Well water degassing
- Thread starter kpreslicka
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fish_collector
Valuable Member
When you get to where you want to be with your RODI let us know what you did. There are several of our club members who run their membranes in series, it’s not ideal but it does work to reduce their resin consumption.
c4haskett
Active Member
I am currently going through something similar and here is how I fixed it. I am on well water using a 7 stage BRS system. I run source water through my sediment, carbon and RO membrane to a brute trash can where I off gas for 24-48 hours. I then use a pump to push water through the DI stages and into another brute trash can. You have to off gas it after the RO/Sediment/Carbon Block stage.
kpreslicka
Community Member
Yeah I was doing that before except I was off gassing after the pre-filters because the way that smart buddie pump is plumbed I could do it after the membrane. I found out CO2 isn't the issue though because my ph is 7.7 roughly out of the faucet
twentyleagues
5000 Club Member
What pump do you use? How are you off gassing? Just passively or with air pump?
kpreslicka
Community Member
I was off gassing by using a bunch of air stones in the barrel. I was using an ato pump to pump it up to my smart buddie pump where that would push through the membrane and di.
twentyleagues
5000 Club Member
Mine is the same. I still think it may be co2 though, I know it does not make any sense. When you and @Buckeye Hydro talk and get this hopefully figured out can you please tell us what you found?
twentyleagues
5000 Club Member
Yeah but you were still having the issue sounds like @c4haskett did it with success.
I have asked this question a couple times with little to go off of. My main thinking for this co2 even with high ph is the completely spent resin canister will turn blue again when dumped out of the canister with in 48hrs. My though is co2 off gassing. I am probably wrong as I am not a chemist or water purification expert. I tested hypotheses that were given such as some of the canister was not spent. I made sure to spend the whole canister every pearl was gold and some of my mixed bed had started to go gold as well, I usually replace before that happens. Still started to turn blue within 48hrs after a week 90% was blue.
kpreslicka
Community Member
Yeah I definitely will. Off gassing helped a little but not much
c4haskett
Active Member
Im using a Sicce 1.0 with a 1/4 adapter. It doesnt work well so I am looking to change. I am off-gassing using a couple pumps pointed at the surface.
I do not know why but the concentration of C02 is higher after it goes through the membrane. Thats why it's important to off-gass AFTER it has ran through the pre filter stage. Give me a minute. I'll send you a video explaining it.
kpreslicka
Community Member
Interesting I never could find info why it was never after the membrane
twentyleagues
5000 Club Member
Ahh see I dont have low ph. I will watch it tonight though. My thought is to put my air pump (big guy) I use for my fresh water tanks outside in an enclosure with filtered air and run a pipe into the house. I could T off it to supply a degassing tank for ro water. I know my ambient basement co2 is around 800 so just off gassing there would do little. Basically looking for the correct pump to use to pump it through the resin.
Yes I ran ph tests and it changed little if at all 7.8ish to same. I dont know if the .03-.04 or whatever it was would indicate enough of a change or was just test error.
kpreslicka
Community Member
Im thinking about ordering a booster pump to pump through my resin in addition to the smart buddie so I can off gas after the membrane
twentyleagues
5000 Club Member
Let me know what you guys do that works! I am looking for the most cost effective method though.
On the booster pump doesnt that need supplied pressure to work?
Also I am not in any hurry. What I am doint works atm and once I start regenerating the resin it will be much cheaper.
kpreslicka
Community Member
The smart buddie does. The older ones needed to see 35psi the way I understand but the new ones only need to see like 5psi.
twentyleagues
5000 Club Member
So I guess a better question would be what kind of pressure or flow rate would be needed to run the degassed ro water through the resin stages?
There's a few aspects of that system that could be optimism easily:
1. The user is on well water, so no chlorine and no need for two carbon blocks. Go for a single 5 mic carbon block. Remember that you pay a price for every unneeded filter stage. Don't fall for the "more filters are better" approach.
2. Put the intake of your air pump somewhere outside where it can get fresh (low CO2) air. It looks like his air pump is right near the opening at the top of the tank, so he's likely pumping relatively high CO2 air through his water.
3. You are trying to maximize gas exchange - so use an open top barrel rather than a closed-top tank. At a minimum take that lid off.
4. Don't waste your money buying low end/cheap pH meters. Go cheap on your TDS meters but not pH meters.
5. Put the booster pump inline AFTER the prefilter housings.
6. His feedwater is softened - so he can likely get away with two membranes plumbed in series and a reduced flow of concentrate.
7. Use tubing clamps if you want to clean up your tubing runs.
Russ
Last edited:
KStatefan
5000 Club Member
I use a Tunze ATO pump you do not need much flow When that goes out I might switch to a different pump but not sure it would change anything. My degassing chamber is a section of 4" PVC that has a air stone at the bottom. That over flows into a 5 gallon water can that has a high/low tank controller hooked up on it upsidedown to remove water with the tunze pump to the DI resin.
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