What’s going on with my parameters?

[Salamander-Hime]

Hi everyone, my parameters have been… strange… to say the least. I used Fritz turbo start and stability/prime to start the cycling. I never had an ammonia spike so I added fish around 2 weeks… after adding fish there was ammonia in the tank at about .3. My fish caught ich and are in a QT tank now but the parameters in my DT are still strange. About a week ago I checked with the API test I had at the time and my nitrates and nitrites were off the chart >5 and >160, I did a 50% water change and they were still measuring as >5 and >160.

Yesterday I did a 75% water change and now the parameters are:
Ph-8.2
Ammonia- 0.2
Nitrite- >1 (Red Sea test) >5 (API test)
Nitrates- 4
Phosphate- 0

just wondering if this is normal or what’s going on with my cycling in general. Thanks!

 

[ShepherdReefer]

So, this is a new tank you are referring to, it only cycled for two weeks, and you added fish; is that correct? I think that is too soon. ammonia and nitrites are not good for fish. What are you reading with nitrite, ppm, or ppb?

 

[Salamander-Hime]

So, this is a new tank you are referring to, it only cycled for two weeks, and you added fish; is that correct? I think that is too soon. ammonia and nitrites are not good for fish. What are you reading with nitrite, ppm, or ppb?

Fish are in a QT right now so thankfully not in the DT and not planning on putting them back until the fallow period for ich is over and the tank parameters stabilize. In hindsight I did put fish too soon, but my old LFS said it was safe and I trusted them at the time. Also reading in ppm.

 

[dedragon]

you dont really need to test for nitrite anymore because it has cycled. I would also recommend not using the api test kits at all as they are pretty unreliable (red sea tests are good as are salifert or hanna). After the fallow period you should be good to go ahead and add fish.
How many fish are there and what size tank is this?

 

[Salamander-Hime]

you dont really need to test for nitrite anymore because it has cycled. I would also recommend not using the api test kits at all as they are pretty unreliable (red sea tests are good as are salifert or hanna). After the fallow period you should be good to go ahead and add fish.
How many fish are there and what size tank is this?

It’s the Fluval Evo 13.5 and there’s 3 fish (2 clowns, 1 fire fish) and yes I will be using the Red Sea tests from now on

 

[Andreas' Reef]

Hi everyone, my parameters have been… strange… to say the least. I used Fritz turbo start and stability/prime to start the cycling. I never had an ammonia spike so I added fish around 2 weeks… after adding fish there was ammonia in the tank at about .3. My fish caught ich and are in a QT tank now but the parameters in my DT are still strange. About a week ago I checked with the API test I had at the time and my nitrates and nitrites were off the chart >5 and >160, I did a 50% water change and they were still measuring as >5 and >160.

Yesterday I did a 75% water change and now the parameters are:
Ph-8.2
Ammonia- 0.2
Nitrite- >1 (Red Sea test) >5 (API test)
Nitrates- 4
Phosphate- 0

just wondering if this is normal or what’s going on with my cycling in general. Thanks!

Your cycle may have been unfinished or your nutrient sources may lie somewhere other than the water column. For example, there could be dead algae in the back chamber, or detritus staying in the rock, or it could be inside the algae.

 

[Salamander-Hime]

Your cycle may have been unfinished or your nutrient sources may lie somewhere other than the water column. For example, there could be dead algae in the back chamber, or detritus staying in the rock, or it could be inside the algae.

Okay thank you! What should I do from here on out in order to get them to stabilize?

 

[Andreas' Reef]

Okay thank you! What should I do from here on out in order to get them to stabilize?

I would avoid doing huge water changes like 75%, And do 25% or less. water changes in certain intervals over the week. It will give your bacteria time to fortify itself for the next water change so there isn't much loss.

 

[Salamander-Hime]

I would avoid doing huge water changes like 75%, And do 25% or less. water changes in certain intervals over the week. It will give your bacteria time to fortify itself for the next water change so there isn't much loss.

Okay will do, thank you so much

 

[dedragon]

It’s the Fluval Evo 13.5 and there’s 3 fish (2 clowns, 1 fire fish) and yes I will be using the Red Sea tests from now on

Go slow with adding the fish. I would usually add one at a time but clowns can be aggressive after being separated. The reason the ammonia spiked was because this tank is tiny and those 3 fish would be the max amount of fish this tank can handle biologically.
To help with biological stability and bacteria being able to keep up I would look to add live rock from a very trusted reefer before the fallow period (Not a LFS unless you are close to really good ones like WWC or TCK). If you cant find anyone you can trust I would add PNS Probio (Probio can be added at anytime as it is pest free). Ive had good results with it during a tank transfer and getting rid of dinos and cyano.
Good luck with the qt and fallow

 

[Salamander-Hime]

Go slow with adding the fish. I would usually add one at a time but clowns can be aggressive after being separated. The reason the ammonia spiked was because this tank is tiny and those 3 fish would be the max amount of fish this tank can handle biologically.
To help with biological stability and bacteria being able to keep up I would look to add live rock from a very trusted reefer before the fallow period (Not a LFS unless you are close to really good ones like WWC or TCK). If you cant find anyone you can trust I would add PNS Probio (Probio can be added at anytime as it is pest free). Ive had good results with it during a tank transfer and getting rid of dinos and cyano.
Good luck with the qt and fallow

Oh sorry I wasn’t clear I added the fish slowly and separately, not all at once. Thank you for the advice about the live rock and Probio

 

[Rmckoy]

So, this is a new tank you are referring to, it only cycled for two weeks, and you added fish; is that correct? I think that is too soon. ammonia and nitrites are not good for fish. What are you reading with nitrite, ppm, or ppb?

Nitrites are not toxic to saltwater fish but I do agree with the short time period which seams weird .

 

[Rmckoy]

Cycle question …. Let’s tag a few “professionals @brandon429 @sixty_reefer
That should be enough to entertain this thread for now

 

[Rmckoy]

@vetteguy53081

 

[Greg P]

You're going to need to cycle the tank again before you add the fish back, unless you ghost feed to keep the bacterial numbers up.
If you ghost feed between now and then, you'll need to perform WCs to keep the NO3 and PO4 in check, unless you add some corals to consume the excess nutrients. This can be tricky though as you'll most likely go through some nasty cycles which most corals don't survive.
It's up to you which way to go. Personally for a newish Reefer, I'd suggest to do a re-cycle when the time comes.

When you add the fish back, I'd start with the firefish so there's less chance the clowns kick the crap out of it.
And I'd suggest 2 weeks before adding the clowns together as a pair, OR, add the smallest of the 2 and wait again for 2 weeks.

Of course testing the params before adding the next fish is required

 

[Salamander-Hime]

You're going to need to cycle the tank again before you add the fish back, unless you ghost feed to keep the bacterial numbers up.
If you ghost feed between now and then, you'll need to perform WCs to keep the NO3 and PO4 in check, unless you add some corals to consume the excess nutrients. This can be tricky though as you'll most likely go through some nasty cycles which most corals don't survive.
It's up to you which way to go. Personally for a newish Reefer, I'd suggest to do a re-cycle when the time comes.

When you add the fish back, I'd start with the firefish so there's less chance the clowns kick the crap out of it.
And I'd suggest 2 weeks before adding the clowns together as a pair, OR, add the smallest of the 2 and wait again for 2 weeks.

Of course testing the params before adding the next fish is required

I actually have quite a few corals in the tank I’ve still been feeding so hopefully that will help keep everything in check. Also thank you for the advice, I think I will add the firefish back first and then wait to put the clowns in as a pair. What should I be doing in the meantime to get my water normal so when the time comes it’s ready for fish?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi everyone, my parameters have been… strange… to say the least. I used Fritz turbo start and stability/prime to start the cycling. I never had an ammonia spike so I added fish around 2 weeks… after adding fish there was ammonia in the tank at about .3. My fish caught ich and are in a QT tank now but the parameters in my DT are still strange. About a week ago I checked with the API test I had at the time and my nitrates and nitrites were off the chart >5 and >160, I did a 50% water change and they were still measuring as >5 and >160.

Yesterday I did a 75% water change and now the parameters are:
Ph-8.2
Ammonia- 0.2
Nitrite- >1 (Red Sea test) >5 (API test)
Nitrates- 4
Phosphate- 0

just wondering if this is normal or what’s going on with my cycling in general. Thanks!

the unfortunate and the unfortunate
First unfortunate is the test kit. While some have luck with API kit- Many have been let down by it due to false readings and misled that tank is doing well. I cant trust a $25 kit with this reputation to sustain my fish and coral which are worth good money. Hanna and salifert brand much more reliable.

Prime os a water conditioner and has no impact on cycling , however turboZyme very good product. The other unfortunate is that you were Likely noy cycled due to readings and speed of stocking tank.
A cycle is called a cycle when two significant actions occur. . . . when ammonia rises thn falls and achieves a steady reading of Zero for at least 5 days and when nitrate rises and falls and holds at 20 or below- you are cycled.
Did you add ammonia chloride or something to increase ammonia initially ?
Being that you are using API kits , I would suggest taking a water sample to a trusted LFS and see what numbers they come up with and to compare with yours then you will know where your readings are at.
A typical cycle period is 14-21 days and you want to stock very slowly to allow denitrifying bacteria to keep up with new bioload as tank matures
Adding 1.5ml per ten gallons daily for next 2 weeks will assure bacteria is sufficient and supported.

 

[Salamander-Hime]

the unfortunate and the unfortunate
First unfortunate is the test kit. While some have luck with API kit- Many have been let down by it due to false readings and misled that tank is doing well. I cant trust a $25 kit with this reputation to sustain my fish and coral which are worth good money. Hanna and salifert brand much more reliable.

Prime os a water conditioner and has no impact on cycling , however turboZyme very good product. The other unfortunate is that you were Likely noy cycled due to readings and speed of stocking tank.
A cycle is called a cycle when two significant actions occur. . . . when ammonia rises thn falls and achieves a steady reading of Zero for at least 5 days and when nitrate rises and falls and holds at 20 or below- you are cycled.
Did you add ammonia chloride or something to increase ammonia initially ?
Being that you are using API kits , I would suggest taking a water sample to a trusted LFS and see what numbers they come up with and to compare with yours then you will know where your readings are at.
A typical cycle period is 14-21 days and you want to stock very slowly to allow denitrifying bacteria to keep up with new bioload as tank matures
Adding 1.5ml per ten gallons daily for next 2 weeks will assure bacteria is sufficient and supported.

Not using the API kit anymore, using Red Sea now. Also I did not add ammonia initially… should I have?

 

[Greg P]

Keep feeding the corals

What should I be doing in the meantime to get my water normal so when the time comes it’s ready for fish?

Keep feeding the corals and, when it's getting close to fish addition time, test the BIG 3 (NH3, NO2 and NO3)
If there is only a small amount of NO3, say around 5-10 you're good to add the first fish back.

 

[Salamander-Hime]

Keep feeding the corals

Keep feeding the corals and, when it's getting close to fish addition time, test the BIG 3 (NH3, NO2 and NO3)
If there is only a small amount of NO3, say around 5-10 you're good to add the first fish back.

Okay great, and in the mean time should I just keep doing weekly 30% water changes?