Uv and ostreopsis

[jonelder68]

I’m thinking that maybe taking it off the manifold and having 100% of my return water run through it is a good option

That would help a lot as long as flow rates correct. That’s what’s hard with a small uv is the flow rate is so little. I’d try that but still think you’ll need a bigger/nicer uv to be effective. Best bet/cheapest would be add a green machine uv straight into DT.

 

[jdpeters]

I just tossed an old one from my freshwater fish room thinking I’d never use it again, maybe that was a mistake? lol

They melt down over time from reports. The housing isn’t truely uv rated from what I’ve seen. So there best just used temporary and then removed to avoid leaching melted plastics into system.

I’d install one of them or if you’ve got the budget buy a true quality aqua ultraviolet etc. I tried everything before spending on a nice uv. Was never a fan of them but after this I’m plumbing mine into return to run constant or when needed. The water is so clear it’s invisible.

I’m thinking that maybe taking it off the manifold and having 100% of my return water run through it is a good option

Currently it’s on a manifold and being recirculated in the return chamber. Would i increase the effectiveness if I had it go through the manifold back directly to the display as to not keep filtering much of the same water. My sdc6 is only at 30 percent currently.

Secondly, I’m not sure the micron but I very fine mesh filter sock. Does a percentage of the Dino’s make it through it in the first place?

 

[jonelder68]

Currently it’s on a manifold and being recirculated in the return chamber. Would i increase the effectiveness if I had it go through the manifold back directly to the display as to not keep filtering much of the same water. My sdc6 is only at 30 percent currently.

Secondly, I’m not sure the micron but I very fine mesh filter sock. Does a percentage of the Dino’s make it through it in the first place?

Yes that’s would help out some.

If fine micron you will catch some Dino’s yes. You should be replacing and cleaning them daily. My first two rounds of Dino’s I eliminated through manual removal and mechanical filtration. I used a marineland magnum canister filter to catch Dino’s while blowing them loose. Daily replacing the cartridge/filter.

 

[jdpeters]

Currently it’s on a manifold and being recirculated in the return chamber. Would i increase the effectiveness if I had it go through the manifold back directly to the display as to not keep filtering much of the same water. My sdc6 is only at 30 percent currently.

Secondly, I’m not sure the micron but I very fine mesh filter sock. Does a percentage of the Dino’s make it through it in the first place?

Yes that’s would help out some.

If fine micron you will catch some Dino’s yes. You should be replacing and cleaning them daily. My first two rounds of Dino’s I eliminated through manual removal and mechanical filtration. I used a marineland magnum canister filter to catch Dino’s while blowing them loose. Daily replacing the cartridge/filter.

Do you happen to have any photos by chance of it in your aquarium? Also to clarify, kicking up the turnover through the UV is advised? I know this topic has been talked to death but man is it frustrating. I’m hoping I can tip the scale soon and thankfully I think my system is finally getting its stride. My corals look happy and showing signs of growth

 

[Reefer1978]

Also to clarify, kicking up the turnover through the UV is advised?

No, you want to run a very specific amount of flow through it.

 

[jonelder68]

Do you happen to have any photos by chance of it in your aquarium? Also to clarify, kicking up the turnover through the UV is advised? I know this topic has been talked to death but man is it frustrating. I’m hoping I can tip the scale soon and thankfully I think my system is finally getting its stride. My corals look happy and showing signs of growth

Photos of the marineland magnum internal canister filter? Just stuck it on wherever it fit. Remove to swap filters every morning.

You want as much turnover through the Uv but within the manufacturers specifications for what your targeting to eliminate. What Uv are you using?

 

[jdpeters]

Do you happen to have any photos by chance of it in your aquarium? Also to clarify, kicking up the turnover through the UV is advised? I know this topic has been talked to death but man is it frustrating. I’m hoping I can tip the scale soon and thankfully I think my system is finally getting its stride. My corals look happy and showing signs of growth

Photos of the marineland magnum internal canister filter? Just stuck it on wherever it fit. Remove to swap filters every morning.

You want as much turnover through the Uv but within the manufacturers specifications for what your targeting to eliminate. What Uv are you using?

A 15w aqua ultraviolet Barb x Barb

 

[jdpeters]

Put a piece of filter floss in display on a nori clip or whatever...in high flow area. Rinse out before lights out and put back in...baste all surfaces to get the ostreopsis waterborne. Rinse and repeat in the morning.

So..clean floss in the morning....and before lights out. Floss will last a couple days. The ostreopsis is like a moth to a flame with the floss and will help put a dent in the population much quicker.

I haven’t implemented floss in the display til now, I have it hanging. The idea is the ostreopsis will land in it correct?

 

[jonelder68]

I haven’t implemented floss in the display til now, I have it hanging. The idea is the ostreopsis will land in it correct?

Yes it free floats in the water column at night. So change every morning. UV is the treatment for ostreopsis variety. Most who plumb uv in DT see results super quick.

 

[jonelder68]

A 15w aqua ultraviolet Barb x Barb

That’s a good unit. Try plumbing into return if you want but direct in DT I’d bet you would eliminate them in a day or two.

 

[billyocean]

I haven’t implemented floss in the display til now, I have it hanging. The idea is the ostreopsis will land in it correct?

Yes. They love the floss for some reason. You'll see how much it catches by morning.

 

[jdpeters]

A 15w aqua ultraviolet Barb x Barb

That’s a good unit. Try plumbing into return if you want but direct in DT I’d bet you would eliminate them in a day or two.

My confusion is though the best way since it’s a double barb unit. If I cut it into my return using hoses the weight of my return line and manifolds is just hanging

 

[jonelder68]

My confusion is though the best way since it’s a double barb unit. If I cut it into my return using hoses the weight of my return line and manifolds is just hanging

Send pictures of your set up so I can help.

I have the 40w classic aqua unit so not sure the same sizes? But a 2” conduit clamp fits around the body nicely. I just made a temporary stand from scrap wood to mount next to DT. But maybe you can gain something from it? The UV comes with 3/4” barbed fittings but any 3/4” npt pvc fitting can fit into the aqua units.

 

[BryanM]

All I can add is my UV is plumbed through my return. I wanted to make sure all the water passed through it when I was dealing with dinos. I think this is a much better way than via manifold, and you just have to figure out how to get it solid and not hanging with a bunch of dead weight.

 

[jdpeters]

Put a piece of filter floss in display on a nori clip or whatever...in high flow area. Rinse out before lights out and put back in...baste all surfaces to get the ostreopsis waterborne. Rinse and repeat in the morning.

So..clean floss in the morning....and before lights out. Floss will last a couple days. The ostreopsis is like a moth to a flame with the floss and will help put a dent in the population much quicker.

I was surprised to see how brown my filter floss was this morning. There’s a substantial reduction in visible signs of them in my display today. Still present but significantly less bubbles. Also finally got a measured .01 phosphate, first reading in a week plus

 

[jdpeters]

All I can add is my UV is plumbed through my return. I wanted to make sure all the water passed through it when I was dealing with dinos. I think this is a much better way than via manifold, and you just have to figure out how to get it solid and not hanging with a bunch of dead weight.

I’m so mad at myself. With the uv temporarily plumbed directly to the display, after only 2 days nearly all the signs of ostreopsis are gone. I’ve been battling it for MONTHS. Jesus Christ.

I might keep it in for a few weeks. I’d like to get back to waterchanges but I will closely monitor it

 

[billyocean]

I’m so mad at myself. With the uv temporarily plumbed directly to the display, after only 2 days nearly all the signs of ostreopsis are gone. I’ve been battling it for MONTHS. Jesus Christ.

I might keep it in for a few weeks. I’d like to get back to waterchanges but I will closely monitor it

 

[jdpeters]

It's much better than nothing but no it's not optimal. For optimal UV effectiveness it should either be on it's own display loop or in the return line. Otherwise you're just getting a fraction of the flow through it.

Also, for my ostreopsis breakout (which was finally controlled by UV - in build thread) it took high flow for a few months before I could dial it back to normal flow. So if you have it under control the configuration you have may work. If it is still not under control, I'd go ahead and bite the bullet to put a pump in my display for a few months. Then you likely can move it back to portion of flow in sump.

I nearly had it beat but I think I’m having problems with lyngbya Cyanobacteria. I’m having a hard time keeping nutrients up and today I didn’t test but corals look ticked and ostreopsis is back off to the races.

I’m thinking a 3 day blackout is my first step but I’m afraid of losing all my live stock again. I nearly hate this system, I’ve never struggled like this. Never doing barebottom and dry dead rock again.

 

[Quietman]

I nearly had it beat but I think I’m having problems with lyngbya Cyanobacteria. I’m having a hard time keeping nutrients up and today I didn’t test but corals look ticked and ostreopsis is back off to the races.

I’m thinking a 3 day blackout is my first step but I’m afraid of losing all my live stock again. I nearly hate this system, I’ve never struggled like this. Never doing barebottom and dry dead rock again.

I've done blackouts for ostreopsis but not a big fan as they just come back and it stresses out the corals that are trying to survive. Just crank up the UV flow and eventually you'll win out. Might take a few months. I had mine beat for several weeks then dialed my flow down - big mistake. It was months before I touched flow again but never had dinos again.

Once I had my breakout under control I had cyano and then a massive GHA breakout. Dinos really mess with balance of your tank. Just keep at it. I never added nitrate/phosphates as it mine never bottomed out, but it's not a bad idea.

I had a 2" sand bed and still had all these issues so...who knows.

And yeah, I feed your pain. Closest I came to throwing in the towel was during this period.

 

[jonelder68]

Sometimes it can take awhile. I’ve had three rounds of Dino’s now. Nutrients didn’t drop on the last two rounds but they just came back. Eventually your tank will find its balance and a replacement to outcompete the Dino’s. Just keep up with the Uv and manual removal. If you want to speed it up do a blackout. Even a day will help. 3 days my tank was bare of all Dino’s and everything. But expect something to replace Dino’s! One round had cyano after and this last I now have GHA running ramped.