Des Moines, well Johnston, a suburb. Always nice to have some midwesterners!
Tips for first clam? Easiest species?
IME just detectable levels are fine, as are elevated ones long as it's not outside what most keep tanks at. That is 0.1 po4 and 10-20 NO3.
My system has a lot of clams connected to SPS tank... too many clams! They deplete phosphate and nitrate really fast and I had SPS issues until I realized what was happening. My phosphate bottomed out, which I didn't think was possible as I have auto pellet feeder 6x a day plus I add baby brine shrimp. But some acros started to bleach, others got brown and dry looking. I started adding neophos and used an entire bottle before levels became detectable again, no other changes, and the coral totally recovered.
I took my chaeto offline and now have even needed to start dosing phosphate and ammonia (I prefer ammonia over nitrate) to keep 0.05 PO4 (i would rather have 0.1) and 5-10ppm NO3.
Bryan68
Well-Known Member
So in your experience, would 40 ppm NO3 and 0.16 po4 be too high for a dersa?
Vette67
Reefing since 1997
I agree with this. I have a purple tang (and a bristeltooth that pays no attention to my clam), but the purple almost constantly picks at the mucous on my derasa. The derasa is to the point where it barely pulls in anymore from the tang. It's almost like the clam is just used to the tang picking. The tang never damages the mantle, just picks the mucous off, or whatever it's doing. So I think clams can get used to picking that does no actual damage. But there's a reason I have no angels in my tank.
The only thing I'll add is that if you go with a sqauamosa or derasa, ones that grow quickly, be prepared for the extra calcium consumption. My derasa has grown almost 3 inches of new shell in the last year, and it sucks down a LOT of calcium. I can only imagine how much calcium you must go through with SPS and that many clams!
Here's my tang nipping at the mantle, and the clam is more or less "indifferent".
I suspect it would be ok, but it's higher than I have run a system at. That being said I have heard of derasa being in even higher nutrient tanks, but I can't vouch for it.
I agree with this. I have a purple tang (and a bristeltooth that pays no attention to my clam), but the purple almost constantly picks at the mucous on my derasa. The derasa is to the point where it barely pulls in anymore from the tang. It's almost like the clam is just used to the tang picking. The tang never damages the mantle, just picks the mucous off, or whatever it's doing. So I think clams can get used to picking that does no actual damage. But there's a reason I have no angels in my tank.
The only thing I'll add is that if you go with a sqauamosa or derasa, ones that grow quickly, be prepared for the extra calcium consumption. My derasa has grown almost 3 inches of new shell in the last year, and it sucks down a LOT of calcium. I can only imagine how much calcium you must go through with SPS and that many clams!
Here's my tang nipping at the mantle, and the clam is more or less "indifferent".
That is amazing, and it's awesome that the clam got used to it! I would caution people that it is not guaranteed the clam would become ok with the picking and it could have easily resulted in the clam starving from not enough light but I am really happy to see it can turn out ok too.
Bryan68
Well-Known Member
Coralsdaily
Well-Known Member
Unless you are strongly oriented towards a clam, if you simply want a mollusk you can also consider thorny oyster, super cool to look at and an excellent filter feeder can survive in any lighting.
But among the symbiotic clams, my personal opinion derasa is the most forgiving. Id' also suggest you get ones that are no smaller than 3-4" for better chances of success.
But among the symbiotic clams, my personal opinion derasa is the most forgiving. Id' also suggest you get ones that are no smaller than 3-4" for better chances of success.
Vette67
Reefing since 1997
Good point. I can only speak from my experience. And perhaps a derasas is more tolerant than say a maxima. But that would only be a guess on my part....
drblakjak55
Active Member
Bought a five inch blue maxima now six inches in two years. My tiger Derasa was three inches two years ago and now over six. 90g mixed reef running nitrates at 40 and phosphate at 0.5. Ca 492. Mg 1400. Alk 7.
drblakjak55
Active Member
Cam_official
Community Member
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For maximas I've found 300 PAR to be the sweet spot for lighting.
Keeping stable and detectable nitrates and phosphates also seems like it helps keep them healthy.
ALWAYS quarantine new clams before adding them to a system with existing clams. I learned this the hard way when I lost my very healthy 6" maxima and 5" Noae after adding a new blue squamosa. . .
If possible, put new clams in a fish-free environment for the first few months. I've found it helps them to recover from the shipping stress and adjust to proper lighting when they have nothing to react to or be stressed by. It also makes the transition to the reef environment an easier adjustment when they're already healthy and can handle the stress of being around a bunch of fish.
Keeping stable and detectable nitrates and phosphates also seems like it helps keep them healthy.
ALWAYS quarantine new clams before adding them to a system with existing clams. I learned this the hard way when I lost my very healthy 6" maxima and 5" Noae after adding a new blue squamosa. . .
If possible, put new clams in a fish-free environment for the first few months. I've found it helps them to recover from the shipping stress and adjust to proper lighting when they have nothing to react to or be stressed by. It also makes the transition to the reef environment an easier adjustment when they're already healthy and can handle the stress of being around a bunch of fish.
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