Uv and ostreopsis

[jdpeters]

I have a 9~ month old system that I let get totally nuked by opstreopsis that I’m slowly regaining control of. My nutrients dropped and then I did one too many water changes that it really appreciated. I’m manually blasting rocks twice daily, scrubbing, cleaning socks, trying to raise nutrients and stopped water changes. I don’t understand the mechanism but something in the WC really ignites it.

My question is about my UV. I’m running a 15w on a 40b. It’s plumbed off a manifold in sump and I put the outlet in the return chamber. Is this the least effective way to use UV for Ostreopsis? It would be a major pain to rip it out and have a pump directly in display, I’d nearly rather buy a whole other unit separately

 

[Quietman]

It's much better than nothing but no it's not optimal. For optimal UV effectiveness it should either be on it's own display loop or in the return line. Otherwise you're just getting a fraction of the flow through it.

Also, for my ostreopsis breakout (which was finally controlled by UV - in build thread) it took high flow for a few months before I could dial it back to normal flow. So if you have it under control the configuration you have may work. If it is still not under control, I'd go ahead and bite the bullet to put a pump in my display for a few months. Then you likely can move it back to portion of flow in sump.

 

[jdpeters]

It's much better than nothing but no it's not optimal. For optimal UV effectiveness it should either be on it's own display loop or in the return line. Otherwise you're just getting a fraction of the flow through it.

Also, for my ostreopsis breakout (which was finally controlled by UV - in build thread) it took high flow for a few months before I could dial it back to normal flow. So if you have it under control the configuration you have may work. If it is still not under control, I'd go ahead and bite the bullet to put a pump in my display for a few months. Then you likely can move it back to portion of flow in sump.

When you say high flow you mean the rate in which it’s going through your UV?

I let the tank go fallow and get really nasty for 3~ months before I started to get livestock back into the tank. Initially I didn’t know what it was and it nuked everything. The whole tank was a bubbly snotty mess and snails, corals and fish got wiped out. My phosphate was .03 and nitrates 25~ ppm when I started to manually cleaned the tank and it looked largely eradicated. I did multiple water changes and added 20 pounds of TBS sand nearly 3 weeks ago and then poof it was visibly back. I thought adding the sand would be a immediate magic bullet but now that’s obviously not true. Nothing good happens fast.

Something is absolutely eating up my phosphate right now, I can’t get a measurable amount. (Testing with Hanna checker).


You have any thoughts on microbacter 7? I’ve been taking it easy on it, I suspect it’s what is driving my nutrients too low but hard to prove. I’m managing alk with AFR and avoiding water changes

 

[jonelder68]

I had little effectiveness with a small uv plumbed in sump. Bought a huge 40w aqua ultraviolet and plumbed directly into DT. I have Prorocentrum Dino’s which don’t release into water column at night. So required a 3 day blackout and constant stirring and Turkey basting the tank to get them into the water column. Lights are back on but still running UV in DT for time being.

My small sicce plumbed into sump. No improvements this way. It’s also very small for my set up.

 

[Reefer1978]

What's fueling opstreopsis with WC is the iron you are re-introducing. With the manifold, some of your water is going through the UV but not all. it will work but slowly. If you get a bigger unit, just re-plumb so your entire return flow goes through an appropriately sized UV. 25W should do it.

 

[billyocean]

Put a piece of filter floss in display on a nori clip or whatever...in high flow area. Rinse out before lights out and put back in...baste all surfaces to get the ostreopsis waterborne. Rinse and repeat in the morning.

So..clean floss in the morning....and before lights out. Floss will last a couple days. The ostreopsis is like a moth to a flame with the floss and will help put a dent in the population much quicker.

 

[Quietman]

I tried it all...got very desperate and almost quit the hobby the entirely. Not a big fan of bio additives. Never really noticed much improvement long term. Agree with above stop big water changes. I didn't make any headway on just cleaning the dino either though. When I hooked up my UV in my return line it changed everything almost overnight.

Unfortunately my tank was so out of balance that after losing corals, fish and my sanity I had a nasty GHA outbreak. So be prepared for other things to take advantage of the loss of long term dinos.

 

[jdpeters]

I had little effectiveness with a small uv plumbed in sump. Bought a huge 40w aqua ultraviolet and plumbed directly into DT. I have Prorocentrum Dino’s which don’t release into water column at night. So required a 3 day blackout and constant stirring and Turkey basting the tank to get them into the water column. Lights are back on but still running UV in DT for time being.

My small sicce plumbed into sump. No improvements this way. It’s also very small for my set up.

Bahhh. I have the 15w 2000+ barbed version. It would be a such a pain to pull it out. I don’t think I have all the pieces currently but it might be a worthwhile investment to piece it together

 

[Reefer1978]

Bahhh. I have the 15w 2000+ barbed version. It would be a such a pain to pull it out. I don’t think I have all the pieces currently but it might be a worthwhile investment to piece it together

It can work then as the main return, if you slow down the water flow to an appropriate level.

 

[billyocean]

Even one of those green killing machines uv from petco will work on thr tank. As stated...in display close loop uv works best. Ive used the GKM in a 125 i had and it was enough. Should be fine in the 40b. Petco has 20% off now and just use it for a bit and take it out when youre good...save for later in case you need it.

 

[Quietman]

I run a 15w on my RSR 170 (34 gallons). Think it's be fine assuming you correct flow (at least temporarily).

Also, I think the reason that cleaning really doesn't work is that Ostreopsis reproduces like crazy and just a few hours can erase gains from a cleaning session. I think it can double in 20 min which is 8x per hour (also why you need high flow - 6-8x tank vol/hr did it for me).

Just for interest...had a few of them on my microscope slide (maybe 5-6)...forgot and left the little light on and walked away for 30 min. Came back and slide was full of the darn things. Impressive and a bit scary.

 

[jonelder68]

Even one of those green killing machines uv from petco will work on thr tank. As stated...in display close loop uv works best. Ive used the GKM in a 125 i had and it was enough. Should be fine in the 40b. Petco has 20% off now and just use it for a bit and take it out when youre good...save for later in case you need it.

Was just going to post a petco link to it as Billy has mentioned people have reported good luck with these cheaper UV’s. I’d install it right in DT until issue is gone.

 

[jdpeters]

Even one of those green killing machines uv from petco will work on thr tank. As stated...in display close loop uv works best. Ive used the GKM in a 125 i had and it was enough. Should be fine in the 40b. Petco has 20% off now and just use it for a bit and take it out when youre good...save for later in case you need it.

I just tossed an old one from my freshwater fish room thinking I’d never use it again, maybe that was a mistake? lol

 

[billyocean]

I just tossed an old one from my freshwater fish room thinking I’d never use it again, maybe that was a mistake? lol

I wouldnt trust one long term in SW. But for a couple weeks at a time they are fine from my experience.

 

[jonelder68]

I just tossed an old one from my freshwater fish room thinking I’d never use it again, maybe that was a mistake? lol

They melt down over time from reports. The housing isn’t truely uv rated from what I’ve seen. So there best just used temporary and then removed to avoid leaching melted plastics into system.

I’d install one of them or if you’ve got the budget buy a true quality aqua ultraviolet etc. I tried everything before spending on a nice uv. Was never a fan of them but after this I’m plumbing mine into return to run constant or when needed. The water is so clear it’s invisible.

 

[jonelder68]

There’s several ways to treat Dino’s especially your variety. Just depends on how fast you want it dealt with. Fast = UV in DT, slower = mechanical filtration/manual removal and silicate dosing. Dino’s has become such an issue lately I’d suggest every new tank start up install a good quality uv in closed loop/through return line from start up.

 

[billyocean]

There’s several ways to treat Dino’s especially your variety. Just depends on how fast you want it dealt with. Fast = UV in DT, slower = mechanical filtration/manual removal and silicate dosing. Dino’s has become such an issue lately I’d suggest every new tank start up install a good quality uv in closed loop/through return line from start up.

Yeah...forgot about dosing some silicate. Good call.
Method:
Uv from and into display

Dose silicates (I use loudwolf waterglass)

Floss in display on clip in high flow area

Baste at least twice a day and definitely before lights out.


This Method has rid of ostreopsis for me within a week..2 weeks tops..never have done a blackout and mb7 made no difference for me when I tried it. Obviously make sure nutrients arent bottomed out.

 

[jonelder68]

If you haven’t read yet. Yes that’s my tank in the article. This was third round of Dino’s for me I’m a dinos pro by now

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/beating-dinoflagellates-a-complete-guide.1137/

 

[jdpeters]

Bahhh. I have the 15w 2000+ barbed version. It would be a such a pain to pull it out. I don’t think I have all the pieces currently but it might be a worthwhile investment to piece it together

It can work then as the main return, if you slow down the water flow to an appropriate level.

I have it on a manifold but I’m considering trying to figure out the best way to plumb the return to go 100% through it instead of just recirculating in my sump pump

 

[jdpeters]

I just tossed an old one from my freshwater fish room thinking I’d never use it again, maybe that was a mistake? lol

They melt down over time from reports. The housing isn’t truely uv rated from what I’ve seen. So there best just used temporary and then removed to avoid leaching melted plastics into system.

I’d install one of them or if you’ve got the budget buy a true quality aqua ultraviolet etc. I tried everything before spending on a nice uv. Was never a fan of them but after this I’m plumbing mine into return to run constant or when needed. The water is so clear it’s invisible.

I’m thinking that maybe taking it off the manifold and having 100% of my return water run through it is a good option