What size return pump for 75-gallons?

[AydenLincoln]

Do the reactors have their own pumps or do they need to be plumbed in?

What kind of reactors ?

I will find this out as he builds it and I am giving more info. I definitely will wait to buy the return pump before I know for sure. But I am planning this out so by the time I get the sump I will have everything. They are two media reactors for carbon and GFO etc. and I believe he said they are plumbed together and run on one pump separate from the return.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Sort of secondary things to consider.

I do not agree in the slightest.
Most overflows, drilled or HOB will have a tremendous range of stable flow rates.

Rules of thumb like 3x or 10x or 20x are silly. What is the goal? Mechanical filtration, organic filtration, system volume, cryptic filtration, etc. Is the sump a single flow zoned or multiple flow zoned?

What is the noise tolerance for water flow in the return, overflow or flowing through the sump?

Return should be compatible with the overflow primarily.

Nobody said that they shouldn't be. But AC pumps should be sized to run at their design BEP for the desired flow. This is for operation economics, not so much pump life. AC pumps don't typically die. Seals go bad and kill them, but they motors (on quality pumps) never die.

DC pumps (while they do have a BEP) are better sized to run at a fraction of their rated output, as the cooler the electronics package runs (lets ignore undervoltaged capacitors going bad) the longer it will last. DC pump motors don't die either, their inverter packages or power supply components typically do and most of the pumps sold to this hobby are (like it or no) electronics garbage.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Correct! My tank can’t be drilled because it’s tempered glass and filled/set up already and has been. The sump will be 23x17. I will have two reactors, a skimmer, and return pump as well as the heater and ATO. It’s a fowlr tank and currently I have two powerheads. I want to change to a gyre pump in the future. The HOB overflow does have an internal box. Here is a little chart.

As far as HOB overflows goes, the LifeReef is a quality and time tested design.

Your sump is on the smallish side, so high flow can quickly become high noise, as well as high velocity is likely going to carry bubbles through to the return pump.

Likewise, depending operating depth, a larger return pump may draw a vortex.

Other considerations. Every watt of power consumption of a submerged pump (let's not get pedantic about kinetic energy transferred to water or sound, or stored on coral growth, etc.) is a watt of heat into the aquarium.

So 75 gallons + a smallish volume sump means large pumps will cause a more than modest heat gain into the system. It sounds like an external pump is not a likely candidate, so efficient internal pumps are going to be your best bet.

I don't disagree with the other folks regarding recommending a DC pump. I have no experience with Jaebo and have read as much bad as good. I tested some of first DC aquarium before they hit retail market. Every pump that I was sent to test died eventually due to crap electronics. I keep pretty decent tabs on DC pumps and as somebody said above, most come from the same factory or 2 or 3 factories. However, there are some companies that do insist on better electronics packages.

Also (don't want to wade into this here) but "DC" pump is somewhat of a misnomer in this hobby. Some of these pumps are not DC at all, but have an inverter controller running an AC pump on a poor mans frequency drive. Others have the electronics package sealed inside of the pump (less desirable) than those who have the full electronics package built into the controller. When the former dies, the pump is dead, the later means a new controller. It may be moot given the cost for either, but on board electronics packed near the motor windings means more heat and usually a quicker death.

I have had extremely good luck with the ReefOctopus VarioS line of pumps, though I think the standard barrel type coaxial power connector to the control box is a travesty.

The ReefBuilders Nautilus pumps are also rated EXTREMELY well.

So flow: Pushing 900 GPH through that sump may be a bit much, depending on the factors mentioned above and I would assume you end up in the 350-500 gph range.

LifeReef is for the most part 'custom' in the sense that he can/will size your overflow tube(s) to the size return pump that you want to run.

If you want ~800-1000gph the VarioS 8 would be a decent candidate, as it would give you plenty of flow at about 1/3 to 1/2 power. The VarioS 6 would also work, but would likely run at close to full power.

If you want to aim for the 350-600gph then the VarioS 4 would also be ok, but would need to run at 80% power.

I would suggest 2x the VarioS 6 - go with no more than 500gph flow, and use the second pump for the reactor loop and in an emergency it can stand in for the return pump.

 

[Midrats]

I much prefer an AC pump for a return. In my experience they have been more reliable. It gives me peace of mind knowing some cheap electronics aren't going to fail on the heart of my system. I also appreciate having a simple plug sans a power supply and controller to add to all the other stuff already under the tank. I have no need to adjust the flow of the return. DC pumps are for skimmers and powerheads.

 

[VintageReefer]

Don’t think we need to over complicate things here and then get derailed. Manufacturer of the overflow is also making the sump and providing reactors as a package it seems. They already gave a recommended max flow for a return pump

Anything I provided will meet the goals and would be running at 50% or less of rated max power, which increases lifespan and reduces noise.

And I have had two mag7 pumps fail on me, internally seized up. I’ve switched to dc pumps and find they last much longer and when its time to replace, it’s half the cost, use less electricity, and are tunable. Win win win

 

[BeanAnimal]

I much prefer an AC pump for a return. In my experience they have been more reliable. It gives me peace of mind knowing some cheap electronics aren't going to fail on the heart of my system. I also appreciate having a simple plug sans a power supply and controller to add to all the other stuff already under the tank. I have no need to adjust the flow of the return. DC pumps are for skimmers and powerheads.

I mostly agree here in the context of external pumps. If you have no need to ramp flow up and down, then AC is by far more reliable. ReefFlo, PanWorld, Iwaki, etc. They run forever. Most internal AC pumps are a compromise in efficiency and heat and are "mag drive" types with their maintenance issues, swelling magnets, leaky windings, etc.

Internal - I think the advantage to DC is vastly oversizing and running at 50% or less output. They run cool and that mitigates a lot of the electronics failure. They are efficient and you are not pumping a ton of heat into the tank.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Don’t think we need to over complicate things here and then get derailed. Manufacturer of the overflow is also making the sump and providing reactors as a package it seems. They already gave a recommended max flow for a return pump. Anything I provided will meet the goals and would be running at 50% or less of rated max power, which increases lifespan and reduces noise.

Sure - from now on we can save the conversation and just seed to you as the authority.
Easier for me, I am out...

 

[VintageReefer]

I mostly agree here in the context of external pumps. If you have no need to ramp flow up and down, then AC is by far more reliable. ReefFlo, PanWorld, Iwaki, etc. They run forever. Most internal AC pumps are a compromise in efficiency and heat and are "mag drive" types with their maintenance issues.

Internal - I think the advantage to DC is vastly oversizing and running at 50% or less output. They run cool and that mitigates a lot of the electronics failure. They are efficient and you are not pumping a ton of heat into the tank.

I will agree with this and correct my statement. I advise agains magdrive brand pumps. There are other ac pumps that are extremely reliable. I reread what I said and realized I made a broad statement and that was unintended. My apologies!

I will say that I have been using dc pumps on my reefs since 2014 and I am converted and not going back. I like having feed modes, being able to see my wattage consumed in real time, and if my return chamber gets low and I don’t feel like doing a top off immediately, I can lower the pump speed by 5-10% and raise the water level in the return chamber temporarily to prevent the pump from running dry

I’ve had this one since 2017 and cleaned it 2…maybe 3 times and never have had an issue, running daily at 40-50%

 

[edd59]

eheim 1262 is a good quality pump for that tank. $200 bucks and will last forever.
i used one on a 120 for years.made in germany not this chinese junk

 

[Pistondog]

Correct! My tank can’t be drilled because it’s tempered glass and filled/set up already and has been. The sump will be 23x17. I will have two reactors, a skimmer, and return pump as well as the heater and ATO. It’s a fowlr tank and currently I have two powerheads. I want to change to a gyre pump in the future. The HOB overflow does have an internal box. Here is a little chart.

If that is the exact overflow you are using, it is difficult for me to imagine how it will drain over 300 gph.
What is the diameter of the siphon tube?
THis one from eshoppes is rated 300gph.

Redirect Notice

I ran dual siphons before drilling, a flood waiting to happen.
If running siphons, you do want to run them at or near capacity flow wise to purge any air bubbles.

 

[AydenLincoln]

I settled on a 900 GPH Jebao pump that I sent Jeff at LifeReef so as he builds my sump he can make sure it fits etc.

 

[AydenLincoln]

If that is the exact overflow you are using, it is difficult for me to imagine how it will drain over 300 gph.
What is the diameter of the siphon tube?
THis one from eshoppes is rated 300gph.

Redirect Notice

I ran dual siphons before drilling, a flood waiting to happen.
If running siphons, you do want to run them at or near capacity flow wise to purge any air bubbles.

It’s this! https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lifereef-overflow-box.1014530/#post-11887123