Water changes with a sump

Susan Edwards

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Okay, this might seem like a silly question but as I've not had a tank with sump, I'm not sure how you do water changes.

If I have a manifold, I know I can use this. But what is the procedure
Do I just open valve and let the return pump pump out what I want? (via hose into sink or container)
Is it better to siphon from tank? Or if I choose to do so, I turn off return pump
If I use a transfer pump to clean out sump (skimmer area) do I turn off return pump
Assuming of course if I clean the return pump chamber, I have to turn off pump.

What is the best way or ways to do water changes when one has a sump. I've only worked with AIO's
 

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I'm sure there are many different ways to do this, but here's what I do.

First I turn off my ATO and return pump. If I wish to clean up the DT (lightly siphon the sand), I'll take the water out of the DT. If I'm in a rush, I'll suspend a MAG into the DT and pump the water out. I actually use a Brute for my waste water so that I know how much I've taken out.

If I wish to clean up the sump, I'll pump the water out of the sump.

In all cases the new water gets pumped into the sump with the return pump turned on.
 

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I'm sure there are many different ways to do this, but here's what I do.

First I turn off my ATO and return pump. If I wish to clean up the DT (lightly siphon the sand), I'll take the water out of the DT. If I'm in a rush, I'll suspend a MAG into the DT and pump the water out. I actually use a Brute for my waste water so that I know how much I've taken out.

If I wish to clean up the sump, I'll pump the water out of the sump.

In all cases the new water gets pumped into the sump with the return pump turned on.

I do the same thing !
 

danschoenherr

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I just finished my new 80g build with a 55g sump in the basement. I built a manifold which is fed by the return pump. On the far left, is a valve and then a hose that I will use for water changes. The hose can also be used to blow the detritus out of the sump. There is a valve in the return line above the manifold that, after the return pump is off, I can close, then open the water change valve and turn the return pump on. This would pump out the return portion of the sump, which is pretty large. When done, turn off the pump, close the water change valve and open the return valve, fill sump back up with new saltwater to normal level and turn pump back on. On the right end of my sump, I have a fuge area also that I ran another line off of the manifold with a gate valve to run a slower flow through the fuge. I kind of "winged it" and got lucky as the flow works pretty nicely and I don't see any reason why the water change part should be a problem.
 

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I do it like @redfishbluefish except I put the new water in to the tank directly from my mixing station. I know as soon as the water rises to the level of the return line I've replaced exactly as much water as I removed. Comes in handy if I decide to do a water change volume other than the usual 25 gallon I usually do.
 
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Susan Edwards

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Cool, thanks everyone. Here is my plumbing diagram. Do I have the manifold in the correct place to use for water changes? Do I need changes? Should I use one manifold to feed into the fuge area? or will flow from skimmer area be enough. Do I need another valve before the ball valves on the other side? My sump btw is a bashsea bio fuge 36 " so not exactly like I have the drawing below. Appreciate all help. This is all greek to me...
125 tank 3.jpg
 
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Susan Edwards

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I'm sure there are many different ways to do this, but here's what I do.

First I turn off my ATO and return pump. If I wish to clean up the DT (lightly siphon the sand), I'll take the water out of the DT. If I'm in a rush, I'll suspend a MAG into the DT and pump the water out. I actually use a Brute for my waste water so that I know how much I've taken out.

.

What is a "MAG" And I also plan on using a brute so I know how much to put back in.
 
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Susan Edwards

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I vacuum the sump using a 12 gal shop vac. It’s very easy that way and the sump stays nice and clean.

Was going to consider buying a small shop vac but something larger than the ones that fit on the 5 gal buckets or look at the water transfer pumps.
 
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Susan Edwards

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I just finished my new 80g build with a 55g sump in the basement. I built a manifold which is fed by the return pump. On the far left, is a valve and then a hose that I will use for water changes. The hose can also be used to blow the detritus out of the sump. There is a valve in the return line above the manifold that, after the return pump is off, I can close, then open the water change valve and turn the return pump on. This would pump out the return portion of the sump, which is pretty large. When done, turn off the pump, close the water change valve and open the return valve, fill sump back up with new saltwater to normal level and turn pump back on. On the right end of my sump, I have a fuge area also that I ran another line off of the manifold with a gate valve to run a slower flow through the fuge. I kind of "winged it" and got lucky as the flow works pretty nicely and I don't see any reason why the water change part should be a problem.
Do you have a pic of your plumbing. I have 2 return lines, so used a T to branch from pump to each overflow.
 
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Susan Edwards

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Okay, I think maybe this is better for a manifold to use for water changes? I fixed the drawing and added a sep. manifold instead of using the return line. Is this better or was the original plan just as good. Tried to simplify it as well. New manifold is pink. I'll be using a dc pump so don't have any ball valves going to tank returns. Do they need them just in case?

125 tank 4.jpg
 

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I would add that as well as turning off the ato to prevent salinity dropping, heaters should be turned off if their compartment will be drained.
 

redfishbluefish

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What is a "MAG" And I also plan on using a brute so I know how much to put back in.

MAG pumps are the workhorse of pumps....been around for years. I originally used a MAG 9.5 as my return pump....since changed to a DC pump. I have a bunch of these sitting around, from MAG 7, MAG 9,5, MAG 18 and MAG 24. They live forever. I currently use a MAG 9.5 for water changes, but here's a picture of a MAG 7 that I first used when I was only doing 15 gallon changes. This pump has simple pipe fitting to empty the Brute with a hose connector on the exit port.

MAG Pump Waterchanges.jpg



HERE is the simple DIY, with parts identified, for that hose connector.


EDIT TO ADD:

Just found pics of my current MAG 9.5 water change pump, and a comparison of my MAG 7 versus MAG 9.5 water change pumps:

MAG95 in Brute.jpg

MAG 7 versus MAG 95.jpg
 
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I do the same as Dogtown does. I run with no filter sock, no filter floss etc in the sump so detritus settles in the sump easiest way to get that out is with a shop vac. I only change out approx 2 gal every month to clean the bottom of the sump.
 
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Susan Edwards

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@Finhead thanks. I'd considering going sockless. Was thinking about these plastic cups with filter floss but not sure I can get them in with out taking apart the 2 lines plumbed into the sump. The socks are hard enough as you have to squeeze and futz with them to get them out.
thanks @redfishbluefish. I have a regular pump in my current station for pumping water back into tank. I'll have to get longer hoses as I won't be able to bring the brute cans into the living room as it is a step down so will run it from kitchen. It means having a valve at the tank end so I can shut it off and run back to turn pump off. Have to work out the whole water change scenario. For my 66 I just wheel at 20 gal into my office, siphon out into a 10 gal and fill with pump in the 20 gal. Looking into also getting a bigger water storage to maybe keep outside the back door (covered in black plastic to ward off algae as our summers are hot), use a hose to fill a 44 gal inside to mix salt for both tank and use hoses to fill or wheel the can to entry way for this tank, then to office for other. More logistics....
 
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Susan Edwards

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@Finhead thanks. I'd considering going sockless. Was thinking about these plastic cups with filter floss but not sure I can get them in with out taking apart the 2 lines plumbed into the sump. The socks are hard enough as you have to squeeze and futz with them to get them out.
thanks @redfishbluefish. I have a regular pump in my current station for pumping water back into tank. I'll have to get longer hoses as I won't be able to bring the brute cans into the living room as it is a step down so will run it from kitchen. It means having a valve at the tank end so I can shut it off and run back to turn pump off. Have to work out the whole water change scenario. For my 66 I just wheel at 20 gal into my office, siphon out into a 10 gal and fill with pump in the 20 gal. Looking into also getting a bigger water storage to maybe keep outside the back door (covered in black plastic to ward off algae as our summers are hot), use a hose to fill a 44 gal inside to mix salt for both tank and use hoses to fill or wheel the can to entry way for this tank, then to office for other. More logistics....
 
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Susan Edwards

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@Finhead thanks. I'd considering going sockless. Was thinking about these plastic cups with filter floss but not sure I can get them in with out taking apart the 2 lines plumbed into the sump. The socks are hard enough as you have to squeeze and futz with them to get them out.
thanks @redfishbluefish. I have a regular pump in my current station for pumping water back into tank. I'll have to get longer hoses as I won't be able to bring the brute cans into the living room as it is a step down so will run it from kitchen. It means having a valve at the tank end so I can shut it off and run back to turn pump off. Have to work out the whole water change scenario. For my 66 I just wheel at 20 gal into my office, siphon out into a 10 gal and fill with pump in the 20 gal. Looking into also getting a bigger water storage to maybe keep outside the back door (covered in black plastic to ward off algae as our summers are hot), use a hose to fill a 44 gal inside to mix salt for both tank and use hoses to fill or wheel the can to entry way for this tank, then to office for other. More logistics....
 

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