Unsuccessful Fallow period

Lowell Lemon

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
3,979
Reaction score
16,872
Location
Washington State
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Ok so I’m giving this my best shot AGAIN. Objective? To get rid of marine ich once and for all. I let my 250 gallon (fish/invert only) tank run for well over 78 days fallow while Copper powering at 2.0(Hanna) all fish for over 30 days in separate qt tanks. After I added qt’d fish back in things were great for two months. For the first time in 5 years I only did water changes and fed the fish without worrying about anything else, it was fan-freaking-tastic. Then Bam ich was back in my tank after a stressful jagged w/c. I can’t do what I did before and chance doing this massive amount of work for nothing only to see ich return. My plan is already in action and here it is.
*Empty tank of sand rocks and water
*Run tap water for a few days then drain
*Resurface acrylic
*Let everything dry including sump, overflow, and all live rock
*Throw sand away and buy new dry sand
*Seed the tank with gallons of bacteria and let run until cycled
*Then add the fish back in the tank after 30 days of copper power
*Add inverts after 78 days in separate qt tank which has dead sand and rocks minus seeded sponge filter that was in the display.

I know this is pretty aggressive/unorthodox but I dont know what else to do to ensure ichs death. I have TONS of live rock and sand and believe that has a lot to do with ichs survival after all I did. Trying to “start over” here and refuse to do the traditional 78 day fallow and potentially get the same result. Your thoughts/concerns would be greatly appreciated my reef2reef family.
It might be worth your time to get a second opinion via a microscope and a DVM with aquaculture experience. I had similar problem years a ago in 1500 gallon display. It was Tricodina a protozoa that lives on the fish and eats dead skin cells on the fish. It is a symbiotic relationship until water quality changes....such as a difficult water change or rise in water temperature. Then the protozoa becomes pathogenic and the population starts to explode as it starts to perforate the cell walls. White spots, rapid breathing, subdural hemmoraging, loss of buoyancy control, finally internal organs shut down and the fish dies. Then the protozoa goes into the water column looking for a new meal.

In my case we hooked up a chiller and U.V. to the systems and problems solved. The protozoa did not respond to traditional medication but once the environmental problems were taken care of we no longer had a problem. Dr. at Washington State University helped diagnose and provide direction for solutions.

Cost me thousands of dollars to overcome and correct but money well spent for the customer in the long haul. There are many on this site that think going fallow is the only protocol but your own experience and several others on this site have proven that this attempt at prophylaxis often does not work. Nuking the tank and killing the biodiversity is problematic as it is impossible to treat for any possible pathogen and not harm the fishes natural immune system. Fish in nature (one cubic milliliter sample) are exposed to 10 million viruses, one million bacteria, and about 1000 small protozoas, and algae. (Source Microbial research www.coastalwiki.org) It makes more sense to control factors you can not see by limiting explosions of opportunistic protozoa populations through environmental control in large fish populations. This is nature does every day without drugs. Better to understand nature than to fight it in our Glass or Acrylic mini oceans.
 
Last edited:

Tamberav

7500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
9,551
Reaction score
14,635
Location
Wauwatosa, WI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Many thanks. Sounds like lifting the rocks up and blowing under them is prudent. Will definitely do that, and be OCD with respect to supplies... if I go the ich eradication route.

Relatively dismayed that 2 months of QT for fish, and at least 30 days of QT with coral frags, was not enough to prevent the parasite from getting in. I'm thinking 99% of systems out there have ich.

Maybe I should just QT my tangs (only fish showing ich) and sell them... arg :p

Did you treat all the fish to prevent ich? It can hide pretty much.. indefinitely I feel like no some fish. They will never show spots.
 

Ross Petersen

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
May 25, 2019
Messages
543
Reaction score
311
Location
Vancouver BC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Did you treat all the fish to prevent ich? It can hide pretty much.. indefinitely I feel like no some fish. They will never show spots.
I was so OCD that I dipped all fish in 150 ppm hydrogen peroxide before and after QT. Quarantine consisted of 4 weeks of copper power at 2.0 - 2.5 ppm, with API GC doses in there as well. Many fish were exposed to a day of chloroquine phosphate separately as well.

The ich invariably came in on a frag 30+ days after sitting in a coral QT tank. All frag plugs were removed before going into QT, and all corals dipped repeatedly (not that dipping does anything to ich eggs).
 

Looking for the spotlight: Do your fish notice the lighting in your reef tank?

  • My fish seem to regularly respond to the lighting in my reef tank.

    Votes: 108 75.0%
  • My fish seem to occasionally respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 15 10.4%
  • My fish seem to rarely respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 9 6.3%
  • My fish seem to never respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 3 2.1%
  • I don’t pay enough attention to my fish to notice if they respond to the lighting.

    Votes: 4 2.8%
  • I don’t have any fish in my tank.

    Votes: 3 2.1%
  • Other.

    Votes: 2 1.4%
Back
Top