What is truly needed?

[KyleyBob]

I’m brand new to the hobby. I posted about a week ago introducing myself and stating that I was starting a 40 gallon breeder build with a 40 gallon breeder sump system.
To the many who didn’t see that post, I’m a paraplegic so I had to rig it up in a way that I could reach everything. Which is why I’m doing a side by side with the sump being shorter.

So far I have built the stands (they each need support beams in all the corners.) I’ve purchased both aquariums. I had the local glass shop cut out some glass so I could make the sump and I have the silicone. I’m just waiting to get a skimmer before I make it. I have a return pump as well.

Waiting to be purchased on amazon I have an AI Prime 16 light along with the flex stand. (I figured I would start with one, and by the time the tank is actually ready for fish I can get the second.) I have a bubble magus curve 5 skimmer. I wanted to buy test kits individually but I’m trying to save as much as I can so I have the Salifert master reef combo. I have two 100 jager heaters. I figured with the way the sump will be designed I can place one in the bubble trap and one in the refugium so the return pump area is getting it from both sides. I have the Aquaneat 3 pack thermometers. One can go by the return pump and one on each side of the main tank. And lastly I have the Ade advanced optics dual scale refractometer. I’ve not looked for a filter sock yet but it’s on the to do list.

After purchasing the previous items and installing the plumbing, what else do I need before putting water and live rock in the tank? I’ve seen a lot of very elaborate set ups, but I’m not trying to eat ramen noodles every night. What do I NEED to run a successful system?

 

[BeardedDragon21]

If your willing to do all your own testing each day, it sounds like your ready to go! everything I can think of adding like, an auto top off, pH monitor, or various reactors, are more just to make it easier for you so they can easily be added post build. My only real recommendation would be to plan for potential expansion with your plumbing to allow for in line additions like uv sterilizers ect.

 

[Montiman]

I did not see any circulation pump. Flow pumps are a must for corals. Fish will not need them.

 

[Pico bam]

Seems like you have most everything. Circulation pumps are going to be needed. Id recommend a refugium there beneficial for nitrates phosphates and keeping algea out of your display. Witch has stumped and removed alot of people from the hobbie... simple algea. I hear good things about tropic marin salt and I use there all for reef supplement for nutrients in my tank. When I'm out of reef crystals thats what I'm going to switch to. You could look into bulk reef supply on YouTube. You'll likely find an answer for any question you have. Otherwise there's alot of us here on the site to help! If you have any questions don't hesitate to pm me, good luck!

 

[KyleyBob]

If your willing to do all your own testing each day, it sounds like your ready to go! everything I can think of adding like, an auto top off, pH monitor, or various reactors, are more just to make it easier for you so they can easily be added post build. My only real recommendation would be to plan for potential expansion with your plumbing to allow for in line additions like uv sterilizers ect.

Can you explain what most of that stuff is and how they work?

 

[KyleyBob]

I did not see any circulation pump. Flow pumps are a must for corals. Fish will not need them.

Seems like you have most everything. Circulation pumps are going to be needed. Id recommend a refugium there beneficial for nitrates phosphates and keeping algea out of your display. Witch has stumped and removed alot of people from the hobbie... simple algea. I hear good things about tropic marin salt and I use there all for reef supplement for nutrients in my tank. When I'm out of reef crystals thats what I'm going to switch to. You could look into bulk reef supply on YouTube. You'll likely find an answer for any question you have. Otherwise there's alot of us here on the site to help! If you have any questions don't hesitate to pm me, good luck!

I forgot about circulation pumps, but they are on the list, just lower down because I won’t need them for a while.

 

[dvgyfresh]

Not needed but helpful is algae magnet cleaner so you can clean glass easily , I waited a long time to buy mine and the algae became too strong so I had to razor blade all the glass it’s not fun lol but get auto top off unless you want to put a lot of water in daily

 

[Pico bam]

Ro-di unit is a necessity aswell

 

[ApoIsland]

The answer to what is necessary really depends on a variety of factors.

1- what corals do you want to grow?

2- what fish do you want to keep?

3-will you be doing water changes or not?

4- if yes to 3 how clean is your source water?

All other things being equal, if the answer is that you want to move fairly rapidly to keep acros and more delicate corals then you will likely need more equip and dosing.

If the answer is that you are ok starting with softies, lps, and some very easy sps then you need almost nothing.

If you have not opened the testing equip or the skimmer I would return that stuff. You definitely don't need it at the start and may never need it. myself and quite a few others run successful long term mixed reef tanks without either one.

The best way to figure out if you need an rodi unit is to contact some local reef clubs and ask the guys with decent reefs what they use for source water. A few of us are lucky enough to avoid that cost as well.

Prior to moving everything to the current 120g with sump I ran a 55g packed to the brim with mixed reef corals for a couple years on nothing but 2 cheap black box leds and 1 tunze 6045 power head pointed at the surface. No skimmer, no testing, no dosing. Just weekly water changes.

Still run the current 120g the same minimalistic way.

 

[WVNed]

What is truly needed depends on what you want to keep. You don't have to get it all at once though.

 

[KyleyBob]

The answer to what is necessary really depends on a variety of factors.

1- what corals do you want to grow?

2- what fish do you want to keep?

3-will you be doing water changes or not?

4- if yes to 3 how clean is your source water?

All other things being equal, if the answer is that you want to move fairly rapidly to keep acros and more delicate corals then you will likely need more equip and dosing.

If the answer is that you are ok starting with softies, lps, and some very easy sps then you need almost nothing.

If you have not opened the testing equip or the skimmer I would return that stuff. You definitely don't need it at the start and may never need it. myself and quite a few others run successful long term mixed reef tanks without either one.

The best way to figure out if you need an rodi unit is to contact some local reef clubs and ask the guys with decent reefs what they use for source water. A few of us are lucky enough to avoid that cost as well.

Prior to moving everything to the current 120g with sump I ran a 55g packed to the brim with mixed reef corals for a couple years on nothing but 2 cheap black box leds and 1 tunze 6045 power head pointed at the surface. No skimmer, no testing, no dosing. Just weekly water changes.

Still run the current 120g the same minimalistic way.

1. I would like to have a mixed reef with a little bit of everything. However, I’m brand new and have no clue what I’m doing, so it’s probably a good idea to start out with beginner level stuff. So that’s what I’ll be doing for now.
2. I know for sure I want a couple clown fish. Other than that it will be the typical smaller tank verity, also everything will be beginner or “easy” care, at least according to most sites. An example of what I might end up stocking with would be Clown fish, Royal Gramma, firefish, watchmen goby, chalk bass.
3. I don’t really know anything about dosing. The system setups I’ve seen that do that look very intimidating so I’ll be starting out doing water changes.
4. I think some of the shops around me (Kansas City) sell the water. I had planned on buying it until I got a RODI filter.

How do you avoid testing? I was under the impression that was important.
Also, how do I locate the local reef club?

 

[Mical]

What have you considered for lighting? You might want to binge watch a bunch of BRS videos -> https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/content/post/top-10-beginner-tips

 

[KyleyBob]

What have you considered for lighting? You might want to binge watch a bunch of BRS videos -> https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/content/post/top-10-beginner-tips

AI prime 16.
Lol, that’s actually what made me decide on that light. They spoke very highly of it.

 

[ApoIsland]

1. I would like to have a mixed reef with a little bit of everything. However, I’m brand new and have no clue what I’m doing, so it’s probably a good idea to start out with beginner level stuff. So that’s what I’ll be doing for now.
2. I know for sure I want a couple clown fish. Other than that it will be the typical smaller tank verity, also everything will be beginner or “easy” care, at least according to most sites. An example of what I might end up stocking with would be Clown fish, Royal Gramma, firefish, watchmen goby, chalk bass.
3. I don’t really know anything about dosing. The system setups I’ve seen that do that look very intimidating so I’ll be starting out doing water changes.
4. I think some of the shops around me (Kansas City) sell the water. I had planned on buying it until I got a RODI filter.

How do you avoid testing? I was under the impression that was important.
Also, how do I locate the local reef club?

I like the fish list. Sounds like you can definitely get away with minimal equipment at least to start and then decide if you really need it.

If things are healthy and you are not dosing then there really is no need for testing while the tank is running. Most of the easy beginner corals can thrive in a wide range of calc, alk, mag, ph, nitrate, and phosphate levels.
If you are having problems keeping coral alive then go ahead and get a test kit.

People run an ammonia test when starting a tank but you can skip that also if done properly. most of those test kits are crap anyway. You can cycle 40lbs of rock in a couple 5g buckets easily in a few days with bottle bac as long as you have a couple power heads which you will want to get anyway.

I would also make sure to buy a piece or two of real live from the ocean live rock. They don't have to be big. Maybe a couple pieces the size of your palm. You want those different bacteria strains though. That will be the best $ you can spend in this hobby.

 

[KyleyBob]

I like the fish list. Sounds like you can definitely get away with minimal equipment at least to start and then decide if you really need it.

If things are healthy and you are not dosing then there really is no need for testing while the tank is running. Most of the easy beginner corals can thrive in a wide range of calc, alk, mag, ph, nitrate, and phosphate levels.
If you are having problems keeping coral alive then go ahead and get a test kit.

People run an ammonia test when starting a tank but you can skip that also if done properly. most of those test kits are crap anyway. You can cycle 40lbs of rock in a couple 5g buckets easily in a few days with bottle bac as long as you have a couple power heads which you will want to get anyway.

I would also make sure to buy a piece or two of real live from the ocean live rock. They don't have to be big. Maybe a couple pieces the size of your palm. You want those different bacteria strains though. That will be the best $ you can spend in this hobby.

Thank you for the advise.
Do you have any suggestions on quality power heads that are still budget friendly?
I’m not sure I’ve figured out the difference between live rock and real live rock. Would you recommend putting the real live rock in the refugium?

 

[littlefishy]

If you really want to go minimalist and are willing to stock for it, this reefer runs a tank with just rock and flow.

Build Thread - WV Reefer’s 75 Gallon Big and Dirty

Nice looking tank ;)

www.reef2reef.com

 

[ApoIsland]

Thank you for the advise.
Do you have any suggestions on quality power heads that are still budget friendly?
I’m not sure I’ve figured out the difference between live rock and real live rock. Would you recommend putting the real live rock in the refugium?

as far as power heads go I have experience with two brands:

1) Tunze (great powerhead). For the last 8 years I have run two of the 6045 in my 120g display and one 6025 in the 40g sump (which is basically a 2nd display as it is loaded with live rock, coral, and 3 problem fish).

2) Hydor - absolute garbage. Both failed within 3 years.

Real from the ocean live rock is just as it sounds. Rock that has been sitting in the ocean until it was shipped to the seller. Not sure where you can get the good stuff these days as most of it is illegal now I believe. Back when I first started it seemed you could get Fiji live rock at most fish stores. Someone else will have to advise on that.

As far as your question about putting it in the sump that would be fine. I did that with my tank to avoid any nasty crabs or other unwanted hitch hikers. The bacteria can populate the rock in the display from down in the sump over time. How fast that happens relative to putting it directly next to a piece of previously dry rock in the display is another question I can't answer. I would imagine someone here can though.

 

[ApoIsland]

If you really want to go minimalist and are willing to stock for it, this reefer runs a tank with just rock and flow.

Build Thread - WV Reefer’s 75 Gallon Big and Dirty

Nice looking tank ;)

www.reef2reef.com

This is such a great link. Thank you for posting. Always nice to see I am not the only one who ran a tank this way.

 

[SchrutesReefs]

For power heads:

Jebao-$ cheap. Lower end reliability (although I ran one for a couple years with zero issues).

Hydor $-$$ not too cheap, but seems like a love/hate

Tunze- $$ loved around the globe, extreme reliabilty.

AI Nero 3/5-$$$ seem better now, mixed results after release. App control ability, seems very user friendly.

Eco Tech MP10/40-$$$$ you get what you pay for with this one, which is an outstanding power head that should last you for a long time with good maintenance.

Even on a budget build, don’t skimp on flow. Way too much invested in corals to have them whither away because appropriate flow wasn’t applied. I believe this is why so many invest in the EcoTech. In hindsight an mp10 runs $299, which is less than the cost of a gorgeous torch frag. Just my .02

 

[KyleyBob]

For power heads:

Jebao-$ cheap. Lower end reliability (although I ran one for a couple years with zero issues).

Hydor $-$$ not too cheap, but seems like a love/hate

Tunze- $$ loved around the globe, extreme reliabilty.

AI Nero 3/5-$$$ seem better now, mixed results after release. App control ability, seems very user friendly.

Eco Tech MP10/40-$$$$ you get what you pay for with this one, which is an outstanding power head that should last you for a long time with good maintenance.

Even on a budget build, don’t skimp on flow. Way too much invested in corals to have them whither away because appropriate flow wasn’t applied. I believe this is why so many invest in the EcoTech. In hindsight an mp10 runs $299, which is less than the cost of a gorgeous torch frag. Just my .02

Thanks! How many/what size would you recommend for a 40 breeder? What locations in the tank give you the best results?