UV Experts Please!

nova918

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So i recently went trough a really bad parasite infection in my tank some told me it was ICH but i think it was marine velvet almost all my fish are dead … im sad over all this, but i wont give up on the hobby … will always quarantine from now on ..

So here is my question i have a 500 gallon Tank…
Running a UV a Lifeguard 3” high output amalgam Pro-MaxTM 55 watt to be exact …

This was install by a company that installed my fish tank … its installed right after my return pump and i have a feeling it was not configure properly or flow rate to fast so it never actually work on the ich or velvet that i had and just got out of control …. My return pump is a

Jump DC 10K Controllable Return Pump (2642 GPH)​


To be exact … running two of them in the tank one pumps the water trough my UV … so here is my question the pump was set to number 10… its starts at 1 being the slowest and 20 the fastest .. …. can anyone tell me if it was to fast so it had no affect on ich? Or is it even possible to get that pump as slow as the UV needs to actualy have affect on sterilization of the parasites?


Thanks again to all you guys are great!!!!!

See picture i attached i think i found more details of the diferent speeds of the pump..
So by the details i think my pump was shooting water trough the UV in level 10 which if those details are correct @ 1807GPH
trough the UV to fast correct … if i run it at Level 1 thats 1057GPH is it still to fast? To manage ICH ?

This is the link


F6B0F002-396D-4870-B623-8D94B6BD7298.jpeg
 
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Viking_Reefing

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The main problem that you have is that the unit itself is stupidly undersized to do anything agains protozoans for a tank that size. I haven’t done the calculations as I don’t remember the formula of the top of my head but I’d say you would probably need in excess of 350w for a tank that size to achieve decent turnover with the proper amount of uWs/cm2.
Unfortunately this is a common mistake with UVs and why they get a bad reputation.

Now if it was indeed velvet I’m not even sure a properly sized UV would be enough to manage it as it spreads and replicates like wildfire. It could definitely be done but the amounts of watts needed probably wouldn’t be practical in a home setting.
I have no personal experience with velvet and UV so I’ll let other comment on the validity of that.

Edit: your current installation should be enough to control certain algae and stuff like that.
 
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Lemons

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I cant recall off the top of my head for the uW/cm2 needed for protozoans, however what i do know is that it has to be a relativly high intensity and long dwell time aswell...

So if it was ME doing a 500gallon with main purpose of parasite control.

I would run 3-4 57w or 80w :) in series so that the outlet of one goes into the inlet of another.

So you'd get a heck of a lot longer exposure time ensuring maximum damage to that parasites dna
 

Viking_Reefing

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I cant recall off the top of my head for the uW/cm2 needed for protozoans, however what i do know is that it has to be a relativly high intensity and long dwell time aswell...

So if it was ME doing a 500gallon with main purpose of parasite control.

I would run 3-4 57w or 80w :) in series so that the outlet of one goes into the inlet of another.

So you'd get a heck of a lot longer exposure time ensuring maximum damage to that parasites dna
There’s some debate about that but speaking to several manufacturers and importers the general consensus seemed to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 180.000 uWs/cm2 with a tank turnover of about 2-3x per hour.
 

Lemons

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There’s some debate about that but speaking to several manufacturers and importers the general consensus seemed to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 180.000 uWs/cm2 with a tank turnover of about 2-3x per hour.

Haha yea just gotta cook the suckers right in there... to do it properly need a whole seperate breaker LOL
 
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nova918

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so im other words this UV does not work for my tank ? Only for algae
 

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