Well water degassing

OK - it sounds like you are in need of some instrumentation if you want to troubleshoot the system.

Our TDS meters are here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/meters-and-controllers/

Also get a Premium Pressure Gauge Kit here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/pressure-gauges-1/

We currently have a 20% off sale going.
I know when I first set this up without the smart buddie pump I had roughly 36 TDS.
The fact that you were burning through resin is due entirely to the fact that you were running 210 tds water into the resin. Now that that's fixed, the problem should be solved.
Well I had this problem before though. And I started with the smart buddie thinking I didn't have enough psi from the tap. Then went to degassing water and still hasn't fixed it.
 
Okay so just some info for everyone, I hooked everything up after changing all filters, resins, and membranes, and I'm getting around 210tds into the cation resin after the membranes. For more info I have the dual membranes
Thats terrible.....you talking after the ro membrane its 210 tds???
 
lol my tds after the softener and before the membranes is 560 tds, after the dual membranes it’s 5 tds, and after the two mixed beds and an anion it’s 0. I get about 60 gallons out of 1 canister of mixed bed resin, I have very high iron and I know I have a silicate issue with my well water, I live in rural north central Ohio.
 
When I change all filters and membranes the unit will make close to 30 gallons of water out of a 35g degassing chamber
If you get 30g of product water out of 35g of source water, something is seriously wrong with the setup that has nothing to do with CO2. From 35g of source water, a person should expect something less than 10g of product water.

If this were my system, I would suspect that something in the waste line is clogged -- possibly the flow restrictor (or: do you run the waste line outside? If so, it might be frozen shut). But I do agree with Buckeye that you (also) need to get a handle on pressure and TDS in order to fully troubleshoot.
 
If you get 30g of product water out of 35g of source water, something is seriously wrong with the setup that has nothing to do with CO2. From 35g of source water, a person should expect something less than 10g of product water.

If this were my system, I would suspect that something in the waste line is clogged -- possibly the flow restrictor (or: do you run the waste line outside? If so, it might be frozen shut). But I do agree with Buckeye that you (also) need to get a handle on pressure and TDS in order to fully troubleshoot.
Before I added a water saver kit from brs it was around 50:50
 
Yeah. Took forever to find but I got it. Is it possible I oversized my rodi? Or is that even possible?
bigger just makes more water but can waste higher amounts too. Being on a well i guess makes little difference
 
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You're running two membranes in series, and getting zero TDS product water? That seems somewhat unlikely.

I wonder why you're running membranes in series if you're on a well. What's the point of saving that water?
 
I just wanted to see if it would make more water is all so I added the extra 75gpd membrane and it works well unless I'm misunderstanding something here
 
What are you using for a TDS meter? And are you sure it's accurate?
 
There are 3 ways to run dual membranes,

The first runs them in series where the second membrane processes product water from the first membrane and has 2 brine lines to a drain. This is wasteful and not necessary, but allows you to get super long life from your resins. Since you are getting 0 tds out of the second membrane this is likely how yours in plumbed.

The second way to run dual membranes is to process the waste from the first membrane with the second. This is typically used when water conservation is important, it will always raise the overall tds and consume more of your resin life, but greatly reduces the brine to the drain.

The 3rd method just runs 2 membranes in parallel. You T off the booster pump to feed both membranes, and recombine the product water before the resins. You will have 2 brine lines, and if you use a float valve on your storage container you will need a shut off valve for each brine line as they work independently. I use mine this way and it literally is like having 2 RO systems, it makes water twice as fast. I can make 5 gallons in about 23 minutes @ 65 psi.

You really need to monitor pre and post membrane tds, as well as the tds after each resin stage. In addition it is a good idea to monitor the water pressures of your tap, post mechanical /chemical filters and post booster pump. You can diagnose your system faults by knowing these values.

And most importantly, to prolong the life of your resins it is imperative to bypass your resins to the drain until the tds has stabilized after you first start making water. The tds inside the membrane will equalize and could take up to 10 minutes of use before your target tds is achieved. If you monitor it at all of the points you'll see what I'm talking about.

Make sure you have the correct restrictors in the brine lines. Depending on the TDS of your raw water, you should run 3:1 to 4:1 for the longest membrane life. I don't know off the top of my head which restrictor you need but that info is easily obtainable on the internet.

Degassing well water may or may not be necessary, a C02 test is necessary to determine that. If your pH rises by just letting the water sit overnight there's a good chance it contains excessive C02. I'm transitioning to well water and will probably have to do the same thing.

🙂
 
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lol my tds after the softener and before the membranes is 560 tds, after the dual membranes it’s 5 tds, and after the two mixed beds and an anion it’s 0. I get about 60 gallons out of 1 canister of mixed bed resin, I have very high iron and I know I have a silicate issue with my well water, I live in rural north central Ohio.
You should not have two membranes plumbed in series with high iron...
 
I just wanted to see if it would make more water is all so I added the extra 75gpd membrane and it works well unless I'm misunderstanding something here
Ah, I saw 'water saver kit' and that you're making 'close to 30 gallons of water out of a 35g' and my brain registered that you were using it as a water saver (that is, as klc's option #2).

It is still apparent that there's some larger issue here. It isn't plausible that a boost in pressure above 50psi brought tds from 36 to zero, for example, and the fact that you had 210 tds after the membrane at some point indicates something amiss beyond CO2 as well.

Knowing the tds and pressure at all points in the system would help figure it out.
 
Yeah I'm going to work on getting that info. I think I have a different issue though. The smart buddie pump isn't wasting any water from the membrane. I bypassed the solenoid valve and tried using a ball valve to create back pressure and it still wasn't making product water nor waste.
 
Yeah I'm going to work on getting that info. I think I have a different issue though. The smart buddie pump isn't wasting any water from the membrane. I bypassed the solenoid valve and tried using a ball valve to create back pressure and it still wasn't making product water nor waste.
I just have a BRS booster pump. I like how the Smart Buddie flushes the membrane automatically but all those connections were a little confusing when I first started looking at them. I have to manually flush and remember to do it and to reset it back to making water kind of a pain.

So you are getting no waste water at all? Something is definitely wrong with that. Maybe you messed up plugging in all those lines? That was what "scared" me off of it.

Glad you figured out the tds thing that was really high. My source tds is in the 400 (before the softener) range and before the resin its around 10. I dont know what that 10 is and like you I burn through anion. I have noticed when I switch out my resin the spent resin starts to turn blue again in a few days (color changing resin blue to gold), I started saving the old resin to regenerate it. That had me start thinking it was co2 and maybe it was off gassing from the resin, but doing a ph test outside so I know ambient co2 should not be a factor the ph didnt change even with air stones. So with that test done (yeah I dont know the quality of the ph probe so maybe there was a change that this cheap pen could not detect) I started thinking silicates. From reading online the anion stage would be removing them. I know when I first moved into the house I had a test done on the well water. I know silicates were detected at above average but not in the cant drink it realm. I need to retest at some point. The main things I can remember are ph, gh, kh, were all high. Gh and kh were over 14 I dont remember ph exactly but obviously it was quite high as well. The water softener fixed those numbers to a point. I have an ro unit for drinking water.
 
Yeah I thought I ha plumbed it wrong, double checked and it's all good. I think the waste solenoid went bad and my check valve/restrictor went out on the product side. The waste solenoid should be in all the time and it's not opening so I bypassed it with a ball valve that's just barely cracked open to create a restriction and I bypassed the check valve as well. TDS is still around 100 before the resin which is way better than the 400-500 it was reading last night. So now I'm making making and wasting water so I'll take that. Going to order a new buddie pump as well. Still have not figured out why it's burning through resin but I'll figure that one out later.
 

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