Want to supplement my Radion Blues with white light

oreo54

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You can use the knobs, the software sucks, but the software is navigatable. You could figure it out, but I still wouldn't buy them.

Is the fake Kessil only 2 channels like the real thing..
Goes from blue to white?
Does the power change? ...i.e no kessil logic?
 

TranceLvr

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This is a timely thread because I feel the same way about my XR30 Blues. I love the coral growth, but it is too blue. I'm interested to see what solution you end up choosing.
 

telegraham

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Here are my current PAR levels at 100% output:
...but do you really want to be running your lights at 100%?

If you wanted to just add some white, consider the Nicrew 50. They are small like the XR15s. Ramp the Radions, then timer on the Nicrew. They can also be dimmed with 0-10V. They are returnable on Amazon if you decide they aren't for you.
 
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Sirlagzalott

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...but do you really want to be running your lights at 100%?

If you wanted to just add some white, consider the Nicrew 50. They are small like the XR15s. Ramp the Radions, then timer on the Nicrew. They can also be dimmed with 0-10V. They are returnable on Amazon if you decide they aren't for you.
I would definitely prefer to run them lower. More light is definitely in order. I still pine for the days of MH. There was a time when a single 250W MH with a decent reflector would have covered this tank. One and done....
 

AKReefing

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I currently have 2 XR-15 Radion Blues (G6) over my tank (IM 75INT). I'm getting good PAR readings but aesthetically, the tank is just too blue for my liking. I have them set to AB+ which has all channels 100%. Whenever I dial back the blue settings, the PAR crashes so I don't want to tune them back. I'm toying with the idea of adding a 3rd light tuned to the white spectrum purely for aesthetic purposes. Since this is a luxury and not a need, I'm looking for an inexpensive option. Any ideas?
Interesting. True AB+ isn't 100% white, red or green.
 

oreo54

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Interesting. True AB+ isn't 100% white, red or green.
AB+ is based on 80% ATI Blue plus 20% ATI aquablue special.
The "blue" radion is supposedly designed to emulate that at 100% on all channels.
Doing ab+ on the pro or other lights usually means dimming the red/green..
This is an estimate of that ATI combination.
abplus8020.JPG
 

OctaviusBrine

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I have two gen 5 blues on mine and added a grow blade for more coverage as I was starting to get shadowing. Still blue but not nearly as dark blue. It gave me a nice little ph bump and I was able to turn down my gen 5s a bit.
 

AKReefing

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AB+ is based on 80% ATI Blue plus 20% ATI aquablue special.
The "blue" radion is supposedly designed to emulate that at 100% on all channels.
Doing ab+ on the pro or other lights usually means dimming the red/green..
This is an estimate of that ATI combination.
abplus8020.JPG
Sounds like a direct lift from the BRS video

The funny thing is the graphic you're using iss not relevant to corals, which don't have chlorophyll b, but DO have chlorophyll c2. Your graphis is for plants.
 

Charles Zinn

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I currently have 2 XR-15 Radion Blues (G6) over my tank (IM 75INT). I'm getting good PAR readings but aesthetically, the tank is just too blue for my liking. I have them set to AB+ which has all channels 100%. Whenever I dial back the blue settings, the PAR crashes so I don't want to tune them back. I'm toying with the idea of adding a 3rd light tuned to the white spectrum purely for aesthetic purposes. Since this is a luxury and not a need, I'm looking for an inexpensive option. Any ideas?
I curemtly have several types of lighyt on my Planet tank. started with RedSea 90's as they are getting old and crapping out I added a radion xr*15 Blue gen 6, liked the balance but have issues with mobius so as mor red seas went south I added AI Hydra 32's love the whiteness of the light . So I would put an AI Hydra between your Radion'
 

oreo54

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Sounds like a direct lift from the BRS video

The funny thing is the graphic you're using iss not relevant to corals, which don't have chlorophyll b, but DO have chlorophyll c2. Your graphis is for plants.

Sorry was a screen capture prior to their updating the software..
ab+newver.JPG


The 80/20 ratio was taken from the orig paper..
 

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Hhaynie

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Add some Twinstars to supplement your reef lights, The brand has an incredible reputation with freshwater aquascapers and will make your fish look unreal. If you want control, Chihiros has some amazing lighting for a higher price.
 

telegraham

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Interesting. True AB+ isn't 100% white, red or green.
Oreo mentioned it, but the Blue versions require all channels at 100% to approximate AB+; however, AB+ has changed over the last four Radion generations. It's now a marketing term (if it wasn't already that when originally released).
 

AKReefing

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Oreo mentioned it, but the Blue versions require all channels at 100% to approximate AB+; however, AB+ has changed over the last four Radion generations. It's now a marketing term (if it wasn't already that when originally released).
I would agree with that. I mean, why would Red Sea market a coral supplement as Reef Energy Plus (AB+)? Nothing like misleading the hobbyist with something most people don't understand.
 

oreo54

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I would agree with that. I mean, why would Red Sea market a coral supplement as Reef Energy Plus (AB+)? Nothing like misleading the hobbyist with something most people don't understand.
They should read the "origin story"..
ab+page.JPG

Oddly I think the statement that t5'd outperformed mh was more bothersome to some than the led implications..
Of course the disclaimer "most not all"..

:)Coral Labs Initiative (Partnership with EcoTech Marine)
 
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AKReefing

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They should read the "origin story"..

Oddly I think the statement that t5'd outperformed mh was more bothersome to some than the led implications..
Of course the disclaimer "most not all"..

:)Coral Labs Initiative (Partnership with EcoTech Marine)
LEDs have progressed since G3 Radions came out a decade ago. Different spectrum, better spread, and a lot more power. I suspect T5s are in their twilight years, and with the current administration, all halides' days are numbered.
 
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Sirlagzalott

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LEDs have progressed since G3 Radions came out a decade ago. Different spectrum, better spread, and a lot more power. I suspect T5s are in their twilight years, and with the current administration, all halides' days are numbered.
Agree. Europe as well has been pushing away from traditional lighting methods. I will continue to lament the death of MH.
 

oreo54

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LEDs have progressed since G3 Radions came out a decade ago. Different spectrum, better spread, and a lot more power. I suspect T5s are in their twilight years, and with the current administration, all halides' days are numbered.
Halide disappearance will depend on manufacturers.
As a side note even CA did not "ban" t5's for aquariums as long as they had a certain % of blue..
In other words normal lighting (6500ish and lower) would be banned. Ati blue plus.. no.
Agree. Europe as well has been pushing away from traditional lighting methods. I will continue to lament the death of MH.
There is no MH ban in the EU.. Any future ban is quite a bit in the future barring things changing like UV leds or led "bulbs" that can compete w/ 1000-2000w (probably 400 or greater) stadium lamps.
Little sizes will probably go away.. Wont be worth manufacturing.

In the vein of careful what you say.. an "update"
An upcoming European Union regulation is about to shut down lamp-based projectors across the continent. Starting January 1st, 2026 the powerful Metal halide and UHP (Ultra High Performance) light-bulbs commonly used in DLP and LCD projectors for home theater, office and in classrooms will no longer be available.Feb 29, 2024

THE CATCH to all this light stuff is "If leds (or related) can physically and can economically replace other technology".
Special use or not it all really hinges on that..
Then of course a delay of years..
 
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Sirlagzalott

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Halide disappearance will depend on manufacturers.
As a side note even CA did not "ban" t5's for aquariums as long as they had a certain % of blue..
In other words normal lighting (6500ish and lower) would be banned. Ati blue plus.. no.

There is no MH ban in the EU.. Any future ban is quite a bit in the future barring things changing like UV leds or led "bulbs" that can compete w/ 1000-2000w stadium lamps.
Little sizes will probably go away.. Wont be worth manufacturing.
Maybe I should clarify. I know they're not banned. I guess what I mean by "death of MH" is their fall from being the gold standard. "Back in the day" I would have been able to effectively light this tank with a single 250W MH and a decent reflector. I'm now finding I'm going to need $1,300 in LED's.

I don't blame manufacturers for reading the "tea leaves" and moving away from them. Commercial halides will linger as long as there is viability in commercial lighting but specialty niche bulbs have no future....
 

oreo54

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Maybe I should clarify. I know they're not banned. I guess what I mean by "death of MH" is their fall from being the gold standard. "Back in the day" I would have been able to effectively light this tank with a single 250W MH and a decent reflector. I'm now finding I'm going to need $1,300 in LED's.

I don't blame manufacturers for reading the "tea leaves" and moving away from them. Commercial halides will linger as long as there is viability in commercial lighting but specialty niche bulbs have no future....
I actualy am not too worried about niche bulbs for now... But it will be a lot/lot type supply.
The batches will get smaller as to not have overstock and as such will go "missing" in cycles.
Radium said and I quote "....production for now"..
Those tea leaves are worth reading.
My take is that they found enough commercial demand like aquariums and will batch according to perceived demand. with a bone thrown to "hobbyists".
All the old big players are out afaict.. Osram, GE ect..

Besides China doesn't care about a little mercury.. the issue will be not getting bulbs but lot/lot variability and quality..

Of course all of this is sort of like little knives poking the market.. until its gone.

300W of Nicrews is $450...The $1300 is really more of a choice.

Currently IF one did a new fixture, new ballast, and new bulb your 250w mh would cost about $600.
Add $50-$100 every 2 years. And electronic ballasts.. Don't count on those lasting 5 years.. well not all of them.
Heck even in the old days recapping mh's ballasts had their own market. if I remeber correctly. Rebuolding icecap ballasts.
Oh and you will probably add either t5's or leds anyways.. :)
Upping the cost of course. A reefbrite w/ leds is $50 for the fixture.. add ballast a nd bulb of course.
Point is it isn't all puppies and roses.

One 195W GHL Mitras 7206 is 195 watts but costs $900 plus mount..
Replaceable LED panels.. Reflectors so no spotlighting tir lenses..

Soo 2x the cost of a mh setup but with more "stuff".. :)

Now to be fair one would need to decide if 1 Mitras = 1 250w mh in regards to par..
I cant swear by this but the 2 look pretty equal.
Each thread has a par map.Sure ther are the other arguable points
 

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