Well water

Debramb

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Hi guys, really need out of box thinking. Our 250’ deep well is in solid limestone. The R/OD/I resin is burning out and the Alkaline level is about 15. Does anyone heave this problem and thank God, what did you do???
Happy Easter, Debra
 

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Hi guys, really need out of box thinking. Our 250’ deep well is in solid limestone. The R/OD/I resin is burning out and the Alkaline level is about 15. Does anyone heave this problem and thank God, what did you do???
Happy Easter, Debra
Yeah I'm on a well and my water is crazy hard too. I go through Anion resin in like 400g (probably less). Have not seen a color change on the Cation or mixed bed at all. Last time I refilled the Anion I also did the Cation just in case it had come with noncolor changing I have made 50g and the anion is 10% roughly used no color change on the cation. I have heard that it can be caused by CO2 but thats not the case with mine or probably yours. I had it narrowed down to what I thought was silicates but then someone said probably not as these would also deplete cation I think it was @Randy Holmes-Farley. So I am unsure whats doing it but my water is coming out at 0 tds so I guess its all good.
I dont have a good answer for you sorry, but I am sitting right next to you in this same boat.
 
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Debramb

Debramb

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Yeah I'm on a well and my water is crazy hard too. I go through Anion resin in like 400g (probably less). Have not seen a color change on the Cation or mixed bed at all. Last time I refilled the Anion I also did the Cation just in case it had come with noncolor changing I have made 50g and the anion is 10% roughly used no color change on the cation. I have heard that it can be caused by CO2 but thats not the case with mine or probably yours. I had it narrowed down to what I thought was silicates but then someone said probably not as these would also deplete cation I think it was @Randy Holmes-Farley. So I am unsure whats doing it but my water is coming out at 0 tds so I guess its all good.
I dont have a good answer for you sorry, but I am sitting right next to you in this same boat.
Awe, thanks for your response! I do enjoy the shells and fossils we’ve found in our 3/1/2 acres! North Texas was a sea at on time. The funny thing about this is R/O/I had been great, Alkaline measures were perfect in January and first of February. I can probably track back to when it escalated. I think we need to test the water. Good input on silicates. We do have at least 3 pineapple sponges. Ones about Kennedy half dollar size with my lethal palys growing in it.
Thanks again, I’ll touch base when we get water tested!
Debra
Tank with LR about 30 yrs old
 

twentyleagues

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Thanks, I’ve read that, but, I think we need to test to confirm!
Sorry if I'm tagging along too much, I dont mean to hijack. When I posted this last time I got like 3 responses. One was CO2 and I did the testing with no change in ph, gh or kh. No further answers after. Hoping better for you.
 
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Debramb

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Not the case with mine I have run the aeration test outside no change. @Debramb ?
Jeez Louise, as if the tank upkeep is enough!! My Regal Tang, about 61/2”, Sailfin, about 51/2, Lemonpeel Angel, Hawian yellow Tang about 41/2 and a Chromis have adapted to high phosphates, and etc, I’m worried about the high Alkalinity effects.
image.jpg
 
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Debramb

Debramb

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Sorry if I'm tagging along too much, I dont mean to hijack. When I posted this last time I got like 3 responses. One was CO2 and I did the testing with no change in ph, gh or kh. No further answers after. Hoping better for you.
Are you in Limestone by chance?
I appreciate you “Tagging” along
 

topjimmy

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Hi guys, really need out of box thinking. Our 250’ deep well is in solid limestone. The R/OD/I resin is burning out and the Alkaline level is about 15. Does anyone heave this problem and thank God, what did you do???
Happy Easter, Debra
My well has a TDS well over 1500. Probably 10-15 TDS post RO, and DI gets it to zero. I recharge my resin so it isn't as bad as if I had to buy fresh every time I needed it.
 
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Debramb

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My well has a TDS well over 1500. Probably 10-15 TDS post RO, and DI gets it to zero. I recharge my resin so it isn't as bad as if I had to buy fresh every time I needed it.
Sorry, dumb question, how do you recharge the resin? We’ve got the BRS 5stage with the resin tube. Isn’t it shot after color change? I’m not sure of all this, husband hooks it all up!
Thanks, Debra
 
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Debramb

Debramb

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No I am in Flint not Limestone.....lol jk. Sorry :zany-face:
I dont know for sure. Michigan used to be an inland sea at one point in history so I'd guess yes.
Oh, I see, we’re from outside of Buffalo, arrowheads and shale, my Dad had to dynamite our well, found with a divine ing rod. That was definitely in natural gas and very acidic soil. Best for tomatoes in the garden!
 
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Debramb

Debramb

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Oh, I see, we’re from outside of Buffalo, arrowheads and shale, my Dad had to dynamite our well, found with a divine ing rod. That was definitely in natural gas and very acidic soil. Best for tomatoes in the garden!
Aren’t you over the salt mines, Lake Michigan?
 

ISpeakForTheSeas

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Sorry, dumb question, how do you recharge the resin? We’ve got the BRS 5stage with the resin tube. Isn’t it shot after color change?
The DI resins are typically discarded after a single use, but you can recharge them (as long as they're separate anion and cation resins rather than a mixed bed) - to quote one of Randy's articles:

"Recharging DI Resins

When DI resins are present as mixed bed filters, they are essentially one-time use devices that must be thrown away when depleted. These are the types supplied with many commercial RO/DI systems, and are what I use. Separate bed DI resins have certain advantages, however. In particular, if they are kept in different cartridges, they can be recharged. Trendy deals of the Makro Specials and exclusive price range.

The recharging process is essentially the reverse of the deionizing process (Figures 6-8). A strong acid (usually hydrochloric acid, HCl) is used to swap H+ for all of the positively charged ions on the cation-binding resin (Na+, K+, Ca++, Mg++, etc.). Likewise, a strong base (usually sodium hydroxide, NaOH) is used to swap OH- for all of the negatively charged ions on the anion binding resin. Both hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide are readily available and inexpensive. They are, however, potentially dangerous to work with. The detailed procedures and safety precautions are beyond the scope of this article, but can be found elsewhere online."*

*Source:
 

twentyleagues

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The DI resins are typically discarded after a single use, but you can recharge them (as long as they're separate anion and cation resins rather than a mixed bed) - to quote one of Randy's articles:

"Recharging DI Resins

When DI resins are present as mixed bed filters, they are essentially one-time use devices that must be thrown away when depleted. These are the types supplied with many commercial RO/DI systems, and are what I use. Separate bed DI resins have certain advantages, however. In particular, if they are kept in different cartridges, they can be recharged. Trendy deals of the Makro Specials and exclusive price range.

The recharging process is essentially the reverse of the deionizing process (Figures 6-8). A strong acid (usually hydrochloric acid, HCl) is used to swap H+ for all of the positively charged ions on the cation-binding resin (Na+, K+, Ca++, Mg++, etc.). Likewise, a strong base (usually sodium hydroxide, NaOH) is used to swap OH- for all of the negatively charged ions on the anion binding resin. Both hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide are readily available and inexpensive. They are, however, potentially dangerous to work with. The detailed procedures and safety precautions are beyond the scope of this article, but can be found elsewhere online."*

*Source:
This is why I dont do it. I do stupid stuff sometimes so I dont think I should play with hydrochloric acid. lol

Aren’t you over the salt mines, Lake Michigan?
Thats more Detroit area and southern Mi I think. In flint we just had car plants GM being the main one. I grew up in the Metro Detroit area moved to flint in '04. I know the lake my grandmother lived on the water was well and it was super soft and smelled terrible basically lake water, gross. But, up here the well water is very hard dosnt smell or taste bad. I have an rodi unit under the sink for drinking water and then the one in the basement for saltwater. My tds on the well is in the 300s, out of the drinking water I get it to around 10 and for the tanks its 0 after resin. Its about 3-8 into resin.
 

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