UPS/ Battery backup - what do you use and recommend for 300G system?

what UPS or Battery backup do you use?

  • I do not have any power backup

    Votes: 9 24.3%
  • I have a power generator (automated or manual) but not battery backup

    Votes: 13 35.1%
  • I have a battery backup - a UPS True sine wave

    Votes: 7 18.9%
  • I have a battery backup - a UPS simulated sine wave

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I have a battery backup - other (please explain what other)

    Votes: 8 21.6%

  • Total voters
    37

BubblesandSqueak

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UPS for when you're not home, Generator for when you are home. Unless you go whole house back up. But those seem to be unreliable now too. a few neighbors have them and after a power "glitch", it tripped breakers and the "brief" interruption never had the whole house backup switch on. so a couple refrigerators remain off until they noticed the tripped breakers. UPS with a low wattage return pump will run for a few hours if you get a 900W setup. They also have YouTube videos on how to DIY deep cycle marine battery hookups to ups. though you now have to have space for that.

Has anyone tried a EGO battery generator? or other big battery like that?
 

BubblesandSqueak

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I would(have already done..) use your current 1500va sine wave ups and add a bank or 2 of car batteries. For as much runtime as you want. 1500va has the capacity to run the tank entire without lights. Just open the unit as if to change the batteries and connect car batteries. My apc 1500va sine wave ups, on 4- 100ah agm batteries, wil run my 180g (w/ lights) for over 18 hours(775-900w), about double that without lights. The apc charges and maintains the 4 batteries no problem. This is tested and proven several times. These sized units aren't built like the cheap 200w units, they can handle what they're rated for. A generator after that is a must here in Florida
I wish someone would make a simple splitter harness for the APC stock batteries.
 

Reefering1

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I wish someone would make a simple splitter harness for the APC stock batteries.
Just cut the connector off the factory battery!! Then connect 2 or 0 guage wire (like for car stereo amplifier/equipment),my batteries could be 20 feet away. I bought my apc knowing it needed batteries for like 60 or 80$

20231230_081113.jpg 20231230_082001.jpg
 

The_Paradox

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A lot of server UPS run off standard car batteries, usually deep cycle AGMs. Personally I would not trust the inverter/fuse in a consumer UPS at the duty cycle it will see if your extending its run time by several magnitudes.
 

KenRexford

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Hydros Kraken for me. Allows marine batteries, multiple batteries if you want, at 100ah a pop. If 36v to run, a voltage converter is what I use, and it seems perfect.
 
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Just cut the connector off the factory battery!! Then connect 2 or 0 guage wire (like for car stereo amplifier/equipment),my batteries could be 20 feet away. I bought my apc knowing it needed batteries for like 60 or 80$

20231230_081113.jpg 20231230_082001.jpg
This approach seems very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

I will try the DIY approach you suggested.

What is the make/ model and specification of the car battery?

How long have you had this arrangement and how many times/ hours have this arrangement worked for you?
 

Reefering1

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This approach seems very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

I will try the DIY approach you suggested.

What is the make/ model and specification of the car battery?

How long have you had this arrangement and how many times/ hours have this arrangement worked for you?
Not picky on battery choices, but keep to same type(AGM, SLA). AGM is preferred, but it works fine on regular SLA batteries, bigger is better. If given free choice, I'd seek 49 or 94 series AGM ( 92/105Ah @ 20 hr rated). The APC smart ups 1500(va) runs on 24v so 2 batteries(wired in series) minimum, I run 4(2 batteries ran parallel, then both banks of 2 wired in series). I have 4 more batteries to add, for total of 8, once I clear a spot in cabinet in garage. I started this setup(and bought a generator) in the end of 2017, after hurricane IRMA caught me with my pants down (I wasn't ready). I test it regularly, every few months, for about 8-10 hours; until I get tired hearing it beeping. When showing my tank, I typically pull the plug to show it switch without a flicker from the lights. About 18 hours is the longest I've ran it(last year, hurricane Ian), that's the full tank with 3 hydra64, no halides during power failure mode. Even then batteries were still @ 12.1v, I believe it still had 5-6+ hours available. A couple times a strong thunderstorm has caused power failure of a couple hours, I don't hesitate to plug some lights and 70" tv in with the tank. This apc can connect to network issuing shut down commands and allows programming of outlet groups(can shut 1 outlet group down after say 2 hours(however long hou want) and only keep other outlet group on after that. I never got into all that but now that I'm typing it, sounds like a good idea to plug lights into one group and shut it down after 2/3 hours to extend critical equipment run time(plugged into outlet group 2). I never messed with the programming, just figured I'll add more batteries. As is, I have almost a day to drag the generator out. I don't worry about overworking the unit, load is normally within 70% of rated capacity. It weighs like 20-30 lbs, metal housing, transformer is the size of a square cantaloupe, has 4" PC fans keeping it cool. It just doesn't seem like I'm overworking it, not even close.
 

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Reefering1

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I use two Tesla power walls, but they're shared with the AC and other non reef equipment.
As much as I don't care for electric cars, i like the idea of fords new power mode. It allows you to use the trucks battery(plugged into its charging outlet) to act as a whole home power supply or fire up the engine to serve as a generator.. interesting. What does one of Tesla's power wall cost?
 
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Not picky on battery choices, but keep to same type(AGM, SLA). AGM is preferred, but it works fine on regular SLA batteries, bigger is better. If given free choice, I'd seek 49 or 94 series AGM ( 92/105Ah @ 20 hr rated). The APC smart ups 1500(va) runs on 24v so 2 batteries(wired in series) minimum, I run 4(2 batteries ran parallel, then both banks of 2 wired in series). I have 4 more batteries to add, for total of 8, once I clear a spot in cabinet in garage. I started this setup(and bought a generator) in the end of 2017, after hurricane IRMA caught me with my pants down (I wasn't ready). I test it regularly, every few months, for about 8-10 hours; until I get tired hearing it beeping. When showing my tank, I typically pull the plug to show it switch without a flicker from the lights. About 18 hours is the longest I've ran it(last year, hurricane Ian), that's the full tank with 3 hydra64, no halides during power failure mode. Even then batteries were still @ 12.1v, I believe it still had 5-6+ hours available. A couple times a strong thunderstorm has caused power failure of a couple hours, I don't hesitate to plug some lights and 70" tv in with the tank. This apc can connect to network issuing shut down commands and allows programming of outlet groups(can shut 1 outlet group down after say 2 hours(however long hou want) and only keep other outlet group on after that. I never got into all that but now that I'm typing it, sounds like a good idea to plug lights into one group and shut it down after 2/3 hours to extend critical equipment run time(plugged into outlet group 2). I never messed with the programming, just figured I'll add more batteries. As is, I have almost a day to drag the generator out. I don't worry about overworking the unit, load is normally within 70% of rated capacity. It weighs like 20-30 lbs, metal housing, transformer is the size of a square cantaloupe, has 4" PC fans keeping it cool. It just doesn't seem like I'm overworking it, not even close.
Thanks for taking time to share as much details.
 

areefer01

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I use two Tesla power walls, but they're shared with the AC and other non reef equipment.

Hobbies, right? If one is in a good solar production location, and has the money, then power walls are a huge win. However one has to have discipline and a bit of money to make it worth while. Professional installation is product plus labor (which isn't cheap). DIY route is more affordable but one needs the skill set and don't forget permits...

But to your point this is a great alternative and one that would work well for most home sized aquariums.
 

DrMMI

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I made a 100 amp hr battery back up for my jebao wave maker. That thing will go for days.

 

SteveMM62Reef

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For something that will run a long time and not be dependent on your present system. I recommend a Deep Cycle Battery. I drew up the design for a fellow hobbyist, unfortunately it is on my old Laptop and I can’t get in to hook up to WiFi. Here is the Parts list. Deep Cycle Battery and Battery Box from Walmart. Rest is from Amazon. Two or more Mountain Ark 12Vdc Pumps, tubing for Returns, from Sump, to Aquarium, over the top. 5.5 x 2.1 Cables and Splitters. RIBU1C Relay. FILSHU 5.5 x 2.1 Power Socket, Threaded for Panel Mount. PinFox Project Box, 6.2”x3.55”x2.3” Nylons Screws and Nut, for Mounting to Back outside of Battery box. Inline Fuse Holder and Fuse, 30 Amp. Maximum. About Eight Wire Nuts, I prefer the Crimp Style. Automatic Battery Maintainer/Charger. Cyber Power GC201 6” Extension Cord, “Piggyback Style. A Salvaged Cord with Plug. It can be with or without Ground. This Plugs into the Cyber Power Receptacle, at the Wall Receptacle. Battery Charger Plugs into the Cord. Salvaged Cord Wires to White with Black Trace and White with Yellow Trace at RIB. Battery Positive to Fuse then to RIB Yellow, Battery Negative to Power Socket, Internal Barrel Contact 5.5mm . RIB Blue to Power Socket, Internal Pin 2.1mm I ran mine on a test for Six Days, two Pumps, and didn’t drop below 12 Vdc. He is using Six of the Pumps on a 360 Gallon. I believe he used Two Batteries in Parallel.
 

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KC2020

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Tripp Lite makes a battery charger/inverter that functions like a UPS but with battery or batteries of your choice. I use deep discharge marine batteries and it's worked flawlessly here in Southern California where power is frequently interrupted.
 

Naekuh

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UPS are NOT designed to be run for hours on end.
The inverter on them was just not designed that way, or with that in mind.

Its designed to run long enough for you to shut down your PC and save whatever data you have in that short window, hence TOTALLY not recommend for fish tank backup, as you need something that was designed to run for hours on end.

Your better off getting a LiFePO4 generator, which can do charge / load simulaneously.
Also heaters are power hungry SOB's, if your in a location where you need that heater on emergency, then a larger LiFePO4 generator is probably your ideal choice.

But again Computer UPS should not be used in this hobby as you want something designed to run on hours on end, unless you want it for a quick rolling black out which does not last more then 30 min. Just see how much metal a real Inverter which is designed to run off a car for hours is compared to a all plastic UPS with a tiny 40mm fan to keep it cool. This is why I say they are NOT designed for long term usage unless your powering a 13W power head / Air Pump.

Also SLA batteries in UPS have like the worst maintance life.
Meaning expect to replace that SLA battery every 2-3 yrs, even under very little use, which is why i double down on a LiFePO4 generator.
 
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KC2020

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The EATON UPS I maintain in our server rack at work are designed to run for days on end. Though they're obviously not a consumer grade UPS.

I do have a couple of APC Smart UPS on just the circulation pumps of my reef tanks. They're older, much better built and pure sine wave output. I've relied on them for 8 hours a couple of times when I had to. And yes sealed lead acid batteries are not long lived but they are cheap and still readily available.

The Tripp Lite charger/inverter I was referring to is not your standard UPS. I said it could function as a UPS. It's designed for power tools, pumps, lights. You hardwire it with 10 gauge to the batteries.

A 2K Honda generator with a sine wave inverter kept my tanks alive during the Northridge earthquake in 1994.
 

BZOFIQ

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I wouldn't waste money on these battery backups made for computers and such. They are just not reliable enough and will eventually blow its capacitors and destroy the unit. If you have ecotech pumps just get the batter backup for those.


Haha not reliable? You're buying the wrong (cheap) stuff.

These things are designed to protect much more sensitive environments. Any APC pure-sine unit will last decades.

Are they a good match for an aquarium? - no, but not for the reason you've mentioned.
 

Naekuh

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Haha not reliable? You're buying the wrong (cheap) stuff.

These things are designed to protect much more sensitive environments. Any APC pure-sine unit will last decades.

Are they a good match for an aquarium? - no, but not for the reason you've mentioned.

yep, there is no pump more sensitive then a active PSU where .1v being fed improperly to the cpu can lead to it blue screening.

But again, most consumer grade PC UPS's were not designed for long active duty as they do not have the proper thermal management to be run longer then 15 min at 50% load.

This is why those DIY projects where you see people connecting large deep cycle batteries to tiny UPS's are all failed DIY projects.

The inverters are just not designed for that type of tasks, which is also why inverters that are designed for those, are typically wrapped around alu heatsinks, or have very large heat sinks attached paired with big loud fans.

The EATON UPS I maintain in our server rack at work are designed to run for days on end. Though they're obviously not a consumer grade UPS.

I do have a couple of APC Smart UPS on just the circulation pumps of my reef tanks. They're older, much better built and pure sine wave output. I've relied on them for 8 hours a couple of times when I had to. And yes sealed lead acid batteries are not long lived but they are cheap and still readily available.

The Tripp Lite charger/inverter I was referring to is not your standard UPS. I said it could function as a UPS. It's designed for power tools, pumps, lights. You hardwire it with 10 gauge to the batteries.

A 2K Honda generator with a sine wave inverter kept my tanks alive during the Northridge earthquake in 1994.

Well, if your gonna spend 10k+ for a UPS on enterprise grade, then yeah.. lol... there are also better solutions like taking your entire fish tank off grid, and using tesla power walls. Im pretty sure that would probably cost as much as some of those enterprise class UPS.

Also that APS750 is exactly what i was reffering to, as being acceptable, because it does have an inverter design which was meant to run for hours and hours.
Just looking at that vs a typical consumer UPS like one from cyberpower, or APC, should be enough to explain what i mean about consumer UPS's not being designed for what reefers need it for.
 
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Reefering1

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yep, there is no pump more sensitive then a active PSU where .1v being fed improperly to the cpu can lead to it blue screening.

But again, most consumer grade PC UPS's were not designed for long active duty as they do not have the proper thermal management to be run longer then 15 min at 50% load.

This is why those DIY projects where you see people connecting large deep cycle batteries to tiny UPS's are all failed DIY projects.

The inverters are just not designed for that type of tasks, which is also why inverters that are designed for those, are typically wrapped around alu heatsinks, or have very large heat sinks attached paired with big loud fans.



Well, if your gonna spend 10k+ for a UPS on enterprise grade, then yeah.. lol... there are also better solutions like taking your entire fish tank off grid, and using tesla power walls. Im pretty sure that would probably cost as much as some of those enterprise class UPS.

Also that APS750 is exactly what i was reffering to, as being acceptable, because it does have an inverter design which was meant to run for hours and hours.
Just looking at that vs a typical consumer UPS like one from cyberpower, or APC, should be enough to explain what i mean about consumer UPS's not being designed for what reefers need it for.
I think the point @BZOFIQ was making is that what you are saying applies to cheap/low end models. The big boys(good ones) are not cheap, small or lightweight. They cost 5-700 and up. I suggest buying one with bad batteries for next to nothing. Mine weights over 20lbs. It has been set up for almost 6 years with same batteries, tested often and hasn't failed once- doesn't sound like failure to me...
 

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