Tunze osmolator 3 failed

[Miguel.PT]

Miguel, 3155 was made for 22 years. I was running US distribution when it came out, it had just as many problems the first year or two. We don't hide our dirty laundry, the 3155 is technologically an antique and in later years the quality suffered as a result. The old pump was never great, we bought the pump from a manufacturer who made them to retrofit old cars with windshield washers, you will generally find the pump is the achilles heal of almost every ATO and we set out to change that by designing a pump we make in house for the 3154. The sensor used a bipin infrared LED, this was a common LED 20 years ago, it was on just about every remote control. Today, one company still makes them, that is a bad place to be, if the quality is bad, you have no alternative. 3154 uses a modern surface mount LED and the pump we make ourselves. I think you would regret the 3155. The 3154 addressed the two biggest failures of 3155, the pump and water damage and it modernized it to be a more compact product with less wires.

Thank you for clarifying. I will use a Tmc V Titan 850 on the opposite side of the sump. Will the elbow joint on it interfere with the tunze V3 sensors with the light shield on?

 

[rvitko Verified Sponsor]

The problem for UV is not the light it can be two problems, the ballast can make an interference and the light itself creates an ionization in the water, basically an electric field but not one that shocks you, more like a static electricity, both can interfere with the Osmolators. This can be solved by a ground probe for the ionization and by keeping the wiring and ballast and unit a minimum distance apart. In most cases we find the ground probe solves the interference problem.

 

[JTP424]

The problem for UV is not the light it can be two problems, the ballast can make an interference and the light itself creates an ionization in the water, basically an electric field but not one that shocks you, more like a static electricity, both can interfere with the Osmolators. This can be solved by a ground probe for the ionization and by keeping the wiring and ballast and unit a minimum distance apart. In most cases we find the ground probe solves the interference problem.

This is good knowledge!

 

[Miguel.PT]

The problem for UV is not the light it can be two problems, the ballast can make an interference and the light itself creates an ionization in the water, basically an electric field but not one that shocks you, more like a static electricity, both can interfere with the Osmolators. This can be solved by a ground probe for the ionization and by keeping the wiring and ballast and unit a minimum distance apart. In most cases we find the ground probe solves the interference problem.

Amazing. Thanks for sharing. Sounds a good safety to have the titanium rod.

 

[jabeuy]

Mine failed off, not on if that helps anyone.
I got a replacement part under warranty thanks for the help @rvitko
I have a spare 3155 I could have used but the pump is loud while the new version is near silent

 

[whalewhalewhale]

Same thing happened to me.

I switched to an avast pressure switch and a BRS doser pump. Running 5 years strong.

 

[305]

Same thing happened to me.

I switched to an avast pressure switch and a BRS doser pump. Running 5 years strong.

Show me how it’s done!

 

[whalewhalewhale]

Show me how it’s done!

Looks like they’ve made a new version of what I have with 2 sensors. They’re kind of notorious for being out of stock all the time so you’ll have to email them to get on the waitlist.

https://www.avastmarine.com/products/the-parrot-ato-system?srsltid=AfmBOoqUpu4lvJB_zepvNj_5dYGFiVZjfTwXJjI0vsNjWJDo3k3bfHz0

Then for the pump, it’s literally just this:

BRS 2 Part Doser - 1.1 mL per minute

Why does BRS recommend this? The BRS 1.1 mL dosing pump is a very cost-effective yet long lasting stand-alone dosing pump perfect for trace elements and 2 part. By hooking the pump up to a simple timer or aquarium controller they can be one of the most inexpensive ways to get into an automated...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

How it works is there’s an air pressure tube connected to an outlet switch. When the water level goes down, it creates suction/negative pressure within the pressure tube, which switches the outlet on. The BRS pump gets power and begins slowly pumping water into your tank. Once the water level rises back up, the pressure in the tube goes back to normal and the switch turns off. Very analog with no electronics in the water. If anything, the pump is more likely to die on your first, and it is super replaceable with any other pump on the market.