What probe do you trust more?

I heat my water with a ranco temp controller when mixing since i always mix right before a water change. its easy enough to make sure my water is at temp when checking salinity. If i didnt temper the watee that calculator would come in clutch. I use the same site for the dosing calculator. Comes in clutch.

I do the same, but once in a while I forget and it goes above by some degrees and at 10% in a 340 system it’s nothing to worry about aside from salinity to be near DT salinity numbers.
 
I do the same, but once in a while I forget and it goes above by some degrees and at 10% in a 340 system it’s nothing to worry about aside from salinity to be near DT salinity numbers.
Too many clutches in my last reply 😆

Im at probably 15g total water volume so matters a bit more doing 33% water change.
 
@Reef Jedi btw, I use a graduated cylinder to test. This one from amazon:

Graduated cylinder

I don't like testing in the tank, too much flow and bouncing around, and I don't want to turn all flow off to test.
Thank you for sharing that. I think I’ll go this route overall to check as a better standard to the other ones I have. Do you end up pouring your sample water back in or discard it?

Also, do you think I am going down too far of a rabbit hole with the discrepancies listed above? The reason I ask is for the inhabitants. Just because I can see numbers on a screen, can corals or fish even tell the difference with this close of numbers to 35ppm?
 
Too many clutches in my last reply 😆

Im at probably 15g total water volume so matters a bit more doing 33% water change.
Never enough clutches!

But maybe your cowbell needs more cowbell
 
Thank you for sharing that. I think I’ll go this route overall to check as a better standard to the other ones I have. Do you end up pouring your sample water back in or discard it?

Also, do you think I am going down too far of a rabbit hole with the discrepancies listed above? The reason I ask is for the inhabitants. Just because I can see numbers on a screen, can corals or fish even tell the difference with this close of numbers to 35ppm?


Once I get the reading I dump the water back in the tank I’m testing. No reason the waste it. I also rodi the graduated cylinder after every use. I have 4 spray bottles with Rodi on hand at all times for cleaning any thing salt related.
 
Saltwater in nature isn't a static number, but often is reported as such.

All of the values reported from the three test methods should not provide uninhabitable water for our reef critters and fishes.

If you use either of the three tests, just make sure replacement water matches the aquarium when you do a water change. An auto top off to replace evaporation with RODI is the best defense against wobbling tank salinity, (as long as it doesn't fail.)
 
A plastic swing-arm hydrometer is fully sufficient for most everything – accuracy included.

Refractometers are a great backup and will be more accurate and precise. (Calibrate your swing-arm hydrometer with it!)

There are lots of other good options as folks have mentioned....there's something for everyone and every occasion! ;)
 
Thank you for sharing that. I think I’ll go this route overall to check as a better standard to the other ones I have. Do you end up pouring your sample water back in or discard it?

Also, do you think I am going down too far of a rabbit hole with the discrepancies listed above? The reason I ask is for the inhabitants. Just because I can see numbers on a screen, can corals or fish even tell the difference with this close of numbers to 35ppm?
This hobby is easy to go down rabbit holes :)

That said, instead of answering the question you asked I will say this: the TM Hydrometer will give you peace of mind, and you'll no longer have to wonder about your question.

The sample water goes right back in the display.
 
so.... no one uses the salt probes for any system?
I think salt probes are used. However, after reading some of the responses. I believe they are used as a secondary measuring tool and not a primary. I’ve had issues with my apex salinity probe in the past and it would always read 2 points higher than what it was suppose to be. It was consistently at 37ppm instead of 35. So I felt like I couldn’t trust it. I tried calibrating it a couple times and got the same readings. Then I replaced it and have had better luck with this one that’s been in for about 3 months. Either way I think im potentially over thinking the small numbers here. Either way I’m still down that rabbit hole
 
This hobby is easy to go down rabbit holes :)

That said, instead of answering the question you asked I will say this: the TM Hydrometer will give you peace of mind, and you'll no longer have to wonder about your question.

The sample water goes right back in the display.
Thanks @BryanM for the good info and help. I think I’ll order one and use that as the baseline standard moving forward.

One last stupid question. Since these are sealed units and pre “calibrated”. Being at high altitude in the world, is there any compensation for readings? I’m still down the rabbit hole and more of a curious question. I’m guessing it doesn’t matter but pressures are different here in Colorado than let’s say at sea level. Like how water takes longer to boil here than when I’m in Florida kinda thing?
 
Thanks @BryanM for the good info and help. I think I’ll order one and use that as the baseline standard moving forward.

One last stupid question. Since these are sealed units and pre “calibrated”. Being at high altitude in the world, is there any compensation for readings? I’m still down the rabbit hole and more of a curious question. I’m guessing it doesn’t matter but pressures are different here in Colorado than let’s say at sea level. Like how water takes longer to boil here than when I’m in Florida kinda thing?
I am not remotely an expert, but via gemini, attributed to top shelf aquatics:

Floating (Density-Dependent): A hydrometer relies purely on buoyancy (Archimedes’ Principle). It floats based on the density of the liquid compared to the mass and volume of the sealed glass unit.

Basically the entire answer says its a non issue.

When I asked it to verify wether or not its statement was accurate, i threw back a ton of math and principles, and finally said yes, the statement is true.

So while tons of people here hate AI, I do not, but I do try to make sure it is valid the best I can.
 
Sounds like I need to invest in one and use that as a baseline.
I have Apex salinity probe, 2 PinPoint salinity monitors, no name refractomter and the TM precision hydrometer. I go by the TM hydrometer and then try to calibrate the others of the TM reading. I find the Pinpoint monitors need constant calibration, and my Apex fluctuates a +/- 1.0.

I am very interested in RedSea's new probes. Time will tell with those, but I really like the flexibility of being able to take the probe off the controller, hook it up to phone and check other tanks/ mixing stations
 
so.... no one uses the salt probes for any system?
I use the Apex but mainly as a quick reference. If it's reading something out of the ordinary then I will verify with the hydrometer. But I always use hydrometer to check display and new salt water to make sure they match up when doing water change.
 
so.... no one uses the salt probes for any system?
I use conductivity for salinity and have done so for more than 30 years. That is the method used by chemical oceanographers.
 

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