UV Sterilizers, which unit to choose and why?

Badilac

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With the recent buzz around UV Sterilizers thanks to a few videos from industry giants I have seen a lot more people talking about UV's. Naturally most people purchase what these industry leaders push / sell which is fine and dandy, but I suggest everyone do their own research.

When selecting the right UV you need to determine what it is that you are trying to control in your aquarium. Typically, most people select a UV to control either Algae (of various kinds) or parasites (of various kinds). Make sure you do not select a unit that is too undersized to do the job you are selecting the UV for. Also keep in mind selecting a very large unit could cause a lot of unwanted heat in your aquarium. UV's are essentially heaters that are on ALL the time unlike a normal heater that cycles on and off to regulate the temp. One other thing I see discussed from time to time is “part time usage” I have not personally done testing on only running a UV part time I.E. 12hrs on and 12hrs off, however Bulk Reef Supply makes suggestions that it is almost pointless and I tend to think the same.

One thing to keep in mind is the yearly maintenance cost for replacing O-rings, bulbs, seals, sleeves / liners (if replaceable). I also recommend checking around to make sure parts are readily available for the unit you are looking to purchase. What happens if the Quartz sleeve breaks? or the ballast goes out? can you buy those separately? What happens if you upgrade tanks and need to replumb it can you replace the end caps / fitting? No matter which unit you choose I highly recommend keeping up with the proper yearly maintenance to ensure your UV is always working optimally. Typically, after a year of use the bulbs output has been reduced by roughly 20-30% which is normally accounted for in the advertised rating of the unit but this is not always the case on cheaper units.

Of course keep in mind the overall size / dimensions of the unit. Will it fit where you need it to? Will you be able to remove it from your system semi-easily for its yearly maintenance? Does the unit come with mounting hardware or do you have to purchase that separately? Surprising most units do not come with a way to mount them. Do the fittings provide flexibility for different mounting options? What is the diameter of the housing? The larger the housing diameter the longer the contact time. The longer the contact time the better chances the UV will kill what you are trying to kill. Some companies use 2" housings some use 3"- 5" housing. Don’t get hung up on the input and output sizes as you can just reduce the fittings down to accommodate your current plumbing diameter. A 2” output can easily be reduced to 3/4'” pipe / hose (standard return sizing).

Keep in mind that the very components that the sterilizer is built out of (PVC) is also affected by the UV light. Most quality units are built out of UV resistant PVC, keyword is "resistant". Cheap units aren’t even built using UV resistant PVC. Some units have replaceable PVC liners protecting the actual housing. Some have lifetime warranties on the housings. Keep in mind most all warranties apply to the original owner with proof of purchase. Do you want to spend the extra time to replace liners yearly? or deal with possibly replacing the entire housing IF it should ever fail from UV exposer. I do suggest staying away from units not utilizing UV resistant PVC or units utilizing poor quality overseas PVC. As the UV exposure will quickly start breaking down the PVC and cause it to leech into your aquarium which can wreak havoc on your fish and corals.

Now, that is out of the way here is what "I" like and why "I" choose it. I choose the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX high output Amalgam 90watt unit for my 300+ gallon system. Cost was $396, it is a high-quality unit, all replacement parts are available, has replaceable PVC liners unlike most units on the market. The power supply has a countdown day meter (kind of like a reverse hour meter) that lets you know when it’s time to service the unit (no other unit has this feature). I also really like how the input and outputs can swivel which makes the mounting and plumbing options extremely flexible. I also like the low yearly maintenance cost, the fact it includes hardware to mount the unit, and it has an Amalgam bulb which maintains its light output better than standard bulbs.

Below are some price comparisons on actual UV sterilizers, yearly maintenance cost and spare parts. I obtained these prices from Marine Depot, Bulk Reef Supply, and Amazon. Pricing and availability may change and you may be able to find better pricing if shopping around at pond supply shops, online lighting shops or even purchasing your yearly supplies during Black Friday sales. Also keep in mind there are many other sizes, options and suppliers, these are just some of the more common units used on larger aquariums.


Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's pricing.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $274
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $396
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $643

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $399
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $739
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $779

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $436
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $476
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $756



Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's yearly maintenance cost.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $74 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $84 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $109 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $108 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $100 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $110 includes bulb and O-rings

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $95 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $73 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $190 includes 2 bulb and O-rings

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's cost to replace the ballast or the Quartz sleeve.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $35
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $38
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3"Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $43

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt Ballast $133, Quartz sleeve $46

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt Ballast $107-$154, Quartz sleeve $84
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $51
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt Ballast $161, Quartz sleeve $168


I also want to note you may want to look into if the UV's power supplies have any known issues running through GFCI power outlets. I have read a lot of complaints lately that the Pentair's power supplies continually trip GFCI outlets every few hours. I would also take a few bad reviews as a grain of salt as more people tend to leave reviews when things aren’t working right rather than when everything is perfect.

Below is an old picture of a 360 watt UV that I use to run many moons ago. You will notice how you can actually see the UV light through the tubes because they have gotten so thin over the years of UV exposer. You will also see how repairs had to be made because the tubes got paper thin and they started leaking. This is one of the reasons why I like the replaceable sleeves on the Lifegard Pro-Max units.

I hope you Guys and Gals fine this little write up helpful in making a choice on the right UV for your application.

59E496B1-9D8F-4DDA-8BA9-3F3495F99FF4.jpeg
 
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AZMSGT

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It's nice you took the time to write all this but I would like to mention that this is NOT a recent debate. UV and what it does and doesn't do has been talked about for over 30+ years that I've been in and out of the hobby. I would speculate that since companies like BRS and Marine Depot created updated videos on the subject you could say "recent buzz". But if you search UV on this board you would find so much debate and info it would water your eyes.

Back in 1989 I had a 25W UV light on a 75G tank. I was using it for the same reasons I use UV today, to treat algae issues. I was by no means a trend setter either. I was just a person that was recommended a piece of equipment by my local fish shop to help with a problem.

I would also like to mention your title could be changed to something that indicates this is an article and you are trying to help. Presently the title looks like you are asking what UV to get. Just a suggestion. Perhaps something like "UV which one to get and why." Basically change the question mark to a period. JMHO.
 

revhtree

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With the recent buzz around UV Sterilizers thanks to a few videos from industry giants I have seen a lot more people talking about UV's. Naturally most people purchase what these industry leaders push / sell which is fine and dandy, but I suggest everyone do their own research.

When selecting the right UV you need to determine what it is that you are trying to control in your aquarium. Typically, most people select a UV to control either Algae (of various kinds) or parasites (of various kinds). Make sure you do not select a unit that is too undersized to do the job you are selecting the UV for. Also keep in mind selecting a very large unit could cause a lot of unwanted heat in your aquarium. UV's are essentially heaters that are on ALL the time unlike a normal heater that cycles on and off to regulate the temp. One other thing I see discussed from time to time is “part time usage” I have not personally done testing on only running a UV part time I.E. 12hrs on and 12hrs off, however Bulk Reef Supply makes suggestions that it is almost pointless and I tend to think the same.

One thing to keep in mind is the yearly maintenance cost for replacing O-rings, bulbs, seals, sleeves / liners (if replaceable). I also recommend checking around to make sure parts are readily available for the unit you are looking to purchase. What happens if the Quartz sleeve breaks? or the ballast goes out? can you buy those separately? What happens if you upgrade tanks and need to replumb it can you replace the end caps / fitting? No matter which unit you choose I highly recommend keeping up with the proper yearly maintenance to ensure your UV is always working optimally. Typically, after a year of use the bulbs output has been reduced by roughly 20-30% which is normally accounted for in the advertised rating of the unit but this is not always the case on cheaper units.

Of course keep in mind the overall size / dimensions of the unit. Will it fit where you need it to? Will you be able to remove it from your system semi-easily for its yearly maintenance? Does the unit come with mounting hardware or do you have to purchase that separately? Surprising most units do not come with a way to mount them. Do the fittings provide flexibility for different mounting options? What is the diameter of the housing? The larger the housing diameter the longer the contact time. The longer the contact time the better chances the UV will kill what you are trying to kill. Some companies use 2" housings some use 3"- 5" housing. Don’t get hung up on the input and output sizes as you can just reduce the fittings down to accommodate your current plumbing diameter. A 2” output can easily be reduced to 3/4'” pipe / hose (standard return sizing).

Keep in mind that the very components that the sterilizer is built out of (PVC) is also affected by the UV light. Most quality units are built out of UV resistant PVC, keyword is "resistant". Cheap units aren’t even built using UV resistant PVC. Some units have replaceable PVC liners protecting the actual housing. Some have lifetime warranties on the housings. Keep in mind most all warranties apply to the original owner with proof of purchase. Do you want to spend the extra time to replace liners yearly? or deal with possibly replacing the entire housing IF it should ever fail from UV exposer. I do suggest staying away from units not utilizing UV resistant PVC or units utilizing poor quality overseas PVC. As the UV exposure will quickly start breaking down the PVC and cause it to leech into your aquarium which can wreak havoc on your fish and corals.

Now, that is out of the way here is what "I" like and why "I" choose it. I choose the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX high output Amalgam 90watt unit for my 300+ gallon system. Cost was $396, it is a high-quality unit, all replacement parts are available, has replaceable PVC liners unlike most units on the market. The power supply has a countdown day meter (kind of like a reverse hour meter) that lets you know when it’s time to service the unit (no other unit has this feature). I also really like how the input and outputs can swivel which makes the mounting and plumbing options extremely flexible. I also like the low yearly maintenance cost, the fact it includes hardware to mount the unit, and it has an Amalgam bulb which maintains its light output better than standard bulbs.

Below are some price comparisons on actual UV sterilizers, yearly maintenance cost and spare parts. I obtained these prices from Marine Depot, Bulk Reef Supply, and Amazon. Pricing and availability may change and you may be able to find better pricing if shopping around at pond supply shops, online lighting shops or even purchasing your yearly supplies during Black Friday sales. Also keep in mind there are many other sizes, options and suppliers, these are just some of the more common units used on larger aquariums.


Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's pricing.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $274
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $396
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $643

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $399
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $739
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $779

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $436
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $476
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $756



Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's yearly maintenance cost.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" $74 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" $84 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3" $109 Includes bulb, O-rings, PVC liners / sleeves

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt $108 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt $100 includes bulb and O-rings
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt $110 includes bulb and O-rings

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt $95 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt $73 includes bulb and O-rings
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt $190 includes 2 bulb and O-rings

Some of the more popular UV sterilizer's cost to replace the ballast or the Quartz sleeve.

Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 55 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $35
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 90 watt 3" Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $38
Lifegard Aquatics Pro-MAX 120 watt 3"Ballast $138, Quartz sleeve $43

Pentair Aquatics 40 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 50 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $46
Pentair Aquatics 80 watt Ballast $133, Quartz sleeve $46

Aqua Ultraviolet 40 watt Ballast $107-$154, Quartz sleeve $84
Aqua Ultraviolet 57 watt Ballast $110, Quartz sleeve $51
Aqua Ultraviolet 80 watt Ballast $161, Quartz sleeve $168


I also want to note you may want to look into if the UV's power supplies have any known issues running through GFCI power outlets. I have read a lot of complaints lately that the Pentair's power supplies continually trip GFCI outlets every few hours. I would also take a few bad reviews as a grain of salt as more people tend to leave reviews when things aren’t working right rather than when everything is perfect.

Below is an old picture of a 360 watt UV that I use to run many moons ago. You will notice how you can actually see the UV light through the tubes because they have gotten so thin over the years of UV exposer. You will also see how repairs had to be made because the tubes got paper thin and they started leaking. This is one of the reasons why I like the replaceable sleeves on the Lifegard Pro-Max units.

I hope you Guys and Gals fine this little write up helpful in making a choice on the right UV for your application.

59E496B1-9D8F-4DDA-8BA9-3F3495F99FF4.jpeg

Thank you for taking the time to put this together!!
 

Daniel@R2R

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Thanks for getting this discussion going! I was thinking about the comment about them being like heaters that are always on, and it got me wondering about whether or not people with controllers might typically set those up like heaters so they come on at a certain temperature and turn off at a certain temperature?
 

SPR1968

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Thanks for getting this discussion going! I was thinking about the comment about them being like heaters that are always on, and it got me wondering about whether or not people with controllers might typically set those up like heaters so they come on at a certain temperature and turn off at a certain temperature?
I run them in both my systems Daniel, and they don’t have any noticeable effect on tank temperature at all. I’m sure they must have a nominal effect just of because what they are, but nothing of concern.

I run them 24/7 without any issues whatsoever
 
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Badilac

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I can say on my old system an IM112 I ran no chiller and my heater barely cycled on before I added a UV. After adding the 90watt UV and appropriate DC pump to power it I was forced to purchase a chiller. The DC pump was running at 50 watts and the UV was running at 85watts per the Apex. So in my particular case the UV and pump made a big difference, the difference of needing a chiller or not. Now on my new system it doesn't matter because I needed a chiller anyways.

Basically if someone is running a 100watt heater on and off throughout the day and they add a 55watt UV, with 35-45watt pump they are probably going to run into issues.
 

AZMSGT

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Thanks for getting this discussion going! I was thinking about the comment about them being like heaters that are always on, and it got me wondering about whether or not people with controllers might typically set those up like heaters so they come on at a certain temperature and turn off at a certain temperature?
I run my UV all the time. To have UV to be as effective as possible it has to get as much water and contact with that water. Otherwise your not using the equipment to it’s fullest extent. Running it part time would lessen it’s effectiveness.

I don’t know the cycle of the algae microbes when they are floating free in the water column and when they aren’t. I personally want to get as many of those microbes to pass through the UV and nuke them.

If heat build up in the system is a concern I think running a chiller post UV would help.
 
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I run my UV all the time. To have UV to be as effective as possible it has to get as much water and contact with that water. Otherwise your not using the equipment to it’s fullest extent. Running it part time would lessen it’s effectiveness.

I don’t know the cycle of the algae microbes when they are floating free in the water column and when they aren’t. I personally want to get as many of those microbes to pass through the UV and nuke them.

I agree and this is why BRS says running them part time is pointless or not as effective.
 

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If heat build up in the system is a concern I think running a chiller post UV would help.

Would this not cause the chiller to be run more frequently? I'm planning on the plumbing of my UV and chiller so I'm interested how people plumbed their UV vs Chiller. Also the Teco chiller I got states something like Maximum 211 GPH, while the UV i got requires 5x,6x7x that amount.
Dam... thinking that now I need to drill my new tank for a closed loop UV.
 
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Yes the flow rates for chillers and UV’s are almost always way different. Honestly it is best that both the chiller and UV’s are returned directly into the DT separately. This doesn’t mean you have to have 2 different return nozzles although that is best for the aesthetics of the Aquarium.
 

AZMSGT

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Would this not cause the chiller to be run more frequently? I'm planning on the plumbing of my UV and chiller so I'm interested how people plumbed their UV vs Chiller. Also the Teco chiller I got states something like Maximum 211 GPH, while the UV i got requires 5x,6x7x that amount.
Dam... thinking that now I need to drill my new tank for a closed loop UV.
First you need to really decide if a chiller is required. I live in Phoenix Arizona and my 130g tank doesn't need a chiller. I run a set of GHL fans on the surface of the water. They do the job just fine In the summer time. The UV really doesn’t generate that much heat on a bigger system. It really depends on what temp you keep your home at.
 

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First you need to really decide if a chiller is required. I live in Phoenix Arizona and my 130g tank doesn't need a chiller. I run a set of GHL fans on the surface of the water. They do the job just fine In the summer time. The UV really doesn’t generate that much heat on a bigger system. It really depends on what temp you keep your home at.
Thanks for the response. I used to have a 40gallon but it was lit with 2 actinic VHOs and 1 175w HM (about 15-20 years ago). Going to set up RSR 900 with LEDs. My home AC is set at 78, and the added heat from lights, pumps, UV,, makes me feel that the chiller will be needed, especially in the summer (So. Cal). Also, the tank will be in the dining area which is open to the kitchen and the kitchen always seems to be a couple degrees warmer than the rest of the house. Ah... and I already bought the chiller. Lol.
 

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If you are going to do a price compair like this lets play fair. I really like the lifeguards too but you should edit your post with this in place of the 80 watt pentair
Their 120W is only $720 pentair/emperor aquatics are same thing
Note a 5 inch housing is not always better than a 3 inch housing as UV kill rate falls off at the square of the distance meaning at the edge of the 5 inch housing you have far weaker UV than at the edge of the 3 inch housing . So if you are trying to kill some really hard to kill stuff it's very likely at the edge of the 5 inch housing you don't have strong enough UV to do the job.
Note I run the 120W 3inch housing lifeguard pro-max.
 
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Badilac

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If you are going to do a price compair like this lets play fair. I really like the lifeguards too but you should edit your post with this in place of the 80 watt pentair
Their 120W is only $720 pentair/emperor aquatics are same thing
Note a 5 inch housing is not always better than a 3 inch housing as UV kill rate falls off at the square of the distance meaning at the edge of the 5 inch housing you have far weaker UV than at the edge of the 3 inch housing . So if you are trying to kill some really hard to kill stuff it's very likely at the edge of the 5 inch housing you don't have strong enough UV to do the job.
Note I run the 120W 3 inch housing lifeguard pro-max.

Thanks for your input on housing sizes, I was trying to keep this as simple as possible but of course there are outliers to the basics. Also I honestly wasn't trying to pick all the top UV’s for the price comparison. I was simply choosing the ones I most often see posted about the Pentair and AquaUV the reason I added the Pro-MAX was because it was what “I” choose. All of this is just to show there are other options / things to consider and each person should do their own research to to pick the best unit for their needs.
 

le fou

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I have a total of 170 gallons and I would like to have my U.V for protozoa control. I am assuming that I need at least 3 times my volume per hour through the UV so a total of 510 gallons per hour. I am also assuming that I need 180,000 µW/cm2 to control protozoa. Based on all of this, I think that I at least need 57 watts UV for my purpose?
But different manufacturers have different ratings, for instance Aqua UV 57 watts will work but I need a 90 watts from Lifegard aquatics to get the same results.
Do people agree with my findings or am I completely off?

Thanks a lot!
 

Jaebster

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I have a total of 170 gallons and I would like to have my U.V for protozoa control. I am assuming that I need at least 3 times my volume per hour through the UV so a total of 510 gallons per hour. I am also assuming that I need 180,000 µW/cm2 to control protozoa. Based on all of this, I think that I at least need 57 watts UV for my purpose?
But different manufacturers have different ratings, for instance Aqua UV 57 watts will work but I need a 90 watts from Lifegard aquatics to get the same results.
Do people agree with my findings or am I completely off?

Thanks a lot!
To be honest with you, I dont know. I'm still trying to figure it out too before I make my setup permanent. I got the lifegard 3" 55 watt which has a max flow rating of about 2,500 GPH. I have a 240 gallon tank/sump but true water volume will be about 200 gallons I guess. Have to figure out some calculations myself. Sorry I'm not help.
 

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