I wish hypo was more effective against Amyloodinium, I still need to use copper to manage that issue....I wish I did hypo in QT…
Jay
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I wish hypo was more effective against Amyloodinium, I still need to use copper to manage that issue....I wish I did hypo in QT…
@Jay Hemdal
My black mollie always had white discoloration on some parts of its body. Now I’m seeing a weird white growth. What could this be?
The black mollie gets bullied by my clownfish and my Lamarck angel.
Thank you Jay.The good and bad thing about mollies is that they show EVERYTHING in contrast to their black bodies. That’s why they work as ich tell tales. However, that also means they show every little scrape and bump.
I see what looks like some caudal fin damage and then the spot on its side.
Mollies are just not very adept at out swimming bullies or fighting back…..coral reef fish are much more adapted to this - especially more territorial fish like clowns (not really genicanthus though)
Jay
Well, I think we can rule out velvet here, the symptoms of that start with rapid breathing, and the spots develop later on and are much smaller.I did notice the blue tang asserting dominance over the powder blue tang today. And the moorish idol is also displaying territorial swiping at the blue tang. I just saw it right now with my own eyes as I’m typing this.
I am not seeing any physical contact between the fish. They are swiping the water between themselves, but it’s hard to say if they make contact while I’m not looking.
My main concern is diagnosing if those spots look like ich/velvet.
I ordered a UV sterilizer to kill the bacteria in water column to keep my tank more sanitary.
Cool! The foxface’s eyes look much better than before, but they are still too dark to see the details in. I agree with your assessment because most of the foxfaces online have the same look.Glad to hear stuff is looking better!
One thing i have learned about foxfaces, from this very same type of thing, is that their eyes react to bright/UV light. If you have lots of UV on your tank they will fog up and look kind of greenish. Like built in sunglasses.
Since you are catching it early, that stands a better chance of working. What dose are you planning to use on the H2O2? Remember that peroxide is decomposed by organic material, but then that material is "consumed" leaving less for the peroxide to work on. At a tipping point, the unreacted peroxide levels can climb, harming invertebrates and fish.@Jay Hemdal
I have ich in my tank. My yellow tang had 2 ich spots (one on each side) and the disappeared today. My powder blue tang appeared with a moderate amount of ich today and it was clear yesterday.
My solution is to implement my UV sterilizer with H202 in tank dosing.
Since you are catching it early, that stands a better chance of working. What dose are you planning to use on the H2O2? Remember that peroxide is decomposed by organic material, but then that material is "consumed" leaving less for the peroxide to work on. At a tipping point, the unreacted peroxide levels can climb, harming invertebrates and fish.
I use low range peroxide test strips to guard against that issue. However, I just checked online and Amazon doesn't stock them anymore (Waterworks 0-5 ppm) All they have is 0-25ppm, and that may be too high of a range, I have not used that range:
Jay
Sorry - your copper treatment with the Hanna test should be spot on.@Jay Hemdal
Im bringing this thread back alive. Here’s the update to catch you up:
I had ich in my tank after doing the copper/fallow so I removed all my corals and added copper into my DT.
I’m maintaining my copper around 2.35ppm-2.50ppm. It never gets higher nor lower than this range. I am dosing copper power and testing with Hannah copper HR.
Today is 8 days in my treatment. The fish looked pretty much 100% a few days ago.
2 days ago I had a bunch of bleached dry rocks (1:10) bleach for 3 days. I took a heater from my fish QT tank that was left to dry for 12 hours. I put the heater in the bucket with rocks and RODI water because I initially wanted to cycle the rocks separately, but decided on just adding the rocks into the tank.
Today I see a little tiny spot on my blue tang. I see a bigger spot on my black mollie, and I see a medium spot on my powder blue as well as some cuts? Looks like the powder blue is getting mildly swiped?
So…Did I introduce ich from my infected QT by letting the rocks sit with a heater for 20 minutes? Or is my ich strain resistant to copper?
All my shrimps are alive in my DT with copper. I’m so confused. I really don't know. Is it possible my ich is resistant? Or maybe my test kit is somehow faulty and copper is below therapeutic? I don’t see how it’s possible for ich to reinfect my fish if copper was therapeutic for 8 days. Even if I were to add an ich heater…my rocks were in full RODI water with some bleach remaining before I detoxified it with prime.
I don’t know what to do at this point.