 75 gal). I could go a couple routes -- two 100's, but I imagine they would both be on quite a bit. Or two 200's- one in the tank and one in my closet as an emergency option :)
Also see Helios makes one that's 350W (50-85 gal) and a dual 200W (50-100 gal; seems overkill)

Finally, Helios or Bulk Reef? I see Bulk Reef sells different combos now. You can buy "full" Helios with their heaters, or a Helios controller with BRS heaters. Or would you do an Inkbird with BRS heaters? :)

 

[tsharpe291]

I have full helios, no complaints. keeps temp pretty steady.

 

[minus9]

I use the Helio universal controller with BRS branded schego heaters. 100w and 300w heaters have been rock solid.

 

[CoralB]

Welcome :

 

[CoralB]

Welcome :

 

[BryanM]

I run two helios, apex, in to two outlets, and have programming set up to run each heater individually from 00:00-11:59, and 12:00-23:59. Logic to turn both on if somehow temps got below a certain threshold.... And more logic if a heater is not working the other will do the job.

 

[C_AWOL]

Been using eheim jaegers since they were called ebo jaegers. Aside from wanting to try others just for knowledge, they remain my tried and true to this day.

 

[North Borders]

Been using eheim jaegers since they were called ebo jaegers. Aside from wanting to try others just for knowledge, they remain my tried and true to this day.

TY for the reply! I ran Eheim at one point, but it doesn't fit in my sump anymore with the other equipment I have. They're SO BIG lol

 

[North Borders]

I use the Helio universal controller with BRS branded schego heaters. 100w and 300w heaters have been rock solid.

You run a 100W with a 300W? How has that been working for you?

 

[North Borders]

I have full helios, no complaints. keeps temp pretty steady.

Do you use the Helios alone or with an Apex?? Are you running their heating elements?

 

[tsharpe291]

im currently using it alone, I do plan on hooking it up to my hydros though.
I am using the innovative marine elements

 

[Ranjib]

I’ll go with cobalt neotherm again over controlling temperature through controller directly. This is because neotherm has the best (less than half a degree) temperature swing , among all the other heaters. There’s no real benefit in controlling temperature beyond this. On the other hand if you control the heater externally the relays go through unnecessary wear and tear . It is however useful to have a controller to act as a safe guard and notify you if temperature is out of bounds, and turn off the heater when temperature is above the desired level, this mitigates the common heater induced failure and it also gives you the visibility on tanks temperature trend.

So, my vote is to use controller only for safety and the normal temperature control should be left on the heater itself, and neotherm has the best internal temperature control among fluval, hygger and the other ones.

 

[LivingCorals Youtube]

I have full helios, no complaints. keeps temp pretty steady.

ive had alot of problems with my inovative marine

 

[North Borders]

ive had alot of problems with my inovative marine

TY for the reply - what sorts of problems have you had with yours?

 

[LivingCorals Youtube]

TY for the reply - what sorts of problems have you had with yours?

You have to make sure the sensor is pretty clean or you'll start to get alot of error codes. I actually had a problem today with it that my heater went out and lowered the temp to 72 degrees. So sensor errors and remote sensor errors

 

[North Borders]

I’ll go with cobalt neotherm again over controlling temperature through controller directly. This is because neotherm has the best (less than half a degree) temperature swing , among all the other heaters. There’s no real benefit in controlling temperature beyond this. On the other hand if you control the heater externally the relays go through unnecessary wear and tear . It is however useful to have a controller to act as a safe guard and notify you if temperature is out of bounds, and turn off the heater when temperature is above the desired level, this mitigates the common heater induced failure and it also gives you the visibility on tanks temperature trend.

So, my vote is to use controller only for safety and the normal temperature control should be left on the heater itself, and neotherm has the best internal temperature control among fluval, hygger and the other ones.

Agree on the NeoTherm's control - I will probably continue to use them in my QT tank and salt water mixing tubs. Doesn't appear that Cobalt is around any more? or making heaters anyway. BRS has the Aquacel brand that looks like it, and they're supposedly the same. I have also seen a lot of horror stories of the NeoTherms shattering on their own and nuking tanks, so a little hesitant to continue using them as they die.

 

[North Borders]

You have to make sure the sensor is pretty clean or you'll start to get alot of error codes. I actually had a problem today with it that my heater went out and lowered the temp to 72 degrees. So sensor errors and remote sensor errors

That does NOT sound fun :/

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

My Hygeer titanium heater has worked amazingly the last 3 years.

 

[North Borders]

My Hygeer titanium heater has worked amazingly the last 3 years.

Is that the German brand that BRS is relabeling?

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

I’m not sure. I got it off Amazon. Sounds German though.