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Yep. Most tanks are going to have ich, just like most humans have e.coli and MRSA on/in our bodies, but only those susceptible due to illness/injury/ weakened immunity will become infected.I live with ich and live with ich management which is just running UV sterilizer. All my fish never have ich showing now but if the fish aren’t happy they can get it again but that is any fish even after quarantine can get sick.
The cysts canIf there's no livestock, just drain and dry everything thoroughly, then refill. Ich can't survive that.
Also Sean before you put copper or meds in your tank don’t do it also don’t add bleach if you want to have inverts like shrimp or crabs. They can’t survive with that stuff in the water or in the rock and they stay on the rock all day.Hey guys,
Long story short, I did not QT my fish properly and after what I thought was a successful QT regime, 2 weeks after putting my first pair of clowns into my newly setup tank, there was an ich outbreak...
It killed one of my clowns but the other one made it and is back in QT for a proper QT copper power treatment.
Since the tank was brand new and these were the first two fish in the tank, the tank is completely empty of any living things (aside from the bacteria).
But the tank has the ich parasite in it now...
The tank only has my scape and sand in it now. Can I use bleach in the QT tank to absolutely kill any possible remnants of the parasite in any of its forms?
I've read the best way is to let the tank run for 75 days and in that time the parasite will die as it cannot find a host... Probably/maybe/most likely... possibly.
I'm looking for a way to be like yeah... any living thing in that tank is dead... 100% and for it not to take 75 days...
Thanks!
That’s why I believe in the philosophy of keeping the fish in the DT instead of a hospital tank where they could end up stressed. They are in their natural environment.Yep. Most tanks are going to have ich, just like most humans have e.coli and MRSA on/in our bodies, but only those susceptible due to illness/injury/ weakened immunity will become infected.
To be fair, he said one fish already died, and he's doing his best to save the other.That’s why I believe in the philosophy of keeping the fish in the DT instead of a hospital tank where they could end up stressed. They are in their natural environment.
If he doesn’t get the UV up velvet could kill his second fish. I have every disease in my tank, where I bought my fish put all their fish in the same dam tank. That tank also has coral so they don’t use meds. It’s literally a disease fest haha and my fish are fine.To be fair, he said one fish already died, and he's doing his best to save the other.
I understand completely and don't disagree with your methods (I believe PaulB also manages his systems this way). But it's more difficult for someone new to the hobby to successfully achieve this... especially those who try to cut cornersIf he doesn’t get the UV up velvet could kill his second fish. I have every disease in my tank, where I bought my fish put all their fish in the same dam tank. That tank also has coral so they don’t use meds. It’s literally a disease fest haha and my fish are fine.
Yep. Most tanks are going to have ich, just like most humans have e.coli and MRSA on/in our bodies, but only those susceptible due to illness/injury/ weakened immunity will become infected.
Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank.I guess the question can be boiled down to:
What is the best way to quickly make absolute certain that all the Ich has been killed in a display tank with no fish in it? (without replacing all the rock and sand).
Running the tank at 86F for 2 weeks should also starve out ich.
Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames
I think the overall issue here is that there are no known dips that can kill the trophonts which can attach themselves to stonies. I’m regurgitating what I’ve learned reading this site, but I believe that’s the main issue. On that note, I’ve got some SPS frags in QT, didn’t like idea of 80.6+...humble.fish
This should have a relatively minimal impact on your beneficial bacteria. Seems like an ideal solution for your situation. I WOULD ride it out for 30 days, you know, in case.This looks to be the ticket... I don't have to waste any salt water and I can crank the tank to 86F no problem, and I can even hold it there for 30 days as that how long it's going to take me to treat the clownfish with copper anyway...
Crank the tank to 86F leave it there for 30 days with no fish in it. In the meantime I'm QTing the clowns. After 30 days of fallow+86F, do a big water change, and put the clowns in...
Fast and seems guaranteed, and wastes little water... I'm in SoCal and they are getting very strict with water usage.
Love the scape crank heat and go from thereI guess the question can be boiled down to:
What is the best way to quickly make absolute certain that all the Ich has been killed in a display tank with no fish in it? (without replacing all the rock and sand).
76 days with no fishI guess the question can be boiled down to:
What is the best way to quickly make absolute certain that all the Ich has been killed in a display tank with no fish in it? (without replacing all the rock and sand).
Humblefish says 2 weeks with no fish and 86F76 days with no fish
OkHumblefish says 2 weeks with no fish and 86F