Triton vs. Aquamedic AWT vs. Hobbyist kits API Salifert Elos RedSea Hanna etc

[jason2459]

Like Randy said 736 is more accurate in the lowest ranges with a higher resolution.

I reviewed the differences among other PO4 kits here.
https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/222628/

If you already have the 713 it will do.

 

[huskerreefatl]

Like Randy said 736 is more accurate in the lowest ranges with a higher resolution.

I reviewed the differences among other PO4 kits here.
https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/222628/

If you already have the 713 it will do.

That is a great thread, thanks.

 

[huskerreefatl]

I just observed something. When i use an API test kit, I just fill up to the 5 ml line by dipping it in the tank and pouring out the excess but today i used a syringe where i pulled out exactly 5 ml and added it to the test tube and it is above the line. So is their 5 ml on the test tube not really 5 mls?

 

[jason2459]

I just observed something. When i use an API test kit, I just fill up to the 5 ml line by dipping it in the tank and pouring out the excess but today i used a syringe where i pulled out exactly 5 ml and added it to the test tube and it is above the line. So is their 5 ml on the test tube not really 5 mls?

Sometimes. Many are off and if you have several that you stand side by side you may see some lower or higher then the rest. Not all syringes are very accurate either.

But at the small amount of water difference and because its not a very high resolution it makes little difference in the final result. So, you can go ahead and use the mark on the vial just fine. I use a syringe that I know is accurate only because I'm anal about it.

 

[jason2459]

They both use the same basic test method. The only difference is the effectiverange of detection and the error bars on the answer. The 713 is +/- 0.04 ppm and the 736 is +/- 0.15 ppm (when converted into ppm phosphate units)

Just caught this but I believe you meant the 736 is +/- 0.015ppm once converted from the +/- 5ppb

 

[jason2459]

I went ahead and added tracking to the shipping and the vials have been delivered and in California. Now the wait to have them shipped over to Germany and get tested.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Just caught this but I believe you meant the 736 is +/- 0.015ppm once converted from the +/- 5ppb

Yes, thanks. I fixed my typo.

 

[jason2459]

Quick check of parameters tonight. I should have the Triton results in tomorrow.


Salinity: 34ppt veegee/vitalsine

Apex readings for the pH and Temp

Alk: 10dkh API

Calcium: 440 API

Mg: ~1485-1500 Salifert

Nitrate: <2ppm (didn't even try matching from the side. )


Phosphates:
7ppb phosphorus or 0.021 ppm phosphates converted.

 

[LostInTheDark]

My SPS have not been doing well lately and I have lost several colonies. Softies are doing great. I sent away to Triton to make sure nothing got in my tank but it all looks good to me. I have fallen victim to The Ocean Revive issue where the blues have lost much of their par. I have 4 S026s over a 225. I have repaired all but 1 and am waiting for my order to come in to fix that one.
My test are usually very consistent:
Alk 8 Salifert and Red Sea
Cal 450 Salifert and Red Sea
Nitrates .05 Salifert
Mag 1300 Salifert
Phos .03 -.05 Hanna Ultra low

I run A fuge where I toss a basketball chunk of Cheato every month or so, Bio-pellets and carbon. I only use GFO very rarely. I have a good bio load and feed heavy but have zero algae issues. Tank is almost on auto pilot as far as stability.
I also have an issue where Zoas and mushrooms don't grow. They shrink and just sit there sometimes wasting away.

Thanks for any input.
Tom

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

My SPS have not been doing well lately and I have lost several colonies. Softies are doing great. I sent away to Triton to make sure nothing got in my tank but it all looks good to me. I have fallen victim to The Ocean Revive issue where the blues have lost much of their par. I have 4 S026s over a 225. I have repaired all but 1 and am waiting for my order to come in to fix that one.
My test are usually very consistent:
Alk 8 Salifert and Red Sea
Cal 450 Salifert and Red Sea
Nitrates .05 Salifert
Mag 1300 Salifert
Phos .03 -.05 Hanna Ultra low

I'd boost the salinityy to 35 ppt (sg = 1.0265), boost potassium to 400 ppm, and feed more, maybe with some amino acids. Since nitrate is quite low, corals may need more nitrogen.

 

[LostInTheDark]

I do use a calibrated(with 35 fluid) Refractometer. Is it possible to be off by enough to make a difference. What ppt do you calculate it to be?

 

[LostInTheDark]

This is the one I use

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I do use a calibrated(with 35 fluid) Refractometer. Is it possible to be off by enough to make a difference. What ppt do you calculate it to be?

I didn't run a calculation, but except for calcium, all of the major ions are lower than 35 ppt equivalent. So the refractometer reads what on that water?

 

[LostInTheDark]

35

 

[LostInTheDark]

I do about 10% water changes once a month and only dose all and calcium. The Seachem calcium claims to have mag and strontium included.

 

[jason2459]

Your salinity calculated out by the triton results with a couple assumptions on alkalinity, temp, and Fluorine comes to a very low 32.40ppt or a density of around 1.023. Even if the assumptions are off a bit that would not impact having low salinity. If anything I would guess your alkalinity in the lower ranges which would drop the salinity slightly. Even if it was high say at 13dkh that would only raise the salinity to ~32.44ppt.

I'd say it's a combination of light changes and low salinity. Get the lights stabilized and corals acclimated to the higher par as you get that fixed and slowly raise your salinity.

I'd get a second solution of 35ppt Standard and test against that. I have the DD H2Ocean refractometer and remember it was slightly darker then the veegee making it slightly harder to read. Also was not a full scale but that's only going to impact if you tried to do hypo salinity. So make sure you have very good lighting and ideally Sun light.

Here's my veegee/vitalsine under daylight LED and is brighter in person and closer up to the eye making it easier to read then what my camera phone captured.

 

[LostInTheDark]

I double checked the calibrations, by using solution and RO/DI, and it looks good. Tank comes in at 34 with a temp of 78. I'll bring a sample with me to the LFS to triple check. Thanks

 

[jason2459]

I double checked the calibrations, by using solution and RO/DI, and it looks good. Tank comes in at 34 with a temp of 78. I'll bring a sample with me to the LFS to triple check. Thanks

I would look into getting an accurate scale and making your own standard solution. I would not trust the DD to calibrate to 0. It is supposed to be a seawater refractometer but the lack of a full scale to me makes me doubt it's ability to properly calibrate to 0. Otherwise it's a good refractometer minus any individual defects.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-12/rhf/

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

FWIW, the DD H2Ocean refractometer should (if perfect) show the same result when calibrated in RO/DI or 35 ppt. So if those show the same calibration, it is likely OK, and perhaps the salinity was just lower for some reason when you took the Triton sample.

 

[LostInTheDark]

I probably have about 225 gallons of water with an ATO so its pretty stable. I calibrate every time I use it with solution. I only check the tank when doing a water change just as a precaution. Today I did float the solution in the tank and let the refractometer come to ambient temperature. The tank came in a hair under 34. I'll bring it up to 35 over the next day or two. That doesn't seem like enough to cause the issues I'm seeing. Hopefully the new diodes for the light will be here today and I can get the lighting stabilized.